IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Ui  |2.8 

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^    Uo    12.0 


IIIIIM 
IIIIIM 


1.8 


iill|l.25  11.4   IIIIII.6 


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7 


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4W 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions 


Insti*-     Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


1980 


Technical  Notes  /  Notes  techniques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Physical 
features  of  this  copy  which  may  alter  any  of  the 
images  in  the  reproduction  are  checked  below. 


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Coloured  covers/ 
Couvertures  de  couleur 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu^es 

Tight  binding  (may  cause  shadows  or 
distortion  along  interior  margin)/ 
Reliure  serrd  (peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou 
de  la  distortion  le  long  de  la  marge 
int^rieure) 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Certains 
difauts  susceptibles  de  nuire  d  la  qualitd  de  la 
reproduction  sont  not6s  ci-dessous. 


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Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


Coloured  plates/ 
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Show  through/ 
Transparence 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


The 
post 
of  tl 
film 


The 
con 
or  tl 
app 

The 
film 
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Mai 
in  o 
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boti 
folk 


D 


Additional  comments/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires 


Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  bibliographiques 


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n 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


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Pagination  incorrect/ 
Erreurs  de  pagination 


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Additional  comments/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  I'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformit6  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche  shall 
contain  the  symbol  -^(meaning  CONTINUED"), 
or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"),  whichever 
applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la  der- 
nidre  image  de  cheque  microifiche,  selon  le  cas: 
le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le  symbols 
y  signifie  "FIN". 


The  original  copy  was  borrowed  from,  and 
filmed  with,  the  kind  consent  of  the  following 
institution: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de  l'6tablissement  prdteur 
suivant  : 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Maps  or  plates  too  large  to  be  entirely  included 
in  one  exposure  are  filmed  beginning  in  the 
upper  Iflft  hand  corner,  left  to  right  and  top  to 
bottom,  as  many  frames  as  required.  The 
following  diagrams  illustrate  the  method: 


Les  cartes  ou  les  planches  trop  grandes  pour  dtre 
reproduites  en  un  seul  cliche  sont  filmdes  d 
partir  de  Tangle  supdrieure  gauche,  de  gauche  d 
droite  et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Le  diagramme  suivant 
illustre  la  m^thode  : 


1 

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1 

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-^^l^  C^ 


RSMINISENCES  OF  PeRSONAI,  EXPERIENCE 

And  Research  in  The  Eari.y  Days 

Of  The  Pacific  Coast 

From  Alaska  to  Panama. 

BY 


Major    William    Down 

fFOONDEB  OF  DOWNIEVILLE,  CAL.] 


le 


^ 


-Press  of- 


The   California  Publishing  Co. 

San  Francisco,  Cai,. 

1893 


375 


#i  a  ;>  Jl  o  t> 


Pi 


COPYKIGHTED  BY 

THE  CALIFORNIA  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

ALL,  RTGHTS    BESEUVED. 


I      I 


TIopo  told  Its  flattering  talc:  "romo  sopk  ye  here— 
"For  couriiK'o,  Kortiiiu'  nives  you  sliiiiiiiK  p)l«l! 
"Rt'inove  ttu' trcnsdro's  niiintel  an«l  Ix'hold 
"The  glittering  specks  that  from  I  eneath  it  peer, 


"|,oi'"e  home  and  frieniis,  leaveall  that  you  hold  dear- 
"As  .         n  won  tlu'  fjo'dt'ii  fleece  of  old 
"Shall  you  have  your  rewanl— a  hundred  fold— 
"Come,  tarry  not— your  greatest  chance  is  near!" 


And  so  like  Jason's  Arponants  they  went— 
Kach  sinew  strained,  eacli  liardy  muscle  bent, 
\Vith(!ourage,  youth  and  vigor,  "who  could  fail? 


Some  ne'er  returned,  their  story  none  could  tell— 

A  fcv  to-day  in  lofty  mansions  dwell, 

But  more,  by  fur,  deny  hope's  Qattering  tale 

Chris  M.  Waage. 


O  the  surviving  members  of  the 
ad\/ance  guafd  of  gold  hunters, 
the  California  pioneers  and  their 
descendants,  cuho  are  noui  living 
throughout  the  United  States,  this 
book  is  most  respectfully  dedicated 
by  the  AUTHOR 


INTRODUCTION 

In  presenting  this  book  to  the  public  the  publishers 
feel  assured  that  it  is  almost  superfluous,  to  introduce 
the  author  or  dwell  upon  the  merit  which  these 
pages  possess,  as  originating  from  the  pen  of  Major 
William  Downie.  As  one  of  the  very  earliest  pioneers 
and  gold  seekers  in  California,  Major  Downie  has  be- 
come a  man  of  universal  interest,  while  to  some  of  his 
discov3ries  in  the  early  days  is  due  the  fever  heat  of  ex- 
citement, which  at  that  period,  made  the  world's  great 
heart  palpitate  with  double-quick  pulsation,  and  sent 
thousands  of  daring  adventurers  across  the  arid  deserts 
and  the  stormy  main. 

Too  much  cannot  be  said  of  the  remarkable  nature,  of 
which  Major  Downie  is  possessed,  having  been  endowed 
with  a  physique  and  general  constitution,  which  at  times 
have  carried  him  through  the  most  desperate  circum- 
stances, the  subject  of  these  pages  is  mentally  and 
morally  equipped  with  a  temperament  which  enabled 
him  to  successfully  withstand  the  temptations  that  caused 
the  fall  of  so  many  others  in  the  early  days;  while  his 
native  generosity  and  amiability  secured  for  him  many 
friends,  who  dearly  prized  his  personality. 

As  a  practical  miner,  Major  Do\.  ae  is  without  a  peer, 
and  even  to  this  day  his  authority  is  acknowledged,  and 
his  advice  is  taken  by  any  working  miner,  and  rarely 
without  benefit  to  the  recipient.  These  pages  tell  of  the 
days  when  this  experience  was  gained;  the  days  on  the 


< 


Yuba,  wlien,  to  honor  him,  his  companions  called  the 
settlement  at  the  forks,  Downieville,  the  name  by  wh.ch 
it  is  known  as  yet;  the  days  of  hardships  in  the  snow-clad 
Sierras;  the  adventures  in  British  Columbia  and  Alaska; 
and  the  weird  search  for  ixold  in  the  Indian  fjraves  of 
Panama. 

It  was  only  after  repeated  solicitations  from  his  friends 
that  Major  Downie  allowed  his  notes  to  be  given  out  for 
publication.  The  material  thus  provided  was  entrusted 
by  the  publishers  to  Mr.  Chris  M.  Waage  for  compi- 
lation and  revision.  Mr.  Waage  is  a  journalist  and 
literateur  of  some  note,  and  he  has  spared  no  effort  in 
order  to  present  Major  Downie's  papers  in  the  most 
acceptable  form,  retaining  throughout,  the  simple  modest 
way  of  relating  the  story,  which  characterizes  the  original 
manuscript. 

In  conclusion,  the  publishers  wish  to  draw  attention  to 
the  illustrations,  which  have  been  chosen  with  a  view  to 
depict  the  situations  as  far  as  possible.  Some  of  them 
have  been  reproduced  from  engravings  dating  back  to 
the  very  earliest  days,  when  pictorial  art  of  this  class  was 
first  introduced  into  California. 

The  Publishers. 


HURTINB  F0R  BBLD, 


CHAPTER  I. 

Introductory  Remarks — At  Home  in  Scotland — First  Voyage — A 
Sailor  on  the  Lakes — Lumber  Trade  in  Buffalo — The  Gold 
Fever — Round  the  Horn — San  Francisco — Expensive  Din- 
ners— The  Glorious  Fourth — Generous  Gamblers — Fun  with 
the  Immigrants. 

I  have  been  asked  by  many  friends  to  give  to  the 
world,  through  a  publication,  some  of  my  reminiscences  of 
the  early  days  of  gold  hunting  and  adventures  on  the 
Pacific  Coast,  and  it  is  in  complying  with  this  oft  re- 
peated request  that  I  have  penned  the  following. 

Some  of  the  incidents  described,  may  be  fairly  said  at 
one  time  to  have  helped  to  revolutionize  the  known  world, 
and  for  that  reason  must  forever  retain  a  certain  interest. 

The  narrative  throughout  is  based  upon  personal  ex- 
periences, observations  and  conclusions,  and  iS  compiled 
from  notes,  taken  at  the  time;  recollections,  corroborated 
by  friends  who  were  with  me  at  the  periods  referred  to; 
letters,  which  have  passed  between  myself  and  friends,  and 
from  official  reports  bearing  upon  the  circumstances 
related.  The  correctness  of  my  account  is  therefore 
warranted,  and,  while  it  is  not  infrequent  to  read  de- 
scriptions of  life  in  the  early  days,  which  are  highly 
flavored  with  unnecessary  romance,  I  claim  for  my  work 
that  in  its  details  it  corresponds  with  actual  facts  which 
have  now  become  part  and  parcel  of  the  history  of  the 
western  coast  of  this  great  continent 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD. 


ii^ 


I  was  born  in  tlio  city  of  Glasgow,  Scotland,  in  the 
year  1819.  It  was  the  memorable  year  when  the  terrible 
masacre  took  place  at  the  Manchester  reform  meetin*^. 
James  Monroe  was  then  the  fifth  president  of  the  United 
States,  and  Georjje  III  was  kini;  of  Great  Britain.  It  was 
in  the  days  when  such  names  as  Shelley,  Byron,  Scott, 
Coleridge  and  Wordsworth  shone  in  the  literary  firma- 
ment; the  days  of  early  steamboat  traveling,  and  the 
days  that  had  not  as  yet  seen  the  locomotive  engines 
dashing,  snorting  and  fuming  throug  quiet  fields.  In 
that  same  year  the  steamer  Savannau,  350  terns,  came 
from  New  York  to  Liverpool  in  26  days,  and  the  passage 
was  reijarded  as  a  marvel.  There  were  then  in  the 
whole  of  Scotland  not  twelve  steamers,  and  only  the 
wheels  of  one  stirred  the  surface  of  the  river  Clyde.  It 
seems  long  ago,  and  the  world  to-day  seems  scarcely  the 
same  as  in  those  da  vs. 

t/ 

I  was  raised  in  Ayrshire.  From  quite  a  boy  my  mind 
was  bent  upon  adventure.  When  I  saw  the  waves  roll- 
ing in  through  the  North  Channel,  I  knew  from  my 
school  books  that  they  came  from  the  great  Atlantic, 
and  I  longed  to  be  on  thcnn  and  sail  away  to  different 
parts  of  the  great  world.  So,  when  I  was  old  enough, 
I  shipped  on  board  a  vessel  that  carried  coal  between 
different  points  on  the  coast.  It  was  not  exactly  what  I 
wanted,  but  it  fitted  me  for  a  larsrer  undertakinof,  when 
a  chance  should  afford  itself,  and  when  it  came  I  was 
ready  for  it.  My  first  deep-sea  voyage  was  to  Australia 
on  a  Glasgow  vessel.  I  was  in  Sidney  in  the  days, 
when  Botany  Bay  was  made  the  inhospitable  home  for 
thousands  of  condemned  prisoners,  whose  greatest  offense 
in  many  instances  consisted  in  shooting  a  jack  rabbit  in 
the  Squire's  covers.  I  recollect  seeing  the  landing  of  a 
cargo  of  unfortunates  who  had  been  consigned  to  those, 
then  desolate,  regions.     From  Australia  we  sailed  to  the 


1 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD. 


9 


East  Indies  and  visited  the  Isle  of  France  and  from  there 
we  went  to  London. 

My  next  voyage  was  to  America.  I  shipped  at  Done- 
gal for  Quebec  in  the  old  Spring  Hill  and  arrived  there, 
determined  to  try  my  fortune  in  foreign  lands,  before 
returning  home.  I  had  a  varied  experience.  I  first  sailed 
lakes  Ontario  and  Erie.  From  there  I  drifted  into  the 
lumber  business  on  Grand  River,  established  a  store  in 
Dunvillo  at  the  mouth  of  this  stream,  and  ultimately, 
in  partnership  with  a  man  named  J.  C.  Hay  ward,  became 
interested  in  lumber  yards  on  the  Buffalo  Shipping  Canal. 

I  was  stopping  in  Butlalo  at  the  Love  Joy  Hotel, 
when  I  first  heard  of  the  discoverv  of  cfold  in  California. 
The  result  the  rumors  produced  was  magical.  Men  of 
all  ages  and  in  all  conditions  of  life  got  the  gold  fever, 
and  I  among  the  rest.  Some  of  the  tales  told  were  fab- 
ulous, and  the  reports  oftreasures  found  in  some  instances 
were  enough  to  entice  any  man  of  grit  and  daring  to 
challenge  fortune  As  will  be  seen  further  on,  many 
even,  who  had  neither  of  these  qualities,  ventured  upon 
the  search  for  gold,  prompted  merely  by  the  lust  for  gain, 
and  the  hope,  perchance,  of  escaping  the  yolk  of  poverty, 
or  the  discomfort  of  narrow  circumstances.  At  the 
hotel  the  advisability  of  going  to  California  to  try  our 
luck  had  become  a  leading  topic  among  a  number  of  the 
boarders,  and  at  last  I  made  up  my  mind  to  go.  Being 
a  sailor  I  concluded  that  to  travel  by  sea  would  be  both 
more  comfortable  and  far  safer  than  to  trust  ones  self  to 
the  chances  of  traversing  vast  deserts  and  encountering 
hostile  Indians.  So  I  shipped  from  Boston  for  New 
Orleans  on  board  the  brig  Monterey. 

I  well  remember  the  day  of  my  departure  for  the  far 
West.  It  was  the  day  before  General  Zacharias  Taylor 
was  elected  to  the  presidency,  which  was  to  be  his  only 


10 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


for  one  brief  year.  Political  enthusiasm  ran  high,  and 
much  achniration  was  expressed  for  the  gallant  soldier, 
who  had  distinjxuished  himself  so  much  during^  the 
Mexican  war;  but  I  cared  little  about  politics  and  was 
anxious  to  get  away. 

Arrived  at  New  Orleans  the  next  thing  was  to  secure 
passage  to  San  Francisco  Bay.  The  small  vessels,  going 
by  the  Panama  route,  were  crowded  to  their  utmost 
extent,  and  I  concluded  to  try  and  work  my  passage  on 
some  ship,  going  around  the  Horn.  Fortune  favored 
me,  and  I  was  not  long  in  finding  the  desired  opportunity. 
The  clipper  ''Architect,"  in  command  of  Captain  Gray  of 
Baltimore,  was  lying  ready  to  sail,  and  a  shipping  master 
informed  me  that  just  one  man  was  wanted  to  sign  articles 
at  once.  I  offered  my  services  and  the  shipping  master 
kindly  responded:  "Take  off  that  black  coat,"  he  said, 
"and  come  to  the  office  in  the  morning." 

I  did  as  he  told  me,  and  the  next  morninsf  I  siirned 
articles,  received  two  months  wages  in  advance,  and  a  few 
hours  after  had  made  myself  perfectly  at  home  on  board. 
This  was  indeed  a  piece  of  good  luck,  for  there  were  any 
number  of  men  in  those  days,  who  would  gladly  have 
worked  their  passage  out  for  nothing,  and  I  believe  I 
was  the  only  foremast  hand  who  received  any  wages. 
Everybody  on  board  with  the  exception  of  the  officers 
was  bound  for  the  mines.  The  thirst  for  gold  and  ad- 
venture had  seized  everybody,  and,  when  after  a  long 
and  tedious  voyage  we  ultimately  dropped  anchor  in  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco,  all  hands  left  the  ship  at  once,  for 
such  was  the  custom  in  '49. 

San  Francisco  at  that  period  looked  vastly  different  to 
what  it  does  nowadays.  A  number  of  the  crew  stayed 
together,  and  we  at  once  mpde  our  way  for  some  place, 
where  we  could  camp  for  the  night.     I  still  remember 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


11 


the  names  of  Perkins,  Pierce  and  Gibson  as  belonging  to 
our  company,  and  there  were  more,  whose  names  I  have 
forgotten.  It  was  on  the  27th  day  of  June,  1849,  that 
we  hmded.  Tho  weather  was  mild,  and  there  was  no 
reason  to  waste  money  on  hotel  acconimodations,  which 
then  were  both  scarce  and  ex})ensive,  so  we  determined 
to  camp  for  the  night  in  Hide  Park.  The  name  sounds 
aristocratic  enough,  but  the  place  itself  was  anything 
but  invitinir.  The  location  of  it  was  about  where  now 
the  Palace  Hotel  rears  its  lofty  walls,  and  it  derived  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  here  the  old  Spanish  settlers 
piled  up  their  hides  and  horns,  previous  to  shipping  them, 
and  at  the  time  of  our  arrival  the  ground  was  covered 
with  these  goods  arranged  in  bales  and  proper  heaps. 
Here  we  made  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  circumstances 
would  permit,  and  spent  the  first  night  in  the  land  of 
gold,  of  hope  and  of  opportunity. 

After  we  had  spent  a  few  days  in  our  new  quarters 
and  got  the  lay  of  the  land,  we  all  succeeded  in  getting 
work.  Some  of  us  found  employment  at  handling  lum- 
ber, others  at  rolling  casks  and  barrels  up  the  beach  as 
fast  as  the  lighter  could  bring  them  from  the  vessel, 
while  I  with  three  or  four  others  was  hired  to  ballast  a 
brig,  which  was  lying  off  the  Mission.  In  order  to  get 
aboard  the  brig  we  had  to  take  a  boat,  which  lay  on  the 
beach  at  the  foot  of  what  is  now  Sansome  Street,  and  I 
well  recollect  the  first  morning,  as  we  were  walking  down, 
to  this  spot,  encountering  several  men,  who  came  run- 
ning toward  us  and  pretended  to  warn  us  against  going 
on  board  the  brig,  saying  "They  would  do  for  us  there.'* 
These  fellows,  who  belonged  to  the  class,  known  as 
"Sidney  Ducks,"  reckoned  without  a  host.  We  told  them 
that  nothing  could  scare  us,  we  had  just  landed  after  a 
long  voyage  and  nothing  would  please  us  better  than  a 


12 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


good  live  fight.  When  they  hef»"d  this,  they  concluded 
to  leave  us  alone,  and  we  were  no  more  troubled  with 
their  importunities. 

Labor  was  scarce  then,  as  nearly  everybody  was  mak- 
ing for  the  mines,  and  work  was  therefore  plentiful.  We 
received  from  $8.00  to  $16.00  a  day,  but  could  not  aflbrd 
to  enorage  board  and  lodijiniif,  for  which  the  most  exhor- 
bitant  prices  were  charged,  and  so  made  the  best  of  it  in 
our  own  camps.  Some  of  our  passengers  went  to  the 
Parker  'House  to  board  but  had  to  mve  it  uo,  as  the 
prices  were  too  high.  The  Parker  House  was  then  tbe 
principal  hotel  in  San  Francisco.  It  was  situated  on 
Kearny  Street,  and  the  expense  of  staying  at  a  hostelry 
of  that  class  in  '49  may  be  imagined,  when  it  is  stated 
that  a  good  dinner  cost  from  $8.00  to  $12.00.  No  won- 
der our  passengers  found  their  purses  somewhat  too  small 
for  a  prolonged  stay  at  this  liotel. 

I  remember  one  fellow  traveler  in  particular,  who  by 
the  time  he  landed  had  become  thoroughly  disgusted 
with  salt  beef  and  hard  tack,  and  made  up  his  mind  to 
go  somewhere  at  once,  where  he  could  get  a  good  dinner. 
He  was  told  that  the  Parker  House  was  the  place  for  him, 
and  so  thither  he  went,  having  first  put  into  his  pocket 
a  Spanish  Doubloon,  which  was  worth  about  $10.00. 
The  dinner  was  a  pleasant  change  in  the  diet  of  our  friend, 
and,  after  he  had  enjoyed  it,  he  went  to  the  counter  and 
threw  down  the  gold  piece  to  pay  for  the  meal.  The 
clerk  looked  carefully  at  the  coin,  put  it  in  the  till  and 
ojave  his  customer  four  dollars  in  chano^e.  "What  is  that?" 
asked  the  stranger.  "Your  change,"  replied  the  clerk, 
"your  change  for  dinner,"  and  then  engaged  in  conversa- 
tion with  other  customers. 

As  soon  as  the  traveler  got  an  opportunity  he  again 
approached  the  clerk  and  asked   him   confidentially   to 


I 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


15 


state  what  they  charged  for  dinner  at  this  establishment, 

"Twelve  dollars,"  said  the  clerk  suavely,  ''twelve  dol- 
lars— that's  all  sir." 

"See  here,"  said  the  traveler,  holding  out  the  four 
dollars  he  had  received  as  change,  "if  that  is  so,  you 
may  as  well  take  these  other  four  dollars  along  with  it, 
as  I  can't  get  anything  in  this  town  for  such  a  small 
amount." 

There  are  many  scenes  and  incidents,  that  occured 
during  my  first  visit  to  San  Francisco,  which,  although 
they  then  puzzled  me,  now  cause  me  to  smile  as  I  re- 
member them.  The  first  celebration  of  the  Fourth  of 
July,  which  I  witnessed  in  the  weird  and  wondrous  West, 
left  an  indelible  impression  upon  me.  The  festivities 
were  minus  the  more  modern  Chinese  fireworks,  but  let 
those  who  object  to  this  mode  of  celebration,  appreciate  the 
fact  that  the  general  tumult  and  noise  was  not  produced 
by  anything  so  harmless.  In  '49  the  glorious  Fourth  was 
usihered  in  by  drinking  to  the  constitution  in  bumpers, 
until  the  celebrants  were  half-seas  over.  Then  began 
the  fun.  Instead  of  firecrackers,  pistols  were  used,  in- 
stead of  sending  up  rockets,  men  would  show  their 
adroitness  with  the  gun  by  shooting  through  windowpanes, 
hitting  lighted  lamps  or  candles  and  offering  to  shoot  off 
buttons  from  their  friends'  garments.  One  episode  caused 
quite  a  little  excitement.  An  old  Mexican,  who  had  got 
somewhat  mixed  in  the  political  situation,  hoisted  his 
native  flag,  but  this  so  anno^^ed  the  Americans  that  they 
forthwith  pulled  it  down,  and  the  old  fellow  in  his  dis- 
gust rolled  himself  up  in  his  colors  and  went  to  sleep. 

Gambling  was  then  carried  on  on  a  large  scale  all  over 
the  city,  and  Faro  and  Monte  were  the  most  frequent 
games.  The  banker  would  have  a  little  tin  cup  by  his 
side,  in  which   he  would  deposit  all  silver  coins  under 


14 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


half  a  dollar.  This  small  chansre  was  termed  "chicken 
feed,"  and  when  anybody  came  in  looking  hungry  or 
thirsty,  and  seemingly  in  want  of  means  to  satisfy  his 
cravings,  the  banker  would  dive  into  the  tin  cup  and  take 
from  it  a  dollar  or  more,  which  he  would  hand  to  the 
strani^er  that  he  miijht  Qot  relief.  There  was  a  certain 
spirit  of  magnanimity  and  generosity,  which  inspired  all 
who  had  plenty  of  money  at  that  time,  and  it  extended 
even  into  those  grades  of  the  community,  who  made  a 
living  by  preying  upon  the  folly  of  others.  One  more 
incident  I  must  relate,  because  at  the  time  being  it  caused 
much  merriment  at  the  expense  of  a  number  of  "green- 
horns," and  characterizes  life  at  that  period.  The 
steamer  from  Panama  arrived  with  a  lar«;e  number  of 
passengers,  nearly  all  of  whom  were  bcund  for  the  mines. 
Towards  evening  of  the  day  when  they  had  come  ashore, 
a  number  of  the  boys  played  a,  joke  on  the  new  arrivals, 
which  none  of  them  could  possibly  forget,  harmless  as  it 
was.  They  marched  into  town,  forming  quite  a  large 
company.  Every  man  was  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  they 
were  accompanied  by  a  lot  of  Indians,  who  carried  sacks 
filled  with  sand  and  pebbles  from  the  seashore.  The 
sacks  were  marked  mucha  oro,  and  the  whole  caravan 
presented  the  appearance  of  being  a  band  of  successful 
miners,  returning  from  the  gold  fields.  The  immigrants 
would  stop  in  amazement,  wherever  they  came  upon  the 
company,  and  ask  all  sorts  of  questions  relative  to  this 
apparently  magnificent  treasure,  some  of  them  expressing 
their  doubts  that  there  would  be  any  more  gold  left  to 
look  for,  others  talking  hopefully  of  the  brilliant  prospect 
before  them.  Of  course  the  initiated  enjoyed  the  joke 
hugely. 

Such  w^as  life  in  San  Francisco  in  the  early  days,  and 
such  the  men,  who  laid  the  foundation  for  a  great  and 
magnificent  city. 


CHAPTER  II. 


On  Board  the  Milwaukee— No  Clearance  Papers— Going  up  the 
River— Sacramento — Teamsters  Talk— Off  for  the  Yuba— 
First  Experience— War  upon  Foreigners — A  Silent  Friend — 
Store  Keeping — Lumpy  Gold — Restless — Foster's  Bar — Sick 
Men  with  Great  Appetites — In  Search  of  a  Partner. 

I  was  now  (jetting^  tired  of  life  in  San  Francisco,  little 
as  I  had  seen  of  it,  for  indeed  the  greater  part  of  my 
time  had  been  taken  up  with  work,  and  I  was  saving  my 
money  till  such  time,  as  I  should  want  it  for  the  purpose 
of  going  to  the  mines.  It  was  not  then  always  an  easy 
matter  to  hold  on  to  one's  cash.  Alluring  temptations 
were  thrown  in  the  way  of  the  newcomer  from  all  quar- 
ters, and  the  chances  of  the  gambling  table  induced  many 
a  foolish  fellow  to  part  with  the  coin,  which  might  have 
opened  far  brighter  prospects  to  him,  had  he  stuck  to  it, 
and  disbursed  it  more  judiciously.  But  outside  the 
gambling  resorts  all  manner  of  devices  were  invented 
by  cunning  schemers,  whose  designs  were  to  profit  by  the 
youth  or  inexperience  of  the  immigrants,  for  the  purpose 
of  enriching  themselves. 

The  Schooner  Milwaukee  was  getting  ready  to  go  to 
Sacra Diento,  and  I  took  passage  on  her.  She  was  a  small 
craft  of  about  fifteen  tons,  carrying  a  general  cargo  of 
merchandise  and  a  number  of  passengers  as  well.  It 
was  on  the  5th  of  July  1849  that  we  left  San  Francisco 
with  the  excitement  of  the  great  national  holiday  fresh 
in  our  minds,  and  the  effects  of  patriotic  drinks  still  heat- 


IG 


HUNTING   KOR   GOLD 


■  I 


lit: 


ing  the  brow  of  some  of  our  fellow  passengers.  I  for  one 
was  particularly  pleased  to  get  away  from  the  reckless 
city,  where  it  seemed  to  nie  that  men's  passions  were 
worked  up  to  fever  hoat,  and  where  everything  was  done 
to  excite  them.  I  had  not  then  even  a  forecast  of  the 
scenes  that  should  open  to  me.  I  little  dreamed  that  the 
quiet  of  the  mountains  and  the  silence  of  the  valleys 
were  even  at  that  hour  echoinof  with  the  thunder  of 
human  emotions;  that  nature  in  its  holiest  solitude  was 
being  made  the  theater,  in  which  was  enacted  the  most 
powerful  scenes  of  human  aspirations,  degradation  and 
often  vice  in  its  most  hideous  form.  The  sentiment  of 
hope  was  predominant  with  all  of  us,  and  I  fully  believe 
that  every  man  on  board  depicted  to  himself  treasures  of 
his  own,  greater  than  any  on  which  Aladin's  lamp  threw 
its  magic  light,  and  fondly  believed  that  the  labor  of 
months  would  secjure  to  him  years  of  ease  and  plenty  and 
a  life  of  unbroken  satisfaction.  Alas  for  hope!  The  few 
verses  at  the  beginning  of  my  narrative  express  pretty 
nearly  what  became  of  the  gold  seekeis.  The  tracks  of 
some  few  led  to  gilded  halls,  but  far  aore  lead  to  dom- 
icils,  where  disappointment  told  her  story  in  the  modest 
larder,  while  there  are  many  whose  tracks  were  never 
found;  whose  voices  were  stilled  in  the  midst  of  the  brawls 
and  on  whose  unknown  graves  no  tears  were  ever  shed. 

The  traveler  who  to-day  goes  to  Sacramento,  comfort- 
ably seated  in  a  railroad  car,  or  even  by  the  little  river 
steamer,  can  hardly  imagine  what  our  journey  meant. 
The  accommodations  on  the  schooner  were  extremely- 
scanty,  and  in  regard  to  room,  the  hold  and  the  deck 
cabin  were  pretty  much  on  a  par,  while  the  deck  itself  was 
so  full  of  all  sorts  of  cargo  that  it  was  almost  an  impos- 
sibility to  get  the  necessary  exercise.  If  one  wished  to 
lie  down,  he  had  to  remove  some  of  the  cargo  from  the 


HUNTING   FOR  GOLD 


17 


ew 
bty 

1 

of 

1 

)m- 

"» 

lest 

■ '  'i^S 

ver 

lwU 

d. 

-^ 

Dri- 

'dH 

ver 

v^^l 

mt. 

ely 

eck 

Aras 

)()S- 

to 

the 

hold,  put  it  on  deck  wherever  he  could  find  space,  and 
rest  himself  on  the  barrels  below,  where  he  might  remain 
aa  long  as  he  pleased  and  could  bear  the  suftbcating 
atmosphere  of  the  limited  space.  There  was  no  cheering 
bell  that  called  to  meals;  no  happy  conversation  over  a 
v/ell  laid  table  for  everybody  was  told  to  bring  his  own 
grub  or  go  without  it,  and  for  this  kind  of  a  passage  we 
were  charged  one  ounce  of  gold  or  the  equivalent  in 
silver. 

After  a  good  deal  of  pulling  and  hauling  we  got  under 
way  and  things  went  all  right  until  we  reached  Benicia. 
Here  our  craft  was  boarded  by  Uncle  Sam's  officers,  and, 
as  our  captain  could  show  no  clearance  papers  from  the 
port  of  San  Francisco,  he  was  told  to  return  and  secure 
them  before  we  could  proceed  any  further.  Conse- 
quently the  Milwaukee  had  to  come  to,  and  we  lay  there 
for  three  long  days,  while  the  captain  took  a  trip  back  to 
San  Francisco  and  returned  with  the  necessary  docu- 
ments which  enabled  us  to  continue  our  voyage.  It  was 
a  tedious  undertaking  to  go  up  the  river.  There  was 
very  little  sailing  done,  and  in  order  to  make  any  head- 
way at  all  we  had  to  pull  and  warp  the  old  hulk  most  of 
the  way,  and  everybody  took  a  hand  to  help  along, 
There  was  a  good  deal  of  impatience  manifested  at  times, 
but  on  the  whole  the  crowd  put  up  with  the  inconven- 
iences fairly  well,  most  of  them  consoling  themselves 
with  flatterinfy  thoug^hts  of  the  Gold  t)io:i»intrs  and  their 
expected  success  there.     , 

After  a  voyage  of  eleven  days  we  reached  Sacramento. 
The  people  we  met  here  were  mostly  of  a  different  stamp 
from  what  we  had  seen  in  San  Francisco.  There  was 
considerably  more  of  comparatively  legitimate  business 
done  here,  as  the  men  came  down  to  this  city  from  the 
mines  to  deposit  their  find  and  purchase  rations.     The 


T 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


19 


teamsters  did  a  trenicndotis  busineps  and  took  load*  oi 
provisions  and  all  sorts  of  necessaries  of  life  on  the  gold 
fields,  in  all  directions,  wherever  the  gold-seekers  were, 
or  the  storekeepers  catered  to  the  adventurers.  It  was 
therefore  a  matter  of  course  that  we  first  consuUed  the 
teamsters,  as  to  where  we  might  go  with  the  best  chance 
of  success.  They  in  return  seemed  to  agree  that  the 
American  River  was  the  best  place  for  us.  We  were 
told  that  it  was  a  good  deal  nearer  than  the  Yuba,  and 
that  gold  was  panning  out  there  as  well  as  on  any  of 
the  fields. 

We  were  as  yet  undetermined  when  I  happened  to 
meet  Mr.  J.  Rose,  who  was  going  to  the  mines  on  the 
Yuba,  with  goods.  His  accounts  of  the  location  decided 
me,  and  we  agreed  to  work  the  launch  up  the  Yuba  as 
far  as  Nye's  ranch,  which  is  now  known  as  Marysville. 
We  then  procured  a  case  of  brandy,  preserved  meats, 
and  other  necessary  articles,  stowed  them  away  in  the 
stern  sheets,  and  a  fair  wind  springing  up,  we  set  sail. 
The  next  morning  we  were  at  Vernon's,  and  after  a  two 
days  voyage  arrived  at  Nye's  Ranch,  when  those  of  us 
who  were  bound  for  the  mines,  left  the  frail  craft,  and 
set  out  on  our  inliifrimaiie. 

There  were  three  of  us, and  we  were  buoyant  with  happy 
anticipations  as  we  made  our  way  to  Rose's  Bar,  where 
we  learned  that  there  were  diggings  further  up  the 
river,  and  determined  to  push  up  to  Bullard's  Bar. 
Here  we  bought  a  rocker  for  twelve  and  one-half  ounces, 
and  now  we  stood  at  the  gate  that  should  lead  us  into 
the  promised  land.  It  seems  strange  now  to  think  back 
upon  our  first  experience  in  trying  to  find  gold,  and  the 
primitive  manner  in  which  we  w^ent  to  work.  The  three 
of  us  divided  the  labor,  so  that  one  worked  the  rocker, 
while  the  other  stirred,  and  the  third  used  the  pick  and 


HUNTING    FOR    OOT.D 


21 


sliovel  and  carried  the  dirt  in  a  hag,  about  a  panful  at  a 
time.  I  honestly  believe  that  I  could  now  run  one  day's 
vvoik  through  in  one  hour,  pick,  shovel,  rocker  and  all. 
We  used  a  scoop  about  the  size  of  a  cigar  box  for  wet- 
ting the  dirt.  It  had  a  long  hatidle  to  it,  and  when  the 
water  was  thrown  on  the  dirt  it  would  be  stirred  up,  a 
process  somewhat  similar  to  making  nuish. 

The  weather  that  summer  was  extremely  hot,  and 
the  temperature  in  the  middle  of  the  day  became  almost 
unbearable,  more  especially  to  those  who  had  not  yet 
become  acclimated.  It  was  a  common  thinof  amons: 
new  arrivals  to  take  a  siesta  of  several  liours  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  owing  to  an  idea,  generally  imported 
from  home,  that  it  v/as  not  healthy  to  work  during 
mid-day  hours  in  California. 

At  Bullard's  Bar  some  of  the  singular  scenes  of  min- 
ers' camp  life  in  those  days  began  to  unfold  themselves 
to  me,  and  here,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw  a  party  organ- 
ized for  the  pur[)ose  of  driving  away  ''foreigners". 
What  was  implied  by  the  term  "foreigners"  was  not 
exactly  clear  to  me  at  that  time,  and  it  would  be  hard 
for  me  to  explain  it  even  now.  The  little  company  so 
organized,  consisted  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  men. 
They  were  armed  with  pistols,  knives,  rifles  and  old 
shotguns,  and  I  remember  distinctly  that  they  were 
headed  by  a  man  who  carried  the  stars  and  stripes  in  an 
edition  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  pocket  handker- 
chief 

Not  far  from  where  we  were  working,  these  brave 
warriors  made  a  halt  and  rested  for  a  while,  and  I  took 
the  opportunity  to  ask  one  of  the  men,  where  they  were 
going,  and  for  what  purpose.  In  reply  I  was  told  in 
tip-top  Tiperrary  brogue,  that  the  expedition  had  set  out 
for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  river  thirty  miles  up 


22 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


■ii' 


and  dowa  with  a  view  to  driviiuj:  away  all  "foreij^jncrs." 
The  crowd  was  a  motley  one,  and  as  to  nationality, 
somewhat  mixed.  Irishmen  were  marching  to  drive  off 
the  Kanakas,  who  had  assisted  brave  Captain  Sutter,  of 
immortal  fame,  when  he  was  in  difficulty  with  the 
Californians.  They  were  joined  hy  Dutchmen  and 
Germans,  who  could  not  speak  a  word  of  En<jjlish,  hut 
were  jabbering  together  in  their  own  harsh  jargon,  while 


CAPTAIN  JOHN  A.  SUTTER. 

none  of  them  had  ever  been  in  the  United  States. 
Then  there  were  a  few  New  Yorkers,  who  really  went 
out  for  the  purpose  of  looking  after  a  good  claim,  already 
opened,  but  all  had  joined  hands  in  the  alleged  common 
interest  of  protecting  the  native  soil  (for  that  was  really 
the  only  native  feature  about  it),  against  the  invasion  of 
"foreigner?." 

I  never  learned  whether  this  expedition  met  with  any 
success  or  not,  and  whether  they  derived  any  benefit 


HUNTING    rOR   GOLD 


28 


from  their  undortakin<j^.  I  worked  along  with  my  part- 
ners through  tlie  nw^nths  of  August  and  Septeniher, 
when  we  began  to  discuss  the  advisabiUty  of  getting  out 
of  the  mountains.  Matters  were  not  altogether  satis- 
factory. I  suffered  from  scurvy,  and  our  food  was  not 
of  tl-.e  best,  as  provisions  were  getting  very  scarce  and 
prices  had  risen  ii  proportion.  I  had  tried  to  wing-dam 
some  of  our  claims,  so  as  to  find  out  whether  there  was 
anything  in  the  bed  of  the  stream  or  not,  but  my  efforts 
had  proved  futile,  as  we  could  not  succeed  in  drying  the 
claims.  I  cannot  say  that  wo  felt  disheartened  at  our 
difficulties,  but  the  circumstances  could  not  be  called 
encourajrint',  and  we  recognized  the  fact. 

There  was  one  thing,  about  this  time, which  caused  me 
a  good  deal  of  trouble  and  considerably  puzzled  my 
imagination  It  was  the  mystery  with  which  the  miners 
surrounded  all  matters  appertaining  to  prospecting. 
One  man  in  particular  put  my  patience  to  a  test  in  this 
regard,  and  it  was  his  reticence  which  ultimately  caused 
me  to  receive  a  lesson  on  some  of  the  points  of  etiquette 
observed  among  miners  in  those  days. 

The  man  I  refer  to  was  the  same  who  had  sold 
me  a  rocker  for  the  trifling  pay  of  twelve  ounces 
and  a  half.  I  was  in  the  habit  of  occasionally  calling 
at  his  camp,  and  always  found  him  particularly  friendly 
and  aftable.  It  seemed,  therefore,  strange  to  me  that, 
while  he  would  converse  with  me  freely  on  all  other 
matters,  as  soon  as  I  asked  him  for  any  information  in 
regard  to  finding  gold,  he  became  as  dumb  as  the  pro- 
verbial clam.  He  belonged  to  a  company  from 
Waterloo  in  the  State  of  New  York,  and  he  used  to  2"o 
out  prospecting,  staying  away  often  from  eight  to  ten  days 
at  a  stretch.  It  was  more  in  particular,  when  he  re- 
turned  from  these  trips,  that  I  used  to  visit  him.     I 


^    ; 


24 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


:U  ■  I 


ii 


I 


li  .i 


Si  1 

in  I 


knew  that  there  was  soinethiriir  called  Wambo's  Bar: 
that  the  gold  became  finer  about  this  locality  and  ulti- 
mately ran  out  altosrether,  and  I  also  knew  that  a  Mr. 

Van (sonu'thing)  used  to  go  out  prospecting  with  my 

friend.  But  to  all  my  interrogations  as  to  where  they 
had  been,  what  succesa  they  had  met  with,  or  anything 
else  that  came  natural  to  me  to  ask,  I  received  evasive 
ansv/ers,  or  no  rcspcmse  at  all,  until  one  day  my  friend 
made  me  acquainted  with  the  code  that  guided  a  min- 
er's toniiue  in  those  reijjions. 

"Look  here  young  fellow,"  he  said,  "if  there  is  a  thing 
a  miner  don't  care  to  talk  about,  it  is  where  he  has  been, 
and  you  might  say  that  io  is  just  as  good  as  law  among 
prospectors,  that  every  man  keeps  mum.  Let  me  give 
you  a  bit  of  advice:  When  you  get  to  feel  that  way 
yourself;  that  you  have  struck  it  rich  in  a  new  prospect, 
don't  you  advertise  your  good  luck  and  have  a  band  play- 
ing outside  your  tent  to  celebrate;  but  after  sundown, 
when  everything  is  settled  in  camp,  and  your  nearest 
neighbor  is  snoring  loud  enough  to  compete  with  a 
cathedral  organ,  you  just  pack  your  traps  on  your  back 
and  skip  out  ot"  camp  ;  and  if  you  should  meet  anybody 
on  the  road,  who  should  ask  you  where  you  are  going, 
just  tell  them  that  you  have  had  poor  luck  and  are  mak- 
iny;  back  for  town  But  the  next  mornina:,  brio-ht  and 
early— or  as  soon  as  you  can  reach  it — stick  your  pick 
into  your  new  claim  and  work  it  for  all  it  is  worth,  before 
anybody  comes  to  interfere  with  your  happiness." 

This  visit  to  my  friend  settled  in  my  mind  the  fact 
that  I  could  find  out  nothing  by  inquiry,  and  that  if  I 
wanted  to  learn  anything,  I  must  depend  upon  my  own 
experience.  Just  about  this  time  I  had  my  finger  badly 
jammed  with  a  rock  and  had  to  go  to  Foster's  Bar  to 
have  it  dressed,  for  which  I  paid  one-half  ounce,  and  as 


<i* 


M 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


25 


•  ■•3/ 


I  was  partly  hors-de-combat  for  the  time  being  and 
needed  a  rest,  I  divided  the  dust  with  my  mates,  and 
went  into  store-keeping. 

But  I  soon  discovered  that  store-keeping  did  not  isuit 
me,  and  I  had  not  been  long  in  it,  before  I  wished  to 
get  out  again  and  away  to  the  mines.  One  morning  two 
men  came  in  to  purchase  something.  They  had  three 
mules  with  them,  heavily  laden,  and  they  stated  that 
they  were  on  their  way  to  Foster's  Bar,  but  had  lost  the 
trail.  After  they  had  bought  the  goods,  they  paid  me 
in  lumpy  gold,  and  left.  Now  this  incident  told  a  tale 
"  t  the  same  time  as  it  settled  a  question  that  I  had  often 
asked  myself,  and  in  response  assured  me  that  they  were 
washing  gold  higher  up  the  river'. 

I  made  up  my  mind  at  once  that  I  was  going  to  have 
some  of  that  gold  myself,  and  accordingly  stored  away 
what  goods  I  had  and  went  to  Foster's  Bar,  where  I 
bought  a  horse  and  a  mule  for  the  expedition.  During 
the  first  night,  the  horse  was  either  stolen  from  me,  or 
it  strayed  away,  but  I  was  anxious  to  proceed  on  my 
journey  at  once,  provided  I  could  find  somebody  who 
would  join  me,  and  I  made  inquiries  all  through  the 
camps  with  a  view  to  finding  a  partner.  Foster's  Bar, 
at  this  period,  presented  a  singular  appearance.  It  was 
crowded  with  men,  and  if  one  went  up  to  the  camps,  his 
olfactory  organs  w^ould  perceive  in  a  somewhat  disagree- 
able manner,  the  perfumes  of  pork  and  slap-jacks,  arising 
from  a  hundred  frying-pans,  and  causing  an  odor,  which 
could  only  be  compared  with  all  the  soap  factories  in 
Ohio,  frying  out  at  full  blast.  There  was  much  sick- 
ness about  this  place  at  that  time,  and  I  do  not  wonder 
at  it,  for  the  smell  of  the  place  was  enough  to  make  any 
body  feel  out  of  sorts  In  almost  every  tent  some- 
body was  sick,  and  every    here   and    there    a  squalid- 


26 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


i 


lookinoj  individual  miijht  be  seen  crawlinjy  on  his  hands 
and  knees  to  his  tent  door,  througrh  smoke  and  dust, 
(not  gohl  dust  however),  but  even  these  invalids  would 
devour  half-cooked  slap-jacks,  or  whatever  grub  was  at 
hand,  apparently  with  the  greatest  relish,  for  it  is  a 
well-known  fact,  that  in  1849,  sick  people  had  as  good 
appetites  as  those  who  were  well  and  able  to  work. 

It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  that  in  this  crowd  I  failed 
to  find  companions  for  my  expedition.  I  had  everything 
ready  to  go,  and  had  bought  a  United  States  rifle  and 
one  of  Allen's  pepper  boxes,  but  I  was  doomed  to  disap- 
pointment. Twice  I  had  the  promise  of  company,  but 
both  times  the  parties  backed  out,  and  the  season  was 
now  so  far  advanced  that  I  almost  gave  up  the  idea  of 
going  this  fall,  and  returned  to  Bullard's  Bar,  where,  it 
will  be  remembered,  I  had  the  balance  of  my  goods 
stored.  Among  the  things,  I  had  here  a  small  quan- 
tity of  brandy,  a  liquor  highly  prized  in  those  days,  and 
also  some  lime  juice,  which  was  used  extensively  on  the 
dio-o^iniys  as  an  antidote  for  scurvy. 

I  now  thought  I  was  settled  at  store-keeping  for  the 
winter,  but  I  was  to  breathe  the  mountain  air  and  pur- 
sue my  search  for  treasure  sooner  than  I  had  anticipated. 


m 


m 


the 


CHAPTER  III. 

Off  for  the   Mines   Again— The  Early   Discovery  of  Gold— A 
Free   Mason    of  1820 — An    Interest  ng  Document   in   San 
Francisco — Did  the  Priests  Hold  the  Secret? — Captain    W. 
H.  Thomas' Account— Under  the  Wild  Onions— "Cut-Eye" 
Foster — A  Sickly  Man  from  Massachusetts — ^Jim   Crow   is 
Introduced — Over  the  Range — Facing  the  Wilds. 
One  day  some  colored  men  came  into  my  store.  They 
were  working  below  the  bar,   and  after  taking  a  drink 
they  became  genial  and  began  to  talk  about  the  diggings 
up   the   river.     I  gave  them  to  understand  that  I    was 
desirous  of  exploring  those    regions  for  the  purpose    of 
prospecting,  and  after  a  little  while  they  all  agreed  to 
join  me  in  the  attempt  to  find  gold  there.     Once  more  I 
closed  my   store.     Whatever   was   of  any   use    to   us, 
I  packed,  ready  for  the  trip,  and  wound  up  my  business 
in  short   order  according  to    regular    California   style. 
We  then  went  as  far  as  Foster's  Bar,  where  we  crossed 
the  river,  and  on  the  night  of  October  the  5th,   1849, 
we  camped  on  the  hills,      Once  more  I  was  off  in  search 
of  treasure,  and  as    I  rolled  myself  in  my  blanket  that 
evening,  I  thought  of  the  ''lumpy  gold,"  the  two  men 
had  brought  to  my  store    some     time     ago,     strange 
visions  floated   across  my  mind  as   I  closed   my  eyes, 
and  in  my  dreams  I  fancied  that  I  was  unearthing  un- 
told millions    of  hidden    treasure. 

I  cannot  here  refrain  from  commenting  upon  the  dis- 
covery of  gold  in  California.  It  is  a  universal  idea  that 
gold  was  first  discovered  in  these  parts  in  the  year 
1848,   and   we,  who  were  among  the  early  seekers  for 


27 


II  i1 


J! 


butter's  mill,  COLOMA,  CAL. WHERE  MARSHALL  FIRST  DISCOVERED  GOLD, 


HUNTING   FOR  GOLD 


29 


the  precious  metal,  undoubtedly  flattered  ourselves  that 
we  unearthed  secrets  which  had  been  hidden  from  time 
immemorial  This  however  was  only  partly  true.  It 
is  a  fact  that  we  found  gold  in  locations  where  hither- 
to it  had  never  been  known  to  exist,  but  on  the  whole, 
California  was  then  known  to  many  as  a  gold-bearing 
country. 

On  that  October  night,  to  which  I  have  referred,  I, 
for  one,  considered  that  we  were  among  the  original  dis- 
coverers, but  I  soon  had  experiences,  which  persuaded 
me  that  I  was  mistaken.  It  was  not  an  uncommon 
thing  to  fall  in  with  Indians,  who  offered  gold  for  trade, 
and  it  seemed  reasonable  to  conclude  that  if  the  In- 
dians knew  of  its  presence  at  that  period,  they  might 
have  known  it  long  before, 

I  have  since  learned  that  the  records  of  the  Mon- 
terey Custom  House  show  that  between  1838  and 
1846,  during  the  Spanish  rule,  as  much  as  $5  000 
in  washed  gold  or  gold  dust  was  exported  to  various 
parts  of  the  world.  During  that  same  period  one  Don 
Alfreds  Robinson,  who  came  to  California  in  1828,  took 
$1,000  worth  of  gold  to  Philadelphia  on  behalf  of  Don 
Abel  Stearns  of  Los  Anoele^,  and  delivered  his  iroodsto 
the  mint  in  the  quaker  city.  The  same  Don  Abel 
Stearns,  who  had  a  store  at  Los  Angeles,  which  was  the 
most  important  establishment  in  the  whole  region,  was 
a  Massachusetts  man,  who  had  received  the  Spanish 
title.  In  1820  he  was  made  a  Master  Mason  in  the 
Washington  Lodge  of  Roxbury,  and,  probably  because  of 
his  affiliation  with  this  important  craft,  he  met  with  the 
most  pronounced  success  in  his  career.  In  183G,  at  the 
age  of  forty,  he  married  a  Miss  Bandini,  who  was  then 
only  fifteen  years  old,  and  in  addition  to  being  esteemed 
the  greatest  beauty  of  California,  was  the  daughter  of 


B^l 


80 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


one  of  the  most  prominent  Spanish  gentlemen.  Stearns 
accumulated  a  considerable  fortune  during  his  time,  and 
a  great  deal  of  it  was  obtained  through  trading  gold  from 
the  Indians. 

In  regard  to  the  cargo  of  gold  which  Robinson  took  to 
Philadelphia  in  184"2,  there  exists  a  document,  represent- 
ing the  certificate  of  deposit  at  the  mint,  and  this  inter- 
esting paper  may  still  be  found  among  the  archives  in 
the  Pioneers'  Hall  in  San  Francisco. 

When  the  ([uestion  is  asked  how  the  fact  of  the 
presence  of  gold  could  b^  withheld  from  the  outer 
world  for  so  lonir,  tlie  answer  suii;(>'ests  itself,  that  the 
secret  was  ke])t  through  the  efforts  of  the   priesthood. 

This  particular  matter  has  been  al)ly  discussed  by  Cap- 
tain W.  H.  Thomas,  president  of  the  New  England 
Society  of  California  Pioneers,  who  paid  his  first  visit  to 
California  as  early  as  1843.  In  a  letter  addressed  to 
the  BosTOX  Herald  the  Captain  writes  as  follows: 

"This  supremacy  was  at  its  highest  in  17 Go,  when 
from  the  missions  in  San  Diego  a  chain  of  twenty-four 
missions  was  extended  northward,  Junipero  Serra  was 
Priest-President  of  all  the  missions  in  California,  and 
was  an  intelHgent,  persevering,  enterprising  man.  He 
was  not  only  instrumental  in  founding  mission  after  mis- 
sion, but  he  added  to  the  herds  thousands  of  sheep  and 
cattle. 

"I  have  been  six  times  to  California  and  have  talked 
with  priests  of  many  nationalities — Mexican,  Spanish, 
Irish  and  American — and  I  am  confident,  from  what  they 
say  that  Junipero  Serra  knew  about  the  gold  ;  but  he 
was  a  simjcular  character,  and  ruled  with  a  hand  of  steel, 
so  that  gold  was  a  word  that  no  one  dared  to  utter.  He 
had  the  history  of  Peru  and  other  foreign  countries  in 
his  mind,  and  he  knew   that   an  influx  of  gold-hunters 


I 


■4 


ho 

;oel, 

He 

s  in 

ters 


I 

I 


I  '! 


1 


o2 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


!   1 


meant  terror  and  destruction  and    the  failure  of  all  his 
great  plans. 

"It  is  claimed  that  the  first  discoveries  were  in  1848, 
when  the  whole  world  was  turned  topsy-turvy  with  the 
astonishing  news.  1,  myself,  was  in  California  in  1843, 
and  stayed  there  three  years,  and  I. can  positively  say 
that  gold  was  known  here  then,  for  I  saw  it  in  Monte- 
rey. On  Sundays  the  Indians  would  come  into  town, 
naked  except  for  a  cloth  around  their  loins,  and  exchange 
a  little  pinch  of  gold  for  a  drink  of  arguadiente  or  na 
tive  rum.  No  one  knew  where  they  got  the  gold,  hut 
sometimes  they  would  have  several  dollars'  worth  of  the 
precious  dust.  This  was  an  old  custom,  i'or  at  Mission 
Carmel  I  interviewed,  through  an  interpreter,  an  aged 
Indian,  who  said  that  when  he  was  a  hoy  gold  was 
found  in  the  mountains  and  rivers  round  about,  and  the 
natives  would  wash  out  a  ])anful  in  order  to  get  a  good 
drunk  on  Sunday,  which  Christian  Indians  were  forbidden 
to  do  He  thouu'ht  that  there  was  still  i>old  in  the  nioun- 
tains,  but  he  was  so  old  that  he  had  forojotten  where  it 
was. 

"In  1844  Andres  Castillero,  the  same  person  who 
afterward  discovered  the  New  Almaden  quicksilver 
mine  in  Santa  Clara  county,  while  traveling  from  Los 
Angeles  to  Monterey,  found  near  the  Santa  Clara  river 
a  great  number  of  water- worn  pebbles,  which  he  gathered 
up  and  carried  with  him  to  Santa  Barbara.  He  there 
exhibited  them,  said  they  were  a  peculiar  species  of  iron 
pyrites  and  declared  that,  according  to  Mexican  miners, 
wherever  they  were  found  there  was  a  likelihood  of  gold 
being  also  found.  A  ranchero  named  Francisco  Lopez, 
who  was  living  on  the  Piru  creek — a  branch  of  the 
Santa  Clara  river — but  who  happened  at  the  time  to  be 
at  Santa  Barbara,  heard  Castillero's  statements  and  ex- 


I 


I 


3 


f 

"^ 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


33 


aiiiined  his  speeitnens.  Some  months  afterward,  havintr 
returned  home,  he  went  out  to  search  for  strayed  cattle. 
At  noon,  when  he  dismounted  from  his  horse  for  the 
purpose  of  resting,  he  observed  a  few  wild  onions  grow- 
in<f  near  where  he  lay.  He  pulled  them  up  and  in  so 
doino"  noticed  the  same  kind  of  pebbles  as  those  to  which 
Castillero  had  called  his  attention.  Remembering  what 
Castillero  had  said  about  them  he  took  up  a  handful  of 
earth  and  upon  carefully  examining  it  discovered  gold.  ■ 
The  news  of  this  discovery,  at  the  place  which  was 
called  San  Francisquito,  about  thirty-five  miles  north- 
east of  Los  Angeles,  soon  spread.  In  a  few  weeks  a 
great  many  persons  were  engaged  in  washing  and  winnow- 
in<r  the  sands  and  earth  in  search  of  crold. 

"The  auriferous  fields  were  found  to  extend  from  a 
point  on  the  Santa  Clara  river  about  fifteen  or  twenty 
n\iles  from  its  mouth  over  all  the  country  drained  by  its 
upper  waters,  and  thence  easterly  to  Mount  San  Bernar- 
dino. 

"On  May  14th,  1843,  Alvardo  wrote  to  the  Prefect  of 
the  district,  reproving  him  for  not  having  given  official 
notice  of  the  discovery,  and  directing  him  to  gather  and 
forward  an  account  of  all  circumstances  of  interest  relat- 
ing to  the  gold,  for  transmission  to  the  Supreme  Govern- 
ment. 

"From  that  time  to  the  present  day  there  has  been 
more  or  less  working  of  these  mines,  but  no  places  of  very 
great  richness  have  been  found,  and  none  to  compare 
with  those  afterward  discovered  on  the  tributaries  of  the 
Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin." 

The  reader  will  no  doubt  pardon  my  deviating  from 
the  straight  narrative,  which  I  will  now  resume,  but  the 
matter  presented  in  Captain  Thomas'  letter  seems  to  me 
well  worth  quoting.     On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  Octo- 


1 


m 


I'  ll 


84 


HUNTING   FOR   GOI.D 


ii  >! 


^ii 


ber,  we  assonibled  at  the  spring  and  liad  l)rc!akfast,  and 
then  a  consultation  took  place  ainonijf  some  of  us,  as  to 
who  should  join  the  expedition,  and  who  should  stay 
behind. 

The  reason  for  this  was  that  there  were  about  forty 
Kanakas,  who  had  worked  with  the  colored  men  at  my 
camp,  and  who  now  wanted  to  join  us.  But  as  they 
had  neither  money  nor  rations,  they  expected  to  live  on 
our  provisions  during  our  prospectinj^  tour,  and  as  we 
did  not  propose  to  make  pre-arrangements  for  a  famine 
in  camp,  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Kanakas 
must  stay  behind.  I  therefore  told  them  that  if  they 
intended  to  come  with  us,  they  must  look  out  for 
themselves,  as  we  could  not  spare  them  any  provisions, 
neither  did  we  know  where  we  were  sjfoinyj,  nor  when 
we  should  return,  and  our  chances  of  starvation  were 
quite  as  good  as  our  chances  of  success. 

This  decided  the  matter  and  limited  our  company  to 
two  white  men,  including  myself,  a  white  boy  named 
Michael  Duvarney,  who  proved  himself  a  little  hero,  and 
seven  colored  men.  I  soon  perceived  that  my  Cauca- 
sian companion — I  mean  the  adult — was  not  the  kind 
of  person  to  do  any  good  in  the  wilds  of  the  mountains. 
I  think  the  poor  fellow  was  from  Michigan,  and  he  was 
one  of  the  most  dejected  looking  objects  I  ever  beheld. 
I  first  thousi'ht  that  he  was  love-sick,  but  when  I  saw 
him  spending  his  evenings  at  the  camp-fire  swallowing 
Brandreth's  pills  as  quickly  as  a  chicken  would  eat 
dough,  I  concluded  that  it  was  his  stomach,  and  not 
his  heart  which  was  out  of  order.  At  all  events,  his 
presence  was  a  decided  damper  on  the  whole  company, 
with  his  melancholy  appearance,  his  pills  and  his  spleen. 
I  soon  discovered  that  the  rest  thouofht  with  me,  that 
our  Michigan  man  was  not  a  fit  subject  for  our  company, 


k 


'€■ 


HUNTING    KOR    OOIj:) 


;i5 


aiul  wIr'11  we  came  to  tlio  Slate  Ranijfo,  I  advised 
him  to  return,  A  few  words  al)out  the  liardsliips  tliat 
awaited  us,  the  cliances  of  bein^  torn  to  pieces  by  griz- 
zlies, and  other  minor  matters,  which  might  impede  our 
march  to  success,  soon  persuaded  our  friend,  in  future, 
to  swallow  his  pills  in  more  congenial  surroundings,  and 
he  returned,  to  the  evident  joy  of  all  concerned. 

While  we  were  camped  at  Slate  Ilange,  one  of  our 
men  went  back  for  a  Kanaka  and  an  Indian.  The  Ka 
naka  he  returned  with,  was  Jim  Crow,  whose  name  still 
lives  in  those  regions,  and  of  whom  I  shall  have  more 
to  say  later  on.  After  his  arrival  we  nK)ved  to  the 
camp  of  *'Cut-Eye"  Foster,  whom  I  now  mot  for  the 
first  time,  and  bought  and  distributed  a  supply  of  Hour. 
Fluster's  camp  was  then  close  to  ours,  in  what  was  then 
known  as  Oak  Valley,  and  I  tried  my  best  to  get  all 
possible  information  from  him.  He  seemed  to  think 
that  prospects,  in  the  comparatively  unexplored  regions, 
were  good,  but  held  that  it  was  now  too  late  in  the 
season  to  venture  so  far  into  the  mountains,  and  as  a 
matter  of  fact,  we  saw  several  white  men  returning.  I 
felt  sure  that  had  my  companions  belonged  to  the  same 
race,  they  would  not  have  desired  to  go  'till  spring,  but 
as  it  w^as,  we  were  all  determined  to  push  on,  and  chose 
our  route,  not  along  the  river  bank,  as  "Cut  Eye"  ad- 
vised, but  across  the  ridge  by  way  of  the  present  eleva- 
tion of  the  Mountain  House. 

I  have  a  lively  recollection  of  getting  ready  to  go, 
when  some  of  our  men  undertook  to  clean  our  fire-arms. 
They  took  them  all  to  pieces,  and  having  made  a  roar- 
ing fire,  placed  them  upon  it.  Many  of  the  barrels  were 
charged,  and  as  they  became  heated  they  began  to  go 
off,  and  a  running  fire  was  ke})t  up  for  sometime.  Shot 
and  bullets  were  flying  in  all  directions,  and  everybody 


1 


80 


HUNTING    FOR    COLD 


I 


liuHteiicd  to  take  shelter  bi'liind  tho  trees.  I  was  just 
retiiniiii</  through  the  woods,  and  heariiiL?  tlie  fusilhide, 
(|uickened  my  pace  to  see  wliat  the  racket  was  about, 
when  I  was  suddeidv  lialted  hv  niv  own  men,  who 
shouted  to  me  to  keep  behind  tlie  trees.  For  a  while  I 
was  at  a  loss  to  understand  the  situation,  but  wluui  I 
realized  it,  I  could  not  help  .smilin<r,  althouii^h  I  made  it 
understood  that  in  future  we  would  clean  our  fire-arms 
in  a  somewhat  difiorent  manner. 

We  bade  ^ood  bye  to  "Cut-Eye,"  and  made  for  the 
wilderness  with  the  winter  close  at  hand,  but  we  relied 
upon  our  courage,  our  determination  and  our  physical 
strength. 


w 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Through  tho  Woods — Meeting  Two  (IrizzlieH — Across  the  River  in 
u  Hurry — McNiiir's  iHhind — Tho  C'olor  of  Gold— Over  th(* 
llidge — We  Strike  tho  lliver — A  Noino  in  tho  BuhIioh — Hound 
tho  Point — A  Scene  that  Charmed  Us — The  Forks  at  Last — 
Sullen  Miners — IVIoving  Camp — Mules  on  tho  Hillside— Camp- 
ed on  the  Yuba — Reminiscences  of  Philo  Haven. 

Wg  had  not  gone  very  far,  when  we  came  upon  two 
small  trees,  whieh  had  been  hlazed  to  indicate  the  road 
to  the  river  at  Goodyear's  Bar,  hut  we  did  not  care  to 
start  at  this  })oint  and  so  kept  up  the  divide,  until  we 
reached  a  place  where  now  stands  Galloway's  Ranch. 
Here  we  made  a  halt  and  held  a  consultation  as  to  how 
to  apprt)ach  the  river.  Our  journey  resumed,  we  struck 
a  l)lind  trail,  which  left  us  in  the  midst  of  the  thicket, 
hut  we  did  not  care  to  go  back,  and  made  our  way 
through  the  chapparal,  until  at  last  we  reached  the  top 
ot  the  ridge,  which  separates  the  two  canyons,  later 
known  as  Jim  Crow  and  Secret  Canyons.  No  sooner 
had  we  reached  this  altitude,  than  we  met  with  an 
adventure  which  rather  startled  us.  As  our  mules 

Were  jogging  along,  carrying  the  pack,  and  we  came 
after,  puffing  and  blowing  with  the  exertions  of  the 
ascent,  a  grizzly  incjuisitively  approached  the  animals 
and  so  scared  them  that  they  started  down  the  hillside 
at  a  rate  which  would  have  done  credit  to  any  equine 
racer,  and  for  awhile  we  wondered  whether  we  should 
ever  have  the  good  luck  to  see  our  frying  pans,  rockers 
and  the  rest  of  the  outfit  again.  I  did  not  see  the  bear, 
and  up  to  that  time  considered  myself  somewhat   un- 

87 


38 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


I 


III 


fortunate  in  regard  to  seeing  the  animal  so  characteristic 
of  CaHfornia,  for  he  always  got  out  of  the  way  before  I 
could  clap  eyes  on  him,  even  when  he  succeeded  in 
scaring  one  of  the  company.  One  night  however,  as  I 
lay  rolled  up  in  my  blankets  and  soutid  asleep,  I  was 


LOOKING   FOR    THE   COLOR 


roused  by  the  warm  breath  of  a  grizzly,  who  quickly 
decamped  when  I  made  a  sudden  motion,  and  he  found 
that  the  place  v^as  already  occupied.  But  I  was  not 
lono'  to  remain  without  an  introduction  to  the  Kinor  of 
the  California  forest. 


'j 


I 


-J) 
1 


i 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


39 


When  we  had  pulled  ourselves  together  after  the 
scare,  and  quieted  the  frightened  mules,  we  started  down 
the  hill  aiM'  ^iiuately  made  our  camp  at  a  point  which 
has  since  been  called  McNair's  Island.  Here  some  of 
the  company  tried  a  pan  or  two  of  dirt,  looking  for  the 
color,  but  it  proved  pretty  hard  to  raise. 

Meanwhile,  three  of  us  took  a  stroll  up  the  river  to 
explore  the  locality,  and  in  sauntering  back  to  camp,  we 
had  the  second  adventure  of  the  day.  Charley  Wilkins, 
who  was  walking  a  little  ahead,  suddenly  stopped,  and 
})ointing  to  a  moving  mass  of  something  which  was 
coming  forwai'd  from  the  brush,  exclaimed:  "What  is 
that?"  But  he  did  not  wait  for  an  answer,  for  we  all 
simultaneously  perceived  that  the  unshapely  object  was 
a  huge  grizzly,  who  came  to  bid  us  welcome.  Never  did 
three  men  vacate  the  space  they  occupied  more  quickly 
than  we  did.  We  fairly  flew  towards  the  river  and 
plunged  in,  making  for  the  opposite  shore  at  full  speed. 

The  bank  was  high  and  steep,  and  in  our  endeavors  to 
climb  up  by  holding  on  to  grass  or  loose  rocks,  we  fell 
backwards  into  the  water  several  times,  splashing  about 
like  young  ducks  and  never  even  daring  to  look  'round. 
When  we  ultimately  got  ashore  there  was  not  a  sign  of 
the  enemy,  who  evidently  had  never  attempted  to  pur- 
sue us. 

We  now  made  for  our  camp,  and  arming  ourselves 
with  the  whole  arsenal  at  our  command,  all  hands  march- 
ed out  to  kill  the  bear,  but  he  had  gone,  leaving  nothing 
but  his  track.  From  that  day  henceforth  however  I 
was  satisfied  that  I  liad  seen  a  grizzly,  and  no  mistake 
about  it. 

As  soon  as  we  had  returned  from  our  fruitless  pursuit 
some  of  the  company  went  across  the  river  to  a  point 
opposite  Secret  Canyon,  where  some   work  had  already 


40 


HUNTING   FOR  GOI.D 


* 


f 


in 


1  i 


boeri  done,  and  here  we  found  the  first  gold  since  leaving 
Builard's  Bar.  We  moved  our  camp  across  to  the  flat 
and  went  prospecting  up  and  down  the  river.  In  some 
iew  places  we  found  gold,  but  not  in  any  quantity,  as  it 
never  ran  over  a  dollar  to  the  pan.  The  most  gold  seemed 
to  be  at  Negro  Bar,  situated  a  short  distance  from  Omit's 
Flat,  but,  seeing  that  the  locality  would  not  pan  out 
satisfactorily,  we  decided  to  strike  camp  and  look  for 
the  North  Fork.  Of  this  we  had  heard  various  reports 
and,  thinking  that  the  best  way  to  find  it  was  by  going 
North,  we  steered  our  course  up  the  hill  in  that  di- 
rection, leaving  McNair's  Island  behind  us.  It  took  us 
nearly  half  a  day  to  reach  the  top  of  the  steep  hill,  and 
on  our  arrival  there  a  poor  prospect  greeted  us,  for,  al- 
though we  thought  we  could  see  from  the  lay  of  the 
land,  where  the  North  Fork  must  be,  it  was  by  no 
means  clear  to  us  how  to  get  there.  For  the  purpose 
of  finding  water  and  also  tlie  best  way  of  getting  down 
this  dry  and  barren  ridge,  we  now  unpacked  our  traps, 
and,  dividing  ourselves  into  two  parties,  we  went  about 
reconnoitering  the  country.  I,  together  with  tliree 
others,  followed  the  ridge,  in  what  I  took  to  be  the  di- 
rection of  the  Forks,  and  when  we  came  to  the  rocky 
point  above  Breyfogle  Flat,  we  suddenly  beheld  the 
river  shining  before  us  in  the  sunliiijht.  Ah  me,  how 
pleased  we  were  at  that  sight !  We  now  knew  tliat  our 
judgment  had  been  correct,  and  we  hastened  down  to 
the  stream  and  quenched  our  thirst  in  the  rippling  waters. 

Two  of  the  men  wanted  to  go  back  at  once,  but 
Albert  and  I  were  determined  to  proceed,  and  leaving 
them  behind,  we  kept  on  down  the  river.  W^e  had  not 
gone  far,  however,  when  we  were  overtaken  by  our  com- 
panions. 

They  had  heard  some  mysterious  sound  in  the  bushes 


H 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


41 


beliind  them,  and  the  experiences  of  the  day  had  made 
them  nervous.  They  were  only  too  pleased  to  join  us 
ag-ain,  and  so  we  went  along  the  river  together,  until  we 
came  to  the  first  island  above  the  Forks,  when  they 
once  more  insisted  on  returning.  I  then  told  them  that 
if  they  would  only  go  round  the  next  point  with  me,  I 
would  go  back  at  once,  if  nothing  particular  came  in 
view  which  demanded  our  attention,  and  to  this  they 
consented. 

I  have  often  thcmght  since  how  the  curtain  of  fate 
may  be  likened  to  the  thinnest  fabric  of  gauze,  as  it 
severs  us  from  circumstances  or  conditions,  with  which 
we  are  united  the  moment  it  rises.  Had  those  men 
refused  to  listen  to  me  that  day,  and  prevailed  upon  me 
to  turn  back  before  rounding  that  point,  who  can  tell 
what  would  have  been  my  lot  in  after  life  ?  It  was  the 
traversing  of  those  few  hundred  yards  which  decided  so 
nmch  that  afterwards  became  of  interest  to  me,  and 
gave  me  for  many  years  to  come,  friends,  influence,  even 
renown,  and  to-day,  notwithstanding  bitter  experiences, 
many  cherished  memories. 

As  we  rounded  the  point  we  beheld  the  Forks,  the 
place  of  which  we  were  in  search,  and  which  afterwards 
received  the  name  of  Downieville,  while  it  became  one 
of  the  most  prominent  points  in  the  history  of  the  Gold- 
en Age  of  California. 

The  scene  that  burst  upon  us  was  one  of  marvelous 
beauty,  and  after  these  many  years  it  still  lies  before  me 
like  a  lovely  panorama,  in  my  recollection  of  the  moment 
when  I  first  saw  it.  The  silence  of  the  woods  was 
bioken  only  by  the  rushing  of  the  meeting  currents  below 
and  the  sou";hinof  of  the  breeze  throui>h  the  foliai^e.  The 
sun  was  in  the  western  sky,  causing  a  variation  of  light 
and  shadow  to  fall  upon  the  landscape,  which  was  ex- 


42 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


i 


ceetlingly  pleasing.  The  hillsides  were  covered  with 
oaks,  bending  their  crooked  branches  in  phantastic  forms, 
while  here  and  there  a  mighty  pine  towered  above  them, 
and  tall  willows  waved  their  slender  branches,  as  it  were, 
nodding  us  a  welcome.  They  grew  along  the  branch 
of  the  North  Fork,  where  now  stands  the  Cravcroft 
building,  and  on  the  present  site  of  the  St.  Charles  Hotel 
stood  a  cluster  of  pines.  Down  on  the  very  brink  of 
the  river  grew  a  beautiful  ijjrove  of  Fir  trees,  and  as  we 

So  ' 

approached,  a  frightened  deer  ran  from  the  thicket  and 
made  for  the  woods.  Near  a  little  spring,  which  bubbled 
up  and  made  the  surroundings  look  fresh  and  verdant, 
stood  a  few  pieces  of  bark  on  end—  the  only  sign  that 
human  foot  had  ever  trod  this  region,  and  further  indi- 
cating that  here  at  some  previous  time  the  Indians  had 
camped. 

Add  to  this  the  waters  leaping  over  rock  and  bowlders, 
and  the  clear  azure  sky  stretching  like  a  canopy  over 
the  whole  landscape,  and  you  have  the  picture,  as  far  as 
I  can  describe  it,  that  1  first  beheld,  when  I  approached 
the  Forks. 

When  we  came  to  the  Junction  of  the  two  streams 
and  made  our  observations,  Albert  pointed  out  to  me 
the  fact  that  the  water  in  the  North  Fork  was  not  so 
clear  as  that  in  its  sister  branch.  There  could  be  but 
one  explanation  of  this  phenomenon — that  men  were  at 
work  somewhere  above,  "Hunting  For  Gold."  None  were 
now  inclined  to  return.  Curiosity  and  suspense  got  the 
better  of  reluctance  and  we  started  up  the  stream  to  ex- 
plore, 

After  tramping  a  considerable  distance  we  found  that 
our  conclusions  had  been  right.  We  heard  voices  and 
the  clanging  of  tools,  and  presently  came  upon  a  company 
of  three  men,  who  were  at  work  on  a  little  bar,  just  below 


I 


■If 


:1 
I 


HUNTING   FOR  GOI<D 


4d 


the  Bluebanks.  The  men  seemed  considerably  surprised 
to  see  us,  and  as  it  were,  at  once,  instinctively  tried 
to  hide  what  gold  they  had  in  their  pan,  but  one  of  our 
boys  caught  sight  of  it  nevertheless,  and  thus  we  were 
assured,  not  only  that  there  was  gold  in  that  location, 
but  also  that  it  was  quite  different  looking  from  what 
we  had  seen  at  Bullard's  Bar. 

I  tried  to  get  into  conversation  with  the  three  men, 
but  it  was  of  no  avail.  When  I  asked  them  about  the 
diggings,  they  would  answer  me,  **yes;"  "no;"  "dunno;" 
"can't  say,"  or  pretend  not  to  understand  me  at  all,  and 
after  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  spent  in  interrogations,  I  was 
no  wiser  than  when  I  first  started.  I  took  a  drink  of 
water,  and  lighting  my  pipe,  tried  them  on  a  different 
lay. 

"  What  chance  is  there  to  get  a  claim  here  ?  "  I  asked. 
It  seemed  that  I  had  struck  the  keynote  of  conversation 
with  them,  for  they  at  once  became  more  communicative. 
"The  chances  are  slim,"  they  said,  but  they  had  a 
claim  they  would  sell,  and  they  went  on  using  their  best 
powers  of  oratory  in  order  to  induce  us  to  strike  a  bar- 
gain, there  and  then,  something  which,  however,  none 
of  us  would  think  of  doing.  These  three  men  were 
working  there  in  one  crevice,  one  digging,  another 
carrymg  dirt  and  the  third  working  the  rocker,  and, 
from  their  manner  of  speech,  there  was  every  indication 
that  they  verily  believed  that  when  that  crevice  was 
worked  out,  there  was  no  more  gold  to  be  found  in  Cal- 
ifornia. 

But  their  sullenness  and  reticence  did  not  discourage 
us  in  the  least.  We  knew  that  if  there  was  anything 
to  be  had  in  these  quarters,  we  had  the  right  kind  of 
company  for  locating  it,  and  we  determined  before  many 
days  to  make  our  new  neighbors  aware  of  the  fact.      So 


44 


HUNTING    FOR   GOI.D 


we  left  them  to  themselves  and  returned  to  our  camp  to 
report  progress,  and  there  was  much  rejoicing  that  eve- 


ning. 


WORK  [NO   THE    ROCKER 


The  next  morning  wo  were  up  bright  and  early,  and 
struck  camp  to  remove  to  the  Forks.  The  trail  was  bad, 
and  every  now  and  then  a  mule  would  slide  down  the 
declivity,  sometimes  a  hundred  feet  or  more.  In  order 
to  keep  them  from  going  clear  to  the  bottom  we  had  to 
use  the  long  ropes,  used  for  tying  them  up  with  at 
night.  We  carried  the  one  end  coiled  up  in  our  hands, 
the  mule  being  at  the  other  end,  and  when  the  animal 
seemed  likely  to  go  too  far  down  the  hill,  we  slewed 
him  head  up,  or,  in  sailor  parlance,  headed  him  to  the 
wind.     We  had  quite  a  hard  time  of  it  getting  along  in 


HUNTING  FOR   GOLD 


45 


I 


-A 

I 


Si 

•"•il 


a 


this  rashion,  moreover  as  it  took  us  two  days  and  one 
iiii^dit  to  travel  from  McNair's  Island  to  the  F"orks,  and 
all  the  time  without  water.  How  different  now,  when 
the  same  journey  can  be  made  in  one  brief  hour,  but 
such  are  the  changes  wrought  by  time. 

As  soon  as  the  thirsty  nmles  saw  the  water  in  the 
river  below,  there  was  no  more  necessity  for  driving 
them.  They  scampered  off  on  their  own  account,  and 
never  stopped  till  they  stood  in  the  water,  drinking  it  in 
long,  refreshing  draughts.  We  unpacked  on  Jersey  Flat, 
and  I  spent  my  first  night  at  the  Forks  of  the  Yuba. 

In  the  following  pages  I  shall  have  considerable  to 
say  about  this  spot  and  its  surroundings,  but,  as  I  write 
of  my  arrival  there,  I  am  put  in  mind  of  one  of  the  very 
first  men  I  met  in  this  locality,  whom  I  have  known  in 
after  life  as  a  friend  and  a  gentlemen.  This  man  is  Mr. 
Philo  Haven. 

Mr.  Haven  was  round  those  qi^arters  in  the  early 
part  of '51.  Many  years  after  he  reminded  me  of  the 
Indian  shelter,  referred  to,  and  agreed  with  me  that 
when  I  came  on  the  ground,  there  was  no  other  camp 
at  the  Forks.  He  told  me  that  when  he  arrived  at 
the  South  Fork  he  came  upon  a  man  skinning  a  deer, 
and  being  hungry,  offered  him  any  price  for  a  few 
]i()unds  of  the  meat;  but  the  fellow  would  not  sell  any, 
not  even  when  he  was  offered  pound  for  pound — gold 
for  venison.  Mr.  Haven  did  not  know  that  I  was  at 
the  Forks  and  had  provisions,  and  when  he  made  up 
his  mind  to  go  up  that  way,  he  paid  a  fellow  $160  for 
a  lot  of  half-decayed  goods,  which  had  been  brought  to 
Goodyear's  Bar  from  a  deserted  mining  store.  The 
price  was  four  dollars  per  pound  all  round,  including 
hams,  ffour,. nails,  tobacco  and  other  necessaries,  but  the 
edibles  were  hardly  fit  for  eating.     When  he  came  ta 


46 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


•ft  'f  < 


"'ii 


|i;; 


\  i' 


my  camp,  we  were  already  well  settled  and  kept  a  sort 
of  open  bouse  for  all  travelers,  who  were  welcome 
to  share  anything  with  us,  which  we  had  to  eat. 
Charlev  Wilkins  and  Albert  Callis,  the  two  colored 
men,  would  cook  for  them  and  make  them  feel  at  home, 
and  as  far  back  as  those  early  days  I  had  become  known 
as  Major  Downie,  and  travelers  in  search  of  shelter  or 
relief  were  often  told  to  go  to  Major  Downie's  cabin. 

One  thing  I  feel  called  upon  to  discuss  here  to  some 
extent — the  first  discovery  of  gold  at  the  Forks.  I  am 
aware  that  in  one  history  of  California,  it  is  claimed 
that  Frank  Anderson  was  the  original  discoverer,  where- 
as I  claim  that  the  precious  metal  was  first  unearthed 
by  our  company,  and  in  this,  Mr.  Haven  agrees  with 
me,  in  as  much  as  he  considers  it  a  mistake  to  give  the 
honor  to  Anderson.  It  is  at  all  events  a  fact  that  this 
man  did  not  arrive  at  the  flat  till  after  we  had  been 
there  for  some  time.  He,  and  another  man  named 
Jack  Culton,  came  along  with  Mr.  Haven  and  were 
engaged  by  him  to  work  a  small,  rich  bar,  for  which 
they  were  paid  fifty  dollars  per  day,  but  the  party  did 
not  leave  Bullard's  Bar  for  the  Forks,  till  the  9th  of 
January, '51.  The  bar  that  Mr.  Haven  was  workino-, 
panned  out  well,  for  after  a  comparatively  short  stay, 
the  company — four  in  number — left  with  130  pounds  of 
Gold.  For  my  own  part,  I  merely  claim  that  we  were 
the  first  white  men  who  took  out  gold  at  the  Forks, 
and  I  firmly  believe  that  the  Indians  were  aware  of  its 
presence  there  long,  before  our  arrival. 


if! 


CHAPTER  V. 

Down  to  Business — A  Fish  Story — Lead  Weights  and  Brass 
Weights — Ore  vicing — Breyfogle  Flat — A  Mule  in  a  Hornet's 
Nest — Mamoo  the  Egyptian — A  Negro  from  Virginia — Rich 
Finds — Treacherous  Friends — Mr.  John  Potter — Flour  Worth 
More  Than  Gold — A  Very  Sick  Man — On  the  Site  of  Downie- 
ville. 

I  have  remarked  in  the  previous  chapter  that  I  relied 
upon  mycompany  for  finding  gold  in  these  environments, 
if  gold  were  to  be  found.  I  knew  that  as  prospectors 
wc  had  the  right  kind  of  men  in  our  crowd,  and  as  will 
be  seen,  we  soon  had  an  opportunity  to  astonish  our 
sulky  neighbors. 

First  of  all  we  arranged  matters  so  as  to  operate 
systematically.  One  man  was  to  keep  camp,  another  to 
look  after  the  mules,  and  the  rest  went  in  twos  or  threes 
up  and  down  the  river  in  search  of  patches,  which 
would  be  worth  working.  We  made  it  a  provision  that 
everyone  should  have  whatever  he  happened  to  get  in- 
to his  pan.  Anyone,  who  chose  to  do  so,  might  go 
alone,  but  everybody  had  to  report  his  day's  doings  in 
camp  at  night.  It  was  also  made  a  rule  that  whoever 
discovered  any  rich  bar  should  have  the  first  choice  of 
the  ground,  and  I  may  say  that  these  regulations  were 
strictly  adhered  to  and  found  to  be  of  great  common 
advantage.  They  prevented  a  good  deal  of  underhand 
work  and  gjave  us  all  a  fair  chance  in  the  undertakinof, 
for  without  them,  two  men,  for  instance,  might  go  out 
together,  and  if  they  made  a  find,  divide  up  between 
them,  and  report  no  progress.  a 


•)[      \\ 


48 


HUNTIN'd    l'"OR    GOLD 


lltliiH;; 


In  speaking  of  our  start  at  tlie  Forks,  I  ain  reminded 

of  what  my  reader  will  no  doubt  call  a  fish  story        It 

is;  but  it  is  nev^ertheless  a  true  one,  and  let  this  he  said 

with  all  due  deference  to  any    narrator    of  |)iscatorial 

adventure.       While  we  were  cain[)ed  on  Jersey   Flat, 

Jiin  Crow  causjfht  a  monster  salmon,    weighin«>^    nearly 

fourteen  pounds.     We  boiled  the  fish  in  the  camp  kettle, 

and  afterwards,  when  we  examined  the  water,  we  found 

gold   at    the    bottom    of  it.       Truly   those    have    been 

appropriately  called: 

"The  days  of  old— 
The  days  of  Gold." 

We  had  a  somewhat  varied  experience  for  some  time 
after  our  arrival  in  these  parts.  We  discovered  a 
small  bar  at  the  lower  end  of  Zumwalt  Flat,  which  show- 
ed a  good  prospect,  and  therefore  moved  our  camp  u[) 
that  way.  It  should  be  born  in  mind  that  I  am  calling 
many  of  these  places  by  the  names  they  received  after 
my  first  stay  there  in  '49.  On  Zumwalt  Flat  we  went  to 
work  with  a  rocker,  and  the  first  day  washed  out  about 
twelve  ounces.  As  this  looked  very  encouraging,  we 
stayed  here,  till   we    considered  the   bar   worked   out. 

While  in  this  vicinity  I  dug  a  hole  near  a  small  bar 
that  was  afterwards  named  Tin-cup  Diggings,  and  found 
it  would  pay  about  one  dollar  to  the  pan.  For  some 
time  I  worked  by  myself,  but  as  I  could  get  nobody  to 
help  me,  I  abandoned  it. 

We  had  some  difficulty  in  weighing  our  gold.  Some 
claimed  to  be  making  from  thirteen  to  fourteen  ounces 
a  day,  crevicing  in  the  banks,  but  this  measure  was 
obtained  by  means  of  a  lead  weight,  of  which  Jack 
Smith  used  to  say  with  much  indignation,  that  it  was 
fit  only  for  killing  dogs  with.  We  then  started  regu- 
lating our  weights  and  did  that  by  means  ofahalf-ounco 


HUNTING    FOR    GOI.D 


49 


brass  weight.  Wo  ultimately  succeeded  in  gettinir, 

what  we  took  to  be  a  correct  eight-ounce  weight,  and 
this  was  brought  into  requisition  almost  every  day,  for 
(juite  a  while. 

We  returned  to  the  Forks  above,  and  worked  on  a 
bar  there,  until  we  thought  that  it  was  worked  out,  but 
afterwards  found  gold  all  along  the  banks,  sometimes 
several  hundred  dollars  within  the  short  space  of  a  few 
hours,  very  seldom  using  even  a  shovel.  Our  principal 
mining  implements  consisted  of  a  butcher's  knife,  a  tin 
pan  and  a  crowbar.  Whenever  wg  saw  a  place  that 
looked  promising,  we  would  cross  the  river  on  the  rocks, 
if  it  happened  to  be  on  the  opposite  side,  and  delving 
into  the  crevice,  dig  out  what  there  was  in  it,  so  quickly 
that  we  fairly  astonished  our  sulky  neighbors,  who  a  few 
days  before  had  taken  us  for  innocents  in  the  wilderness. 

Our  principal  grievance  when  crevicing,  was  the 
scarcity  of  dirt,  which  often  caused  us  great  disappoint- 
ments, for  just  as  our  hopes  had  been  raised  to  the 
highest  pitch  of  anticipation,  the  rich  spot  would  give 
out,  and  after  spooning  and  scraping  for  a  while,  we 
would  realize  that  we  were  hunting  a  phantom  treasure. 

The  season  was  now  far  advanced,  and  it  became  a 
matter  of  serious  consideration  whether  we  should  face 
the  winter  in  the  mountains,  or  return  to  less  exposed 
(juarters.  So  we  held  a  consultation  and  ultimately  con- 
cluded to  stay,  provided  we  could  find  a  bar  to  work  on 
and  at  the  same  time  continue  to  lay  in  a  sufficient  sup- 
ply of  provisions.  We  gave  up  the  crevices  and  went  in 
search  of  a  bar  where  plenty  of  dirt  could  be  easily  ob- 
tained. 

Four  of  our  company  went  up  the  South  Fork  to  the 
place  which  was  afterwards  known  as  Breyfogle  Flat, 
a"d  there  found  a  prospect   in  the  south  bank,  which 


1  i'l 


50 


IIUNTINd    I'OK    C.OI.l) 


|l 


I 


they  tliou^lit  would  do  us  tor  the  winter.  We  then  de- 
terndiied  to  move  up  there,  and  i^ot  ready.  1  paid  a 
visit  to  our  iuhospitublo  neighbors,  and  l)oui;ht  froui 
them  a  duof-out  or  burnt-out  rocker,  for  which  I  <jrave 
one  ounce,  and  then  we  set  out  for  our  new  cam[)ing 
ground.  VVe  had  tiie  same  trouble  gettin<»-  our 
nudes  along  the  hillside  as  described  in  a  previous 
chapter,  and  adopted  the  same  tactics  for  keeping 
them  from  sliding  down  to  the  bottom,  as  has  al- 
ready been  mentioned.  My  mule  met  with  an  ac- 
cident which  caused  the  party  both  surprise  and 
merriment  in  our  little  crowd.  The  poor  brute  got 
foul  of  a  hornets'  nest.  Under  normal  conditions 
that  mule  was  as  sedate,  sober-minded,  and  quiet 
a  mule  as  ever  carried  a  pack,  and  as  long  as  I  had 
kr.own  him  he  had  never  attempted  any  pace  outside  a 
walk.  Our  surprise  may,  therefore,  be  easily  imagined, 
when  all  of  a  sudden,  without  any  perceptible  reason, 
he  kicked  up  his  heels  cloudwards,  then  stood  on  his 
tail-end,  and  then  for  a  moment  left  the  alluvial  soil  al- 
toixether  and  humx  between  heaven  and  earth,  and  ulti- 
mutely,  on  reaching  the  latter  once  more,  made  otf  at 
the  pace  of  Tam  'o  Shanter's  famous  mare,  I  saw  ev- 
erything thjit  I  ^-'^d  strapped  on  his  back,  tiy  otf.  Fry- 
ing-pan, blanks  cker,  everything  he  was  carrying 
was  strewr  uhe  course  he  took,  and  for  every  time 
anything  c  ^  otF  the  pack,  he  seemed  to  quicken  his 
pace.  Only  one  fortnate  circumstance  occurred  during 
the  whole  atfair — he  chanced  to  run  in  the  right  direc- 
tion, and  when  we  at  last  caught  up  with  him,  we  were 
still  on  the  right  track,  but  my  rocker  was  smashed  to 
atoms.  When  we  arrived  at  the  bar,  we  found  that  an- 
other party  had  reached  it  cihead  of  us,  and  therefore 
had  the  first  clioice  of  ground.       I  went   to  work    with 


I:: 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


51 


Mo  moo  on  a  portion  of  the  bar,  facino^  the  river  for 
ahout  ten  feet.  This  Muinoo  was  an  Egyptian  and  a 
follower  of  Mahomet,  the  Prophet  of  *'the  only  God." 
He  was  horn  in  Alexandria,  and  was  a  sailor  by  occupa- 
tion. He  came  to  San  Francisco  in  '49,  and  hearing  of 
the  discoveries  made  by  John  Marshall  and  Ca[)tain 
Sutter,  left  the  ship  for  the  mines,  as  did  nearly  every 
sailor  in  those  days.  I  first  met  him  at  Bullard's  Bar, 
where  he  was  in  company  with  the  Kanakas  and  Jim 
Crow,  and  as  he  appeared  to  be  an  ajiparently  good  fel- 
low, I  had  williDgly  admitted  him  to  our  company. 

It  was  on  a  Sunday  evening  when  we  pitched  our 
camp  on  the  new  ground,  and  bright  and  early  Monday 
morning  we  were  ready  for  work.  The  piece  that  had 
been  allotted  to  Albert  Callis,  proved  particularly  rich, 
and  gold  could  be  seen  in  considerable  quaintity  by  sim- 
ply removing  the  dirt  with  the  foot.  As  I  have  said, 
we  arrived  at  our  camp  on  a  Sunday,  but  although 
Albert  kicked  the  dirt  otf  in  sundry  places,  and  saw  the 
yellow  gold,  he  conscientiously  covered  the  metal  up 
again,  as  he  would  not  remove  it  on  the  Sabbath.  He 
came  originally  from  Mathews  County,  Virginia,  and  I 
believe,  was  a  rimaway  slave. 

He  afterwards  settled  in  Downieville,  married  and  had 
quite  a  family,  which  he  supported  partly  by  working 
at  his  trade  as  a  barber.  I  may  state  here  that  none  of 
the  darkies  belonging  to  my  company  (I  mean  those  of 
African  blood), could  have  been  induced  to  work  Sunday, 
the  effect,  no  doubt,  of  early  training.  But  by  and  by 
Jim  Crow  came  along.  His  religious  and  moral  senti- 
ments were  both  far  below  zero,  and  it  did  not  take  him 
long  to  remo\\3  the  "taboo"  from  all  the  gold  he  could 
get  siofht  of. 

On  the  Monday  two  of  us  took  out  seventeen  ounces, 


I  f 


62 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


,;  i" 


on  Tuesday,  twenty-four,  on  Wednesday,  twenty-nine, 
and  early  on  Thursday,  we  had  taken  out  forty  ounces — 
as  much  as  fourteen  in  one  pan.  Mainoo,  who  was 
cookinsj:  breakfast  for  us  when  we  brou«»lit  the  ofold  into 
camp,  h)oked  with  amazement  at  the  treasure,  and  it 
seems  to  me  I  can  yet  hear  him  ejaculate  :  "Dam  place 
worked  out  now !  No  more  gold  I  No  good  ! " 

It  was  now  high  time  for  us  to  send  below  for  provis- 
ions, and  eight  starts  out,  taking  with  them  all  the 
mules.  Jim  Crow  went  with  the  rest,  and  they  all 
intended  to  return  in  a  few  days.  When  I  reflect 
upon  the  day  when  these  men  left  camp,  and  the  days 
that  followed,  it  seems  evident  to  me  that  every  human 
being  must  have  a  mission  to  fulfill  in  this  life,  and 
until  that  is  fulfilled,  death  would  not  dare  overtake 
him.  Tlie  four  of  us  left  in  camp  were,  Albert  Callis, 
Charles  Wilkins,  Michael  Duvarney  and  myself,  and  as 
we  bade  good-bye,  to  the  departing  ones,  we  expected 
that  they  would  speedily  return,  and  little  anticipated 
treachery.  It  became  our  lot  to  wait  in  vain.  For 
many  days  we  looked  in  expectation  towards  the  direc- 
tion from  which  they  should  return,  but  no  one  appeared, 
and  but  for  providential  circumstances  and  individual 
determination  on  our  own  part,  our  bones  would  have 
bleached  in  the  wilderness,  where  we  had  been  left  to 
starve. 

Many  months  had  elapsed,  when  I  again  saw  Jim 
Crow.  Our  next  meeting  was  in  the  following  spring, 
at  Crow  City,  at  the  head  of  Jim  Crow  Canyon  ,as  these 
places  are  now  called.  He  was  in  company  with  a 

number  of  Kanakas,  and  when  I  first  caus^ht  sio;ht  of 
him,  he  was  sitting  face  to  face  with  little  Mike,  who 
was  asking  him  all  sorts  of  questions,  as  to  why  he  did 
not  return  to  our  camp  with  the   mules  and   provisions, 


w 


w 


f 

1 

u 

1    -     ♦] 

'V 

«. 

f 

u 

4 

-.    'h' 

i.M  '  f    I 


5t 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


and  wliat  he  had  been  doing  all  the  time.  The  truth  of 
the  matter  was,  that  Jim  had  never  expected  to  see  us 
alive  again.  He  was  making  his  way  back  with  a 
company  to  the  place  where  he  had  left  us,  to  get  some 
more  of  the  gold,  taking  it  for  granted  that  we  had 
starved  to  death  long  ago,  and  they  had  lost  the  trail. 

Our  meeting  was  accidental  and  more  will  be  said  of 
this  later  on.  The  rest  of  the  boys,  who  w^ent  with  him 
had  gone  on  a  s[  'ee  and  drank  or  gambled  their  dust 
away.  In  those  days  it  was  a  connnon  thing  for  miners, 
to  come  down  to  any  settlement  to  change  their  dust 
for  silver,  often  at  any  price,  just  to  get  coin  enough 
with  vrhich  to  play  poker,  and  my  late  companions  had 
fo:^gotten  all  about  us  over  cards  and  whisky.  Let  me 
say  here  that  I  was  never  a  heavy  drinker.  My  favorite 
liquor,  when  disposed  to  indulge  at  all,  was  wdiisky, 
but  I  never  drank  to  excess,  and  I  never  learned  to 
play  at  cards  during  all  the  years  I  spent  in  the  mines. 

The  four  of  us  went  to  work  with  a  will,  but  soon  the 
rain  set  in,  and  our  prospects  began  to  look  rather  gloomy. 
The  flour  sack  began  to  get  more  precious  than  the  gold 
bag,  and  nobody  came  to  our  rescue,  while  Albert  was 
lying  sick  in  the  camp.  In  this  dilemma  I  made  a  trip 
down  to  the  Forks,  to  see  if  I  could  fall  in  with  anybody 
from  the  bars  below,  or  perhaps  hear  something  of  my 
company.  On  this  excursion  I  met  John  Potter,  and 
told  him  of  the  fix  we  were  m.  Mr.  Potter  said  that  he 
had  a  partner  down  at  Goodj^ear's  Bar,  and  that  they 
would  like  to  winter  up  here,  if  there  was  any  way  of 
getting  provisions  up,  and  we  discussed  the  situation 
together,  and  both  returned  to  our  camp,  where  we 
found  Albert  so  bad  that  he  had  lost  the  use  ofhisleofs, 
while  we  could  now  make  an  over-hand  knot  in  the  flour 
bag.   I  have  often,  afterwards,  in  the  crowded  city,  seen 


^'^ 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


56 


.'Cll 


people  begging  for  a  small  pittance,  with  which  to  buy 
bread,  and  it  has  then  occurred  to  nie  how  strange  the 
reverse  of  that  picture  looks.  •  There  we  were  with  a 
bag  full  of  gold,  anxious  to  pay  dearly  for  anything  that 
would  sustain  life,  with  no  chance  of  purcliasing  even 
the  poorest  meal.  The  situation  was  becoming  desper- 
ate, and  something  had  to  be  done. 

We  then  decided  to  take  Potter  and  his  partner, 
William  Griffith,  into  our  company,  and  as  we  had  given 
up  all  hopes  of  the  return  of  our  men,  it  was  decided 
that  Potter  should  go  down  to  Goodyear's  Bar,  to  make 
arrangements  for  provisions,  while  we  moved  to  the 
Forks,  After  he  had  left  us,  we  started  on  our  journey, 
but  no  one  can  imaofine  what  difficulties  we  had  to  fitrlit 
with.  I  had  found  a  poor,  half-starved  mule  In  the 
woods.  It  had  evidently  strayed  from  some  departed 
company,  and  I  brought  it  into  camp.  On  the  back  of 
this  wretched  animal  we  seated  our  sick  comrade,  and 
packing  our  tra})s  on  our  own  shoulders,  we  made  the 
best  of  it,  while  the  cold  November  rain  continued  to 
fall.  We  crossed  the  river,  where  Craycoft's  mill  was 
afterwards  built,  and  thus  entering"  the  Forks  from  the 
branch,  we  made  a  roaring  fire  and  settled  on  the  site, 
which  w.cS  later  on  called  Downieville.  Our  tent  was 
the  only  one  at  that  time,  as  nobody  else  was  then 
camping  in  the  solitude  of  these  wild  surroundings,  and 
here  we  now  anxiously  awaited  the  arrival  of  John  Potter. 

During  mv  absence  at  Goodvear's  Bar,  which  will  be 
discussed  in  the  following  chapter,  one  of  our  party 
started  building  a  cabin.  The  next  party  to  arrive  was 
a  man  named  Kelly  with  a  company,  and  soon  after 
came  Mr.  S.  Wood  and  his  company.  From  these  lat- 
ter, who  settled  on  Jersev  Flat,  I  tried  in  vain  to  obtain 
some  rations.       Mr.  Wood  had  ixone  back  and  left  a  man 


1 
1 

! 

i 

■■ 

56 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


hi    i 


in  charge  of  his  stores,  and  he  would  not  be  persuaded  to 
part  with  any  of  them,  even  at  exhorbitant  prices,  which 
we  offered.  I  must  state  here  in  justification  of  Mr. 
Wood,  that  he  afterwards  expressed  his  great  regret  at 
this,  and  assured  us  that  had  he,  or  his  partner,  been  on 
the  ground,  we  would  certainly  have  obtained  relief. 
As  it  was,  there  was  nothing  left  for  us  but  "chewing  the 
rag"  and  await  the  return  of  the    absent   John    Potter. 


\ 


% 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Death  of  a  Friend — Audrew  Goodyear — Bone  Soup — At  Sim- 
mons' Camp — Cooking  Under  Arms — Four  Dead  Mules — 
"Cut-Eye"  Out  of  Temper— The  Ax  On  The  Ledge— Back  at 
the  Forks — The  First  Dwelling  in  Downieville — Christmas 
— The  Stars  and  Stripes  in  the  Sierras — Magnificent  Scenery. 

When  John  Potter  arrived,  he  brought  the  somewhat 
discouraging  news  that  provisions  were  on  the  way,  but 
not  in  sufficient  quantity  ^o  last  us  through  the  winter. 
Miles  Goodyear  was  very  ill  and  not  expected  to  live, 
and  he  advised  me  to  go  down  at  once  and  secure  more 
supplies,  as  Andrew,  the  younger  brother  of  the  sick 
man,  had  intimated  that  in  case  Miles  died,  he  would 
leave  the  mountains.  I  hesitated  for  a  few  days,  and 
meanwhile  received  news  of  Mr.  Goodyear's  death, 
which  occurred,  as  far  as  I  can  place  the  date,  on  the 
12th  of  November,  1849.  His  remains  were  buried  in 
a  rocker,  but  were  afterwards  removed  by  his  brother 
Andrew,  and  interred  in  consecrated  ground,  in  more 
civilized  surroundings. 

As  soon  as  I  heard  of  Mr.  Goodyear's  death,  I  set 
out  for  the  bar  to  procure  provisions,  taking  with  me 
Billy  Griffith  and  Mike  Duvarney.  We  passed  the 
place,  on  our  road,  where  they  had  buried  Goodyear, 
and  soon  reached  the  camp.  We  were  doomed  to  dis- 
appointment and  hardships,  for  expecting  a  supply  of 
provisions,  and  being  unwilling  to  stay  in  the  locality, 
Andrew  had  already  made  an  agreement  to  sell  them 
to  Sexton,  Russell,  and  Dr.  Vaughn,  the  physician  who 

1  «T 


i*i 


i. 


58 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


had  attended  his  brother  durinijf  his  iUness.  At  the 
time  when  we  struck  tlie  bar,  thev  were  having^  rather 
hard  liick.  Rations  were  very  scarce,  and  men  were 
ekeing  out  an  existence  by  subsisting  upon  a  beef  they 
had  found  lying  upon  the  bar.  By  the  time  we  arrived 
the  meat  was  all  gone,  but  they  continued  making  soup 
of  the  bones,  and  the  kettle  containing  this,  to  our  pal- 
ates, savory  mess,  was  kept  boiling  for  all  it  was  worth 
It  is  wonderful  what  one  can  relish  when  hunger  drives 
him. 

Six  head  of  cattle  were  expected  up  at  this  time,  and 
Andrew  agreed  to  let  us  have  two  of  them,  Woods  and 
his  partner  having  contracted  for  the  rest.  On  this  oc- 
casion Andrew  Goodyear  showed  himself  a  generous, 
large-hearted  man.  He  charged  us  only  one  hundred 
dollars  a  head,  althou^^h  he  knew  that  starvino;  and  in 
distress  as  we  were,  we  would  gladly  have  given  him 
four  or  fiv^e  times  that  amount.  He  also  gave  me  a  lit- 
tle rice  and  some  dried  apples,  which  I  sent  up  to  the 
Forks.  Kindness  under  such  circumstances,  makes  an 
indelible  impression  upon  one's  mind,  and  in  the  hour  of 
distress  it  has  the  same  soothing  effect  as  has  the  light 
from  the  cottage  window,  that  shines  through  the  dark 
and  stormy  night,  and  shows  the  wayfarer  that  he  is 
near  his  friends.  In  the  years  that  have  since  passed, 
I  have  often  thought  of  this  incident,  and  realized  how 
few  there  were — and  I  may  say,  are — who  would  have 
acted  in  the  same  spirit  as  did  Andrew  Goodyear. 

I  now  made  arrangements  with  Messrs.  Sexton,  Rus- 
sell and  Dr.  Vaughn,  to  purchase  the  expected  pro- 
visions from  them  for  the  sum  of  $3,900.  The  price 
amounted  to  two  dollars  per  pound  all  around,  including 
the  sacks,  which  were  wet  with  snow. 

I  was   anxious  to  get  over  the    river   so   as   to  go 


IN 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


59 


down  to  meet  the  men  who  were  bringing  up  the 
goods,  but  the  water  had  risen — it  was  rushing  past, 
and  I  could  neither  wade  nor  swim  across.  Griffith  was 
camped  on  the  opposite  shore  in  a  small  blanket  tent, 
and  I  indicated  to  him  that  I  desired  him  to  fell  a  tree 
which  was  bendinix  over  the  river,  so  as  to  form  a  brid<jfe 
for  me  to  cross  upon.  He  understood  me,  and  at  once 
set  to  work.  For  two  days  he  labored  hard,  but  when 
at  last  the  tree  fell,  and  I  was  ready  to  go  over,  the 
swift  current  swept  it  down  the  stream,  and  I  was  still 
on  the  wronfj  side  of  the  river.  So  there  was  nothino- 
to  do  but  to  await  further  developments.  But  it  was 
very  tedious  waiting.  The  bones  were  getting  scarce, 
and  our  larder  was  at  a  minimum,  when,  just  as  we 
were  wondering  how  the  hide  would  do,  if  properly 
cooked,  we  were  saved  such  culinary  experiment,  for  the 
water  fell,  and  we  were  enabled  to  cross  the  river  and 
join  Bill  Griffith. 

As  it  happened,  it  did  not  seem  to  make  much  differ- 
ence on  which  side  of  the  river  we  were.  We  had  on- 
ly got  into  another  starvation  camp,  and  we  concluded 
that  we  would  have  to  take  to  the  hills  to  find  some- 
thing with  which  to  keep  us  alive,  and  once  more  Mike, 
Bill  and  myself  set  out,  accompanied  by  a  man  named 
Morrison.  Having  succeeded  in  climbing  the  hill, 
then  we  went  up  the  divide  hoping  to  get  to  Simmons' 
camp,  where  the  firm  of  flawley,  Sinnnons  &  Co.,  kept 
a  store.  We  had  all  we  could  do  to  make  any  headway 
on  this  journey.  A  man's  heart  depends  upon  his 
stomach,  to  a  great  extent,  but  if  the  If^tter  is  as  emp- 
ty as  a  vacuum,  and  has  been  so  for  so;ne  time,  the  for- 
mer is  inclined  to  go  below  par.  We  had  our  mis- 
givings as  to  the  result  of  the  tramp,    lest  some  of  us 


vs; 


\$ 


GO 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


'  r 


A    LONELY    MOUNTAINEER 


should  give  out  before  reaching  our 
destination,  and  little  Mike  was  the 
first  to  yield  to  the  hardships  we 
had  to  endure.  After  all,  he  was 
only  a  child,  and  the  little  fellow  bore 

himself  most  bravely 
until    he    was    fairly 
worn  out.     We  tried 
to  carry  him  on  our 
backs,  but  found  that 
strength  did  not   allow 
proceed  in  this  way,  and 
ultimately    decided    to 
e  Morrison  behind  with 
boy,  while  Bill   and   I 
pushed  on  towards  the  camp. 
Our  difficulties  in- 
creased.        The  No- 
vember     day      soon 
came  to   a  close,  and 
night,  cold  and   dark, 
fell  upon  us.        Still 
we  went  on    through 
the  v/oods.        There 
was  a  trail,  which  in 
the  daytime  we  could 
have     easily     found, 
but  in  the   dark   we 
often  found  ourselves 
wandering     from    it, 
and  one  of  us  would 
then  stand  still,  while 
the  other  would  go  in 
search    of    the   trail. 


HUNTING   FOR   GOIyD 


61 


Every  now  and  then  we  would  call  out  to  one  another, 
and  thus,  in  this  manner,  we  moved  onward,  until  a 
welcome  li<jht,shinin<jf  towards  us  from  a  distance,  denoted 
that  we  were  approaching  the  end  of  our  journey. 

Sinnnons'  store  was  at  the  time  poorly  stocked,  but 
he  was  a  j^ood,  generous-hearted  fellow,  and  gladly 
shared  his  scanty  supply  with  us.  He  gave  us  a  bottle 
of  brandy  and  a  few  slap-jacks,  and  after  resting  awhile, 
Bill  went  back  to  Morrison  and  Mike  to  bringf  them 
relief,  and  the  next  morning  they  all  arrived  in  camp. 

I  spent  quite  a  pleasant  evening  at  Simmons'  camp, 
and  after  these  many  years  I  still  remember  the  com- 
pany that  was  there,  some  of  whom  were  particularly 
good  fellows.  Among  the  rest  was  Tim  Harris,  who 
was  full  of  fun  and  a  most  amiable  companion.  He  was 
waiting  for  Sexton  to  come  up  with  his  provisions  and 
did  much  to  entertain  the  company.  We  had  a  joke  the 
next  morning,  as  to  who  tumbled  out  of  the  bunk  during 
the  night,  Harris  or  I;  and  to  this  day  the  question  has 
never  been  settled,  I  am  certain  however  that  Tim  was 
the  man  that  had  the  "sugar  in  his  pocket."  Simmons 
treated  us  very  well  indeed,  and  when  the  rest  came  up 
he  shared  his  flour  with  us,  and  we  were  now  in  clover, 
I  must  admit  with  every  due  respect  to  the  temperance 
cause  and  its  advocates,  that  our  brandy  proved,  "the 
staff  of  life"to  us,  notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said 
to  the  contrary.  It  is  true,  no  doubt,  that  there  are 
circumstances  and  conditions  of  life,  when  liquor  is  not 
absolutely  necessary,  but  let  every  honest  temperance 
preacher  try  a  little  starving  in  the  mountains  with 
nothing  to  drink  but  snow  water,  and  it  is  just  possible 
that  the  whole  fraternity  will  feel  called  upon  to  change 
opinion. 

We    stayed    at    Simmons'    camp    for    several  days. 


m- 


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HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


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■ 

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1 

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1 

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111    . 


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11     I 


expecting  that  the  provisions,  which  were  on  the  way, 
would  arrive,  but  the  party  hrin^jini^  them  up  had  been 
delayed  by  the  Hoods,  caused  by  the  incessant  rain,  and 
could  not  L*'et  across  the  river.  I  became  impatient  and 
Set  out  to  look  for  them,  expecting  to  meet  them,  and  if 
I  should  fail  in  this,  I  intended  to  go  as  far  as  Nye's 
crossing  and  buy  rations.  But  they  had  succeeded 
after  trreat  ditKculties,  in  crossing  at  P'oster's  Bar,  and  I 
fell  in  with  them  between  this  })lace  and  Slate  Range, 
and  then  turned  back  with  them.  When  we  got  to 
Goodyear's  Bar,  everybody  there  seemed  delighted  at 
seeing  such  a  quantity  of  provisions  at  once,  a  sight tliat 
had  not  been  presented  to  them  for  some  time.  We  had 
the  greatest  difficulty  in  cooking  our  meals,  for  Andrew 
Goodyear's  men  were  all  Indians,  and  there  were  fifteen 
or  sixteen  of  them.  It  was  a  liungry,  thieving  lot,  and 
the  first  })anful  we  cooked,  went  out  of  sight  in  the 
twinkling  of  an  eye.  We  were  determined  to  have  a 
good,  square  meal  at  once,  when  we  came  into  camp,  and 
this  was  our  first  experience,  but  we  changed  our  tactics. 
I  did  the  cooking  after  this,  and  Mike  and  Bill  watched 
the  pan,  knife  and  pistol  in  hand,  and  gave  out  that  the 
first  man,  who  put  his  hand  into  that  pan,  would  go 
home  minus  his  fingers.  We  then  enjoyed  our  meal 
and  suspended  any  further  cooking  operations,  until  we 
got  away  from  them.  As  previously  stated  we  had 
already  bargained  for  the  provisions,  and  we  now  secured, 
in  addition  to  what  we  had  already  bought,  two  gallons 
of  vinegar  for  fifty  dollars.  Our  goods  consisted  of  450 
pounds  of  flour,  a  very  small  quantity  indeed  to  winter 
on,  and  the  rest  was  canned  goods — meats,  vegetables, 
fish,  etc.  I  was  offered  half  an  ounce  a  pound  for  two 
of  my  hams,  but  declined  the  offer,  as  we  had  enough  to 
do  to  get  back  home  without  packing  gold.       It  seems 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


68 


strange  now  to  think  of  the  days,  when  in  travchn^, 
Mike  and  I  sometimes  used  to  quarrel  ahout  who 
should  carry  the  gold  bag,  for  although  gold  was  what 
we  suffered  and  toiled  for,  it  often  became  very  wearisome 
to  carry  it  about,  when  we  were  tired  and  exhausted. 

The  next  thing  to  be  done  was  to  get  our  stores 
packed  up  to  our  camp,  and  I  made  an  arrangement 
with  ** Cut-Eye"  to  do  the  transportation,  as  he  had 
plenty  of  horses  and  nuiles.  He  was  to  have  thirty 
ounces  for  delivering  them  at  Cox's  Bar,  as  that  was 
then  the  end  of  nuile  possibilities  in  those  quarters,  and  I 
agreed  to  pay  him  for  all  horses  or  mules  that  might 
die  on  the  road.  I  believe  that  those  belonsrin'jf  to  our 
company  were  the  only  'forty  niners,  who  remained  in 
the  mountains  all  winter,  as  the  general  thing  was  to  go 
down  below  in  the  fall  and  return  in  the  spring. 

We  had  plenty  of  snow  and  rain  on  our  trip  up  to  the 
Forks,  and  we  had  to  watch  Cut-Eye  very  closely,  as  he 
was  not  altogether  to  be  relied  upon.  When  I  reHect 
upon  this  trip,  I  am  reminded  of  many  scenes  that 
happened,  characteristic  of  the  happy-go-lucky  nature, 
of  which  most  miners  were  possessed.  I  can  see  the 
boys  yet  scraping  away  the  snow  to  make  room  along- 
side of  some  log  that  might  be  used  as  a  table.  Then 
the  cards  would  be  produced,  the  pipes  lighted  and  the 
brandy  bottle  passed  around,  and  in  the  midst  of  the 
wilds  men  would  enjoy  themselves  with  a  most  enviable 
disregard  for  the  next  difficulty  that  might  arise.  And 
as  these  scenes  recur  to  me  I  am  put  in  mind  of  the 
beautiful  lines  that  begin  with  the  question: 

"AVhere  is  now  tbe  merry  party — 
I  remember  long  ago?" 

At  Goodyear's  Spring  we  halted.  Bill  was  behind 
bringing  a  hundred  weight  of  flour  on  a  h'nj;  horse  belongf- 


C4 


HUNTING    KOR   GOLD 


1 .1  h 


ill 


11 1 


M4 


in<jj  to  **  Cut-Eye,  "  The  sack  had  slipped  forward  and 
was  right  on  tlie  nock  of  the  poor  animal,  which  was 
tiius  considerably  impeded  in  its  progress  and  very 
nearly  done  for.  When  I  saw  them  coming  into  camp, 
1  l)e>ran  to  think  that  it  was  a  case,  and  that  I  would 
have  to  pay  for  one  dead  horse  at  all  events,  hut  fortune 
fnvorod  me,  for  the  poor  brute  picked  up  again,  when  re- 
lieved )f  its  load.  As  soon  as  we  bejj^an  descendintj 
Goodvp.ar's  hill,  Mick  and  Bill  went  ahead  to  let  the 
boys  know  at  the  P'orks  that  we  were  coming,  and  it 
was  indeed  the  best  tidings  they  could  hear.  Old  **  Cut- 
Eye  "  was  doing  his  utmost  all  along  to  string  the  trip  out 
as  much  as  possible.  He  had  hoped  that  some  of  the 
mules  would  die  on  the  road,  so  that  he  might  make 
more  money  on  the  transaction.  But  with  me  it  was  a 
case  of  diamond  cut  diamond.  I  was  up  to  his  tricks 
and  foresaw  that  the  half  starved  mules  could  not  last 
long.  So  I  pressed  on,  and  we  arrived  at  Cox's  Bar 
without  losing  any  of  them.  I  then  paid  Foster  and 
advised  him  to  hurry  back,  as  the  weather  was  getting 
dirty,  and  there  was  absolutely  nothing  for  the  mules  to 
eat.  He  stayed  with  us  that  night  however,  and  the 
next  morning  returned,  some  of  the  boys  helping  him  to 
get  over  the  hill.  Before  they  left  him  four  of  the 
mules  gave  out,  and  he  declared  that  the  Major  had  got 
the  start  of  him  this  time,  but  he  would  get  even  yet. 
It  was  no  easy  matter  to  carry  our  stores  on  our 
shoulders  from  Cox's  bar  to  the  Forks,  but  we  persevered, 
until  we  had  it  all  in  camp.  The  beef  was  stowed  away 
in  a  snowdrift,  and  when  packed  in  this  manner  and 
kept  from  the  air,  it  will  keep  good  for  two  or  three 
months.  We  happened  to  get  quite  an  addition  to  our 
supply  in  a  somewhat  singular  manner.  We  met  a  party 
that   had  lost  an  ox.     It  had  strayed  from  them,  and 


i  ■ 


HUNTINCJ    FOR   GOLD 


65 


they  told  us  tliat  if  wo  coulil  find  it,  we  rnis^dit  keep  it. 
After  a  diliurent  search,  John  Potter  found  tlie  animal 
perched  on  the  ledge  of  a  rock  above  Cox's  Bar  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river.  How  it  got  there  is  to  this  day 
inexplicable  to  me,  but  there  it  stood,  unable  to  turn  or 
get  down,  starving  in  the  solitude,  looking  down  upon 
the  river  in  a  sort  of  mute  despair  and  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  lowing  of  its  fellows.  When  we  climbed  up 
towards  it,  it  turned  its  big  sad  eyes  upon  us  with  an  ex- 
pression, as  if  it  hoped  for  relief,  even  from  the  race 
that  bowed  its  head  under  the  yoke  and  lashed  its  back, 
when  its  strength  failed.  It  seemed  a  cruel  thing  to  do, 
but  there  was  no  alternative,  so  we  shot  the  poor  brute, 
and  it  fell  over  the  precipice,  and  as  it  rolled  down  the 
rocks,  everyone  turned  his  head  away  with  a  shudder. 

Let  it  not  appear  to  the  reader  that  such  tenderheart- 
edness on  the  part  of  rough  miners  is  improbable.  In- 
deed, everybody  who  has  lived  in  the  wilds  is  well  aware 
that  even  when  a  little  squirrel  ventures  up  to  the  tent 
and  shows  signs  of  confidence,  no  one  will  hurt  it  and  it 
soon  becomes  a  pet. 

After  we  had  done  all  the  hard  work,  the  snow  ceased 
and  we  got  a  spell  of  pleasant  weather.  Just  then  some 
of  our  boys  brought  another  mule  load  of  provisions  from 
Nye's  Crossing  and  we  were  now  prepared  to  meet  the 
winter. 

Meanwhile  the  building  of  our  cabin  had  advanced, 
and  when  our  provisions  had  been  stored,  we  all  lent  a 
hand  to  finish  it.  The  roof  was  covered  with  shingles, 
which  were  tied  on  with  rawhide.  The  structure  was 
crude  as  is  all  early  backwood  architecture,  but  it  promised 
to  answer  its  purpose  well.  It  was  strong,  warm  and 
watertight  and  would  withstand  the  winter's  storms.  It 
became  indeed  well  known  to  many,  and  there  may  be 


GG 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


some,  who  read  this,  who  will  still  remember  the  day 
when  they  were  first  welcomed  in  that  eahin.  It  was 
moreover  the  first  of  its  kind  built  at  the  Forks,  and 
thus  it  virtually  became  the  foundation  of  Downieville. 

Since  then  I  have  dwelt  in  many  houses,  far  more 
richly  furnished  in  every  respect,  with  modern  conven- 
iences and  the  latest  improvements,  but  I  nmst  ([uestion 
whether  I  have  been  more  comfortable  in  any  of  them, 
than  I  was  in  the  cabin  at  the  Forks.  We  were  follow- 
ed by  Jack  Smith  and  Gorman,  afterwards  came  Kelly 
and  Berry  and  several  others,  while  Sam  Woods,  Jim 
Kearns  and  Murray  settled  on  Jersey  Flat. 

It  was  on  the  10th  of  December,  1840,  that  we  moved 
into  our  new  quarters,  and  then  came  Christmas.  We 
were  determined  to  make  the  best  of  the  festive  season, 
even  though  we  were  in  the  midst  of  the  wilds,  far 
away  from  friends  and  relations.  Our  greatest  trouble 
was,  that  W'e  had  but  one  bottle  of  brandy  in  camp,  and 
it  took  us  some  time  before  we  could  decide  whether  we 
would  drink  it'  on  Christmas  or  New  Yeurs  day.  The 
discussion,  pro  and  con,  was  very  animated  and  resulted 
in  the  drawin<)f  of  the  cork  on  Christmas  morninor.  It 
was  quite  early,  when  this  important  event  took  place, 
and  we  made  punch  withfne  liquor,  using  hot  water  and 
nutmeg.  We  drank  to  absent  friends,  to  wives  and 
sweethearts  and  to  the  great  American  Nation.  Grad- 
ually as  the  sun  rose  higher  in  the  heavens  and  the 
brandy  got  lower  in  the  bottle,  we  became  n\ore  enthu- 
siastic. I  had  a  small  representation  of  the  stars  and 
stripes  in  my  possession,  and  we  determined  that  on  this 
day  it  should  adorn  our  house.  So  I  climbed  upon  the 
roof  with  the  flag  in  one  hand,  a  pistol  in  the  other.  I 
made  a  short  speech,  waved  the  flag  and  fired  a  few 
shots  and  finished  up  by  giving  three  cheers   for   the 


o 


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HUNTING    FOR    (iOLD 


(.1  jib* 


Aiiicrican  Constitution.  Then  I  fixed  the  fla<r  on  the 
gable  point,  and  we  all  shouted  for  joy  when  we  saw  it 
unfurled  to  the  breeze  for  the  first  time  in  the  fastnesses 
of  the  Sierras. 

I  cannot  conclude  this  chapter  without  drawing 
attention  to  the  magnificent  scenery  that  surrounded  us. 
Summer  and  winter,  the  grandeur  of  nature  in  the 
Sierras  is  so  wonderful,  that  it  becomes  sublime.  The 
towering  mountains,  the  snow  c)ad  peaks,  the  lakes,  the 
mountain  streams  and  the  variety  of  vegetation  —  all 
blend  harmoniously  and  form  pictures,  which  my  pen  is 
too  feeble  to  describe.  In  the  midst  of  such  surround- 
ings we  laid  the  foundation  of  a  community,  which  pass- 
ed through  all  the  weird  phases  of  border  life,  into  the 
more  settled  condition  of  advanced  civilization. 

The  following  pages  wnll  contain  many  strange  tales 
of  happenings  in  that  community,  adventures  of  men, 
and  sometimes  of  women.  They  will  relate  the  dis- 
appointments they  suffered  or  the  triumphs  they  achieved; 
show  how  confusion  brought  about  self-made  laws,  if  not 
always  absolute  justice,  and  explain  to  some  extent  the 
conditions  that  caused  many  men  to  remain  poor,  who 
might  to-day  have  been  worth  millions. 


Ilit 

i 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Life  in  the  Cabin — The  Bill  of  Fare — A  Prospecting  Fever — • 
The  Dangers  of  Traveling — Arrival  of  Mrs.  James  Galloway 
— A  Poor  Gin  Mill —  Jack  Smith  and  His  Jokes — Up  a  Tree 
After  Gold — Expensive  Rations — William  Slater — A  Rush  of 
Miners — Taking  up  Claims — The  Necessity  for  Laws — 

As  I  HOW  proceed  with  my  narrative,  I  will  endeavor 
as  far  as  possible  to  bring  the  incidents  and  occurrences 
out  in  the  order  in  which  they  happened.  The  rei^ion 
I  had  adopted  as  my  home,  remained  so  for  over  eioht 
years,  and  although  1  traveled  about  a  good  deal,  I  still 
made  the  Forks  my  headquarters.  During  that  period 
I  met  with  many  vicissitudes,  and  many  strange  scenes 
were  enacted,  and  such  of  them  will  l)e  related,  as  will 
give  the  reader  an  adequate  idea  of  life  in  the  CrJit'oria 
mines  in  the  early  days. 

After  we  had  done  justice  to  Christmas,  we  went 
prospecting  in  different  directions  and  met  with  very 
good  success.  Just  then  a  Mr.  Lord,  who  was  camped 
on  Jersey  Flat,  came  over  to  see  us.  fle  made  a  loiiix 
face,  spoke  of  his  hard  luck,  said  he  had  a  family  back 
in  the  States,  and  that  he  was  anxious  to  return.  Ho 
wanted  to  make  a  small  raise  and  would  pay  anything 
to  anybody,  who  would  put  him  on  to  a  good  claim.  I 
took  pity  on  the  man  and  gave  him  part  of  my  claim, 
and  he  soon  proved  himself  a  mean,  ungrateful  wretch. 
He  at  once  set  to  work  with  his  partner  and  made  from 
one  to  two  hundred  dollars  a  day,  taking  out  as  much 

as  $1460  worth  in  one  day,  while  I  had  to  be  satisfied 

est 


wi 


70 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


Hit 


1   ■, 


M 


11 


I  > 


with  a  few  ounces.  As  soon  as  he  found  out  that  his 
end  of  the  claim  was  so  much  better  than  mine,  he  be- 
came very  reserved  and  silent,  and  even  went  so  far  as 
to  draw  a  dividing  line  with  stakes,  so  as  to  separate 
his  portion  from  the  Major's.  I  had  many  experiences 
of  such  inirratitude  but  learned  to  understand  that  this 
is  nothing  more  than  might  be  expected;  for  nature,  in 
making  up,  from  motives  of  economy,  sometimes  uses 
the  odds  and  ends  and  sends  the  poorer  work  into  the 
world,  thus  making  her  more  creditable  productions 
appear  to  greater  advantage. 

We  did  not  expect  to  be  able  to  get  any  more  pro- 
visions up  till  about  the  month  of  May,  and  we  made 
our  bill  of  fare  accordingly.  One  man  always  stayed  in 
camp  to  look  after  it  and  do  the  cooking,  while  the 
others  were  at  work.  Our  greatest  scarcity  was  flour, 
and  so  it  was  only  used  once  a  day.  The  dough  being 
made,  it  was  divided  into  six  equal  parts  and  put  into 
the  oven,  and  each  man  knew  exactly  what  to  expect. 
Our  every  day  dinner  consisted  of  beans  and  rice,  but  on 
Sundays,  we  generally  had  something  extra.  At  this 
time  I  was  working  by  myself  and  makmg  out  very  well. 
I  seldom  took  out  less  than  a  pound  a  day,  and  it 
happened  several  times  that  I  was  rewarded  with  a  find 
of  from  twenty  to  thirty  ounces.  Potter  and  I  after- 
wards worked  together,  and  on  rainy  days,  when  we  did 
not  care  about  going  very  far  away  to  work,  we  would 
work  at  intervals  on  the  site  where  now  stands  Cray- 
oroft's  mill,  and  often  make  three  or  four  ounces  in  a 
few  hours.  Indeed,  these  were  the  palmy  days  of  gold 
dio-ofinof,  when  one  for  obvious  reason  saved  all  he  found. 
We  dried  our  gold  in  a  shovel  and  weighed  it  in  a  pair 
of  scales,  big  enough  to  w^eigh  "grub"  in,  using  lead 
weights.     But  if  our  weights  were  not. quite  exact,  what 


ll 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


71 


of  it!  We  had  plenty  of  gold,  and  a  few  ounces,  more 
or  less  was  neither  here  nor  there. 

Some  time  during  February,  Wood  and  his  partners 
sold  us  a  quantity  of  provisions  which  had  been  left  at 
Negro  Tent,  then  known  as  Hollow  Log,  and  on  the 
25th  of  February,  1850,  we  started  out  to  bring  them 
in.  On  this  trip  we  fell  in  with  "Cut-Eye"  Foster,  and 
another  man,  who  were  the  first  to  come  up  to  the 
mountains  that  spring 

It  may  seem  strange  that  men  who  were  doing  as 
well  as  we  were, should  not  feel  settled.  There  we  were, 
making  plenty  of  gold,  and  yet  we  wanted  to  go  some- 
where else,  where  we  could  make  more,  and  get  ahead 
of  the  many  miners  the  approaching  spring  would  bring 
u[)  that  way,  and  when  we  learned  that  a  great  many 
men  were  at  that  time  at  Sleisjhville,  waitinij  for  a  favor- 
able  opportunity  to  get  to  the  Forks,  we  made  up  our 
minds  that  it  was  time  for  us  to  look  for  richer  fields, 
lest  we  should  be  elbowed  out  of  fairer  chance  in  the 
general  scramble  of  the  spring  rush. 

Potter  went  up  to  Twist's  Flat,  as  it  is  now  called,  and 
in  prospecting  struck  a  very  rich  patch  opposite  Negro 
Point.  On  his  return  we  talked  matters  over,  and  he 
advised  that  we  go  up  at  once,  but  I  had  that  day  taken 
thirty  ounces  out  during  his  absence,  and  this  fact  part- 
ly unsettled  us.  The  following  day  Potter  returned  and 
took  out  thirty-two  ounces,  and  this  two  ounces  over 
and  above  what  I  had  taken  out,  decided  us  in  favor  of 
going.  But  there  were  other  circumstances  to  take  in- 
to consideration.  It  would  have  been  easy  enough  for 
us  to  leave  the  Forks  with  our  blankets,  but  the  trans- 
portation of  our  gold  would  cause  more  trouble.  We 
soon  came  to  the  conclusion  that  if  we  attempted  to 
take  the  gold  with  us,  we  should  certainly    be  killed  or 


72 


HUNTING    FOR   (iOLD 


at  least  robbed  on  the  road,  and  as  we  could  not  leave  it 
behind,  we  had  no  alternative  but  to  stay  where  we 
were,  which  we  deternihied  to  do. 

Jack  Smith  and  two  or  three  others  went  prospectinu;', 
They  a  built  a  brush  shanty  somewhere  about  the 
head  of  Kanaka  Creek,  which  was  then  called  Indian 
Creek,  and  there  were  many  who  afterwards  thought 
that  Jim  Crow  and  his  Kanakas  had  wintered  there.  I 
had  tried  to  take  up  a  claim  on  the  North  Fork,  but  a 
dispute  arisiiii^  about  it,  I  went  back  to  the  old  place  on 
the  South  Fork. 

My  narrative  is  now  taking  me  into  the  month  of 
March  in  the  year  1850.  But,  before  proceeding  any 
further,  I  must  mention  one  of  the  most  memorable  events 
that  took  place  in  the  solitudes  of  the  Sierras — the  ar- 
rival there  of  the  first  white  woman.  It  was  just  about 
the  first  of  March,  1850,  that  Mr.  James  Galloway  and 
his  most  estimable  wife  arrived  at  the  Forks.  F(;r  a 
woman  to  brave  the  difficulties,  not  to  say  dangers,  of 
traveling  up  the  mountains  in  those  days,  was  enough 
to  arouse  the  admiration  of  us  all,  and  the  arrival  in  our 
midst,  of  ]\[rs.  Galloway,  was  hailed  with  much  enthu- 
siasm. 

Cut-eye  Foster  had  arrived  at  Cox's  Bar  with  provis- 
ions and  liquors,  and  later  opened  a  grocery  and  grog- 
gery  on  the  hillside  above  our  cabin.  Jack  Smith  came 
with  him  from  Goodvear's  Hill,  and  brought  with  him  a 
five-gallon  keg  of  gin,  packing  it  on  his  back  all  the  way 
from  Sleighville.  It  seems  that  before  they  started  from 
this  latter  place,  a  good  many  drams  leaked  out  of  the 
keg,  and  Jack  and  Foster  did  not  spare  it  on  the  road, 
but  notwithstanding  this  fact  they  succeeded  in  bring- 
ing the  keg  full  into  camp  The  process  by  which  this 
was  a.chieved,  remaineu  a  secret  between  J-ack  and  Fos- 


% 


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m 


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74 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


,.n 


ter,  and  was  no  doubt  due  to  the  latter's  inuj'enuity.  Fos- 
ter was  neither  sentimental  nor  sensitive,  in  any  sense 
of  the  word,  and  he  never  allowed  conscience  to  prick 
him.  When  he  opened  his  store  at  the  Forks,  he  sold 
a  quantity  of  gin  to  the  men.  They  did  not  say  nmch, 
but  they  doubted  that  it  was  the  real  article,  they  paid 
so  dearly  for,  and  people  who  came  up  from  Sleighville, 
declared  that  there  the  liquor  would  certainly  not  have 
passed  for  gin.  Jack  had  a  hard  time  of  it  bringing  the 
precious  fluid,  and  spent  one  night  seated  at  the  roots 
of  a  tree,  holding  on  to  the  keg  all  the  time,  with  only 
a  blanket  over  him,  and  no  other  fire  than  that  con- 
tained in  the  liquor.  However,  when  he  arrived  at  the 
Forks,  he  found  it  impossible  to  keep  the  keg  filled  as 
fast  as  it  was  drawn,  and  the  sfin  soon  gave  out. 

The  same  Jack  Smith  was  a  character,  and  repeatedly 
got  himself  or  others  into  some  ludicrous  })osition.  I 
remember  one  time,  when  he  was  working  below  the 
Bluebanks,  that  I  went  across  to  see  him  I  found 
him  engaged  in  a  soliloquy,  in  which  he  poured  particu- 
larly strong  language  upon  all  Missourians,  and  Pike 
County  HOMBRES  in  particular.  He  was  at  the  time 
panning  dirt  on  a  claim  above  his  own,  and  at  first  he 
refused  to  tell  me  what  all  his  trouble  was  about.  At 
last  it  came  out.  He  had  taken  up  this  claim  for  the 
purpose  of  selling  out  to  the  first  "greenhorn"  who 
might  chance  to  come  along,  and  to  make  it  sell  well,  he 
had  put  two  or  three  ounces  in  the  hole,  all  ready  for 
prospecting. 

In  a  little  while  a  Pike  Connty  hombre  came  along 
with  pick  and  pan,  looking  for  a  claim,  and  Jack  put 
him  onto  the  place,  saying  he  was  willing  to  sell.  The 
stranger  set  tr  work,  but  instead  of  starting  at  the  bot- 
tom he  pulled  down  the  sides,  thus  filling   up  the  hole, 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


75 


and  completely  burying  Jack's  gold,  and  as  he  could 
scarcely  raise  the  color,  he  left  without  buying.  And 
there  was  Jack  minus  his  sale,  and  left  to  find  his  gold 
for  the  second  time,  which  the  Missourian  had  failed  to 
find.     No  wonder  he  was  mad. 

Strange  to  say,  that  very  claim  proved  afterwards  to 
be  one  of  the  richest  at  the  Forks,  and  I  have  known 
Jack  to  take  out  as  much  as  six  pounds  in  one  day  from 
it.  It  was  one  of  the  crevicing  claims  that  I  have  spoken 
of,  which  we  used  to  work  on  wet  days,  and  it  was  a 
common  thing  among  as  to  trade  our  claims  for  a 
piece  of  tobacco,  or  other  trifiing  exchange,  if  we  had 
not  had  a  successful  day.  In  this  manner  Jack  and  I 
had  several  times  traded  this  same  jlaim  backward  and 
forward,  but  he  was  the  one  who  owned  it,  when  it 
began  to  pan  out  well. 

Another  story  about  Jack  comes  to  my  mind,  as  I 
write  this,  which  shows  that  the  joke  he  wished  to 
perpetrate,  did  not  always  turn  upon  himself  and  he  was 
full  of  practical  jokes.  It  was  altogether  an  age  of 
tricks  and  trickery.  Men  had  little  to  think  about,  out- 
side the  routine  of  their  every  day  vocation,  and  the 
stories  brought  from  home  or  travels,  would  become 
stale.  So  the  miners  entertained  themselves  and  their 
friends  at  the  expense  of  strangers  or  oftentimes  of 
their  own  companions.  It  was  a  common  thing  for 
gold-seekers  to  keep  in  their  pockets,  several  slugs  of 
geld,  varying  in  value.  They  were  lumps  worth,  some- 
times, as  much  as  forty  or  fifty  dollars,  and  often  more. 
Jack  was  sitting  under  a  tree,  one  day,  wondering  where 
he  would  try  his  luck  next.  In  his  pocket  were  the 
regulation  slugs — four  or  five  of  them — and  they  were 
beauties.  As  his  glance  wandered  across  the  open 
glade  before  him,  he  saw  a  man  coming   along,  evident- 


76 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


II 


ly  a  green honi  in  search  of  gold,  and  an  idea  struck 
Jack  to  have  some  fun  at  the  prospector's  expense.  He 
pretended  to  be  digging  in  the  bark  of  tlie  tree  with  liis 
kiife,  and  as  the  stranger  came  up  to  him,  lie  a})parent- 
ly  took  a  lump  of  gold  out  and  put  it  in  his  pocket.  The 
stranger  halted,  put  down  his  blankets,  and  was  about 
to  use  his  own  knife  on  the  tree,  when  Jack  stopjied 
him.  "No  you  don't  I"  said  Jack,  "This  is  my  tree. 
There  is  one  over  there  tiiat  looks  pret  ,  good,  you  may 
try  that."     The  stranger  took  his    k:  .nd    went   for 

the  other  tree,  while  Jack  protendea  to  find  another 
lump.      "Any  luck  ?"  queried  Jack,  after  awhile. 

"Can't  raise  the  color,"  said  the  stransj['er. 

"Hello  I"  shouted  Jack,  "one  more.  That  makes 
three,"  and  he  held  three  big  lum})s  out  in  his  hand. 

"That's  queer,"  said  the  other,  plunging  his  knife  deep 
into  {\\e  touo'li  bark  of  the  tree,  and  makin<j^  a  loni^i'  •''lit 
as  he  drew  it  out  with  a  twist,  "It's  mighty  queer  that 
there  shouldn't  be  anv  here  I" 

"Maybe  you  are  too  near  the  ground,"  suggested  Jack, 
"some  of  them  are  'top-reefers'  as  we  call  them  here; 
try  about  twenty  feet  higher  up.  Whew  !  here's  an- 
other 1" 

The  stransrer  beijan  to  think  that  it  was  time  he  also 
found  something,  and  so,  without  any  further  ado,  he 
began  to  climb  up. 

"How's  this  ?"  he  shouted. 

"Higher  up,  I  think,"  suggested  Jack. 

"Here  ?"  from  the  stranger. 

"A  little  higher  I"  yelled  Jack,  in  delight,  not  even 
being  able  to  see  the  man,  by  this  time.  "Up  as  far  as 
that  fork  above  you,  and  I  think  you  will  strike  it." 

The  stranger  made  a  desperate  effort,  reached  the  fork 
and  dug    into   the   bark   for   gold.       By  this  time  Jack 


11 


II 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


77 


could  no  longer  restraiu  his  merriment,  and  bursting  in- 
to a  roar  of  laughter  that  raised  the  echo  of  the  woods, 
he  hurried  to  the  camp  to  tell  his  adventure.  But  up 
in  the  top  of  the  tree  sat  the  gold-seeker,  prospecting 
in  the  bark  and  wondering  what  had  taken  that  crazy 
man  below.  Such  practical  joking  formed  one  of  the 
features,  characteristic  of  mining  life  in  those  days. 
Generally  the  jokes  were  taken  in  good  part,  and,  when 
opportunity  allowed,  practiced  on  somebody  else. 

"Cut-eye"  Foster  made  a  success  at  store-keeping, 
but  his  prices  were  absolutely  ruinous  to  his  customers. 
fle  charged  three  dollars  per  pound  for  potatoes  and 
butter,  two  dollars  for  Hour,  and  so  on  in  proportion, 
making  everybody  recognize  that,  if  life  was  worth  liv- 
ing, we  certainly  had  to  pay  dearly  to  sustain  it.  Fos- 
ter got  a  man  to  attend  his  store  by  the  name  of  William 
Slater,  who  afterwards  proved  to  be  an  out-and-out 
swindler,  preying  on  the  confidence  of  his  fellow  men. 
As  a  business  man  Slater  could  not  be  surpassed.  When 
a  customer  came  into  the  store  with  money  in  his  pock- 
et and  wanted  four  pounds  of  potatoes,  Slater  would  in- 
variably say  :  "You  might  as  well  take  five  pounds,  for 
I  have  no  change."  But  if  another  came  in  and  asked 
for  the  same  quantity  with  a  request  to  have  it  booked, 
he  would  say  in  his  suavest  manner :  "Would  two 
pounds  do  you  to-day  ?  You  know  I  am  nearly  run  out 
of  potatoes  and  want  all  to  have  an  equal  show."  No 
wonder  "Cut-Eye"  made  money,  with  such  a  commer- 
cial genius  in  his  employ. 

But  later  he  took  sick.  His  tent  aflbrded  but  a  poor 
shelter,  and  he  was  really  very  low.  He  sent  for  me 
to  come  over  and  see  him,  and  when  I  realized  the  pre- 
carious condition  in  which  he  was,  I  had  him  moved 
over  to  my  cabin,  gave  h'm  my  bunk  and  slept  on  the 


1  f 

l,iL., 

i 


¥■ 


78 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


i! 


floor.  My  partner  poked  fun  at  iiie,  and  said  I  was  too 
tenderhearted,  but  1  felt  that  it  would  have  been  in- 
human to  leave  him  where  he  was,  and  I  ])ut  up  with 
it  all.  I  merely  mention  this  matter  in  order  to  show 
Slater  off  in  bold  relief  later  on,  when  he  distinu^uished 
himself  in  a  somewhat  unexpected  manner.  At  all  events 
we  nursed  him  and  pulled  him  through  his  sickness,  and 
when  he  began  to  recover  he  made  himself  quite  popular 
with  our  company.  There  was  some  talk  about  going 
prospecting,  and  Slater  heard  us  discuss  the  chances  of 
sending  our  gold  down  below.  He  the'  gave  us  the 
startling  information  that  to  anybody,  who  knew  his 
way  about,  it  was  perfectly  easy  to  get  as  nmcli  as 
twenty-two  dollars  per  ounce.  This  very  much  excited 
the  boys,  who  had  never  dreampt  of  any  more  than  six- 
teen dollars,  and  from  that  day  Slater  was  looked  upon 
with  nmch  admiration  by  the  whole  crowd,  who  thought 
that  he  was  inside  the  ring  and  knew  the  ropes  and  hovv^ 
to  pull  them. 

The  miners  now  began  to  come  up  to  the  mountains. 
They  came  in  flocks,  so  to  speak,  like  migrating  birds, 
that  only  wanted  to  stay  for  a  season  and  then  return 
to  the  home-nest,  to  feather  and  fix  it.  Our  cabin 
was  a  happy  one,  and  no  one  was  ever  turned  away,  who 
asked  for  shelter  or  a  meal.  When  strangers  came  in 
so  thick  that  space  began  to  get  scarce,  we  would  crawl 
into  our  bunks  so  as  to  allow  them  room  enough  to  get 
in  and  warm  themselves  and  get  their  clothes  dried, 
before  proceeding  any  further.  Many  of  them,  more 
especially  married  men,  would  state  that  they  merely 
wanted  to  accumulate  two  or  three  thousand  dollars, 
and  then  they  would  go  back  home.  Such  talk  generally 
elicited  a  smile  on  our  part,  and  we  told  them  that 
five  or  six  thousand  dollars  would  not  satisfy  them,  and 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


79 


that  wlion  tliey  had  accmnulatod  that  niucli,  they  would 
think  less  about  ^oiiiij^  hoiiie  than  they  did  before. 

Those  who  were  camped  down  the  river  about  Cox's 
and  Goodycar's  Bar  beujan  stakinu^  ofl' claims  all  the  way 
up  to  the  Forks.  When  they  got  that  far,  they  would 
bei^an  to  explore  the  North  and  South  Forks,  and  think- 
int^  that  they  had  foi  d  something  better  still,  they 
would  drive  in  more  staKcs,  until  they  got  clear  out  of 
sight.  Then,  when  they  returned  to  their  first  claims, 
they  would  find  that  these  had  been  occupied  by  other 
parties,    and   thus  innumerable   disputes   would    arise. 

This  state  of  affair  was  an  unmistakable  sign  that  the 
hour  had  arrived  when  it  became  necessary  to  establish 
certain  laws  by  which  to  regulate  operations  in  these 
parts,  and  thus  it  was,  that  out  of  chaos  and  confusion 
grew  the  first  code  that  guided  the  dwellers  at  the 
Forks,  and  which  it  proved  very  hard  to  upset  or  alter, 
when  later  on  attempts  were  made  to  do  so. 


PI 


m 


CHAPTER  YUl. 

Adoptinf^  a  Code — Remarkable  ObKcrvations — The  Oh-be-joyful 
— Chaugiiif,'-  a  Name — A  Bit  of  Early  History — Samuel  Laug- 
tou — A  Ba<;(jf  (iold — Eti<|uette  in  the  Bar-room — Corn  Meal 
Fixin<,'H — Heading  the  First  Newspaper — I>ieeting  Jim  Crow 
— Phantom  Treasures. 

For  tlio  purpose  of  settling  tlie  matter  of  laws,  a  meet- 
ins^  was  called  at  Mr,  Kelly's  cabin,  a  series  of  resolu- 
tions was  passed,  establisliin<4  a  code  which  was  after- 
wards adhered  to,  and  things  went  smoothly  until  the 
advent  of  the  legal  fraternity.  It  would  liave  been  bet- 
ter by  far,  tor  the  miners,  if  the  lawyers  had  never 
reached  the  gold-iiiilds  of  the  Yubas.  They  came  there 
for  the  sake  of  "filthy  lucre,"  and  too  easily  they  wrung 
from  the  nuners  what  they  had  made  through  sheer 
hard  work.  In  tlu;  following  is  })resented  an  exact  copy 
of  the  minutes  of  the  meeting  referred  to,  with  Major 
Briggs  in  the  Chair,  and  C  A.  Russell  acting  as  Secre- 
tary. 

Forks  of  the  Yuba,  March  3d,  1850. 

"Met,  accorduig  to  agreement,  at  Mr.  Kelly's  cabin. 
Meeting  was  organized  by  the  a}){)ointment  of  Major 
Briggs,  as  Chairman,  and  C.  A,  Russell,  as  Secretary. 
Messrs.  T.  Sexton,  N.  Kelly  and  H.  A.  Russell,  com- 
mittee. 

Moved  and  seconded  that  the  report  of  the  commit- 
tee be  accepted. 

Resolved,  First. — That  ten  yards  be  the  amount  of 
each  claim,  extending  to  the  middle  of  the  river.  go 


wm 


HUNTING    1Y)R    GOLD 


81 


Second. — That  vavh  claim  he  staked,  and  a  tool,  or 
tools  left  upon  it. 

Third. — That  five  days  he  allowed  to  prepare  and  oc- 
cupy each  claim. 

Fourth. — That  noni;  l)ut  native  and  naturalized  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States  shall  be  allowed  to  hold 
claims. 

Fifth. — That  the  word  "native;"  shall  not  include  the 
Indians  of  this  country. 

Sixth — That    companies    dammini;    the   river,  shall 

hold,  each  individual,  a  claim,  and    have  a  ri<;ht   to   the 

bed  of  the  river  (below  low-water  mark)  as  far  as  it  lies 

dry. 

Seventh. — That  claims  be  in    conjunction    with    their 

dams. 

Eighth. — That   all    matters  of  dispute  be  settled  by 

referees. 

Ninth. — That  in  case  of  trial  for  crime   of  any  kind, 

there  shall  be  ten  present,  besides  the  jury  and  wit- 
nesses. 

Tenth. — That  sea-faring  men  in  possession  of  Ameri- 
can protection,  shall  be  allowed  claims. 

Eleventh. — That  whoever  shall  not  be  able  to  show 
his  papers,  shall  have  a  fair  trial. 

Twelfth. — That  this  code  of  laws  be  in  force  on  and 
after  the  fourth  of  March. 

Thirteenih. — Th^t  the  upper  Yuba  District  consist  of 
Goodyear's  Bar  and  all  above. 

Moved  that  this  meeting  adjourn  to  the  first  Sunday 

of  next  month. 

MAJOR  BRIGGS,  President. 
C.  A.  Russell,  Secretary. 

O.  S.  Sexton, 

N.  Kelly,  \  Committee. 

II.  A.  Russell, 


82 


HUNTINCr    FOR    COLD 


I    i 


I  made  a  very  reiiiarkablc  observation,  \vlii(;li  for 
sonic  time  [)uzzle(l  my  imaniiiatioii  and  to  tliis  day  re- 
mains unexplained.  1  was  working  a  claim  opposite 
(Jrayeroft's  sawmill,  and  it  was  (juite  a  common  occur- 
n^nce  to  find  heavy  gold  liiij^h  u[)on  the  baidi  ainonui'st 
loose,  black  dirt,  or  sticks  and  leaves.  I  saw  the  same; 
thing  afterwards  below  Breyfogle  Flat,  where  1  would 
find  loose  gold  as  far  as  thirty  feet  above  the  river. 
Without  asserting  that  gold  will  float,  I  am  at  a  loss  to 
account  for  its  })resence  in  these  j)laces,  if  it  liad  not 
been  carried  there  by  the  watcir  when  the  river  was 
swolen.  It  was  not  heavy  gold,  but  found  in  large, 
thin  scales,  and  I  saw  one  ))iec(3  tliat  measured  about 
an  inch  and  a  half  scjuare,  weighing  half  an  ou'ice.  1'his 
Haky  gold  would  frccpKiiitly  average  from  two  to  five 
dollars  to  the  {)an,  whih^  the  clay  in  the  same  location 
would  not  go  on(3  dollar  to  tin;   ()an. 

Owing  to  some  severe  weather  wc;  were  laying  off' for 
a  sj)ell,  and  it  was  decided  to  celebrate  this  occasion 
with  an  attack  upon  the  "Oh-be-joyful,"  and  sending 
out  a  general  invitation,  we  opened  proceedings.  l'"or 
some  time  we  ke})t  it  up  pretty  well;  life  took  on  a 
rosy  hue;  we  felt  satisfied  with  ourselves  and  everybody 
else,  and  we  drank  our  grog  in  the  Sierras  with  the 
same  relish  that  some  of  us  might  to-day  drink  cham- 
pagne at  Delmonico's.  But  after  awhile  it  was  advisa- 
ble to  stop  the  spree.  It  had  to  be  done  efiectually  and 
with  a  finishing  touch  worthy  of  the  occasion,  and  it  was 
suggested  that  we  should  drink  all  the  li((uor  to  be  had 
at  the  Forks.  We  sent  down  to  Slater  to  negotiate  for 
the  purchase  of  the  balance  of  his  grog  supply,  but  he 
replied  that  he  would  not  sell  wholesale,  as  he  had  only 
part  of  one  keg  left,  but  to  (oblige  as  he  was  willing  to 
let  us  have  what  he    could  spare.      Unawares  we   were 


i 


HrN'riN(V    FOK    CrOIJ) 


H'.i 


tlie  victinis  of  OIK!  of  our-  friend  .Jack's  tricks.  He  had 
already  bought  tlie  lot  from  Slater,  had  it  bottled,  and 
had  hidden  the  bottles  in  the  snow  behind  the  cal)in. 
By  and  by  the  boys  began  to  get  dry,  and  one  of  them 
suggested  that  he  would  pay  an  ounce  for  a  bottle,  and 
Jack  said  he  would  go  for  it.  On  his  return  he  re- 
marked that  it  would  be  possible  to  get  another  l)ottle 
or  two  for  the  same  price,  after  which  he  was  (juickly 
dispatched,  and  as  a  matter  of  course,  treated,  on  his 
return,  to  a  drink  of  the  precious  liquid.  In  this  man- 
ner Jack  made  quite  a  good  speculation,  and  for  every 
time  he  came  into  the  cal)in  with  a  couple  of  bottles,  he 
would  expatiate  upon  the  depth  of  the  snow  and  the  nu- 
merous difficulties  encountered  on  the  way,  while  as  a 
matter  of  fact,  he  had  been  only  a  few  yards  away  from 
the  cabin,  taking  the  bottles  out  of  the  snow. 

It  was  during  this  spring  that  the  name  of  the  Forks 
was  changed  to  that  ot  "Downieville."  By  this  time 
people  had  begun  to  accumulate  and  to  build  small  Ikjus- 
es,  cabins  or  shanties,  and  it  became  evident  that  the 
foundation  of  a  town  was  being  laid.  Men  began  to  or- 
ganize matters  ;  to  build  only  in  certain  positions,  and 
to  leave  space  for  future  streets,  which,  however,  so  far 
had  not  been  established.  A  man  called  Vineyard  came 
up  from  Goodyear's  Bar  and  staked  off'  a  lot  above  Cray- 
croft's  place  and  just  in  front  of  some  land  belonging  to 
James  Galloway.  He  left  only  seventeen  feet  for  the 
width  of  the  street,  and  this  so  much  annoyed  the  jieo- 
ple  in  the  neighborhood,  that  they  called  a  meeting,  and 
it  was  finally  decided  that  no  street  should  be  less  than 
twenty-six  feet  wide.  Mr.  Galloway  was  in  the  chair, 
and  there  was  quite  a  lengthy  discussion  as  to  the  width 
to  be  decided  upon.  When  it  was  all  settled,  Mr.  Gal- 
loway took  the  floor  and  made  a  s[)eech.     He  reminded 


!; 


II! 


Tr 


84 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


t   ; 


those  present  that  tliey  had  been  arjj^uin^*-  about  the 
width  of  the  streets,  and  yet  they  had  not  even  named 
the  town  they  were  about  to  found.  He  then  moved 
that  it  be  called  "Downieville,"  after  Major  Downie. 
Vineyard,  who  was  annoyed  at  his  defeat  in  regard  to 
the  width  of  the  streets,  objected.  He  proposed  to  call 
the  place  "Foster,"  but  u[»on  a  vote  being  taken,  he  was 
the  only  one  who  opposed  the  name  of  '*  Downieville," 
which  was  then  adopted  with  acclamation.  1  had  just 
returned  from  a  trip  down  the  river,  and  happened  to  en- 
ter the  room  as  they  were  all  shouting  themselves 
hoarse  for  ''Downieville,"  and  my  appearance  lent  new 
impetus  to  the  enthusiasm,  which  culminated  when  I 
called  all  hands  out  to  drink  to  the  success  of  the  new 
town. 

However,  for  S(nne  time  after-,  the  place  continued  to 
be  called  the  "  Forks,"  and  it  was  not  until  Mr.  (gallo- 
way was  made  Justice  of  the  Peace,  and  dated  his  writs 
from  "Downieville,"  that  the  little  town  became  official- 
ly known  by  that  name.  The  tirst  territorial  election 
under  the  constitution,  outside  the  cities,  took  place  on 
the  Istof  June,  1850.  Galloway  and  Vineyard  were 
l)oth  running  for  the  Justiceship,  and  as  Downieville 
was  entitled  to  two  Justices,  they  were  both  elected. 
They  had  made  an  agreement  that  the  one  who  received 
the  most  votes,  should  qualify.  It  proved  a  very  close  race 
for  the  office.  Galloway  received  496  votes,  and  quali- 
fied, his  opponent  receiving  492.  The  Justice's  jurisdic- 
tion extended  all  over  the  present  county  of  Sierra,  and 
took  in  some  outside  territory,  besioes,  and  the  nearest 
Court  to  this,  was  at  Foster's  Bar.  During  the  first 
year  Mr.  Galloway  tried  three  hundred  and  twenty-five 
cases,  ranging  in  cost  from  half  an  ounce  to  six  ounces, 
and  embracinof  crimes  and  ofi'enses  of  all  kinds. 


HUNTIN(i    FOR    GOLD 


85 


Frank  Cook  and  John  Capion  wore  Constables  at  the 
same  time.  Cook  at'tc^'waids  joined  the  police  force  iji 
Marysville,  and  later  became  Chief  ot  Police  there. 

But  I  must  go  back  a  little  in  my  account.     One  of 
the  results  of  our  gradual  development  was  the  appear- 
ance, at   our  camps,  of  expressmen,  or  mail-carriers  as 
they    should    more    properly    have  been  called.     These 
men  speculated  upon  our  isolation    by  bringing  us  mail 
from  Sacramento  at  such  prices  as  they  might  contract 
for  with    the  miners,    individually.     In  most  cases  the 
matter  never    went   beyond    a    "proposition,"    and    the 
advancement  of  certain  money  to  men  who  had  no  inten- 
tion   of  returning.     It    was,  doubtless,  the   memory    of 
this  dishonesty  that  afterwords  caused  many  to  distrust 
a  most  worthy  man,  who  came   up  to   fulfill  the  obliga- 
tions for  which  he  had  contracted.      This  man   was  Mr. 
Samuel  Langton,  and  the  accompanying  picture  gives  a 
life-like  representation  of  him  and  myself  as  we  appeared 
in  those  days.     I  am  represented  as  showing   him  some 
gold,  on   the   occasion,  and  he    as    bending    forward   to 
examine  it.    Many  a  time  have  we  sat  outside  that  cabin, 
giving  one  another  an  account  of  happenings  which  had 
taken  place  since  our  last  meeting.     And  to  few  men  do 
the  miners  of  the  early  days  on  the  Yuba,  owe  a  greater 
debt   of  gratitude,    than    to    Sam.     While  the  linlls  of 
Conirrcss   resounded  with    lon«jc-winded   speeches  about 
the    admission    of   (Jahfornia    to    the    Union;  while   we 
were  being  victimized  by  crafty  adventurers,  Sam    was 
climbing  tlu'  hills    with  his    little  budget  of  letters,  to 
make  the    miner,  in  his  l>rush  shanty,  glad  with    news 
from  home.      Summer  and  winter  he  toiled  away,  ever 
faithful  to  the  discharge  of  his  self-assumed  duties.       In 
the   scorching   sun,   across   swolen   rivers,    or   through 
mighty  snowdrifts,  Sam  Langton  made  his   way  to  our 


Mm 

m 

m 


u$\ 


u 


u 


< 
U 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


87 


camps,  bringinj:^  tidings  and  messages  that  were  looked 
for  with  im[)atieiK'e. 

It  liad  become  a  matter  of  ambition  with  a  great  many 
to  act  as  expressmen,  and  among  those  who  tliought 
themselves  particularly  fitted  for  the  position,  was 
William  Slater  He  gave  out,  all  along,  that  he  was 
going  to  outshine  the  rest,  and  when  he  once  got  started 
in  business,  he  certainly  succeeded  in  doing  so,  in  one 
sense,  Mr.  Lano-ton  became  the  agent  for  the  g^reat 
Express  firm  of  Adams  &  Co.,  and  opened  an  office  at 
Downieville,  but  it  took  him  quite  a  while  to  establish 
the  desired  confidence  in  the  concern.  I  remember,  on 
one  occasion,  meeting  a  miner  in  his  office,  who  was 
asking  innumerable  questions  as  to  the  mode  of  sending 
money  home.  Sam  explained  the  whole  matter  to  him, 
showed  him  a  draft  on  Adams  &  Co.,  which  he  would 
receive  on  depositing  the  gold,  but  the  miner  hesitated 
to  let  his  dust  go.  He  could,  evidently,  not  understand 
that  such  a  flimsy -looking  paper  could  be  good  security 
for  solid  gold.  He  objected  on  the  ground  that  the 
draft  looked  like  "shinplaster,"  and  that  the  bank  might 
"bust  up."  He  finally  left  with  his  gold.  When  he 
got  outside,  he  called  the  boys  up  to  have  a  drink,  then 
he  dived  into  the  chances  of  the  monte  bank,  and  by 
night  the  pile  was  gone,  which  might  have  rewarded 
him  for  honest  toil,  and  brought  relief  and  joy  to  those 
left  at  home.  I  have  heard  manv  useless  regrets  ex- 
pressed  by  the  miserable  victims  of  the  gambling-table, 
who  had  staked  their  money  on  the  wrong  card,  instead 
of  lea  vin  or  it  in  Sams  stron<x-box.  I  never  trambled, 
myself,  but  nevertheless,  truth  compells  me  to  say  that 
I  also  have  suftered,  though  somewhat  differently,  for 
refusing  the  services  of  an  honest  and  worthy  man 

During   the  spring  flour   went   down  in  price,  at  the 


til 

it 

.1  'r\\ 


1 


Mi 


88 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


i  w  ' 


Forks*,  and  I  boui^lit  one  thousand  pounds  and  had  it  ta- 
ken to  my  camp  on  the  South  Fork.  I  paid  a  dollar  a 
pound  for  it,  and  while  it  lasted,  it  was  common  proper- 
ty, and  whosoever  wanted  a  sack  was  welcome  to  it. 
On  the  day  when  it  arrived,  and  after  paying  the  packer, 
and  on  my  way  home,  I  was  overtaken  by  a  stranger-, 
who  held  a  huiX  of  if  old  in  his  hand.  He  insisted  that  I 
lost  it  while  pavnig  the  packer.  I  knew  he  was  mista- 
ken, and  told  him  so,  but  he  continued  tt)  iniiist  until  at 
last  I  stuck  it  in  my  belt,  until  I  should  find  an  owner. 
The  bag  was  a  heavy  one,  containing  some  five  or  six 
pounds,  but  I  thought  I  knew  who  had  lost  it,  and  kept 
it  by  me.  A  few  days  after  some  of  us  went  as  far  as 
the  store  kept  by  Messrs.  Wagoner  k  Chase,  who  at  the 
time  had  a  keg  of  brandy  going.  Several  people  came 
in,  and  among  them  was  my  man,  and  to  him  I  restored 
his  lost  property  Then  came  the  ([uestion  of  reward. 
It  was  not  an  individual  matter,  by  any  means  ;  it  mere- 
ly amounted  to  spending  one  ounce  out  of  six  pounds, 
to  treat  all  hands,  so  as  to  celebrate  the  recovery  of  the 
lost  irold  in  the  orthodox  manner.  At  that  time,  and 
with  those  surroundings,  a  "treat"  meant  the  expendi- 
ture of  one  ounce,  or  sixteen  dollars,  and  he  was,  indeed, 
looked  upon  as  a  very  mean  man  who  would  refuse  to 
follow  the  rule.  But  it  so  happened  that  the  stranger, 
belonged  to  this  penurious  class,  which,  it  nmst  be  ad- 
mitted, was  exceptionally  rare  in  the  diggings.  He  pos- 
itively refused  to  spend  more  than  half  an  ounce  on  the 
celebration,  and  as  we  had  a  reputation  to  sustain,  we 
advised  him  accordingly.  We  told  him  that  the  kind  of 
company  to  which  we  belonged  could  not  be  treated  in 
this  manner, — his  offer  was  an  insult  to  us,  and  he  could 
not  do  better  than  quit  the  premises  in  double-quick 
time,  which  he  did.     In  fact,    no  man  ever  went  out  of 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


89 


Wagoner  Si  Chase's  store  more  quickly  tlian  did  tliis 
fellow.  This  will  show  how  the  ideas  of  etiquette,  of 
usage  and  established  custom,  force  tliemselves  upon 
all  conunuities,  even  at  early  stages,  and  how  aristocrat- 
ic or  })lebeian  distinctions  find  a  place  there.  I  may  re- 
mark here,  that  the  rule  of  spending  one  ounce  on  a 
treat,  was  so  strictly  adliered  to  that,  when  there  hap- 
pened to  be  fewer  men  in  the  company  than  could  get 
away  with  the  liquor,  one  of  them  would  go  outside  and 
drum  up  assistance  from  the  passers-by,  or  neighbors. 

One  of  these,  who  came  up  to  engage  in  store-keep- 
ing during  that  spring,  was  a  Mr.  McGhee.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  usual  stock  of  provisions  and  liquors,  Mac 
also  brought  a  quantity  of  corn  meal,  and  as  this  was 
somethin<jf  we  had  not  known  for  many  months,  it  was 
appreciated.  McGhee  was  a  very  good  fellow,  and  he 
invited  us  to  come  over  to  his  store  and  see  him.  He 
was  located  about  where  the  St.  Charles  hotel  now 
stands,  and  he  proved  himself  a  most  excellent  host. 
He  treated  us  to  a  drink  which  he  called  "corn-meal- 
fixinfjs,"  and  I  think  he  was  the  inventor  of  it.  It  con- 
sisted  of  about  a  lialf  a  pint  of  brandy  and  water  with  a 
little  corn  meal  stirred  up  in  it,  and  when  the  cup  was 
passed  around,  the  unanimous  verdict  was  that  it  was  a 
most  excellent  drink.  He  had  to  go  some  distance  for 
water,  aud  not  infrequently,  when  he  left  us  for  that 
purpose,  we  would  help  ourselves  to  the  brandy,  and 
drinkincj  it  without  either  corn  meal  or  water,  and 
agreed  that,  barring  the  water,  it  made  just  as  good 
a  drink  when  partaken  of  neat. 

At  one  time  during  this  spring,  I  was  taking  it  easy 
for  a  few  days.  I  had  received  a  number  of  books  and 
papers  and  spent  all  my  time  in  perusing  them  Some 
men  came  up  to  my  cabin  and  told  me  that  the  Kanakas 


I 


h 


•III  1 


90 


HUNTIXO    FOR    GOLD 


r   < 


had  struck  it  ricli  at  the  head  of  Indian  Creek,  and 
uri^ed  me  to  come  with  them.  I  nmst  a(hnit  tliat  I  was 
not  eager  to  go.  My  newsi)apers,  which  by  thr  way 
were  the  first  ever  riiad  at  tiie  Forks,  engrossed  all  my 
attention,  and  I  was  somcswhat  doubtful  as  to  the  truth 
of  the  report.  However,  I  ultimately  consented  to  go 
with  them,  and  j)acking  up  a  few  New  York  Heralds 
and  provisions  for  three  or  four  days,  I  got  ready  to 
start.  Of  course  it  would  not  do  to  leave  'till  after  dark, 
for  fear  of  otliers  following  us.  There  were  about  a 
dozen  of  us,  and  we  presented  an  appearance  very  much 
like  a  number  of  jail-breakers,  as  we  made  our  way  in  the 
dark,  "coonini;  the  log,"  and  creepiuij^  throuijh  the  brush 
as  silently  as  possible.  We  supj)osed,  for  sometime,  that 
we  were  the  only  ones  in  the  secret,  and  were  therefore 
surprised,  when,  after  beginning  to  climb  the  hill  on  the 
other  side  of  Breyfoyle  Flat,  we  overtook  a  party  of  five, 
who  were  nud-cin*;  for  tli(^  mvsterious  dio-oinirs,  Thev 
were  waitin<»'  for  one  of  their  number,  who  had  irone  back 
to  fetch  a  few  bottles  so  as  to  get  up  sufficient  steam  for 
the  ascent.  We  pushed  on,  and  just  as  day  was  begin- 
ning to  peep  over  the  hills,  we  came  u{)on  another  party, 
bouml  for  the  same  diggings.  They  were  melting  snow 
for  breakfast  and  we  certainly  thought  that  they  wonld 
be  the  last  competitors,  we  should  fall  in  with  on  the 
road,  but  just  as  we  came  to  the  summit  of  the  hill,  we 
overtook  another  party,  traveling  for  dear  life  to  get  in 
first. 

At  last  we  arrived  at  the  place  of  our  destination,  and 
we  all  made  for  the  ravine  wliere  the  gold  was  said  to 
be.  But  great  was  my  surprise,  when  on  my  way  to 
that  place,  I  met  Jim  Crow.  He  was  at  the  head  of  the 
Kanakas  and  held  full  sway  over  them.  The  place  had 
already  been  named  Crow  City,  and  the  canyon  is  to  this 


HrNTIN'C.    FOR    OOLD 


01 


day  known  as  Jim  Crow  Canyon.  The  wliolc  afl'air  was 
well  not  up,  and  tli.ey  had  already  a  very  perfect  organi- 
zation, with  laws  and  reyulations  to  (»'uid(3  them,  and 
over  forty  white  men  had  [)ledged  themselves  to  extend 
to  the  Kanakas  the  some  riu^hts  that  they  enjoyed. 

In  regard  to  Jim  Crow,  he  seemed  even  more  sur- 
prised than  I,  at  our  meeting,  and  told  me  a  pack  of  lies 
to  exf)lain  his  singular  conduct  in  leaving  us  in  the  lurch 
last  fall,  but  the  fact  remained  that  he  really  intended 
to  make  his  way  back  to  our  old  camp,  expecting  to  find 
us  all  starved  to  death  and  probably  our  gold  left,  ready 
to  be  taken  away;  at  all  events,  a  rich  field  to  work  in. 
I  never  (jould  understand  how  Jim  raised  money  for  the 
outfit  he  was  bossing  on  this  occasion,  after  having  spent 
all  he  took  away  from  our  camp,  but  it  is  possible  tliat 
the    "Blue  Tent"  people  could  tell  a  tale  in  tliis  respect. 

The  di<j:ginj/s  here  did  not  bv  far  answer  to  the  great 
anticipations  entertained  of  them.  I  for  my  own  part 
took  it  easy.  I  read  my  papers,  and  at  once  saw  through 
the  game,  and  made  up  my  mind  not  to  excite  myself 
We  camped  against  a  huge  log,  the  slope  being  so  steep 
that  this  was  the  only  way  in  which  we  could  obtain  any 
comfort,  and  when  I  had  finished  reading  my  papers 
I  returned  to  my  own  camp. 

Many  of  those  who  had  come  there,  enticed  by  the 
rumors  of  great  riches,  were  loth  to  leave.  They  had 
an  idea  that  the  Kanakas  were  only  waiting  for  the  white 
pet)ple  to  vacate,  and  then  they  would  plunge  into  the 
very  richest  places.  Altogether  there  prevailed,  at 
that  time,  a  singular  superstition  in  regard  to  black  or 
colored  men.  They  were  looked  upon  as  "mascots," 
and  it  was  a  common  belief  that  they  had  luck  in  seek 
ing  for  gold.  While  in  their  company,  Dutch,  English, 
French,  or  any  other  nationality,  alike  felt  sure    of  the 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


2.5 


S   1^    1111120 


12.2 


1.4 


1.6 


V] 


<^ 


/2 


% 


'V' 


7: 


'/ 


S 


92 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


tu 


**(leacl  wood."  But  my  experience  with  Jim  Crow  was 
such  as  to  shake  my  faith  in  the  race,  and  I  made  my 
way  back,  perfectly  satisfied  to  leave  them  behind. 


OFF   TO   THE   DIUUINyS. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


An  Unfortunate  Family — A  Company  of  Sailors — After  "Old 
Dowuie" — Single  Men  and  Married  Men — William  Slater's 
Exit — A  Note  Due  Over  Forty  Years — Law  and  Lawyers — 
"Uncle  Jimmie" — A  Discourse  About  Drinking — My  Claim 
was  (rone — The  Eighth  Commandment. 

I  cannot  proceed  without  saying  a  few  more  words 
about  Sam  Langton  and  his  family.  They  came  from 
Washington  City  and  met  with  a  fate  in  CaHfornia  which 
was  absolutely  tragic.  They  were  rich  and  influential 
at  one  time,  but  the  heavy  failure  of  the  Adams  Express 
Company  practically  ruined  them  financially,  and  tlie 
family  is  now  almost  extinct.  Sam  Langton  was  killed 
in  Virginia  City  by  a  fall  from  his  carriage;  a  younger 
brother  died  in  poverty  in  San  Francisco  some  years 
ago;  and  another  brother — Tom  Langton — was  sent  to 
the  insane  asylum  at  Stockton,  but  has  since  so  far  re- 
covered as  to  hold,  at  present,  an  official  position  at  that 
institution.  One  of  the  sisters  pined  to  death  grieving 
for  the  loss  of  her  husband,  a  noted  Mountain  express 
rider,  who  lost  his  life  in  the  execution  of  his  duty;  and 
the  widow  and  daughter  of  Sam  Langton,  perished  a  few 
years  ago  in  an  avalanche  at  the  Sierra  Buttes. 

Although  I  continued  to  keep  my  headquarters  at, 
what  I  will  hereafter  call  Downieville,  I  spent  the 
greater  part  of  my  time  prospecting  in  various  parts  of 
the  surrounding  country.  I  nmst  admit,  that  as  I  now 
remember,  I  am  surprised  at  the  haste  we  often  exhibi- 
ted in  leaving  claims  that  paid  us  well,  for  strange  loca- 

93 


ii 


M  ' 


94 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


tions  and  uncertain  chances.  It  was  a  common  occur- 
rence for  us  to  leave  claims  paying  from  three  to  four 
ounces  per  day,  or  even  as  much  as  a  pound,  and  pick- 
incf  our  blankets  over  the  mountains,  with  the  sun  beat- 
ing  on  our  backs  and  snow  blinding  our  eyes,  in  search 
of — we  hardly  knew  what  ourselves.  But  there  are 
circumstances  over  which  men  seem  to  have  no  control, 
cdthough  they  are  created  by  themselves,  and  so  in  those 
days  the  life  of  the  miner  was  a  restless  one  ;  the  alluring 
hope  of  greater  treasures  led  him  on  and  on,  and  in  too 
many  cases  he  became  like  the  rollins*-  stone  that  lifathers 
no  moss,  Hope  too  often  ajipeared  like  the  will-o-the- 
wisp — a  mere  phantom  that  led  us  astray. 

My  company  usually  consisted  of  Scotch  or  English 
sailors.  They  would  come  to  San  Francisco,  generally 
from  Australia,  and  desert  their  ships  to  make  for  the 
mines.  When  they  arrived  there,  they  would,  for  some 
reason,  frequently  cast  their  lot  with  me,  and  after  a 
time,  the  "Major's"  company  became  prettjMvell  known. 
It  seems  strange  that,  although  I  was  a  sailor,  like 
the  rest,  and  at  all  times  moderate  in  partaking  of  liquor, 
the  boys  who  followed  me  were  nearly  always  a 
hard  drinking  lot.  On  Saturday  nights  we  would  re- 
turn to  Downieville  to  celebrate  our  success,  or  try  to 
forget  our  disappointments.  On  such  occasions,  the 
tlowinsjc  bowl  would  not  be  left  on  the  shelf,  and  as  a 
rule,  the  "boys"  would  divide  their  attention  between  it 
and  the  gambling  table,  and  often  spend  as  nmch  as 
three  or  four  thousand  dollars  before    Monday  morning. 

Roving  about  the  country  as  much  as  I  did,  and  meet- 
ing with  a  good  deal  of  success  at  prospecting,  I  gratlu- 
allv  became  known  throuohout  the  i^^old-fields  of  the 
Yuba.  It  was  no  uncommon  thing  for  men  to  at- 
tempt  to    watch    my    movements,  or  even    plan    some 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


95 


means  of  robbing  nie  of  iny  wealth,  and  I  have  had  sev- 
eral strange  adventures  in  this  way.  I  was  prospecting 
at  one  time  with  John  Bell,  and  we  were  cooking  our 
dinner,  when  I  saw  three  men    comin<jj  alons^  in  our  di- 

'  or? 

reetion.  They  were  covered  with  dust,  and  their  clothes 
had  been  torn   in    the   thick   chapparal  through    which 


AFTER  OLD  DOWNIE 


they  had  made  their  way.  The  perspiration  stood  in 
large  beads  on  their  foreheads,  and  they  could  hardly 
speak  for  want  of  breath. 

"What's  your  hurry  ?"  I  inquired. 

One  of  the  men  threw  down  his  pack,  and  winked  his 


i 


96 


HUNTING    FOR    COLD 


eye  as  he  said  in  a  half  whisper  :  "We  are  after  old 
Dovvnie." 

"The  devil  1"  I  ejaculated.  "What's  the  matter  with 
him  ?" 

The  stransrer  became  more  mysterious.  At  ui^t  he 
did  not  wish  to  speak,  but  I  finally  u^ot  out  of  him  that 
"old  Dow nie"  had  just  made  his  way  down  the  moun- 
tain with  a  mule  carrvins:  a  sack  of  nold. 

I/O  »~ 

"When  was  he  last  seen  ?''  I  asked,  greatly  amused  at 
the  whole  afi'air. 

But  to  this  I  could  get  no  other  reply  than  a  vague 
allusion  to  the  "Bald  Mountain"  and  the  "Lone  Tree," 
which,  together  with  the  "Gold  Lake,"  formed  parts  of 
the  myth  of  those  regions.  They  were  supposed  to  be 
places  where  fabulous  treasures  might  be  found,  but 
their  various  locations  were  not  generally  known.  When 
a  miner  had  struck  it  rich,  and  his  companions  did  not 
know  where  he  had  got  it,  it  was  put  down  as  one  of 
the  places  referred  to.  There  was  nothing  very  singu- 
lar in  this,  when  it  is  borne  in  mind  that  every  move 
was  made  with  the  utmost  secrecv,  and  miners  them- 
selves,  as  a  rule,  refused  to  speak  of  their  finds.  In  re- 
gard to  the  men  in  pursuit  of  myself,  I  will  simply  re- 
mark that  had  their  story  been  true,  and  they  had  met 
"Old  Downie"  on  a  mule  carrying  a  sack  of  gold,  I 
have  no  doubt,  judging  from  their  somewhat  uncouth 
appearance,  that  they  would  have  forced  me  to  sur- 
render all,  or  part  of  it,  or,  at  all  events,  to  reveal  the 
location  whence  it  came. 

In  selecting  my  men  for  prospecting  purposes,  I  al- 
ways preferred  single  men.  Benedicts  had  too  often 
proved  themselves  a  nuisance  to  me,  and  I  had  no  use 
for  them.  They  would  whine  about  their  wives  ;  won- 
der how  their  children  were   getting  along  ;    speculate 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


97 


upon  the  possibilities  of  a  speedy  return  ;  and  at  night, 
when  we  bachelors  rolled  ourselves  in  our  blankets  and 
slept  the  sleep  of  the  just,  they  would  grunt  and  groan, 
and  pray  and  weep,  and  gaze  at  the  stars,  and  make 
themselves  unfit  for  the  work  on  hand.  A  pater  fnmil 
iaa  is  a  noble  being  in  his  right  sphere,  but  in  the  gold 
diggings,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  he  appeared  to  me 
entirely  out  of  his  element,  and  I  religiously  evaded  him 
whenever  1  could. 

Trade  was  flourishing  at  Downieville  as  the  season 
advanced.  ''Judge"  Paxton  opened  a  store  on  Jersey 
Flat,  and  William  Slater  was  doinii^  a  rushino;  but^iness 
in  whisky.  He  contemplated  a  trip  to  Sacramento  for 
a  large  supply  oi' goods.  In  our  camp  we  had  not  for- 
gotten Slater's  statement  in  regard  to  the  value  of  gold- 
dust,  and  we  all  afjreed  that  now  was  the  chance  to 
make  money.  So  we  dug  up  our  bags  and  gave  them 
to  Slater  to  take  down  with  him.  We  considered  that 
it  was  somewhat  difficult  to  count  with  twenty-two, 
which  was  the  number  of  dollars  promised  us  per  ounce, 
and  so  aojreed  to  allow  the  two  dollars  on  each  ounce,  to 
Slater.  In  addition  to  this,  I  made  up  a  bag  of  speci- 
mens, all  fine  nuggets,  weighing  over  two  pounds,  and 
told  him  to  send  it  as  a  present  to  his  wife  in  the  States, 
and  so  we  bade  Slater  ''Farewell"  and  "God  speed." 
This  was  Slater's  debut  as  an  express  messenger,  and 
he  took  with  him  about  ^25,000  worth  of  gold.  We 
have  never  since  seen  the  man  we  had  nursed 
through  his  sickness  ;  whose  store  we  had  patronized  ; 
and  upon  whose  honesty  we  had  implicitly  relied.  Sla- 
ter never  stopped  until  he  reached  San  Francisco,  and 
from  there  he  shipped  directly  for  his  eastern  home. 
Sometime  after  a  man  came  up  to  the  Yuba  to  try  his 
luck.     He  had  met   Slater   on    the   Isthmus,   and    had 


-J 


1:' 


08 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


f  ' 


I  ■ 


been  advised  by  hii..  to  go  up  our  way.  Slater  had  spo- 
ken kindly  of  us  all,  and  in  particular  urged  liini  to 
look  u})  the  "Major,"  whom  he  had  described  as  one  of 
the  best  fellows  in  the  world,  ready  to  do  all  in  his  power 
to  assist  a  stranger.  And  this  splendid  recommenda- 
tion we  got  for  our  hospitality,  our  confidence  and  our 
gold,  and  it  took  us  quite  a  while  to  persuade  the  new- 
comer that  a  man  who  had  spoken  so  warmly  of  us  all, 
could  have  treated  us  so  badly  as  did  Slater. 

There  were  many  who  thought  that  "Cut-Eye"  Fos- 
ter had  combined  with  Slater  to  rob  us  of  our  money, 
but  I  believe,  on  the  contrary,  that  he  was  one  of  Sla- 
ter's victims,  Foster  was  not  so  bad  as  thev  made  him 
out  to  be.  I  have,  already,  to  some  extent,  dwelt  upon 
his  character.  I  am  well  aware  that  he  was  not  over- 
troubled  with  conscience,  and  that  he  did  not  hesitate 
to  drive  strange  stock  to  his  rai.ch,  if  it  chanced  to  mix 
with  his  own,  but  such  irregularities  were  not  regarded 
as  serious  offenses  in  those  days,  and  the  men  who  com- 
mitted them  did  not  consider  themselves  thieves,  what- 
ever the  sufferers  may  have  thought.  He  had  a  pro- 
pensity for  borrowing  money,  and  I  believe  owes  more  to 
his  friends  than  any  other  man  I  have  known.  I  have 
held  his  note  for  over  forty  years,  for  a  sum  which, 
with  the  accumulated  interest,  would  now  amount  to 
something  over  a  million  dollars.  Some  years  ago  I  met 
him  up  north,  where  he  was  farming,  and  he  offered  me 
his  ranch  and  several  horses,  but  I  was  on  my  way  to 
the  Idaho  diggings,  and  making  a  "raise"  there,  1  re- 
fused his  offer.  One  of  Foster's  good  points  was  his  na- 
tive generosity.  If  A  miner  in  needy  circumstances  ap- 
plied to  him,  he  received  what  he  asked  for,  and  if 
he  happened  to  be  unable  to  pay  the  debt,  Foster  did 
not  v/orry  him  about  it.       Foster   was   also   very    kind 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


!)9 


toward  strangers  who  were  taken  srck,  and  more  tlian 
once  kept  men  in  his  camp  wlio,  without  liis  assistance, 
would  have  died  from  hunger,  exposure  and  disease. 
Surely,  charity  should  cover  a  multitude  of  sins,  and  with 
all  his  faults,  "Cut-Eye"  was  by  no  means  a  bad  man. 

I  have  touched  upon  the  advent  of  the  legal  talent, 
and  the  influence  it  had  on  the  comnmnity.  As  a  mat- 
ter of  course,  the  lawyers  came  as  t^oon  as  the  election 
had  given  a  Justice  of  the  Peace  to  Downieville,  and  the 
number  of  suits  brought  during  the  first  year,  will  show 
that  there  was  no  fear  of  them  starvinir.  One  of  the 
earliest  suits  brought  was  caused  by  a  dispute  over  a 
claim,  belonging  to  "Uncle  Jinimie."  "Uncle"  played 
a  conspicuous  part  in  the  early  days  of  Downieville.  He 
was  a  shrewd,  sharp  business  man,  who  never  let  an  op- 
portunity escape,  when  a  gain  could  be  made.  He  ran 
the  Gem  saloon:  and  it  was  a  <j:einl  He  had  a  monte 
table  going  day  and  night  and  treated  all  strangers  who 
came  in,  and  he  had  a  very  char  idea  of  the  persuasive 
powers  of  grog.  With  him  the  adage  was,  "one  drink  of 
brandy  makes  the  whole  world  akin,"  and  he  used  it  as 
a  maxim,  by  which  he  greatly  ])r()fited.  Tlie  claim  in 
dispute  was  located  on  the  upper  end  of  Jersey  Flat  and 
extended  into  the  river  to  low-water  mark.  The  river 
was  flumed,  and  for  this  reason  the  line  of  demarkation 
was  not  very  distinctly  defined,  and  on  the  day  of  the 
trial  the  jury  and  witnesses  were  called  upon  to  closely 
examine  into  the  situation.  Uncle  was  up  to  the  occa- 
sion. His  proverbial  liberality  came  to  the  front,  and 
he  put  up  a  free  bottle  at  the  Gem.  Jury,  witnesses 
and  everybody  else,  took  advantage  of  the  opportunity 
to  get  free  drink,  and  by  the  time  the  examination  was 
over,  the  tramping  of  feet  in  the  sand,  and  the  efl'ect  of 
the   grog  on  their  visual  organs  had  made  it  an  impossi- 


I 


100 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


It     i 


l)ility  to  discern  the  line  of  so  much  legal  importance,  and 
the  verdict  was  given  in  favor  of 'Uncle  Jimmie"  That 
niijht  there  was  a  bii;  time  at  Downiovillc,  anda  jj^eneral 
"jamhoree"  took  place.  There  was  nothing  mean  ahout 
the  hmdlord  of  the  Gem.  He  had  won  the  suit,  and  he 
was  willing  to  expros  his  satisfacti(jn,  according  to  the 
rules  erf  the  community.  The  drawing  of  the  corks 
was  a  thing  unknown  in  those  quarters,  the  necks  of 
the  bottles  being  simply  knocked  off,  and  uncle  was  an 
expert  in  thnt  line. 

And  what  a  scene  to  behold! 

"Brandy  or  Champagnei^"  called  "Uncle,"  and  the 
desired  drink  was  forthcominGr. 

"Fall  back  all  you,  who  have  just  had  a  drink  and  let 
the  "boys"  have  a  chance." 

"Get  out  on  the  street  somebody,  and  tell  all  hands 
to  come  in,  Uncle  is  just  going  to  stand  another  basket." 

Such  was  the  talk,  and  the  liquor  flowed  in  an  endless 
stream,  and  men  drank  till  they  reeled,  and  even  then 
Went  on  drinking.  And  vet,  there  must  be  something 
in  drinking,  which  is  sublime,  for  I  find  in  the  ancient 
mvthologies  that  even  the  Gods  of  the  Greeks  and 
Norsemen  held  \u<yh  carnival  with  mead  and  wine,  and 
they  were  not  ashamed  to  let  drink  master  them  at 
times.  And  yet  both  these  races  were  brave,  bold  and 
intelligent,  and  they  have  both  had  a  great  deal  of 
healthful  influence  on  the  further  development  of  the 
world.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  miners  of  the  early  days 
were  a  sturdy  lot.  They  indulged  in  drinking  at  times,  it 
is  true,  but  they  bore  hardships  and  endured  privations 
at  other  times,  with  a  fortitude  which  made  them  heroes, 
and  at  the  sacrifice  of  comforts,  often  of  health  or  even 
life,  they  helped  to  make  the  world  richer,  if  not  happier. 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


101 


Naturally  a  great  many  lawsuits  were  brought  about 
through  disputed  claims,  but  the  losers  never  seemed  to 
take  their  defeat  much  to  heart.  "Let  her  rip  I"  was 
the  usual  exclamation  when  a  man  was  told  that  he  had 
lost  his  claim.  The  revel  went  on  all  the  same,  and  the 
man  without  a  claim  would  soon  get  another.  There 
was  plenty  of  gold  up  and  down  the  Yuba,  in  tht)se  days, 
and  yet  I  met  men,  right  in  the  hey-day  of  the  gold  dis- 
coveries there,  who  were  making  for  the  American  riv- 
er, asserting  that  the  gold  was  all  dug  up  on  the  Yuba. 

I  had  a  lawsuit,  myself,  at  one  time,  with  some 
fellows  who  came  from  the  South  Yuba,  attempt- 
ing to  take  possession  of  Downieville  by  jumping 
claims,  and  they  ultimately  called  a  public  meeting 
for  the  purpose  of  introducing  new  laws.  But  in  this 
they  failed.  Our  code  had  proved  entirely  satisfactory, 
so  far,  and  we  did  not  propose  to  let  these  strangers  run 
our  affairs.  They  then  changed  their  tactics  and  jumped 
all  the  claims  of  the  "foreiirners,"  and  anionic  others, 
mine.  But  I  soon  vindicated  my  rights  as  an  American 
citizen,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  I  was  born  in 
Scotland  and  "proud  of  the  land  that  gave  me  birth" 
My  accusers  were  fined  fifty  dollars  and  costs,  but  what 
ever  became  of  that  monev,  1  never  could  learn,  and 
suspect  that  it  was  sunk  in  ale.  This  beverage  had  been 
introduced  in  Downieville  during  the  summer  of  fifty. 
It  came  in  bottles,  and  soon  became  a  very  popular 
drink,  and  I  remember  beinij:  in  court  when,  durinir  the 
sitting,  several  adjournments  were  had  for  the  purpose  of 
of  indulging  in  bottled  ale.  In  those  days  attorneys 
could  not  speak  as  fluently  as  they  can  to-day,  without 
a  draught,and  a  bottle  of  ale  seemed  to  have  a  magic  effect 
upon  them.  The  Judge,  himself,  enjoyed  the  amber 
fluid  as  much  as  any,  and  the   only  reason   it    was   not 


r 


' 


j( 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


103 


partaken  of  in  the  court  room,  so  as  to  save  ^o;n<^  out, 
was  tlie  fact  that  his  Honor  ol)je(.'ted  to  the  slops  on  liis 
tahle,  and  so  preferred  adjournin*^  court. 

The  claim  I  had  recovered  hy  law,  I  sold  shortly 
afterwards  to  a  young  married  man  called  "Bonney." 
His  wife  lived  in  the  States,  and  he  was  anxious  to 
return  as  soon  as  possible,  with  some  kind  of  a  fortune. 
As  he  did  not  have  much  money,  I  sold  him  the  claim 
on  easy  terms.  He  was  to  trive  me  two-thirds  of  the 
proceeds,  as  they  came  out,  until  he  had  paid  for  it.  I 
do  not  recommend  this  as  a  u^ood  way  of  disposing  of  a 
claim,  and  on  the  present  occasion  I  certainly  became 
the  loser. 

My   customer    had  every  reason  to  be  satisfied.     For 

two  or  three  days  he  paid  my  share  conscientiously,  and 
this  amount  ran  over  a  thousand  dollars  per  day,  but 
then  I  had  to  leave,  on  a  prospecting  tour.  I  was  away 
for  about  two  weeks,  and  when  I  returned  the  bird  had 
flown.  My  eastern  friend  was  making  for  home  with  a 
pocket  full  of  money,  and  had  disposed  of  my  claim  to 
somebody  else.  I  lost  not  only  a  splendid  claim  but  two 
tents  that  were  on  it,  a  supply  of  cooking  utensils,  two 
gold-scales  and  a  number  of  other  things,  which  I.  had 
left  there  with  full  confidence  in  the  honesty  of  th^  man, 
to  whom  I  had  sold,  I  made  up  my  mind  that  hence- 
forth I  would  have  no  dealings  with  married  men,  and 
I  trust  my  reader  does  not  blame  me. 

In  these  days  we  had  neither  locks,  bars  nor  bolts  on 
our  doors,  and  sometimes  indeed,  we  were  duly  prevented 
from  indulirins:  in  such  luxuries  throuyjh  the  entire  ab- 
sence  of  the  door  itself  The  burglar  alarm,  as  we  un- 
derstood that  term,  to  use  a  legal  phrase  came  "after  the 
the  fact."  It  was  a  process  without  the  expenditure  of 
county  money,  it  chiefly  concerned  the  robbers   individ- 


104 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


ually,  and  the  sequence  was  in  nearly  all  instances 
certain  death.  There  were  no  extenuatino;  circunistan- 
ces  to  bo  advanced,  when  the  crime  was  theft.  I  remem- 
ber one  day  coming  past  a  rock  upon  which  lay  a  buck- 
skin puj.se,  stuffed,  and  to  all  appearance,  containing 
probably  a  thousand  dollars  in  dust  There  was  nobody 
in  siijtht,  but  I  doubted  not  that  the  ri^jhtful  owner  was 
in  hiding  somewhere  near,  and  I  passed  by  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  road,  feeling  sure  that  anyone  attempt- 
ing to  touch  that  purse,  would  be  immediately  intro- 
duced to  Judge  Lynch.  It  is  true  that  we  were  not  alto- 
gether a  pious  settlement,  but  for  obvious  reasons  we 
kept  the  eighth  commandment  for  all  it  was  worth,  and 
it  may  be  that  if  matters  were  dealt  with  in  the  same 
manner  to-day,  there  would  be  less  thieving  than  there 
is.  The  penal  code  of  the  early  days  in  the  mining 
camps,  was  undoubtedly  severe,  but  it  was  wonderfully 
effective. 


I 


CHAPTER  X. 

A  Spree  for  a  Tip — Our  Social  Couditious — The  Glorious  Fourth 
— A  Dinner  at  Galloway's — A  Fight  for  Blood — A  Speeds- 
Trial — Thirty-nine  Lashes — Big  Logan — A  Singular  Suicide — 
Prospecting  with  Kanakas — A  Rough  Journey — Verdant 
Pastures. 


As  a  matter  of  course  our  prospecting  tours  could  not 
always  be  attended  with  succees,  but  we  took  care  to  ap- 
pear, on  our  return,  as  if  we  had  achieved  satisfactory 
results.  I  remember  once  being  away  for  some  time  and 
bringing  up  at  Charlie  Simmons'  on  my  return,  while 
the  "boys"  went  down  to  Downieville.  We  had  not 
been  very  lucky,  but  we  did  not  propose  to  make  that 
anybody  else's  business.  The  *boys,"  as  usual,  wanted  a 
spree  after  their  hardships,  but  not  having  made  it,  they 
did  not  feel  inclined  to  spend  their  money,  and  Joe,  one 
of  the  cfowd,  cast  about  for  some  cheap  manner  in  which 
to  celebrate  their  return  The  opportunity  soon  pre- 
sented itself  The  hombres,'''  who  were  naturally  a 
curious  lot,  were  in  the  habit  of  inviting  returning  pros- 
pectors to  their  cabins,  treating  them  to  drink  and  then 
would  attem^pt  to  pump  them.  It  was  of  this  custom 
that  our  friend  Joe  took  advantage  for  the  benefit  of 
hi^nself  and  his  mates. 

Being  invited  into  a  cabin,  they  were  first  offered  a 
few  drinks,  and  then  the  questioning  began.  Joe  pre- 
tended to  be  getting  confidential.     He  gave  a  knowing 

*  A  Spanish  word  meaning  companion,    here   used    as  meaning 
certain  classes  of  the  miners. 


J 


I 


I 


106 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


[ 


li 


;    1 


wink,  and  intimated  that  by  and  by  he  would  tell  them 
something  worth  knowing.  More  grog  was  passed  out, 
and  such  of  the  "boys"  as  had  not  yet  been  asked  to 
come  in,  were  called  up,  and  it  was  suggested  that  Joe 
should  reveal  his  secret ;  but  he  told  them  not  to  be  in 
a  hurry.  Brandy  flowed  fast  and  freely,  and  everyone 
went  to  bed  half-seas  over,  to  get  up  and  resume  the 
spree  next  morning.  Their  entertainers  thought  that, 
no  doubt,  Joe  would  tell  them  if  his  speaking  organs 
were  properly  lubricated,  and  their  faith  in  the  "Major's" 
luck  was  great.  In  the  course  of  the  day  the  question 
was  again  put  to  Joe.  "Keep  dark,  and  I  will  tell  you,'' 
he  said.  "Not  a  word  about  this  !  Do  you  understand  ? 
Nobody  must  know  where  you  get  it  from." 

"You  need  not  fear,'^  came  back  the  answer.  "Do  you 
think  1  would  be  such  a  fool  as  to  mention  it  ?" 

"I  don't  know  when  the  'Major'  is  going  out  again, 
but  I  am  ojoing-  with  him.  when  he  does  oo.  It  is  rich  : 
you  bet  it  is  rich  !" 

"Well,"  said  the  expectant  host,  "how  nmch  ?" 

Joe  had  a  way  of  speaking,  which  inspired  confidence. 
He  put  both  hands  on  the  shoulders  of  his  interrogator, 
looked  him  straight  in  the  eyes  and  said,  in  an  under- 
tone : 

"Just  $500  to  the  pan." 

The  eyes,  cheeks  and  mouth  of  the  listener  expand- 
ed into  an  expression  of  supreme  satisfaction.  "And 
where  is  it  ?"  lie  stammered,  trying  to  fill  his  lungs,  from 
which  the  breath  had  almost  escaped.  Joe  put  his  mouth 
to  the  fellow's  ear  and  whispered  the  direction,  an  entirely 
imaginary  one,  as  the  location  only  existed  in  Joe's 
inventive  brain ;  but  the  information  was  well  worth 
more  drink,  and  a  protracted  spree  followed,  after  which 
the  hombres  stole  out  of  camp  in  the  dead  of  night  and 


;!■  > 
it 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


107 


made  for  the  newly-discovered  diggings  ''over  the  hills 
and  far  away." 

My  narrative  now  takes  me  up  to  the  time  when,  for 
the  second  time  in  th-e  far  West,  I  should  celebrate  that 
greatest  of  American  festivals,  the  Fourth  of  July.  My 
reader  will,  no  doubt,  remember  my  brief  mention  of 
this  celebration  when,  as  a  new-comer,  I  had  only  been 
in  San  Francisco  one  week.  Strange,  indeed,  did  the 
scenes  appear  to  me  then,  as  they  unfolded  themselves 
before  my  wondering  gaze,  but  as  I  remembered  the  past 
year,  what  scenes  far  stranger  still,  lay  before  me,  in 
many  of  which  I  had  played  a  most  important  part, 
I  had  imagined,  when  I  left  San  Francisco,  that  1  should 
spend  my  near  future  in  the  (juietude  of  isolated  places, 
but  I  had  found,  as  time  passed  by,  that  one  of  the  main 
arteries  of  the  world's  great  heart  throbbed  with  quick 
pulsation  in  the  very  surroundings  where  T  had  lived 
and  toiled  in  suffering,  or  in  the  enjoyment  of  life.  I 
had  seen  the  most  varied  phases  of  life — men,  with 
many  thousands  of  dollars  within  easy  reach,  starving 
for  the  want  of  food,  and  others  living  on  the  charity  of 
their  fellow-men  for  want  of  means;  and  I  had  seen 
men's  passions  rise  until  they  carried  away  reason  and 
made  human  brutes  of  those  who  felt  their  sway.  There 
were  many  well-known  scenes  that  greeted  me  in  the 
retrospective  view  of  that  one  year,  and  while  some  of 
them  were  terrible  to  behold,  there  were  manv  others 
pleasing  enough,  reminding  me  of  happy  moments  spent 
in  congenial  company  or  among  men  whose  motto  was: 
''Begone,  dull  carel" 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  men  are  moulded  by  cir- 
cumstances. They  assume  characteristics  according  to 
the  circumstances  that  surround  them.  The  lawyer,  the 
soldier,  the  scientist,  are  all  different  in  their  modes  of 


1 1 


"I 

all 

i\ 

I 


i 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


109 


thinking  and  their  ways  of  acting.  The  sailor  is  blunt; 
the  tradesman  suave  and  respectful.  The  California 
|)i()neer  miner  was  a  being  entirely  distinct  from  any  of 
his  fellow  beinofs.  He  was  rouyrh,  darinor,  indefatigable 
The  nature  in  which  he  lived,  and  the  object  for  which 
he  toiled,  made  him  so.  But  he  was  also  generous,  often 
to  lavishness.  He  knew  what  it  meant  to  suffer  want, 
and  he  did  not  wish  anyone  else  to  experience  it.  He 
often  made  a  fortune  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  and 
the  value  he  placed  upon  it  was  small  and  in  proj)ortion 
to  the  brief  space  of  time  it  took  him  to  accumulate  it. 
His  associates  were  drawn  from  all  classes,  but  on  the 
gold-field  in  the  early  days,  everybody  was  on  the  same 
level.  Class  distinctions  crept  in  later  on,  it  is  true,  but 
they  were  not  known  among  the  earliest  pioneers,  and 
when  they  came,  they  appeared  in  the  same  garb  as  they 
do  to-day  under  our  present  conditions— the  garbof  **one 
man-richer-than-tlie  other." 

Early  in  the  history  gf  California  mining,  various  ele- 
ments crept  in  which  tended  to  degrade  and  demoralize 
the  community  to  some  extent.  The  grog-vendor  and 
the  monte-banker  became  responsible  for  much  trouble. 
Men  who  counted  money  of  so  little  value,  ai«.  did  many 
of  these  miners,  were  not  calculated  to  resist  temptation, 
when  thrown  in  their  way  as  the  only  recreation  obtain- 
able, and  as  a  result,  irregularities  followed.  But  the 
reckless  spirit  of  that  period  prompted  the  comnmnity  to 
make  short  work  of  the  offenders.  I  have  shown 
already  how  we  made  our  own  laws,  but  sometimes  the 
court  was  spared  any  trouble  in  the  matter  through 
immediate  action  on  the  part  of  the  crowd  or  offended 
parties;  and  if  a  criminal  went  into  court,  the  jury  under- 
stood the  desire  of  the  public  and  gave  a  verdict  accord- 
ingly.    In  all  such  cases  the  severest  punishment  was 


i 


IH  ^ 


i 


110 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


n 


I 


Ml 


!! 


fV 


fji 
SI 


meted  out,  and  lynch-law  often  resorted  to.  It  was  the 
natuml  outcome  of  conditions  which  called  for  strict  and 
decisive  measure  as  the  only  means  of  subduing  a  spirit 
of  lawlessness  and  a  tendency  to  crime,  and  above  all, 
theft  and  nmrder  were  vigorously  prosecuted,  and  in 
either  case,  death  was  almost  the  inevitable  sequence. 
I  have  made  the  above  remarks  with  a  view  to  explain, 
and  to  some  extent  excuse  some  of  the  more  strikinjx 
occurences  that  took  place  at  Downieville  in  the  early 
days. 

Everything  looked  festive  when  the  sun  appeared 
over  the  lofty  Sierras  on  that  4th  of  July  morning.  On 
Jersey  Flat  and  up  and  down  the  Yuba,  all  around  the 
Forks  wherever  tent  or  cabin  served  as  habitation,  the 
Stars  and  Stripes  had  been  exhibited,  denoting  enthu- 
siasm— not  only  on  the  part  of  native  Americans,  but  on 
the  part  of  the  many  who  had  sworn  allegiance  to  the 
flag,  and  under  its  protection  were  seeking  to  make 
themselves  and  the  world  richer.  As  a  matter  of  course, 
the  store-keepers  were  kept  busy,  as  the  day  wore  on. 
Wherever  there  was  a  kefj  containinsr  stronof  drink, 
clusters  were  gathered  within  or  without,  as  space  would 
allow,  and  men  took  turns  to  get  to  the  counter  and 
drink  to  the  glorious  Fourth.  Where  one  year  ago  the 
timid  deer  gazed  on  the  verdant  meadow,  undisturbed, 
save  for  the  casual  appearance  of  some  Indian  hunter, 
echoed  on  this  day  hundreds  of  jubilant  shouts,  while 
the  miner  forgot  his  toil  and  his  tools  lay  idle  on  the 
deserted  claims.  The  Downieville  of  to-day,  presents  a 
very  different  appearance  from  what  it  did  then,  and  I 

doubt  if,  with  all  the  national  enthusiasm  that  fires 
its  present  loyal  inhabitants,  it  would  be  possible  to  get 
up  as  much  steam  for  a  Fourth  of  July  celebration,  as 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


111 


we  did  on  this,  our  first  observance  of  the  national  holi- 
da}"  in  those  (juarter^i. 

At  Galloway's  an  elaborate  dinner  was  prepared.  It 
was  not  served  a  la  Rasse  or  in  the  so-called,  French 
style,  there  were  no  gilt-edged  menu  cards  to  tell  us 
what  the  next  course  would  be;  neither  were  we  waited 
upon  by  men  in  swallow-tails  and  white  shirt  fronts;  nor 
did  we  drink  wine  from  crystal  goblets  but  we  had 
the  best  that  could  be  procured  where  money  was  no 
object,  and  where  the  only  impediments  were  the 
distance  from  the  market  and  the  difficulties  of  iifettinsf 
there.  Mrs.  Galloway  had  prepared  the  dinner,  and  it 
was  pronounced  "fit  for  a  prince."  Bottled  ale  played 
an  important  part  on  that  occasion,  and  it  was  varied 
with  something  stronger  of  different  kinds.  The  company 
became  animated  and  toast  followed  toast.  We  drank 
to  the  Star  Spangled  Banner,  to  George  Washington 
and  the  galaxy  of  states — men  and  soldiers  who  had 
shared  the  laurels  with  him,  to  the  American  nation  in 
general  and  the  constitution  in  particular;  to  absent 
friends  and  to  everything  and  anything  else  that  it  was 
possible  to  toast. 

Meanwhile  the  carousing;'  had  been  jjoing:  on  in  other 
parts  of  the  settlement,  and  in  the  afternoon  men  began 
to  get  hilarious.  Shots  were  fired  from  guns  and  pis- 
tols, and  the  racket  increased  until  the  general  tunmlt 
and  excitement  assumed  dimensions  which  could  hardlv 

t/ 

be  exceeded  by  a  modern  celebration,  when  fire  crackers, 
brass  bands  and  processions  are  brought  into  action. 
Then  occurred  the  first  incident  of  which  I  am  about  to 
speak. 

Two  men,  who  had  been  indulging  in  the  fiery  liquid 
until  their  brains  became  giddy,  had  a  quarrel.  It 
passed  from  words  to  blows,  and  the  fight  became  furi- 


N 


^    1 

1  i 

1    ! 

i 
1 

i\ 


112 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


,  f ' 


f. 


H: 

1 

i 

M,. 

1 

Wl 

m    ; 

'■    '' 

ous.  In  the  heat  of  passion  one  of  tlieni  drew  a  knife^ 
and  before  his  adversary  could  ward  oti'  the  thrust,  or 
by-standers  interfere,  he  sunk  it  deep  into  his  oppo- 
nent's body.  The  blood  spurted  out,  as  the  wounded 
man  sank  to  the  ground.  The  wound  did  not  prove  a 
daiiijferous  one,  but  at  the  time  no  one  knew  the  extent 
of  the  injury  done,  and  the  sight  of  blood  inflamed  the 
crowd  with  any^er  towards  the  man  who  did  the  stab- 
biny-.  He  was  seized  and  bound,  and  while  a  few  attend- 
ed  to  the  wounded  man,  the  miscreant  was  at  once 
brought  to  justice.  He  was  comparatively  a  stranger 
and  no  doubt  thoUii:ht  that  in  these  rouoh  surroundinLTS 
the  use  of  a  knife  was  in  order.  But  the  jury  saw  no 
extenuating  circumstances  which  could  excuse  him,  and 
he  was  sentenced  to  thirty-nine  lashes  on  the  bare  back. 
There  was  no  reason  to  postpone  the  execution  of  jus- 
tice, and  while  the  slanting  rays  of  the  midsummer  sun 
fell  upon  the  scene,  and  the  hot  air  filled  the  valley  with 
an  ahnost  stifling  atmosphere,  the  wretched  man  was 
brought  out  to  receive  his  punishment.  He  was  tied  hand 
and  foot  to  a  slender  tree,  and  the  fioij^ginyj  infiicted  with 
a  stout  strip  of  rawhide.  It  was  a  sickeninu'  sij^ht  to 
behold.  "Big"  Logan,  who  wielded  the  instrument  ot 
torture,  was  a  large,  limscular  man,  whose  sinewy  arms 
denoted  enormous  strength.  He  was  a  sailor  by  occupa- 
tion, but  had  lately  driven  an  ox  team  across  the  plains, 
and  was  well  practiced  in  the  use  of  a  whip,  and  more- 
over he  was  a  cousin  of  the  injured  man.  It  may,  there- 
fore, be  easily  understood  that  he  performed  his  task  in  a 
manner  which  would  have  done  credit  to  any  Siberian 
executioner,  of  whom  Kenna  or  Paradyce  has  written. 
The  unfortunate  culprit  writhed  in  agony,  as  the  heavy 
strokes  fell  upon  his  body,  which  became  more  and  more 
lacerated  by  each  blow  that  ta.])ped  the  blood  from  his 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


113 


veins,  and  at  last,  Logan  secniod  the  only  man  in  the 
crowd  who  was  entirely  unmoved  by  the  horrible  spec- 
tacle. 

Thijs  same  Loo-an  was  an  extraordinary  man.  He  will 
be  mentioned  later  on,  as  playing  a  jn-ominent  part  in 
another  dramatic  occurrence  which  took  place  one  year 
later,  but  I  cannot  here  refrain  from  savins^  a  few  words 
concerniny:  his  own  remarkable  career  and  end. 

He  was  seemingly  a  man  entirely  void  of  any  nobler 
sentiments.  Sympathy  seemed  strange  to  him,  and  fear 
he  did  not  know.  He  was  cool,  indifferent  to  circum- 
stances, strong  in  the  knowledge  of  liis  own  physical 
power,  and  a  giant  in  proportions,  yet  he  was  not 
vicious,  except  his  passions  were  aroused,  when  he  became 
ferocious.  What  other  men  shrunk  from,  he  could  do 
in  cold  blood  without  flinching,  and  therefore  he  was 
repeatedly  called  upon  to  act  as  executioner  when  the 
sentence  of  the  law  demanded  one.  He  performed  his 
task  with  neither  hesitation  nor  pleasure  ;  he  simply 
seemed  to  do  it  because  he  was  a.sked  to  do  it,  just  as 
he  would  have  lent  a  man  a  tool,  or  otherwise  accommo- 
dated him,  if  requested  to  do  so. 

Still,  for  some  reasons,  I  think  that  Logan  had  a  liking 
for  revolting  scenes,  and  concealed  his  satisfaction  under 
a  cloak  of  assumed  indifference.  When  afterwards 
Walker  got  ready  for  his  famous  Nicaragua  expedition, 
liOgan  enlisted  in  his  battalion  and  went  with  him.  It 
was  while  fi*jhtinfy  a  savao;e  foe  in  those  reo^ions,  that 
Logan  volunteered  to  pass  in  his  checks  rather  than  to 
allow  himself  to  be  taken  prisoner,  and  perhaps  be  sub- 
jected to  some  such  tortures  as  he  had  inflicted  upon 
others  without  flinching.  It  is  hard  to  say  whether  he 
was  prompted  by  courage  or  cowardice,  but  when  he 
saw   himself  surrounded    by   the    enemy,    instead    of 


I  I 


1 


lU 


HUNTINO    roR   (iOLD 


surrundorin^,  ho  diseni^'-aijjod  tlio  bayonet  from  liis  rifle;, 
and  [)icrciiiL»-  his  <>\vii  licart  with  it,  tell  dead  at  the  feet 
of  his  captors. 


CATCHINO    BREAKFAST    ON    THE   YUBA. 

This  was  the  strange  end  of  a  remarkable  man.     He 
was  repulsive   rather  than  otherwise,  but  the  singular 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


115 


Tiianner  of  his  deatli  threw  a  halo  over  his  niomcry, 
which  in  the  eyes  of  many  raised  him  to  a  hero. 

But  I  return  to  my  story  of  the  4tii  of  July.  The 
excitement  continued  till  far  into  the  nioht.  The  tioij- 
gini]f  scene  was  soon  forgotten  by  everybody  except  the 
culprit,  and  "Big"  Logan,  who  was  treated  by  all  his 
admirers  who  ap})reciated  his  nerve  and  herculean 
strength.  The  miners  drank  in  bumpers,  while  the  gold 
Hew  over  the  counters  in  the  stores  where  grog  was 
dispensed.  The  keeper  of  the  monte  table  called  for 
attention,  and  fickle  fortune  was  tempted  while  the  night 
passed  on,  and  the  day  of  liberty  had  been  spent  in  a 
manner  worthy  of  its  cause,  proving  that  morally  and 
physically,  the  celebrants,  with  one  exception,  knew 
neither  shackles  nor  fetters. 

It  may  be  remarked  in  connection  with  this,  that  the 
flogging  of  that  day  had  a  remarkably  healthy  influence 
on  our  comnmnity.  The  miners  had  established  a  prec- 
edent, and  whenever  anybody  flourished  a  knife  in  an 
angry  moment,  it  was  merely  necessary  to  remind  him 
of  what  happened  on  the  Fourth  of  Jul}',  and  for  a  long 
time  the  eflTect  of  such  a  reminder,  was  simply  magical. 

About  this  time  I  had  opened  a  store  on  Kanaka  Flat, 
in  partnership  with  a  man  named  H,  B.  Cossitt.  He 
was  to  run  the  store,  while  I  went  prospecting,  for  the 
in-door  life  of  store-keeping  was  not  according  to  my 
taste.  I  was  nearly  always  traveling  about,  looking  for 
new  diggings,  and  was,  as  a  rule,  very  fortunate  in  pros- 
pecting. Among  the  men  who  belonged  to  my  company, 
was  a  Kanaka  who  went  by  the  name  of  John  Wilson. 
He  spoke  but  imperfect  English,  but  he  was  fond  of 
telling,  us  in  his  best  lingo,  that  in  his  own  country  he 
was  a  Prince  and  looked  upon  with  much  reverence. 
When  addressing  us,  he  would  strike  his  breast  and  say: 


I 


IIG 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


i! 


"Mc  prince  in  my  own  country;  nie  u^n-at  man;  me  very 
l)ii^  iiuin  at  iiomc."  It  would  seem  that  this  darU-iiued 
min(!r  was  roallv  a  incmbor  of  the  illustrious  Kamehaine- 
lia  family,  and  I  have  been  told  that  lie  was  afterwards 
unidc  Kinij  of  the  Sandwii'h  Islands.  I  do  not  know 
liow  far  this  statement  is  true,  hut  he  is  by  no  means 
the  oidy  man  with  whom  I  have  worked  in  the  mines, 
whether  white  or  colored,  who  claimed  close  relationship 
with  famous  men,  and  at  times  succeeded  to  prominent 
positions  in  the  world.  He  was  one  (mt  of  many  of  this 
class  who  came  to  the  gold-fields  to  find  out  thnt  birth 
and  associations  did  not  lielp  a  man  to  discover  gold,  and 
who,  after  spending  many  weary  months  in  blasting  rocks 
or  damming  rivers,  without  finding  the  color,  have  at 
last  come  to  the  conclusion  that  Dame  Fortune  chooses 
her  favorites  independently  of  their  rank. 

It  was  getting  on  towards  the  Fall,  and  I  thought  I 
Would  make  one  more  prospecting  tour,  before  the  season 
closed.  I  took  four  Kanakas  with  me,  and  left  Kanaka 
Flat  with  a  donkey  packed  with  provisions  sufficient  to 
last  us  for  a  few  weeks.  My  ambition  was  to  get  to  one 
particular  mountain,  situated  near  the  pass  at  the  head 
waters  of  the  South  P^ork,  as  I  expected  to  find  plent^'of 
gold  there.  The  mountain  was  shaped  like  the  roof  of  a 
liouse,  and  summer  and  winter  its  summit  was  covered 
with  snow.  I  did  not  think  tb.at  it  was  very  far  distant, 
but  discovered,  'ere  long,  that  my  judgment  was  consider- 
ably at  fault.  It  is  altogether  remarkable  how  the  chap- 
paral  will  deceive  in  the  matter  of  distances.  One  may 
think  himself  fast  approaching  a  towering  mountain,  and 
suddenly  discover  that  he  has  miles  to  travel  before 
reaching  it,  and  I  have  often  in  this  manner  been  re- 
minded of  the  journey  of  life,  where  we  are  always  look- 
ing ahead  to  some  sunny  spot  before  us,  wliich  seems  con- 


Lia 


hi'ntinh;  for  c.om) 


117 


tinually  to  recede,  as  we  advance.  Our  journey  proved  full 
of  ditiiculties.  We  crossed  the  Nortli  Yuha  and  kept  u\) 
tlie  divide,  until  we  caiue  to  the  meadows,  ai)()ut  where 
Jackson's  ranch  now  stands,  but  after  tliat  our  trcuhles 
increased.  The  Cha{)[)aral  was  iu  some  i)laces  impcne- 
trahle,  and  our  donkey  «»ot  stuck,  pack  and  all,  and  we 
liad  to  cut  him  out  with  hatcliets  and  make  a  way  for 
him,  and  tliis  o[)eration  was  not  unhke  the  cuttinj^ 
tlirou«j;h  the  ice  to  f^et  a  ship  out  of  the  Hoes.  At  other 
times,  in  descending  UKJuntains,  the  decHvity  would  he  so 
steep  that  the  poor  brute  could  not  walk  down.  Then 
we  liad  t(^  un[)ack  its  burden  and  lower  it  over  the  shelv- 
ing rock,  and  afterwards  rope  the  donkey  down;  and  this 
same  operation  we  reversed,  when  ascending  a  similar 
stuep  incline.  One  night  we  camped  on  one  of  these 
shelves.  Darkness  had  come  u{)on  us,  and  we  could  not 
safely  proceed.  We  had  no  water,  but  far  below  our  feet 
we  heard  the  rushinu;  of  the  mountain  stream,  babblin<r 
its  lullaby  to  us  in  a  tantalizing  manner,  while  we  had 
nothing  with  which  to  quench  our  thirst.  But  privations 
in  those  days  had  become  a  matter  of  usage,  and  they 
were  soon  forgotten.  Camped  in  such  places,  the  "boys" 
generally  invented  some  kind  of  sport  asa  divertisement, 
and  it  was  a  common  thing  to  see  them  setting  fire  to 
the  moss  on  the  bark  of  the  trees  and  watch  the  blaze 
run  up  to  tlie  top  of  the  mighty  trunk.  Or,  if  it 
were  daylight,  they  would  loosen  rocks  and  bowlders  and 
send  them  crashiuir  down  the  mountain  side.  I  have 
seen  them  prying,  four  or  five  at  a  time,  at  some  huge 
bowlder,  and  when  it  rolled  down  with  ever-increasing 
force,  they  would  watch  it  with  the  same  interest  as  the 
sports  watch  a  horse-race. 

At  last  we  reached  our  mountain,  and  as  we  traveled 
round    it,  it   assumed    all    sorts  of  shapes,  but  the  gold 


I   Mi. 


I 


118 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


'I 


■  B 


';  i 


which  we  expected  to  find  lying  loose  on  the  surface 
was  not  there,  although  there  was  plenty  of  slate  and 
black  sand  and  (quartz,  and  I  still  believe  that  there  is 
gold  there,  although  we  did  not  find  it. 

Our  provisions  were  now  getting  scarce,  and  we  were 
afl'raid  of  being  overtaken  by  the  winter  storms,  so  we 
made  for  home.  We  kept  on  the  outskirts  of  the  chap- 
parel  and  passed  through  meadows  and  the  most  luxur- 
ious pastures.  On  Wolf  creek  we  found  gold,  and  there 
fell  in  with  Mr.  Fugent  and  my  old  friend,  Jack  Smith, 
who  were  prospecting.  From  th-^re  I  went  down  to 
Downieville,  more  particularly  to  report  the  discovery  of 
pastural  land,  and  then  returned  to  my  store  on  Kanaka 
Flat. 


Hit 


iii 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Another  Winter  in  the  Mountains — Captain  Thomas  R.  Stoddarc^l— 
Two  "Well-known  Millionaires — Fifteen-Hundred  Dollars  a  Day 
— Gold  on  the  Wagon  Tires — Sleeping  on  a  Fortune — Fluni- 
ing  a  River — Poorman's  Creek — Back  to  Downieville — Ten 
Bits  to  the  Pan — Rantedodler  Bai' — Sunday  Reminiscences. 

Let  me  briefly  take  my  readers  throug^h  the  winter  of 
*50  '51.  It  wasduring  that  period  that  some  of  the 
richest  treasures  hidden  in  California  soil  were  unearth- 
ed, and  our  company  was  undoubtedly  instrumental  in 
creating  that  tremendous  excitement  which  in  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  swept  over  the  diggings  in  our  part  of  the 
world,  and  caused  many  miners  to  abandon  their  claims 
to  go  in  search  of  other  and  better  chances. 

The  Yuba  began  to  look  bare,  as  the  fall  advanced. 
At  Kanaka  Flat  the  sable  hunters  became  more  scarce, 
as  they  went  below  for  the  winter,  and  I  regret  to  say, 
most  of  them  without  settlinijf  their  bills  at   our    store. 

I  had  been  in  a  similar  position  before,  and  when  I 
desired  to  move  away,  had  simply  settled  all  accounts  by 
burning  my  books  and  giving  the  balance  of  my  stock 
away,  as  I  never  allowed  myself  to  cry  over  spilt  milk. 
On  the  present  occasion,  my  partner  went  down  to  Marys- 
ville  to  see  about  a  fresh  supply  of  stores,  and  I  got  ready 
to  look  for  other  digjii^inofs. 

I  had  in  my  company  at  that  time,  a  few  old  stand- 
bys — men  on  whom  I  could  rely,  and  who  had  been  with 
me  all  along,  with  one  exception.  They  were  Charlie 
Thompson,  "Dutch"  Harry,  little  Mike  Duvarney  and 
Captain  Thomas  R.  Stoddard.     The  latter  was  compa.- 


119 


120 


HUNTINCi    FOR    (iOLD 


il 


ntivelv  a  ncw-coiiior  a.nioiio"st  us.  Ho  was  a  roiiiarkablc 
man.  and  played  a  puculiar  part  in  tho  early  history  of 
California  mininLf.  Mor(3  than  any  other,  ho  eontril)uted 
towards  the  sensation  caused  by  tho  rumors  of  the  "Gold 
Lake"  diirsjfiiiixs,  to  which  reference  has  already  been 
made.  He  insisted  that  lie  had  been  there,  and  lie  told 
some  romantic  tales  of  encounters  with  Indians,  and 
showed  a  scar  below  his  knee,  where  the  Redskins  had 
wounded  him  with  an  arrow.  He  also  told  how,  on  his 
rii''ht  from  them,  he  had  made  his  way  across  the 
mountains  and  the  middle  Yuba,  but  his  accounts  were 
incoherent,  and  in  some  respects  appeared  im})rol)al)le. 
He  was  possessed  of  a  gentlemanly  bearin_L»',  and  of  more 
than  ordinary  education,  and  undoul)tedly  belonged  to  a 
good  family.  But  my  impression  is  that  he  was  not 
mentally  well  balanced.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  miners 
had  a  dislike  for  him  because  of  his  singular  stories, 
which  had  disappointed  the  hopes  of  a  good  many  of 
them,  and  I  had  taken  hhy-.  into  my  company  partly  for 
the  purpose  of  protecting  him.  He  would  often  say, 
when  we  struck  anything  particulai'ly  rich,  "At  Gold 
Lake  w^e  would  not  consider  this  worth  picking  up." 
But  the  location  of  this  w<)nderful  place  remained  forever 
a  mystery. 

I  was  determined  to  try  my  luck  in  Plumas  county, 
and  got  everything  ready  for  a  start,  and  v/ith  my  com- 
pany and  a  couple  of  horses  made  my  way  across  the 
mountains  to  the  north  of  Downieville.  We  met  with 
the  usual  hardships,  and  found  Sear's  Diggings  aban- 
doned, tho  miners  having  left  after  tho  first  storm. 
There  were  only  two  cabins  on  the  field  at  that  time, 
and  in  one  of  these  deserted  habitations  wo  found  a 
quantity  of  fiour  which  had  been  left  in  the  hurry  of 
departure. 


ii! 


!ii 


122 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


We  took  the  trail  for  Poonnan's  Creek,  and  found 
that  nearly  everybody  had  left  for  the  winter.  But  we 
decided  to  make  our  camp  here,  so  we  located  a  claim 
on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  creek,  below  the  first  fall, 
and  were  soon  taking  out  plenty  of  gold.  We  found  the 
precious  metal  in  big  lumps,  weighing  from  one  pound 
to  twenty-five  ounces,  and  set  to  work  to  build  a  cabin 
in  this  El  Dorado.  Not  longj  after  we  were  settled, 
Messrs.  Flood  and  O'Brien  called  at  our  camp.  They 
had  been  prospecting  in  the  locality,  but  had  not  found 
any  of  the  lum})s,  and  were  surprised  when  we  showed 
them  our  find.  They  remained  for  a  few  days  with  us, 
and  then  left  for  parts  unknown,  but  their  phenomenal 
success  in  later  years,  makes  up  for  their  disappointment 
on  Poorman's  creek,  when  they  made  a"ten-strike"in  the 
silver  mines  of  Nevada,  the  celebrated  Comstock  lode, 
as  did  also  several  old-timers  of  the  Yuba  diooinorg  ^ 
train  of  fifty-three  pack  mules  came  up  about  this  time 
with  provisions,  and  I  was  glad  to  give  some  of  our 
lumpy  gold  in  exchange  for  the  whole  stock,  after  whieji 
we  built  a  cabin  and  made  ourselves  comfortable  for  the 
winter. 

We  had  every  reason  to  be  satisfied,  as  we  were  tak- 
ing out  from  ten  to  fifteen  hundred  dollars  a  day,  but 
yet,  we  often  discussed  the  next  move  to  be  made  with 
the  return  of  spring.  The  wonderful  tales  that  Captain 
Stoddard  used  to  tell,  made  some  of  us  wish  to  try  and 
find  Gold  Lake,  or  at  all  events,  some  other  spot,  richer 
still  than  where  we  were  located  ;  but  our  prospecting 
fever  reached  its  climax  long  before  we  expected. 

One  day  two  men  found  their  way  down  the  creek, 
and  like  all  stragglers,  made  a  bee-line  for  Major 
Downie's  cabin.  We  found  them  there  on  our  return 
that  evening.     They  were  making  themselves  comfort- 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


123 


able  by  the  fire,  and  soon  proved  very  agreeable  fellows. 
They  stayed  with  us  for  several  days,  and  saw  the  rich 
gold  we  took  out,  and  when  thoy  became  familiar 
enough  to  impart  a  secret,  they  told  us  of  a  wonderful 
"strike"  they  had  made  in  coming  over  the  mountains. 
They  described  the  location  fully,  and  told  us  that  they 
had  found  surface  gold  in  lumps  so  large  that  they  had 
hammered  tliem  on  the  wagon  tires.  They  stated  that 
as  they  did  not  know  much  about  gold,  they  were  not 
sure  whether  they  had  really  struck  it  or  not,  but  their 
description  left  no  doubt  in  our  minds  that  they  had 
found  the  genuine  article. 

We  all  listened  eagerly  to  their  accounts,  and  even  Cap- 
tain Stoddard  began  to  think  that  the  fabulous  riches  of 
Gold  Lake  had  been  surpassed.  As  to  myself,  I  admit 
that  I  was  staggered  by  tlieir  accounts.  I  gave  them  a 
good  deal  of  consideration,  and  it  seemed  to  me  that 
these  strangers  must  have  discovered  the  fountain-head 
of  all  the  lumpy  gold  in  these  p'arts.  I  imagined,  and 
with  some  reason,  that  our  late  finds  were  merely  the 
tail-end  of  an  auriferous  comet,  so  to  speak — the  nucleus 
of  which  might  be  found  somewhere,  and  probably  existed 
exactly  where  our  visitors  indicated  ;  and  building  up 
up  such  a  theory  in  my  own  mind,  I  determined  to  find 
the  place.  It  was  arranged  that  my  partner,  Mr,  Cos- 
sitt  should  open  a  store  on  the  creek  as  a  stand-by,  while 
I  went  in  search  of  the  treasure. 

At  Downeiville  I  made  up  a  company  of  six,  among 
whom  were  Dr.  Young  and  Henry  Cosair.  We  went 
north,  crossing  Little  Canyon  Creek,  but  when  we 
got  to  Big  Canyon  Creek,  there  was  no  way  of  getting 
over  but  by  wading.  It  was  very  cold.  The  snow  lay 
upon  the  mountains,  and  the  water  that  came  down  was 
chilled  with  it ;  but  we  had  no  alternative,  and  so  we 


II  n ' 

1 1 


n 


\    :  i 


I 


124 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


stripped  and  waded  in  up  to  our  armpits  in  snow-water, 
carrying"  our  packs  on  our  heads.  Truly  tlie  magnetic 
pole  has  no  greater  power  over  the  needle  of  the  compass, 
than  has  gold  ov^er  the  desire  of  man,  and  in  those  days 
the  pioneer  miners  would  dare  and  do  anything  for  the 
lust  of  it.  On  the  opposite  shore  we  had  to  make  our 
way  over  frozen  snow.  The  incline  was  steep,  and  we 
were  often  obli«jfed  to  cut  our  foot-holds  in  the  snow,  but 
we  braved  the  difficulties,  and  at  last  reached  the  Red 
Mountams. 

We  soon  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  we  were  on  a 
wild-goose  chase.  All  our  prospecting  failed  to  reveal 
the  expected  treasures,  and  the  chisel,  which  one  of  our 
party  had  brought  for  the  purpose  of  breaking  the  large 
lumps  with,  proved  superfluous.  The  gold  (]uarry,  of 
which  we  were  in  search,  could  not  be  found,  and  we 
turned  our  steps  towards  the  North  Yuba,  this  time 
crossing  Canyon  Creek  without  trouble.  None  of  us  had 
any  fault  to  find.  We  had  become  used  to  disappoint- 
ments of  this  kind,  and  when,  that  night,  we  camped  at 
the  Buttes,  we  were  perfectly  resigned  to  our  fate,  and 
took  our  disappointment  in  good  part. 

Our  camping  ground  was  on  the  site  where  now  stands 
the  Buttes  Mill,  and  when  we  awoke  in  the  morning, 
and  looked  about  to  examine  the  location,  we  were 
agreeably  surprised  to  discover  that  we  had  been  sleep- 
ing on  a  particularly  rich  spot.  The  place  was  a  small 
Flat  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  ravine,  and  all  around  we 
found  large  pieces  of  quartz  mixed  with  gold,  which 
appeared  in  considerable  quantities.  As  soon  as  we  had 
ascertained  our  good  luck,  I  got  out  pencil  and  paper  to 
write  out  a  notice,  when  I  was  stayed  by  Henry  Cosair, 
who  drew  my  attention  to  the  fact  that  a  number  of  men 
were  making  their  way  down  the  ravine.     Sure  enough,, 


I 


% 

[ 

1 

> 

HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


125 


there  was  a  party  of  miners,  headed  by  a  man  named 
Leonard.  As  usual,  they  had  followed  the  "Major's" 
track,  trusting  that  they  might  share  in  some  of  the 
proverbial  good  fortune  which  was  supposed  to  always 
attend  him.  We  then  decided  to  withdraw  for  the 
time-being,  and  moved  our  camp  higher  up  the  ravine. 

Our  stratagem  however,  proved  in  vain.  We  took  it 
easy,  and  the  men  settled  down  to  play  at  bean  poker, 
but  the  other  company  took  possession  of  our  rich  find. 
They  picked  up  the  gold  that  we  had  found,  and,  to  make 
a  long  story  short,  although  we  were  the  first  white  men 
to  ascend  tlie  Sierra  Buttes,  we  did  not  get  anything 
for  our  trouble.  The  news  of  the  discovery  traveled 
quickly  abroad,  and  for  days  kept  the  miners  on  the 
neighboring  fields  in  a  fever  of  excitement,  but  person- 
ally I  did  not  get  one  single  lump  of  all  this  gold. 

I  was  not  disheartened,  but  somewhat  disgusted.  I 
turned  my  steps  down  the  South  Fork,  and  set  about 
putting  in  a  flume  in  the  river  above  Kanaka  Flat,  I 
paid  ten  dollars  a  day  for  whip-sawyers  to  cut  my  lumber. 
When  the  fliume  was  finished,  it  had  cost  me  ten  thou- 
sand dollars.  But  worst  of  all — the  current  of  the  river 
had  washed  away  all  the  gold,  and  I  got  nothing  for  my 
trouble  but  a  poor  experience.  The  experiment  had 
proved  a  hard-cash  failure,  and  I  returned  to  Poorman's 
Creek. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  I  had  instructed  my 
partner  to  establish  a  store  here.  He  had  accordingly 
gone  down  below,  bought  what  he  thought  would  be  a 
good  speculation,  and  on  his  return  opened  an  establish- 
ment which  did  not  at  all  suit  my  taste.  There  was 
plenty  of  whisky,  brandy  and  champagne,  and  in  front 
of  the  store  a  round  tent,  where  the  monte  cards  were 
being  dealt,  while  several  young  fellows  of  the  "Fancy 


12G 


HUNTING    KOK    COLD 


H  ■H 

i ') '  ■HI 
:  ! 


Class"  ap])eared  in  the  crowd — so-called  "dead  beats," 
whose  only  duty  was  to  keep  the  game  ijoing.  Provis- 
ions were  scarce  on  the  Creek,  notwithstandiiiijf  the 
demand  for  them,  and  somebody  kept  packin*^  whisky 
kei^s  down  the  hill  to  the  miners  below,  until  they 
swore  that  the  next  keg  that  arrived,  before  Hour  was 
brought  down,  would  be  knocked  to  pieces,  and  the  con- 
tents allowed  to  run  to  waste.  I  now  went  back  to  my 
claim,  but  to  my  great  suq)rise,  my  ])artner  had  sold  it 
to  a  stranger  for  one  ounce.  I  did  not  feel  inclined  to 
dis})ute  the  possession  of  it,  and  so  left  him  alone,  but  I 
learned  afterwards  that  he  had  taken  $80,000  out  of  it, 
and  meanwhile,  I  had  swum  the  cold  rivers,  slept  in  the 
snow,  been  within  finger-touch  of  an  enormous  fortune, 
and  missed  it — sunk  $10,000  cash  in  a  futile  effort  to 
find  gold  in  a  river  bed,  and  here  I  stood,  minus  a  claim 
that  was  yielding  me  as  much  as  $1,500  per  day  when 
I  left  it,  and  all  I  had  received  in  return,  was  a  succes- 
sion of  brilliant  hopes  wliicli  had  exploded  like  sky-rock- 
ets in  the  night,  leaving  no  ^race  of  their  radiant  paths. 
I  began  to  think  that  I  would  try  the  Yuba  once  more, 
and  went  back  to  Downieville,  hoping  for  better  luck 
next  time. 

It  is  astonishing  how  implicitly  all  kinds  of  stories  of 
big  strikes  were  believed.  My  own  case  was  by  no 
means  a  singular  one,  as  everyone  seemed  ready  to  give 
up  what  he  had,  however  good  it  might  be,  should  he 
happen  to  hear  even  the  vaguest  rumor  of  something 
better.  I  remember  an  instance  where  a  few  irreenhorns 
set  the  whole  town  in  a  fever  of  excitement  through 
their  own  ignorance  of  what  they  were  doing.  They 
were  camping  on  the  river  bank,  about  one  mile  away, 
and  as  they  stayed  there  for  sometime,  it  was  concluded, 
by  the  know^ing  ones,  that  they  were  making  it.     A  fel- 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


127 


low  called  Steve,  made  u\)  his  mind  to  find  out,  and  one 
day,  when  some  of  them  were  in  town  for  provisions,  he 
approached  them  and  began  quizzing  them.  He  was 
told  in  reply  that  they  had  found  what  they  called  "a 
riijjht  smart  chance  of  ijfold." 

''How  much  does  it  prospect  ?"  inquired  Steve, 

"Sometimes  more,  and  sometimes  less;"  said  the  man 
questioned,  evasively. 

"But  on  an  average — ?"  Sujj^ijested  Steve,  determined 
to  learn  something. 

"Well,  never  less  than  eight  or  ten  bits  to  the  pan," 
said  the  other. 

Steve  was  delighted.  He  made  straight  forhiscanq) 
and  comm'inicated  the  fact  to  his  companions.  It  was 
decided  to  keep  the  mattoi  dark  until  they  had  located 
their  own  claims,  and  that  night,  under  cover  of  darkness, 
the  company  and  about  a  dozen  friends,  stole  out  of 
camp,  and  the  next  morning  the  sun  rose  upon  a  number 
of  miners  who  had  put  up  their  tents  on  new  claims,  and 
were  busily  engaged  staking  them  oft'  according  to  min- 
ing regulations.  After  breakfast,  the  pick  and  pan  were 
brought  into  requisition,  and  the  men  examined  the  bank 
up  and  down  the  creek,  but  none  could  find  more  than 
just  a  few  specks.  Steve  was  deputed  to  interview  the 
discoverer  of  the  supposed  gold,  and  ask  him  for  further 
directions.  He  was  told  that  there  was  plenty  of  gold 
"rit'-ht  down  there".  Steve  asked  him  to  be  kind  enouofh 
to  go  down  and  wash  a  pan  or  two,  and  the  man  readily 
complied.  The  stranger  set  to  work,  dug  a  pan  of  dirt, 
washed  it  down  pretty  close,  and  began  turning  it  round 
and  round,  so  that  a  little    black  sand   could   be   seen. 

Then  he  began  counting:  "One,  two,  three,  four,  five, 
six,  seven,  eight,  nine  I  Yes  there  are  nine  bits  in  that 
pan." 


fll 


128 


HUNTiNd  I'oK  c;oi.n 


«r 


Where  ?"  asked  Stove,  tliiiikiM«4'    for  a  moment    that 
he  liad  suddenly  l)e('oi»«e  eolor-Mind. 

"Tliere!"  l^^jaculate«i  tlie  otlier,  impatiently,  "can't 
you  see  ?"     And  he  pointed  to  a  few  specks  in  the  sand. 

Steve  straij^htened  himself  uj),  turned  his  hiick  upon 
the  stranger,  and  rnn  hack  to  his  mates.  He  could 
hadly  speak  for  laughter,  and  besides,  lie  stammered 
considerably;  but  when  lie  liad  com[)osed  himself  a  lit- 
tle, he  burst  out;  "The  da-da-danincd  greeidiorns  call  a 
sp-sp-speck  a  bit,  and  t-t-ten  sp-s])-specks,  the}'  call 
t-t-ten  b-b-bits.  And  this  was  the  end  of  the  mininfj  on 
Greenhorn  Creek,  where  the  gold  ran  ten  bits  to  the 
pan. 

Towards  spring  our  company  began  work  in  Secret 
Canyon,  just  below  Jim  Crow  Canyon,  We  were  doing 
well,  and  fillino  our  sacks,  but  one  ni<j^htone  of  the  i)artv 
got  up  and  left  with  all  our  gold.  He  made  for  Canada, 
where  he  staved  for  a  while,  but  afterwards  liad  the 
audacity  to  come  back  to  Downieville.  Here  he  met 
with  a  reception  somewhat  cooler  than  he  had  anticipated, 
and  left  for  Australia,  where  he  is  reported  to  have 
made  a  large  fortune;  but  on  his  return  with  it  to 
America  the  ship  foundered  and  he  was  never  heard  of 
after. 

I  next  tried  \\\\  luck  below  Goodvear's  Bar,  and  lo- 
cated  on  Kantedodler  Bar,  where  I  found  o^ood  diiXU'inufs, 
and  put  up  a  cabin.  Somehow  I  always  got  tlie  hardest 
drinking  men  in  my  company,  and  often  had  considerable 
trouble  on  that  account.  I  have  seen  two  of  my  men 
meeting  in  the  cal)in  door,  each  carrymg  a  pail  of  whisky. 

"Where  were  you  ?"  Asked  the  one. 

"Down  for  the  bitters,"  said  the  other;  and  they 
would  call  their  mates  and  drink  the  contents  as  an 
appetizer  before  breakfast.     It  got  to  be  so  bad,    that 


'     ym,\ 


I 


^^^ 


\ 


130 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


m 


hi 


when  a  iiuui  was  fouiiil  Iviinjc  dead-drunk,  with  the  sun 
beating  down  upon  Iiim,  and  a  bottle  sticking  out  of  his 
pocket,  people  would  say.  "Oh  he  is  all  riglit;  he  knows 
how  to  take  care  of  hiniself;  he  belongs  to  the  Major's 
crowd,"  and  whether  he  really  did  or  not,  nmde  no  ditler- 
ence,  he  got  the  credit  anyhow.  I  had  two  married 
men  with  me  here,  whose  drinking  propensities  .severely 
tried  my  patience.  Several  times  I  determined  to  dis- 
charge them,  but  they  always  found  some  excuse.  Thoy 
would  generally  begin  to  cry,  and  between  their  tears 
and  draughts  of  whisky,  tell  me  that  they  had  just  had 
letters  from  home. 

"The  wife  has  just  had  a  baby,"  one  would  say,  and 
the  other  would  follow  with  a  story  al)out  "The  old 
woman  wantinijf  him  to  come  home,  but  he  liad  not 
made  enough  to  go."  Indeed,  it  was  hard  to  see  how 
some  of  those  fellows  could  ever  expect  to  make  enough, 
at  the  rate  they  threw  their  gold  away  for  whisky. 
One  of  these  fell  head  foremost  down  a  shaft  thirty  feet 
deep.  The  other,  who  had  seen  him  go  up  to  the  shaft 
and  suddenly  missed  him,  went  down  to  the  mouth  of  it 
and  called  out :     "Are  you  down  there,  Scotty  ?" 

"Aye  aye  I"  cried  Scotty,  "Send  dowm  the  rope 
Charlie."  The  man  was  not  injured  at  all,  save  for  a 
shaking,  which  a  draught  of  whisky  soon  made  him  for- 
get. 

One  of  this  drunken  crowd  got  into  a  scrape  with  a 
Dutchman,  and  nothing  would  do  to  vindicate  honor, 
but  to  fight  a  duel  with  pistols.  So  he  went  down  to 
Goodyear's  Bar  to  buy  paper  and  ink,  intending  to  ask 
me  to  write  out  a  challenge.  On  the  way  home,  in 
some  manner  the  cork  came  out  of  the  bottle,  and  the 
black  fluid  got  all  over  his  hands  and  face.  His  appear- 
ance in  camp  created  much  amusement,  and  he  looked 


mTNTINO    FOR    OOM) 


VM 


like  a  monkey  (.'oiniiiuf  out  of  a  tar  barrel.  Nothing 
more  was  heard  of  his  intentions  to  Hijjlit  a  tluel,  and  lie 
was  kept  husy  for  several  days,  trying  to  scour  the 
black  patches  otf  his  face. 

The  water  in  the  river  rose  and  we  had  to  leave  ofl' 
working  for  a  while.  Dust  bc^came  scarce  and  some  of 
the  V)oys  involuntarily  sobered  up.  There  was  a  Mr. 
Briggs,  who  kept  a  store  at  Goodyear's  IW,  and  also 
owned  a  claim  adjoining  mine  at  Kantododler.  One  day 
some  of  my  men,  hanging  round  his  place  without  a  cent 
in  their  pockets,  contrived  a  scheme  for  getting  free 
drinks,  which  shows,  both  the  knowledge  they  possessed 
of  human  nature,  and  also  the  spirit  of  the  age.  Seated 
in  the  bar-room  they  began  to  talk  of  the  "Major's  latest 
strike," 

"And  sure,"  says  one,  "that  is  pretty  nice  gold  right 
asfainst  Mr.  Brigij^'s  claim  " 

"Yes,"  joined  in  another,  "The  Major  says  he  is  going 
to  lose  the  best  of  it;  it  is  all  in  Mr.  Briggs'  claim." 

"What's  that,"  inquired  the  store-keeper,  pricking  up 
his  ears. 

Then  followed  an  account  of  a  wonderful  discovery  of 
a  rich  lead  that  lost  itself  into  Mr.  Brisrsfs'  claim,  and  all 
the  Major  had  said  about  it. 

"And  did  the  Major  really  say  so  ?"  shouted  the 
delighted  storekeeper. 

"Sure !" 

"Come  up  boys  and  have  a  drink,"  called  the  man  who 
now  saw  thousands  of  bright  dollars  shininjj  in  his 
imagination. 

"Oh  no  thank  you,"  said  one  of  the  crowd  modestly, 
"We  left  the  dust  in  the  camp." 

"Dust  or  no  dust !  What  matter?  Money  is  no  object, 
come  up  boys,  can  Downie's  men  no  longer  drink  ?" 


i 


H 


182 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


That  settled  it.  Determined  not  to  lose  their  repu- 
tation, they  sailed  in  and  never  let  go  till  the  store-keep- 
er had  filled  them  up  to  their  utmost  capacity.  But 
what  did  he  care  ?  He  saw  before  him  a  large  fortune 
in  his  splendid  claim.  He  lived  for  the  hour  in  the 
sunshine  of  brilliant  hopes,  as  so  many  of  us  have  done 
both  before  and  since,  and  after  all  a  man  generally 
enjoys  himself  as  well  if  not  better,  while  looking  into 
the  >uture  with  hopeful  eyes,  than  he  does  when  the 
reality  is  reached,  which  is  too  often  attended  by  bitter 
disappointments. 


i  i 


CHAPTER    XII. 

A  Severe  Winter — Alexander  McDonald — Close  to  a  Fortune — A 
Lawsuit — Organizing  a  Mining  District — Sluicing  and  Tun- 
neling— The  Summer  of  '58 — Reports  From  the  Fraser — A 
Wind-up — Now  and  Then — Quoting  a  Forty-niner. 

I  should,  indeed,  weary  my  reader,  were  I  to  contin- 
ue my  every-day  experience  as  time  passed,  u  ig  my 
stay  in  the  California  mines,  and  will,  there foiv,  bring 
this  portion  of  my  account  to  a  close,  briefly  passing 
over  the  remainder  of  the  time  before  I  left  for  other 
fields. 

The  winter  of  '51-52  was  an  unusually  severe  one,  and 
I  and  my  companions  suffered  a  good  deal  of  hardship. 
It  was  during  this  period  that  I  met  Alexander  McDon- 
ald, and  a  very  warm  friendship  sprang  up  between  us, 
which  lasted  for  many  years.  We  became  mates,  both 
on  the  California  gold-fields,  and  later  on  in  British 
Columbia ;  and  I  shall  have  more  to  say  in  a  future 
chapter,  of  the  tragic  fate  which  befell  this  man,  who 
was,  indeed,  one  of  the  best  of  friends,  and  one  of  the 
most  generous  of  men.  Towards  the  close  of  the  winter, 
McDonald  and  I  went  to  Indian  Creek,  where  we  met 
with  unexpected  success,  and  notwithstanding  the  sever- 
ity of  the  season  took  out  a  large  quantity  of  gold.  From 
this  place  I  afterward  moved  to  Grizzly  Hill,  but  had 
no  luck  there,  and  determined  again  to  turn  my  attention 
to  sluicing,  for  which  purp    e  I  went  to  Indian  Hill, 

I  stayed  at  Indian  Hill  for  quite  a  while  and  took  out 
some  gold.  Later  on  I  removed  to  Ramshorn  Creek  near 
St.  Joe  Bar.     Never  were  prospects  brighter  and  my 

133 


a 


m 


M 


•  i  T.  (  i 


flf^- 


|i     t 


134 


HUNTING    FOK    GOLD 


l'4il 


heart  was  full  of  hope,  but  I  was  doomed  to  suflfer  the 
humiliation  of  succumbiiii*;  in  a  contest  where  the  most 
money  carried  the  greatest  weight. 

Right  ahead  of  me  on  the  creek  was  a  comi)any,  known 
as  the  St.  Louis  Boy.     They  were  rich  and  influential, 
and  had  come  there  with  the  fixed  purpose  of  increasing 
their  fortune,  even  if  they  had  to  go  to  some  expense. 
It  did  not  take  them  lono-  to  find  out  that  the  locality 
was  ci  first-class  one,   but,    unfortunately   for  me,  they 
wanted  all  within  reach,  and  I  became  a  thorn  in  their 
side.     At  first  they  attempted  to  persuade  me  to  give 
up  my  claim,  but  I  was  fully  aware  of  the  great  chances 
I   had  in  this    place,  and  would  not  be  bluffed.     Then 
they  cast  about  for  some  tangible  reason  to  bring  a  law- 
suit, and  indeed   succeded    in  finding  a  pretext,  to  my 
great  surprise.     I  saw  at  once,  that  it  was  a  matter  of 
feeding  the  lawyers,  and  realized  that  I  could  not  com- 
pete   with    my  opponents.     For  a  while  I  held  out,  but 
found  it  wiser  to  yield  and  withdraw  rather  than  spend 
my  money  in  vain.     But  in  letting  go  my  claim,  I  gave 
up  one  of  the  best   chances  I  ever  had  of  making  a  for- 
tune. 

I  then  tried  Clark's  Canyon,  where  I  struck  it  rich, 
but  for  want  of  water  I  did  not  succeed  in  makino-  a 
raise,  and  went  into  Plumas  County,  prospecting.  On 
my  return  to  my  old  location  I  found  that  my  claim  had 
gone.  Mr.  G.  Hughes  had  been  working  higher  up  in 
the  canyon  and  had  met  with  some  success,  taking  away 
several  bags  of  gold. 

I  next  went  to  Slate  Creek  House,  with  Dr.  Jump, 
for  the  purpose  of  making  laws  and  organizing  a  new 
mining  district.  We  also  formed  a  company  which 
undertook  to  run  a  tunnel  on  the  west  branch  of  Can- 
yon Creek,  and  for  sometime  we    pushed    ahead    with 


ifl 

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o 


rr. 


o 


c 


j_^ii2ttiiU 

"Wi 

^4 

13G 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


!'f ' 


.•r 


this  work,  but  ultimately  gave  it  up,  and  I  formed 
another  company,  which  drove  a  tunnel  in  the  F'ir  Cap 
ridge,  known  as  the  Alma  tunnel.  Here  wo  spent 
twenty-two  months  in  a  very  rough  country.  Our  only 
shelter  was  a  "dug  out"  in  the  mountain  side,  and  any 
stranger,  wishing  to  find  it,  had  no  other  land-mark  to 
go  by  than  the  smoke  coming  out  of  the  flue. 

After  sinking  $14,000  in  a  vain  attempt  to  find  any- 
thing worth  working,  we  gave  up  the  Alma,  and  I 
bought  into  the  Keystone  Tunnel  Company,  and  after- 
wards mined  below  Forest  City,  but  with  no  success. 

I  next  tried  in  succession.  Poorman's  Creek,  South, 
Scotchman  Creek  and  Washington,  where  I  bought  a 
shaio  from  Charlie  Stymer  in  the  Hagler  Tunnel  on 
Brandy  Flat.  There  was  plenty  of  hard  work  here, 
with  but  small  returns,  and  then  the  reports  of  the 
Fraser  River  excitement  reached  the  mining  camps  of 
California. 

I  have  now  briefly  taken  my  reader  as  far  as  the 
Spring  of  '58,  the  year  when  the  great  exodus  to 
British  Columbia  was  inaugurated.  California  miners 
were  ready  to  listen  to  the  call  that  came  from  these 
northern  fields.  Ever  reckless;  ever  on  the  move  for 
some  better  chance,  they  would  at  all  times  have  fol- 
lowed promptings  which  bade  them  go  in  search  of 
possible  treasures,  but  on  this  occasion  they  went  partly 
for  other  reasons.  The  fact  of  the  matter  was,  that 
gold-seeking  on  the  old  lines  was  gradually  decreasing. 
When  the  stream  of  adventurers  first  flooded  California, 
after  Marshall's  discovery  had  been  proclaimed,  gold 
was  readily  found.  My  reader  will  remember  how  often 
I  have  mentioned  it  as  lying  on  the  very  surface  of  the 
earth,  over  which  we  traveled.  It  is  true  that  such 
accounts  as  were  spread  in  regard  to  the  Gold  Lake  and 


|:  (I  :Jl 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


137 


other  places,  were  mere  fables,  but  it  is  nevertheless  a 
fact  that  in  many  localities  the  gold  was  found,  as  if  it 
had  been  strewn  over  the  soil  like  so  much  grain.  Not 
only  was  it  found  on  the  very  surface,  but  also  in  the 
crevices  of  the  mountain  side.  In  all  these  places  it  was 
easily  gathered.  The  bare  hand,  a  pick  and  a  pan,  o-r  a 
blunt  knife,  would  secure  all  there  was,  with  no  expense 
to  the  finder,  and  the  fortune-seeker  might  arrive  on  the 
gold-fields  as  poor  as  the  ])roverbial  church  mouse,  and 
leave — a  second  Croesus, 

But  there  were  many  thousands  of  these  fortune-hunt- 
ers, and  the  persistency  with  which  they  carried  on 
their  search,  caused  a  rapid  decrease  in  the  surface  gold. 
A  few  years  had  considerably  altered  the  aspect  of  Cali- 
fornia mining.  When  the  precious  metal  disappeared 
from  view,  the  gold-hunter  had  to  unearth  it  somehow. 
It  was,  as  yet,  to  be  found  in  the  mountains  and  in  the 
river  beds,  and  tunneling  and  sluicing  were  inaugurated 
as  the  next  modes  of  operation.  But  these  undertak- 
ings cost  money.  The  man  who,  a  few  years  before, 
could  start  in  poor  and  go  home  as  a  peer,  was  not  "in 
it"  any  longer  as  his  own  master.  If  he  wished  to  turn 
miner,  he  must  go  to  work  for  the  man  who  had  the 
money.  But  it  was  the  independence  and  the  absolute 
equality  in  the  world  of  chance,  which  Dame  Fortune 
bestows  upon  all  her  worshipers,  that  had  been  the  chief 
attraction  of  mining  life,  and  had  given  to  it  its  chief 
characteristics,  and  when  this  equality  and  indepen- 
dence disappeared,  the  inspiration  of  mining  life  became 
extinct. 

For  the  purpose  of  gradually  surviving  the  change 
which  was  creeping  upon  them,  many  of  the  most  cour- 
ageous miners  ran  heavily  into  debt.  Many  of  them 
had  worked  hard  with  but  little  success  in  irainincj  the 


11 

v^' 

1 

'b    '' 

1, 

li: 


'I 


hm 


m 


im 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


expected  fortunes.  When  it  became  apparent  that  the 
gold  must  be  souglit  for  in  tlie  rivers  and  rocks,  they 
borrowed  money,  generally  from  the  store-keepers,  to 
whose  enormous  revenues  they  had  for  years  contribu- 
ted, and  sunk  the  capital  in  mining  engineering,  which 
unfortunately,  often  in  addition  to  poverty,  heaped 
upon  them  the  burden  of  debt.  Oftentimes  the  river 
bed  did  not  reveal  any  treasures,  and  the  dark,  cold  tun- 
nels did  not  lead  to  any  mines,  while  the  debt  increased, 
and  the  creditors  became  troublesome.  This  kind  of 
mining  was  vastly  different  from  the  old  style,  and 
required  an  amount  of  perseverence  and  tenacity,  which 
but  few  possessed,  but  it  must  be  said,  injustice  to  the 
California  miner  of  those  days,  that  a  braver,  pluckier 
class  of  men  never  ensxatxcd    in    the  hazards  of  mininsr. 

By  degrees,  machinery  was  brought  into  the  fields; 
and  the  expense  still  further  increased,  and  where  for- 
merly individual  lines  opened  the  possibility  for  an  enor- 
mous fortune,  now-a-days  syndicates,  corporations,  com- 
panies, operate  on  a  scale  which  makes  mining  a  ques- 
tion of  capital,  from  start  to  finish. 

Such  were  the  conditions  in  '58,  when  the  news  of 
the  Fraser  River  excitement  reached  California,  and 
found  its  way  to  the  mining  camps  in  the  mountain 
regions.  Everything  was  ripe  for  a  change.  Some 
anxious  to  get  away  from  the  cold,  damp  tunnels  ;  oth- 
ers from  the  inqjortunities  of  creditors  whose  demands 
they  could  not  meet ;  and  many  sighed  for  the  relief 
that  independence  would  bring  them  once  more.  As  to 
myself,  I  was  pleased  with  the  prospect  of  a  change.  I 
was  heartily  sick  of  boring  into  the  bleak,  hard  moun- 
tains, which  seemed  to  swallow  up  all  the  capital  we 
could  rake  and  scrape  together,  without  yielding  us  any 
return. 


a 
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!;•';?! 

■«■. 


140 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


!l 


Just  at  that  time  a  favorable  opportunity  presented 
itself  to  me  to  sell  out,  and  I  eagerly  took  .advantage  of  it. 
I  then  made  for  San  Francisco,  for  the  purpose  of  ship- 
ping for  British  Columbia,  and  I  was  not  surprised  at 
finding  the  city  of  the  bay  filled  with  miners,  who  had 
fiocked  from  the  diggings  in  all  parts  of  California, 
anxious  to  try  their  luck  on  the  far-away  river,  of  which 
run)or  had  painted  such  glowing  pictures. 

I  cannot  sum  up  this  portion  of  my  account  any  better 
than  by  quoting  here  a  short  article,  published  in  the 
year  1877,  in  a  Sierra  paper,  by  an  old  miner,  who,  tak- 
ing a  retrospective  glance,  writes  as  follows: 

"Twenty-nine  years  seeking  for  gold!  But  how  changed 
are  the  same  class  of  miners  in  twenty-nine  years. 
Then  all  was  bright  and  rosy  to  him;  no  matter  what  ob- 
stacles he  met  with,  he  would  face  them,  and  if  defeated, 
try  again.  If  a  tunnel  had  to  be  run  in  hard  bedrock,  and 
numbers  of  them  may  be  found  in  the  highest  ranges, 
from  two  hundred  to  two  thousand  feet  long,  abandoned 
years  ago,  without  a  sign  of  gold  or  even  gravel  in  the 
prospective;  yet  after  expending  thousands  of  dollars, 
they  gave  them  up,  but  to  try  again.  If  they  fiumed 
the  river,  and  every  timber  and  board  were  carried  away 
by  the  mountain  floods,  still  he  would  go  into  the  next 
operation  with  the  same  hope  and  energy,  possibly  to  be 
wrecked  once  more;  but  what  matters  ?  Somebody 
was  taking  out  big  piles,  and  his  turn  would  come  by- 
and-by.  And  thus  he  worked  and  hoped  until  time  he- 
gan  to  lay  his  fingers  on  him,  and  "Silver  threads 
amongst  the  gold,"  began  to  show  themselves,  yet  the 
prize  seemed  to  be  in  the  near  future.  Had  he  not 
spent  the  best  years  of  his  life  searching  from  the  river 
beds  to  the  mountain's  crown  for  the  big  strike  that  was 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


Ul 


to  make  him  happy  the  rest  of  his  days,  and  realize  his 
brightest  dreams. 

Disappointments  liav^e  often  clianged  his  whole  nature, 
but  he  cannot  see  it ;  he  has  lontj  ago  ceased  to  write  to 
friends  and  relatives  ;  no  doubt  they  think  he  is  dead, 
and  generally  it  is  his  wish  that  they  think  so.  His 
plea  is,  he  has  no  good  news  to  send,  and  he  has  not  tlie 
heart  to  write  discouraicini;  letters  now,  whea  life  seems 
to  him  a  blank  and  a  failure.  His  energy  has  about 
died  out ;  he  is  content  to  work  in  the  primitive  way  of 
mining,  living  from  hand  to  mouth,  still  hoping,  as  it 
were,  against  fate.  His  house,  now  a  rough  cabin,  he 
can  call  his  own,  and  it  generally  contains  all  his  world- 
ly possessions.  He  has  the  walls  of  his  cabin  papered 
with  cuts  from  illustrated  newspapers,  one  bunk,  a  sack 
of  Hour,  some  few  other  provisions,  a  cat  or  two,  often  a 
small  garden  patch,  a  few  drooping  chickens,  the  inevit- 
able smoking  pipe  and  the  home-made  arm-chair.  Soli- 
tude has  soured  his  temper,  and  made  him  morose  in 
the  society  of  his  fellow  men,  and  often  he  shuns  that  of 
the  opposite  sex.  Of  course  there  are  exceptions,  and 
one  will  occasionally  come  across  the  countenance  of 
some  of  the  early  miners,  whose  face  may  show  the  lines 
that  time  has  made,  but  whose  laugh  rings  as  merry  as 
ever,  and  whose  heart  is  ever  fresh.  But  they  are 
silent  and  reserved  at  first,  and  will  ever  remain  so. 
You  will  find  them  in  their  solitary  claims,  from  the 
foot-hills  to  the  highest  Sierras.  Talk  with  them  of 
early  times;  then  you  break  through  their  reserve,  the 
eye  will  sparkle  and  the  countenance  light  up,  as  they 
tell  of  rich  bars,  benches  and  river  claims  that  they  have 
worked  or  known  of.  How  such  and  such  a  company 
went  home  with  piles  of  gold,  and  where  the  largest 
chunks  were  found;  they 


can 


you 


142 


HUNTINCJ    FOR    GOLD 


!^' 


111'- 


w 


Leud  crosses  on  every  range;  where  it  enters  and  wliere 
it  breaks  out;  and  yet,  you  will  mostly  find  tlieni  the 
worst  dead-broke  class  in  the  mine,  and  they — well,  they 
had  had  luck;  this  and  that  was  a  failure — nothing 
seemed  to  prosper  with  theai;  the  very  elements  were 
against  them.  They  made  quite  a  stake  in  such  a  place, 
and  sank  it  in  prospecting  another.  But  while  some  miners 
were  taking  out  gold  on  river  bars  and  benches,  others 
were  depositing  it  into  bars  of  another,  and  to  them  less 
profitable  kind,  thus  anclioring  themselves  down  for  a 
lifetime.  A  few  more  years  and  the  old  '49,  '50-1-2  men, 
will  belong  to  the  history  of  the  past,  and  they  may 
treasure  up  the  sentiment  of  Moore,  the  Irish  poet: 

"When  I  remember  all  the  friends  linked  together, 

I've  seen  around  me  fall,  like  leaves  in  wintry  weather; 

I  feel  like  one  who  treads  alone, 

Some  banquet  hall,  deserted, 

Whose  lights  are  fled, 

Whose  garlands  dead. 

And  all  but  he  departed." 

"Soon  the  claims,  the  traps  they  contain,  together 
with  the  owners,  will  be  swept  away  by  the  ruthless  hand 
of  time,  and  the  gold  seekers,  who  almost  opened  a  new 
world,  will  sleep  the  sleep  that  knows  no  waking." 


IS  hi 


r !! 


"»r 


-1 


SICKTCHKS 


FR  O  M 


^THK    YUBA^ 


113 


f  a  J  ijlf 


■">  : 


> 
< 

Q 

I 

O 

H 

h 
O 


M 


1,1.  .ft 


lit 
til 


LYNCHING  A  BEAUTY. 

It  was  the  F'ourth  of  July,  1851.  The  little  town  of 
Downieville  was  haskin*^  in  the  hot  rays  of  the  California 
niidsuninier  sun;  the  atmosphere  was  oppressive,  and 
the  only  feature  in  the  landscape  that  brouufht  any  re- 
lief to  the  inhabitants  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Forks 
was  the  rippling  of  the  waters  of  the  river,  as  they  met 
on  their  way  from  the  cool  Sierras. 

The  national  holiday  had  risen  for  the  second  time  on 
the  little  settlement,  to  witness  a  great  change,  brought 
about  by  the  march  of  time.  The  community  had  become 
more  settled  in  regard  to  general  organization,  and  Cali- 
fornia had  beconc  a  state  of  the  Union.  But  for  many 
years,  even  after  that  important  event,  the  soc.^i  con- 
ditions in  these  parts  partook  of  the  characteristics  of 
border  life.  The  population  had  increased,  and  there 
were  signs  that  many  had  come  there  to  stay,  but  the 
place  was  isolated,  far  from  the  center  of  law,  order  and 
protection,  and  so  the  people  took  the  law  into  their 
own  hands,  when  occcasion  demanded  it. 

On  the  Fourth  of  July,  one  year  ago,  a  man  had  been 
flo«>i>'ed  for  woundino-  another  with  a  knife.  The  offence, 
trial  and  punishment  had  followed  in  quick  succession, 
and  the  result  had  been  that  for  many  months  after  the 
occurrence  all  such  lawlessness  and  violence  had  been  in 
check.  It  was  therefore  no  wonder  thai  the  incident 
had  impressed  itself  upon  the  community  as  a  precedent 
worthy  of  note.  It  was  not  a  spirit  of  revenge  nor  a 
craving  for  extreme  punishment  that  prompted  the  com- 

145 


* 


1. 


■HBHP 


I'fi'S 


f^ 

u 

1 

i 

140 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


munity  to  adopt  rigid  measures  on  all  occasions,  it  was 
simply  a  desire  to  enforce  order  and  subdue  any  attempt 
to  violence,  as  the  only  means  of  protection  in  a  coni- 
nmnity,  where  so  many  different  elements  had  come  to- 
ijfether. 

One  year  ago  most  of  tlie  habitations  were  merely 
canvas  tents,  a  few  cabins  forming  the  exception.  Now- 
the  latter  had  considerably  multiplied,  and  in  addition,  a 
few  adobe  houses  had  been  built.  These  latter  were  in- 
troduced by  the  Mexican  element,  which  soon  appeared 
upon  the  California  gold  field  in  all  their  different  shades 
and  mixtures  of  blood,  by  which  they  are  known. 

In  one  of  these  adobe  houses  lived  a  Mexican,  whose 
name  has  long  been  forgotten,  and  who  would  personally 
never  have  been  known  save  for  his  partner  in  the  clay 
hut,  a  woman,  known  as  Juanita.  Whether  she  was  his 
wife  or  not  makes  no  difference  in  this  story.  She  had 
come  there  with  him,  and  with  him  she  had  shared  the 
hardships  of  life  in  a  mining  camp.  She  cooked  his  meals, 
mended  his  clothes,  and  otherwise  added  to  his  comforts, 
when  he  had  an  opportunity  to  indulge  in  any,  the  rough 
and  ready  life  in  the  mountains  only  rarely  allowing  such 
luxuries.  But  the  most  striking  feature  about  Juanita 
was  her  personality.  She  was  of  the  Spanish-Mexican 
mixture,  and  the  blood  of  her  fathers  flowed  fast  and 
warmly  in  her  veins.  She  was  proud,  and  self-possessed, 
and  her  bearing  was  graceful,  almost  majestic. 

She  was  in  the  miners  parlance  "well  put  up."  Her 
figure  was  richly  developed  and  in  strict  proportions;  her 
features  delicate,  and  her  olive  complexion  lent  them  a 
pleasing  softness.  Her  black  hair  was  neatly  done  upon 
state  occasions,  and  the  lustre  in  her  eyes  shone  in  various 
degrees,  from  the  soft  dove-like  expression  of  a  love-sick 
maiden,  to  the  fierce  scowl  of  an  infuriated  lioness,  accord- 


\t 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


147 


ing  to  her  temper,  which  was  the  only  thing  not  well 
balanced  about  her.  Add  to  this,  that  when  dressed  up, 
Juanita  wore  the  picturesque  costume  of  her  native  soil, 
in  which  rich  laces  and  bright  colors  blended  harmon- 
iously, and  it  may  be  well  understood  that  this  woman 
was  known  all  throucjh  the  settlement. 

On  this  Fourth  of  July,  of  which  I  am  about  to  speak, 
the  usual  celebration  took  place  throughout  the  mining 
camps  on  the  Yuba.  The  pick  and  pan  lay  idle,  and  the 
miners  drank  as  usual  on  such  occasions,  until  the  air 
seemed  hazy  around  them  and  numbers  were  hard  to 
define.  The  row  went  on  all  day  and  far  into  the  night, 
and  it  was  towards  midnio^ht  when  the  last  stracjcrlers 
made  for  home  to  take  a  few  hours'  sleep  before  the 
rising  sun  should  call  them  to  labor  again. 

Amonof  those  returnint;  at  that  late  hour  was  a  man 
named  Cannon,  who  with  a  couple  of  companions  had  left 
the  dram  shop  to  go  back  to  camp.  They  were  all  more 
or  less  under  the  influence  of  liquor,  but  Cannon  was  the 
worst.  He  staggered  along,  every  now  and  then  stumbling 
over  protruding  rocks,  or  knocking  against  the  side  of  a 
cabin,  and  just  as  he  came  in  front  of  the  house  in  which 
the  Mexican  and  the  handsome  woman  lived,  he  ao-ain 
stumbled,  and  before  his  friends  could  stay  him,  had 
rolled  throutrh  the  rickety  door  of  the  adobe  hut,  into 
the  room.  It  was  perfectly  dark,  and  as  one  of  his 
companions,  who  struck  a  light  on  the  outside,  perceived 
what  had  become  of  his  friend,  he  went  in  and  raised  him 
from  the  ground. 

"Come  out  I"  he  said,  "there  is  a  woman  in  this  house: 
Come  along  man!" 

Cannon  rose  to  his  feet,  and  in  doing  so  brought  with 
him  a  silk  handkerchief,  which  he  had  picked  up  on  the 
floor,  but  he  was   persuaded  to  throw  it  back   by^  his 


I: 


hi 


I 


148 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


companions,  who  hustled  hiui  out  of  the  room,  fixed  the 
door  as  well  as  possible,  and  made  for  home.  During 
the  whole  of  the  proceedings  not  a  word  had  been  spoken 
by  the  inmates,  and  it  was  supposed  that  they  had  either 
slept  through  it  all,  or  that  fear  had  silenced  them. 

It  was  late  the  following  morninij^  when  Cannon 
awoke  after  a  heavy  sleep.  He  had  almost  forgotten 
the  incident  of  the  previous  evening,  and  when  some  of 
his  friends,  in  the  course  of  conversation,  related  to  him 
the  occurrence  in  which  ho  had  taken  such  a  prominent 
part,  he  felt  much  concerned  at  having  occasioned  the 
scene  described  to  him,  and  at  once  resolved  to  oft'er  a 
personal  apology.  Cannon  could  speak  Spanish,  and 
accompanied  by  one  of  his  friends  who  had  been  with 
him  on  the  previous  evening,  he  wont  down  to  the  adobe 
hut.  The  man  came  to  the  open  door,  and  the  two 
engaged  in  a  conversation  in  Spanish,  of  which  his  com- 
panion could  not  understand  nmch,  but  it  seemed  to  him 
that  the  Mexican  exhibited  a  ij^ood  deal  of  anijjer.  Pres- 
ently  Juanita  appeared  by  his  side,  and  the  words  grew 
louder  and  more  excited.  Seemingly  Cannon  was 
attempting  to  smooth  matters  over,  and  to  pacify  the 
two.  The  woman  appeared  more  excited,  even,  than 
her  male  companion,  and  Cannon  evidently  increased  his 
exertions  to  arrange  matters  satisfactorily,  opeaking  in 
a  conciliatory  tone  ;  but  his  words,  whatever  they  were, 
proved  of  no  avail,  the  woman  giving  vent  to  the  most 
violent  outburst  of  anger. 

Suddenly  she  drew  from  the  folds  of  her  dress  a  knife, 
and  quick  as  lightning  buried  the  blade  to  the  hilt  in  the 
body  of  Cannon.  It  was  the  work  of  a  moment,  and  her 
victim  fell,  with  one  last  groan,  at  the  feet  of  the  beauti- 
ful woman,  who  threw  the  knife,  dripping  with  blood, 


J 


I 


I; 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


149 


I 


on  the  ground,  and  withdrew  with  the  Mexican,  into  the 
house. 

For  a  moment  Cannon's  companion  stood  as  if  petri- 
fied. He  had  come  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  a  rec- 
onciUation,  and  instead  of  that,  a  hideous  nmrder  had 
been  committed  in  his  presence.  The  warm  sunshine 
fell  upon  the  prostrate  body  of  his  friend,  whose  blood 
was  oozing  out  upon  the  sand,  and  it  seemed,  for  one 
moment,  as  if  everything  danced  before  the  gaze  of  the 
bewildered  miner.  Then,  suddenly  realizing  the  situa- 
tion, he  turned  away  and  made  for  the  nearest  (;amp 
to  tell  what  had  happened. 

A  short  time  sufficed  to  spread  the  report  through  the 
camps  and  claims.  It  seemed  as  if  the  very  air  had 
breathed  the  word  ''nmrder,"  and  soon  the  adobe  house 
was  surrounded  by  a  mob  of  infuriated  men.  But, 
somehow,  during  that  brief  interval,  Juanita  had  found 
time  to  dress  herself  fit  for  a  reception.  Clad  in  her 
picturesque  costume — the  very  best  she  had — with  her 
luxuriant  hair  artistically  braided;  adorned  with  rings 
and  armlets  and  spangles  of  precious  metals;  and  above 
all,  with  her  own  personal  loveliness,  she  met  the  men 
who  cried  for  vengeance,  at  the  door,  calm,  deliberate, 
beautiful.  Under  any  other  circumstances,  no  man 
could  have  resisted  her  exceeding  beauty.  The  fierce- 
ness of  anger  had  melted  from  her  eyes ;  there  was 
nothing  left  but  an  expression  of  perfect  resignation  and 
that  haughty  pride  which  was  natural  to  her. 

But  the  miners'  law  was  "Life  for  Life."  She  was 
at  once  seized  with  her  companion,  and  the  two  were  at 
once  tried  by  a  self-established  court.  One  man  only, 
had  the  courage  to  take  Juanita's  part,  a  Mr.  Thayer. 
He  pleaded  for  the  woman  and  denounced  the  mode  of 


\i 


^p 


150 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


It 

III 


m\ 


III 


It 


•i 


procedure  in  dealin*»;  witli  her,  but  he  was  quickly  silenced 
by  threats  of  violence,  and  even  death. 

"Hanof  the  sxreaser  devilsl" 

"Give  them  a  trial!" 

"No;  hang  them  now!" 

"Give  them  a  trial  first  and  then  hanof  them!" 

Such  were  the  shouts  that  filled  the  air,  but  the  last 
sui^gestion  of  compromise  was  accepted,  and  the  trial 
began,  then  and  there.  Cannon's  friend  testified  that 
there  had  been  no  intent  to  insult  the  woman,  or  in  any 
way  annoy  her,  and  that  the  whole  affair  had  been 
perfectly  accidental,  and  was  merely  the  outcome  of  a 
drunken  spree.  He  proved  the  regret  the  deceased  had 
felt  upon  learning  of  the  accident,  as  demonstrated  by  his 
immediate  step  to  make  reparition. 

The  Mexican  was  found  innocent  and  at  once  acquitted 
and  the  unfortunate  woman  put  up  as  her  defense  tliat 
there  was  an  intention  of  orross  insult,  when  Cannon 
broke  into  her  house  and  that  he  used  offensive  lanouaixe 
to  her  when  he  returned  to  the  house,  and  that  in  the 
heat  of  passion  she  had  committed  an  act  for  which, 
under  the  circumstances,  she  was  not  wholly  responsible. 
But  the  jury  was  not  to  be  convinced  of  innocence  on 
her  part.  When  the  case  closed,  they  found  her  guilty 
of  nmrder  in  the  first  degree,  and  she  was  sentenced  to 
death.  Never  were  the  terrible  words  of  such  a  sen- 
tence pronounced  on  anyone  more  composed  than  Juanita. 
She  was  apparently  perfectly  unmoved,  her  cheeks  neither 
flushed  nor  turned  p-illid,  and  she  seemed  quite  satisfied 
to  abide  bv  the  verdict. 

Where  now  the  suspension  bridge  crosses  the  river, 
an  improvised  scafi'old  was  hastily  erected,  and  thither 
Juanita  was  conducted,  accompanied  by  a  howling  l)l()od- 
thirsty  mob,  that  cried  for  vengeance.     She  never  broke 


> 

O 

a 
o 

H 


W 

O 

> 

o 

> 
5^ 


'I'pi'i 


152 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


If; 


I   W: 


il^! 


'!  fi 


lii 


down  ;  nor  even  Hinched.  "Big"  Logan's  services  had 
been  called  into  requisition — it  took  a  man  like  him  to 
hang  a  woman — but  Juanita  was  of  a  different  mind.  It 
was  getting  towards  evening,  and  sunshine  fell  upon  the 
landscape;  the  Yuba  ran  its  rushing  course  as  usual;  a 
little  bird  whistled  in  the  woods ;  otherwise  there 
was  no  sound  save  the  humming  of  insects  and  the 
soughing  of  the  breeze.  But  on  every  claim  the  miners' 
tools  lay  idle,  and  the  men  had  gone  to  feast  upon  the 
spectacle,  the  horrors  of  which  they  expected  to  surpass 
their  own  imaginations. 

But  Juanita  seemed  to  be  in  perfect  harmony  with 
the  surroundinoj;  nature.  Calm  and  dignified  she  mount- 
ed  the  scaffold.  Her  hands  were  unbound,  her  loose, 
picturesque  garments  floating  in  the  summer  breeze,  and 
her  beautiful  face  looked  into  those  of  the  vicious  throng 
that  surged  around  her.  Then  she  spoke.  Without  a 
tremor,  her  soft,  melodious  voice  told  the  story  of  the 
unfortunate  incident  that  had  brought  her  there,  in  the 
light  she  viewed  it.  She  declared  that  if  she  should 
live  to  be  again  provoked  in  the  same  manner,  she  would 
repeat  her  act,  and  when  she  had  finished  she  turned  to 
"Big  Logan"  and  took  from  his  hands  the  fatal  rope. 

There  was  a  death-like  silence  in  the  crowd,  every- 
body wondering  what  she  was  about  to  do.  Logan 
seemed  involuntarily  to  surrender  the  rope  he  was  sup- 
posed to  place  around  her  neck,  and  with  her  own  soft 
hands  she  placed  the  noose  in  position. 

"Adios  SenorsT  she  said  with  a  graceful  wave  of  her 
hand,  and  ere  the  astonished  spectators  could  realize 
what  had  happened,  she  had  leaped  from  the  scaffold 
into  eternity.  The  sun  set  in  Downieville.  The  men, 
careless  of  circumstances,  assembled  in  the  grog-stores, 
and  spoke  of  the  heroic  woman,  drank,  and  then  drift- 


I 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD  jjg 

ed  into  mining  talk.     But  there  was  a  blot  on  the  fair 

r:       '.V"'u, '"''''''  '"  *""''  y--  *°  --h  out- 
c!  if  *r  ""''  ^'^'^  ^*'''"^'*  *he  early  history  o 

Cahfornia,  and   especially   of  the   mining   camps    IZ 

men  a,  d  women  grew  „p  who  were  born  a'nd  raiLd  h 
dunng  the  crude  age  of  the  early  days. 

Ihen  the  dross  and  the  gold  became  separated  ;    then 
ntemgence    mdustry  and  ingenuity  were  allowed   ful 

aSiet  If  T-  Tr'"  ^""'^™*'™'  ^"*^'  '"^^   ^^^rfing 

Ca  if!         I   Tu    ^T  '  '"'  ""''  '^'  P^^t'  -"d  raised 
Cahforma  to  the  level  of  Christian  civilization 


I 


1 


I    !1! 


tj!!; 


THE  BLOODY  CODE. 

Durinor  the  year  1855  tliore  came  to  the  State  of  Cali- 
fornia  a  lady  by  the  name  of  Miss  Sarah  Pellet,  She 
was  young,  handsome,  possessed  of  more  than  ordinary 
intelligence,  and  of  a  kindly  disposition,  which  caused 
her  to  be  loved  by  all  who  came  in  personal  contact  with 
her. 

Miss  Pellet  had  a  mission  to  fulfill.  She  was  a  tem- 
perance lecturer  and  belonged  to  the  same  school  of  lady- 
reformers  as  did  Lucy  Stone  Blackwell,  Antoinette 
Brown  and  others  of  their  contemporaries.  In  this  con- 
nection the  name  of  Sarah  Pellet  still  lives.  Whatever 
may  be  the  individual  opinion  of  the  temperance  reform 
movement,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  those  who  have 
engaged  in  it  with  honesty  of  purpose,  have  done  much 
to  advance  the  social  condition  of  men  at  certain  periods 
and  under  certain  conditions.  If  this  important  question 
were  held  aloof  from  church  and  politics  alike,  it  would, 
no  doubt,  as  a  purely  social  proposition,  attract  more 
attention,  and  awaken  more  sympathy,  than  it  does  under 
circumstances  where  it  appears  to  act  as  a  cloak,  hiding 
either  ecclesiastical  propaganda  or  political  schemes.  It 
is  this  latter  fact  which  has  always  contributed  to  the 
sense  of  suspicion  with  whi^h  the  apostles  have  been 
viewed,  and  when  Miss  Pellet  began  her  crusade  in  Cali- 
fornia, she  was  made  the  target  for  many  scurrilous  re- 
marks from  a  large  portion  of  the  press,  which  mercilessly 
attacked  her,  imputing  to  her  motives  which,  indeed, 
were  far  from  her  pure  and  generous  mind. 


IM 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


155 


At  that  time  Calvin  B,  McDonald  was  conducting  the 
"Sierra  Citizen"  at  Downieville,and  he  took  it  upon  him- 
self to  champion  the  fair  lecturer  through  her  diflficul- 
ties  with  the  opposing  press.  Mr.  McDonald  is  now 
well  known  as  a  writer  of  force  and  brilliancy,  and  he 
was  then  laying  the  foundation  for  the  fame  which  in 
after  years  made  his  name  famihar  to  most  newspaper 
readers  in  California.  His  articles  not  lorn?  remained 
unread  by  Miss  Pellet,  and  she  determined  to  pay 
Downieville  a  visit  and  take  advantage  of  the  friendship 
proffered  her  through  the  "Sierra  Citizen." 

The  advent  of  Miss  Pellet  in  the  little  mining;  town 
was  fraught  with  remarkable  results.  The  reader,  who 
has  followed  me  through  the  preceding  pages,  is  aware 
that  there  was  a  vast  field  for  labor  in  the  cause  of  tem- 
perance, and  certainly  some  need  of  a  reform  of  this 
kind.  The  young  lecturer  lost  no  time  in  going  to 
work,  and,  aided  by  her  editor  friend,  soon  succeeded  in 
establishino-  a  laryfe  and  flourishing;  division  of  the  Sons 
of  Temperance.  Nearly  all  the  reputable  young  men 
joined  the  movement.  As  is  often  the  case,  people  went 
from  one  extreme  to  the  other,  and  for  some  time  total 
abstinence  was  looked  upon  as  the  only  correct  thing 
in  the  very  place  where,  shortly  before,  the  man  who 
could  not  drink  with  the  rest,  had  been  considered  a 
crank  or  a  suspicious  character.  The  Fourth  of  July 
was  drawing  near,  and  a  temperance  demonstration  was 
projected  and  a  couimittee  set  to  work  to  arrange  tlie 
programme. 

It  seems  strano-e  that  the  most  thrillinsjf  incidents 
that  took  place  in  the  early  days  of  Downieville,  should, 
in  some  way,  be  connected  with  a  Fourth  of  July  cele- 
bration. I  have  already  had  occasion  to  mention  two, 
in  which  drinking  bouts  were  followed  by  sanguinary 


15(5 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


m 


11 


results,  but  it  seeins  still  more  curious  that  this  celebra- 
tion, which  was  not  attended  by  any  indulgence  in  strong 
liquors,  should  bo  the   cause  of  the  tragedy  I  am  now 

about  to  relate. 

The  committee 
on  programme  hud 
quite  a  task  to  per- 
form in  arranuinir 
matters.  1 1  w  a  s 
the  desire  of  many 
that  Miss  Pellet 
should  be  asked  to 
deliver  the  oration, 
and  aixain  there 
were  many  others 
who  were  oppposed 
to  women  orators. 
The  latter  faction 
was  principally  in- 
fluenced by  a  young 
gentleman  named 
Robert  Tevis,  of 
whom  I  must  say  a 
few  words  before 
proceeding.  Mr, 
Tevis  was  a  broth- 
er of  Lloyd  Tevis, 
well  known  in  Cal- 
ifornia to-day.     He 

coMiNo  OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS.  was  auxious  to  Ob- 

tain a  seat  in  Congress,  and  for  that  purpose  had  lately 
come  to  Downieville  to  make  himself  popular  with  the 
people  in  the  district.  He  had  joined  the  Sons  of  Tem- 
perance, and  was  doing  his  best  to  make  friends,  although 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


157 


he  lacked  personal  magnetism,  and  that  power  of  making 
himself  popular,  which  is  of  great  advantage  to  all  men 
entering  the  political  arena. 

Nevertheless,  Tevis  was  well  thought  of.  He  came 
of  a  Kentucky  family  and  exhibited  all  that  polish  of 
manner  and  speech,  characteristic  of  southern  gentle- 
men. He  was  of  pleasing  appearance,  and  his  ideas  of 
chivalry  and  honor  were  in  strict  accordance  with  the 
orthodox  code  of  the  community  in  which  he  was 
brought  up.  He  was  fond  of  sports;  was  an  excellent 
marksman,  and  without  being  brilliant,  possessed  more 
than  average  intelligence.  But  his  temperament  was 
highly  nervous  and  excitable,  his  feelings  were  easily 
provoked  and,  when  wounded,  he  would  take  the  offence 
deeply  to  heart. 

Anxious  to  make  a  favorable  impression  upon  the 
people,  whose  support  he  was  soliciting,  Mr.  Tevis  fought 
hard  to  be  made  orator  of  the  day,  and  hence  the  diffi- 
culties of  the  committee.  Ultimately  a  compromise  was 
brought  about.  It  was  decided  that  Miss  Pellet  should 
be  invited  to  deliver  the  oration,  while  Robert  Tevis  was 
appointed  to  read  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and 
was  granted  permission  to  make  some  a])propriate  remarks 
on  the  illustrious  document. 

There  were  probably  3,000  people  in  Downieville  at  that 
time  and  there  was  no  lack  of  loyalty  among  them.  The 
throna:  that  leathered  to  listen  to  the  oration  was  a  laro;e 
one  and  included  nearly  every  one  in  town.  The  cele- 
bration began  with  a  salute  from  all  the  rifles,  shotguns, 
pistols,  and  everything  else  that  would  go  off  with  a  bang, 
after  which  the  primitive  brass  band  played  a  few  patriotic 
airs  as  an  introduction  to  the  more  serious  features  of 
the  programme. 

Then  Mr.  Tevis  read  the  Declaration.   As  soon  as  he 


158 


HUNTINC.    KOK    (iOM) 


I  < 


ir:iiiii! 


m 

''■\ 


SSM 


i; 


liatl  fiiiisliod  ho  took  mlvantai^e  of  tlie  j)rivile!jfc  «jfrante<I 
liiiii  by  tlie  coiiuuittuo,  and  addros.sed  the  luc'ctiiiin' on  the 
importance  of  the  Constitution;  on  national  issues  and 
on  anything  and  everytiiing  else  that  occurred  to  his  mind 
as  a  means  of  making  himself  heard  and  impressing  him- 
self upon  the  public.  He  went  on  speaking,  ap[)arently 
without  any  consideration  of  the  time  he  was  occupying 
and  annoyance  ho  was  causing,  until  at  last  the  Sons  of 
Temperance,  who  were  at  the  head  of  the  celebration, 
took  oflence  at  his  persistency,  and  determined  to  silence 
him.  Accordinuly  the  order  was  given  for  more  firinix, 
and  soon  the  hills  around  echoed  with  a  thunderinix  noise 
of  exploding  powder,  which  continued,  until  Mr.  Tevis 
found  it  impossible  to  make  himself  heard  any  more,  and 
sat  down  vvith  evident  signs  of  an<rer,  while  the  fair 
orator  of  the  day  stepped  to  the  front,  and  silence  having 
now  been  restored,  delivered  her  address,  which  was 
received  with  much  enthusiasm.  The  event  caused  a 
great  deal  of  comment  unfavorable  to  the  ambitious  can- 
didate for  Congress  and  rather  retarded  than  furthered 
his  chances. 

The  Hon.  Chas.  Lippencott  was  at  that  time  State 
Senator  from  Yuba  County.  He  was  the  son  of  a  clergy- 
man in  Illinois,  and  a  gentleman  of  exemplary  habits. 
He  was  an  excellent  writer,  possessed  of  a  highly  culti- 
vated mind  and  a  keen  sense  of  the  humorous.  There 
was  no  Democratic  paper  in  Downieville  then,  but  the 
Democrats  had  made  an  arrangement  with  the  proprie- 
tor of  the  "Sierra  Citizen"  to  run  a  few  columns  in  that 
paper,  and  Lippencott  had  been  appointed  editor  of 
them,  and  was  solely  responsible  for  their  contents. 

The  ludicrous  position  in  which  young  Tevis  had 
placed  himself  at  the  Fourth  of  July  celebration,  had  so 
much  impressed   the    Senator   that   he  could  not  resist 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


159 


tlie  teinptatioti  to  give  hiiu  a  roasting  in  liis  part  of  the 
papor,  and  when  the  "  Citizen"  made  its  apj)earance,  the 
aspiring  poHtieian  was  hauled  over  coals  in  a  manner  far 
from  complimentary  to  him. 

The  next  day  Tevis  appeared  in  the  editorial  room 
of  the  "Citizen"  and  demanded  the  publication  of  a  card, 
which  pronounced  the  author  of  Lii)pencott's  article  "a 
liar  and  a  slanderer."  He  was  beside  himself  with  ra«»'e: 
his  cheeks  were  palid,  his  voice  shook  with  emotion,  and 
he  would  not  listen  to  argument.  Mr.  McDonald,  who 
knew  Lippencott  well  and  was  aware  of  his  wonderfnl 
skill  with  tire-arms,  advised  Tevis  to  let  matters  drop. 
He  told  him  that  the  inevitable  consetjuence  of  such 
publication  would  be  a  challenge,  and  that  bloodshed 
would  follow.  The  young  Kentuckian  said  that  he  was 
anxious  to  fight;  his  honor  had  been  assailed,  and  only 
a  duel  could  satisfy  him.  If  the  card  were  not  pub- 
lished, he  would  consider  it  an  act  of  hostility  to  him- 
self. He  had  been  held  up  to  public  ridicule,  and  want- 
ed revenge.  He  would  fight  in  the  streets  or  anywhere 
else,  but  there  had  to  be  a  fisj^ht  somewhere,  as  he  was 
determined  to  satisfy  honor.  So  the  card  was  pub- 
lished, and  immediately  Lippencott  sent  a  challenge, 
which  was  promptly  accepted. 

Both  men  were  Democrats  and  Odd  Fellows,  and 
some  of  the  leading  Democrats  at  once  took  steps  to 
settle  the  matter  amicablv,  but  soon  realized  that  their 
endeavors  were  in  vain.  The  Odd  Fellows  took  more 
pains.  Neither  of  the  two  antagonists  belonged  to  the 
local  lodge,  but  nevertheless,  a  meeting  w^as  called  at 
once,  and  every  effort  made  to  settle  the  difficulty.  The 
brethren  remained  in  session  all  through  the  night,  and 
until  far  into  the  following  day,  and  several  times  it 
looked  as  if  they  might  succeed,  but  whenever  a  settle- 


1(50 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


m 

■'-I! 

i    I  ■    !i 

;    r  .       ( 

■  ■;  ii 


^1! 


I'M  i 


il 


It'll 

Hi'  |! 
if;:   i. 


m 
m 


E 


ment  of  the  affair  appeared  probable,  some  of  thein  who 
wanted  the  excitement  of  the  duel,  interfered  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  prevent  any  pacific  arrangement,  and  about 
noon  the  following  day,  the  meeting  broke  up  without 
havinof  attained  the  desired  result. 

Besides  the  mental  attainments  which  Lippencott 
possessed,  he  was  also  an  excellent  woodsman.  He 
had  spent  some  time  in  bear  hunting  and  killing  other 
game,  and  was  a  dead-sure  shot.  He  was  a  small,  heavy- 
set  man,  with  light  hair,  piercing  black  eyes,  deliberate 
and  resolute  in  his  speech,  and  gave  one  the  impression 
of  steadiness  and  self-possession.  But  he  was  of  a  much 
gentler  nature  than  his  adversary.  He  declared,  several 
times,  that  he  had  no  wish  to  kill  a  man  with  whom 
he  had  never  even  spoken,  and  that  he  would  rather 
avoid  a  fight,  but  the  nature  of  the  public  insult  com- 
pelled him  to  send  the  challenge. 

Tevis  was  given  the  choice  of  weapons,  and  he  select- 
ed double-barreled  shotguns  carrying  ounce  balls,  ui'.con- 
scious  of  the  fact,  that  with  no  weapon  was  his  adver- 
sary more  familiar.  The  distance  agreed  upon  was  forty 
yards,  and  each  man  in  practicing,  broke  a  bottle  at  the 
first  shot. 

While  the  Odd  Fellows  were  yet  deliberating  and  try- 
ing to  use  their  iniiuence  in  the  cause  •  f  humanity,  the 
two  combatants  and  their  seconds  left  town  on  the  quiet. 
The  public  did  not  know  whither  they  had  gone,  but 
the  Sheriff  went  in  pursuit  to  prevent  the  fight.  The 
ground  selected  for  the  fatal  encounter,  was  situated 
some  six  miles  from  town.  It  was  a  fiat  up  in  the 
Sierras,  surrounded  by  tall  firs  that  cast  their  sombre 
shadows  over  the  place;  but  no  sooner  had  the  party 
reached  it  than  the  Sherifl"s  posse  was  seen  on  a  dis- 
tant eminence,  and  it  was  deemed  advisable   to  move 


HUNTIN(i    FOR    GOLD 


IGl 


into  an  adjoining  county,  so  as  to  bebeyond  the  jurisdic- 
tion ot'tlie  pursuing  officers.  Consequently,  they  crossed 
the  border  and  selected  anovher  place  suitable  for  their 
purpose. 

It  was  towards  evening  when  they  arrived  there. 
The  lofty  fir  trees  reared  their  mighty  stems  around  the 
place,  looking  like  so  many  watchmen,  placed  there  to 
guard  the  unbroken  silence  that  prevailed.  Not  a  bird 
sang  its  ditty  in  these  woods;  not  a  sound  was  heard 
outside  the  heavy  breathing  of  the  men,  as  they  made 
their  way  up  the  hill  to  the  place  of  meeting.  The  light 
of  the  waning  day  was  still  bright,  although  no  sun  ray 
lighted  up  the  scene,  which  was,  to  say  the  least,  sepul- 
chral in  its  aspect.  No  spot  could  be  found  perfectly 
level,  and  in  drawing  for  position,  the  higher  ground 
fell  to  the  lot  of  Tevis.  The  distance  was  measured  and 
the  two  men  took  position  ready  for  their  deadly  work. 
Both  appeared  perfectly  composed,  and  each  one  kept 
his  eyes  steadily  on  his  adversary,  as  he  assumed  his  place. 
It  was  then  that  Lippencott  noticed  that  Tevis'  second,  in 
parting  with  him,  pointed  to  his  own  breast,  as  indicating 
where  to  aim,  and  he  took  the  hint  to  himself.  Had  he 
not  been  persuaded  already  that  Tevis  was  a  master  shot 
he  might  have  satisfied  himself  with  infiicting  upon  his 
antagonist  a  slight  wound,  but  his  experience  and  the 
motion  he  had  just  observed,  persuaded  him  that  this 
was  to  be  a  fight  for  life. 

The  combatants  were  ready  and  the  signal  given. 
Both  guns  cracked  simultaneously,  and  while  the  echo 
repeated  the  tale  of  the  deed  again  and  again  throughout 
the  silent  forest,  Robert  Tevis  sank  without  a  groan  to 
the  ground  with  ^  bullet  through  the  heart,  while  a  lock 
of  hair  fiew  from  Lippencott's  head  like  feathers  from  a 
wounded  bird.     The  fallen  man  had  not  made  the  nee- 


B 


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HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


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essary  allowance  for  the  incline  ot  the  ground,  and  his 

murderous  lead  had  passed  directly  over  his  adversary's 

left  shoulder,  grazing  his  face. 

The  survivor  and  his  friend  took  their  departure,  and 
the  former  tied  to  Nevada.     In  the  yatherin*''  twiliij^ht 

the  companions  of  the  dead  man  buried  the  body  of  their 
friend  in  this  lonely  spot,  and  made  their  way  to  Downie- 
ville  to  report  the  tragedy.  Next  day  the  body  was  re- 
moved to  town  and  interred  in  the  hill-side  cemetery. 
The  funeral  was  lani^e  and  demonstrative,  and  a  i^reat 
deal  of  sympathy  was  expressed  for  the  deceased.  Un- 
doubtedly the  whole  affair  had  been  pro])erly  conducted 
throuo-hout  with  the  utmost  fairness,  but  there  were  still 
many  who  looked  upon  Tevis  as  the  victim  of  that  reck- 
less spirit  which  characterized  early  life  in  California, 
and  too  often  caused  the  unnecessarv  sheddinu'  of  blood. 

Thus  ended  another  quarrel  brought  about  through  a 
Fourth  of  July  celebration  in  Dowaieville,  but  I  feel  called 
upon,  before  closing  this,  to  give  a  brief  account  of  the 
two  principal  survivors  of  this  episode,  as  far  as  I  have 
been  able  to  follow  them  afterwards. 

After  awhile  Lippencott  returirjd  to  Downicvillc,  but 
he  felt  himself  like  another  Ishmael.  He  was  a  sensi- 
tive man,  and  it  seemed  to  him  that  old  friends  did  not 
shake  his  hand  with  the  wonted  warmth,  and  acquaint- 
ances reluctantly  recognized  him.  Miss  Pellet,  who 
reixarded  herself  as  the  innocent  cause  of  all  the  trouble, 
never  forsook  him  during  this  trying  period.  She  exerted 
all  her  personal  influence  to  reconcile  public  opinion  with 
the  man  who  had  merely  defended  himself  when  chal- 
lenofed,  and  the  brave  stand  she  took  in  the  matter  could 
not  help  exciting  much  admiration  for  her.  When  she 
ultimately  left  Downieville,  her  departure  was  much  re- 
gretted, and  the  cold-water  brigade  dwindled  down  for 


1 


I 


♦  , 


HA 


HUNTING    FOR    (iOLD 


! 


li'   ' 


iHi'' 


JUi' 


want  of  a  leader,  and  the  Sons  of  Temperance  became  an 
order  of  the  past. 

There  seemed  to  be  a  strani^e  fatality  hoverin^^  about 
this  woman,  which  soon  after  once  more  brou<>"ht  destruc- 
tion  m  her  path.  She  went  to  Oreijfon,  and  while  there 
a  settlor  undertook  to  pilot  her  through  the  wilderness, 
but  when  the  guide  returned  to  his  home  he  found  that 
the  Indians  had  taken  advantage  of  his  absence,  nmrdered 
his  wife  and  children,  and  burnt  his  home.  Miss  Pellet 
afterwards  returned  East  across  the  idains,  and  the  last  I 
heard  of  her  was  that  she  was  attending  a  woman  sutf- 
rage  convention  at  Syracuse,  New  York,  somewhere 
about  the  3'ear    1S70. 

Mr.  Lippencott  was  a  strong  supporter  and  warm 
friend  of  the  late  Senator  Broderick,  who  was  shot  down 
in  the  famous  duel  with  Judge  Terry,  the  latter's  tragic 
end  forming  the  closing  chapter  of  an  eventful  life,  in 
which  the  reckless  spirit  of  a  border  community  had 
been  nurtured  and  developed.  Senator  Broderick  re- 
garded Lippencott  as  his  ablest  advocate  and  partisan, 
and  indeed  the  two  men  were  placed  in  the  same  position 
durinu:  their  lifetime — ^that  of  havinir  to  accei)t  the  inev- 
itable  and  submit  to  the  code  that  the  community,  the 
age,  and  the  custom  prescribed  for  them.  Senator  Lip- 
pencott was  an  honorable  man,  and  his  career  in  Califor- 
nia distinguished  him  as  such.  His  unfortunate  entan- 
glement in  the  duel  resulted  simply  from  his  position, 
and  the  prevailing  spirit  of  border  life,  for  at  that  time 
a  politician  who  would  suffer  himself  to  be  called  "a  liar 
and  a  slanderer,"  without  prompt  resentment,  would  have 
been  considered  disgraced  by  most  of  his  fellow-citizens. 

After  Mr.  Lippencott  had  finished  his  term  in  the 
State  Senate,  he  returned  to  his  home  in  Illinois,  to  find 
his  aged  father  dying,  and  it  has  been  said  that  the  report 


I 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


165 


of  liis  sou's  connection  witli  the  fatal  duel,  broke  the  old 
man's  lieart. 

When  the  war  broke  out,  J^ip[)encott'w  undaunted 
spirit  led  him  into  a  new  field  of  activit}'.  He  joined  the 
Union  Army,  and  distinguished  himself  in  battle  on 
various  occasions.  He  ultimately  became  a  Brigadier 
General,  and  after  the  war,  rose  to  ini[)ortant  civil  offices, 
becoming  Secretary  of  State  of  Illinois,  which  office  he 
held  for  several  terms,  proving-  himself,  throughout,  a 
man  of  great  physical  and  mental  capacity — a  true  soldier 
and  useful  citizen. 


rfc 


hm 


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f  '\ 


m 

mi 


RIVALRY  AND  DEATH. 

One  of  the  most  exciting  events,  which  took  place  in 
Downieville  in  tiie  early  day.s,  occurred  in  the  fall  of '55, 
and  is  remembered  by  tlie  encounter  between  Dave  But- 
ler and  a  miner  named  Moti'att. 

Butler  was  a  ^ambler  and  a  bullv,  and  Moffatt  was  a 
man  whose  uncontrolablo  temper  had  on  many  occasions 
led  him  to  the  verge  of  disaster.  Only  a  few  days  before 
the  occurence  took  place,  which  suddenly  terminated  his 
career,  Moffatt  had  undertaken  to  move  the  stakes  of  a 
claim,  belonging  to,  and  worked  by  Philo  Haven,  and 
when  the  latter  remonstrated  with  him,  he  had  struck 
Haven  violently  between  the  eyes.  On  that  occasion 
Haven  said  to  him:  "Moffatc,  you  wont  live  another 
ten  days."  There  was  no  intent  on  Haven's  part  to  take 
the  life  of  Moffatt,  but  he  was  ])rompted  to  speak  as  he 
did,  through  his  conviction  that  the  man's  violent  tem- 
per would  soon  run  him  into  serious  trouble,  and  the  fol- 
lowing will  show  how  singularly  the  phrophecy  was 
fulfilled. 

In  those  days  a  good  many  traveling  shows,  principally 

dramatic  and  operatic,  visited  Downieville.     The  prima 

donnas  were  Sarah  Bernhardts  or  Mrs.  Langtrys  on  a 

small    scale — the   glitter   of  gold   had  more  to  do  with 

their  soul's  contentment,  than  the  inspiration  of  the  arts 

they  professed  to  practice.     They  allowed  the  poor  man 

to  look  at  them  from  the  auditorium  and  the  rich  men 

to  court  their  favors,  green  room  fashion,  giving  them  a 

fatir  race  in  the  competition,  as  the  bids  gradually  rose, 
ifif. 


huntinct  fok  gold 


167 


The  reward  of  the  fortunate  ones  generally  consisted  of 
a  recollection  of  bewitching  smiles,  and  as  many  ounces 
of  gold  dust  as  they  had  been  in  a  position  to  put  up. 

Among  the  stars  which  occasionally  rose  upon  Downie- 
ville,  was  a  Mrs.  Kobb,  who  had  become  quite  famous 
for  her  beauty  alike  of  face  and  voice,  and  who  is  [)rob- 
ably  better  remembered  by  lier  maiden  name  as  Marian 
Goodenow.  Her  presence  was  the  signal  for  so  many 
aspirations  among  a  certain  class  of  the  miners,  and 
everybody  who  had  any  gold  to  spare,  was  willing 
to  sacrifice  on  the  alter  of  worship  in  the  race  for  this 
sweet  singer's  preference. 

Among  those  who  more  in  particular  lay  siege  to  the 
woman's,  good  graces,  were  Butler  and  Moffat.  What 
means  the  former  adopted  to  gain  this  point,  is  not 
exactly  known,  but  it  appears  that  he  left  his  rival 
under  the  impression  that  he  had  outshone  him  with 
the  fair  Marian. 

Motfat,  indeed,  had  not  been  idle.  He  had  exhibited 
all  the  ingenuity  of  a  Californian  miner  for  "catching," 
and  to  that  end  had  fired  from  the  muzzle  of  his  shot- 
gun something  like  six  hundred  dollars  worth  of  gold 
dust  into  one  corner  of  his  claim — "saltino-  it,"  as  it  was 
called.  Then  he  had  conducted  the  object  of  his  tem- 
porary worship  to  the  claim,  had  told  her  to  dig  and 
helped  her  to  pan,  and  in  a  very  brief  space  of  time  the 
charming  songstress  had  carried  from  the  claim  in  a  ba^r 
some  thirty-six  ounces  of  gold,  believing  it,  or  at  least 
pretending  to  believe  it,  one  of  the  richest  mines  on  the 
field. 

It  was  the  recollection  of  these  thirty-six  ounces  of 
gold,  which  did  not  come  into  harmony  with  an  inward 
suspicion,  that  after  all,  he  had  been  outdone  by  Butler. 

A   few    days   after   the    departure    of   jhe    company 


Il  '     I 


I 


it        f 


i(;s 


IIlNTIN(i    FOK    (iOIJ) 


MoM'ul  was  staiidiiin'  in  the  bar-room  of  Craycroft's 
saloon,  when  IJutlcr  untorcd.  "There  conies  tliat 
.>('i(tunclrel  Butler,  '  said  Mofiat,  aeeonipanying  his  ex- 
pression with  a  terrible  oath.  But  these  wi'rt'  liis  last 
words  in  this  world,  as  a  well  man,  foi'  l^utler  heariiiij; 
the  expression,  drew  (piickly  from  his  l)elt  a  revolver, 
and  sent  the  burly  miner  to  the  tloor  with  a  bullet  in 
his  breast.  Mottat  did  not  die  instantly,  but  was  carried 
into  a  room  behind  the  bar,  where  he  lay  lor  sevi'ral 
hours  before  he  expired. 

Meanwliile,  the  wildest  excitement  prevailed.  Butler 
Hed  from  the  scene  during  the  first  confusion  and  made 
out  of  town  under  cover  of  darkness  and  aided  by  the 
ijcamblers  who  stood  in  with  liini.  But  as  the  news 
si)read,  an<»rv  miners  massed  at  the  corners  and  in  the 
open  plaza,  and  then  a  wild  })ursuit  began.  That  niglit 
tlie  hills,  up  and  (h)wn  the  Forks,  were  scoured  higli  and 
low,  and  liad  Butler  been  cauo'lit,  he  would  not  have 
lived  to  recognize  his  captoi's:  but  he  succeeded  in  mak- 
ing his  escape,  and  the  se([uel  of  the  atlair  was  not  en- 
acted until  several  years  afterwards. 

The  miners,  seeing  that  their  eHorts  to  capture  the 
nmrderer  had  been  frustrated,  turned  in  anger  upon 
those  who  had  aided  and  abetted  him  in  his  escape,  and 
the  cry  arose  that  the  gamblers  nmst  go.  And,  indeed, 
so  summarily  were  these  men  dealt  with  that  within  a 
few  days  the  whole  fraternity  had  ((uit  the  scene  of  ac- 
tivity in  Downieville,  with  the  exception  of  old  "Uncle 
Jimmie,"  of  wliom  I  have  previously  spoken.  Uncle 
Jinnnie  had,  at  one  time,  been  a  baptist  preacher,  and 
had  merely  changed  his  i)lane  for  administering'  to  his 
fellow-men,  I  always  regarded  him  as  a  villain  of  the 
blackest  dye,  but  his  previous  connection  with  the  cloth 
saved  him  on  this  occasion. 


fk:kXh^v^i^ 


x-:l^ 


170 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


liMl 


i 

m 


H-tttf 


\  fti 

611 


i^ 


Among  tnosc,  who  took  tho  most  active  part  in  tliese 
proceedings,  was  Calvin  B.  McDonald,  the  editor  of  the 
"Sierra  Citizen."  It  was  he,  who  wrote  an  article 
wiiich  called  the  miners  together  in  the  Plaza,  and  in 
consequence  of  which  it  was  determined  to  expel  the 
Lrambleio  from  the  town.  McDonald  was  carried  over 
the  heads  of  the  excited  miners  into  the  middle  of  the 
plazv  where  he  made  a  rousing  speech,  in  the  course  of 
w'  he    urged  the   expulsion    of  the   gamblers.     In 

rec  r^nition  of  his  action  the  miners  raised  a  subscription, 
gave  him  a  champagne  supper  and  presented  him  with  a 
$300  watch.  It  was  a  great  feast  and  many  enthusiastic 
speeches  were  made  on  the  occasion.  The  watch  was 
afterwards  deposited  with  Ladd  and  Reese,  who  ran  a 
bank  in  Downieville,  and  one  hundred  dollars  borrowed 
on  it,  but.  when  some  years  after  the  little  mountain 
town  was  laid  in  ashes,  the  bank  burnt  up,  and  the 
watch  disappeared  in  a  process  of  cremation. 

A  strange  thing  happened  in  regard  to  Moffat  lying 
mortally  wounded  on  a  lounge  at  the  back  of  Craycroft's 
saloon;  the  dying  man  sent  for  Haven.  When  the 
latter  walked  in,  Moffat  disclosed  the  wound  in  his 
breast,  and  Haven  merely  said  :  ''What  have  you  got  in 
there— lead?" 

"That  is  what !"   ejaculated  the  wounded  man. 
'You  were  right  the  other  day,  when  you  told    me 
that  I  would  not  live  another  ten  days;  I  know  it — I 
am  going," 

Dave  Butler,  the  nmrderer,  succeeded  in  getting  out 
of  the  country,  but  the  awful  avenger  followed  him,  and 
ultimately  tracked  him  to  his  lair.  His  victim  had  been 
a  Free  Mason,  and  it  was  said  that,  with  unceasing  zeal, 
the  Masons  pursued  him  until  they  found  him  in  Oregon, 
two  years  after,  and  brought  him  to  justice.    A  constable 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


171 


was  sent  up  tor  him,  and  the  two  came  down  on  a  small 
coastinjr  si-hooner.  One  evenin^r  the  officer  took  him  on 
deck  for  an  airinij,  and  after  that  the  officer  was  never 
seen.  It  is  supposed  that  Butler  threw  him  overboard, 
althoUjLrh  he  strenuously  asserted  that  he  didnotknovv 
what  hud  become  of  him.  But  Butler  did  not  evade  his 
punishment.  He  was  taken  to  Downieville,  tried  and 
convicted,  and  expired  at  one  end  of  a  stroiii,'  rope. 


m 


|! 


)      I 


A  FOKTY-N^INMai'S   YARNS. 

I  liavo  proviously  ret'eiTi'd  to  Mr.  ]^hilo  Haven, 
and  will  now  relate  a  few  ot"  the  rt  nienibrance.s  he 
reealls  to  my  mind,  as  we  converse  together,  of  the 
lono;-i4i»'o,  and  conjure  U[>  old,  familiar  scenes.  My  friend, 
whom  I  met  first  in  '40,  is  two  years  my  senior,  and 
is,  mentally  and  })hysically,  well  preserved.  He  is  tall, 
bony,  spare,  and  has  a  facial  expression  varyino-  from 
stern  determination  to  o-eniai  kindliness,  with  interven- 
in*r  shades  of  temperament;  on  the  whole,  pretty  well 
denoting  the  man  as  he  is. 

We  were  talkin*'-  over  old  scences  and  incidents  that 
we  both  remembered,  when,  siuldenl}-,  Philo  says,  with 
a  lauL'h:  ''1  never  saw  anvthinu:  so  absolutely  ridiculous 
as  one  scene  that  recurs  to  my  mind  just  now.  It  hap- 
pened up  in  the  mountains,  about  the  Yul)a,  and  made 
me  laugh  at  the  time,  and  often  after,  till  my  sides  fair- 
Iv  ached.  I  was  travelino-  a  short  distance  behind  a 
Yankee  who  was  drivinix  his  mule  before  him.  The 
animal  was  heavily  laden,  and  carried,  among  other 
things,  a  long-handled  shovel  which  was  packed  so  as  to 
project  upward  and  outward  considerably,  on  the  right 
side. 

''Gradually  the  trail  became  more  difficult  to  trav- 
el. It  wound  around  the  mountain,  and  ultimately  led 
us  across  a  ledge  for  a  short  distance.  The  jjath  was 
narrow.  On  the  right  the  rocks  rose  almost  perpendic- 
ularly, and  on  the  left- was  a  sheer  precipice  of  some 
thirty  or  forty    feet,  before  our  gaze    met   the    sloping 


172 


HUNTINd    FOR    HOLD 


173 


side  of  tlic  iiioiintjiiii  wliicli  cxtciulocl  its  ruj^'L.^od  sidr  to 
tlu;  rlviT  l)(']()\v.  Of  cour.se  wc  wore  used  to  tnivolini: 
over  such  thoroiii.di lares,  and  1  would,  |»rol)al)ly,  iiev»r 
liave  reniend)ered  this  partieuhir  trij),  luid  it  not  heeii 
for  a  su<lden  luiid  in  the  patli,  wliieli  oeeurred  just  as 
we  were  ti'avi^liii;^"  across  tlu;  oV(;rliaM<j;iiiij;"  k'di^e. 

The  niuh',  whicli  led  tlu;  procession,  was  the  first  to 
turn.  It  was  just  at  the  corner,  when,  owiuLi^  to  the 
general  shakinj;'  of  the  pack,  the  top  end  of  the  lon«;- 
handled  shovel  struck  a  protrudinu;'  howlder  with  an  ctt'ect 
which  fairly  took  us  all  hy  surprise.  The  force  of  the 
collision  was  so  jjfreat  as  to  send  the  ooor  animal  oH'  its 
feet,  and  over  the  verjjfe  of  the  ledo-e;  and  the  Yankee 
saw  his  i)ack  «'ettinu'  down  liill  at  a  rate  entirelv  uuex- 
pected.  But  the  funny  feature  of  the  occurence  was 
the  manner  in  which  he  acted  when  he  saw  the  animal 
tlashing  like  a  bird  through  space.  With  hoth  arms 
akimho,  and  looking  at  the  animal  with  an  expression  of 
utter  amazement,  lie  yelled  with  a  few  strong  oaths  inter- 
spersed :  "Ho  gray  I  Ho-gray  I  Ho  gray  1"  The  idea  of 
a  man  calliuij:  to  a  nmle,  whicli  is  turning  sommersaults 
in  mid-air,  for  the  purpose  of  halting  it  in  its  mad  career, 
a[)peared  to  me  so  ludicrous,  that  I  smile  wMiencvcr  I 
think  of  it. 

In  rei>ard  tt)  the  Indians,  knowing  the  value  of  ofold 
long  before  Europeans  began  to  look  for  it,  Mr.  Haven 
not  only  bears  me  out  in  my  ideas,  previously  expressed, 
but  relates  that  he  has  seen  Indian  scjuaws  panning 
sjfold  in  Imskets  made  of  wicker  work,  and  covered  within 
with  a  layer  of  pitch.  In  connection  with  this  Mr. 
Haven  tells  the  followinL*"  amusimj;:  storv  :  ''I  wasca"  .  ed 
on  the  Yuba  at  one  time  with  a  small  party,  prospecLmg. 
We  had  been  particularly  fortunate,  and  our  provisions 
were  beginning  to  run  short,  but  I  hung  on  in  hopes  of 


T 


■; 


174 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


strikin<(  soinething.  We  woro  liviui;-  cliiefl}^  on  jerked 
venison,  Imt  a  good  deal  of  it  had  gone  bad  and  was  un- 
fit for  eating.  In  those  days  a  man  who  afterwards 
became  well  known  in  Downieville,  was  in  the  habit  of 
following  the  camps  and  pi-^king  uj^  such  provisions  as 
the  miners  had  discarded,  selling  the  same  to  the 
Indians  for  gold  lumps  or  dust.  This  man  was  at  our 
camp  at  the  time,  and  I  saw  him  several  times  dealing 
with  an  old  Indian  who  came  down  with  his  son,  and 
always  brought  some  very  fine  specimens  of  lumpy  gold. 

"I  decided  to  find  out,  from  the  redskin,  where  he 
obtained  the  lumps,  and  one  day  calk>d  liim  to  me. 
'See  here,'  I  said,  '  if  you  will  point  with  your  finger 
in  the  direction  where  you  find  that  gold,  I  will  give 
you  and  your  boy  all  you  can  eat  rifiht  now.'  My  men 
began  to  remonstrate.  They  knew  that  tlie  limit  of  our 
supplies  was  a  magnitude  nuich  more  easily  defined  than 
the  appetite  of  the  two  Indians,  but  I  was  determined, 
and  I  repeated  my  request. 

"The  Indian  looked  at  me  with  a  hungry  expression. 
He  pointed  with  one  finger  to  the  base  of  his  stomach, 
then  moved  the  same  member  of  his  anatomy  slowly  up 
the  front  of  his  body,  until  he  came  to  his  mouth,  which 
he  opened  wide  and  laid  his  finger  in    it    cross    ways. 

'"That  nmch  .'"  he  (jueried. 

"'Yes,'  I  said,    'I  will  fill  you  botli  right  up  to  there.' 

"'All  right;'  said  the  Indian,  and  tlie  bargain  was  con- 
cluded. I  started  in  the  manner  of  a  taxidermist  to 
stuff  them,  and  fiap-jacks,  venison,  onions,  hard  biscuits, 
tea  and  whatever  else  was  at  hand,  disap[)eared  almost 
as  <|uickly  as  it  was  placed  before  them.  After  having 
thoroughly  gorged  themselves,  and  considerably  dimin- 
ished our  atorcF  they   botli    arose,    evidently    satisfied. 

"'Are  you  all  right  ?  '  I  asked. 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


175 


"'All  right;  said  the  father. 

"'Now,'  I  said,  'I  liave  fulfilled  my  J>art  of  the  bar- 
gain, it  is  your  turn.' 

"The  old  man  looked  at  his  son,  to  whom  he  spoke  a 
few  words,  i>ivini;  him,  at  the  same  time,  a  meanin«: 
glanee,  which  I  afterwards  was  able  to  translate,  and 
then  placed  himself  with  liis  face  towards  a  high  bluff 
that  arose  just  in  front  of  us.  He  seized  the  index 
finijfer  of  his  left  hand  between  the  index  finirer  and 
thumb  of  his  right  hand,  and  holding  it  in  the  manner 
of  a  gun,  pointed  it  towards  the  bluff,  looking  straight 
at  it  all  the  time. 

"'You  say,  captain  !'  ue  said  after  a  pause,  meaning 
that  he  wanted  me  to  repeat  my  re(|uest. 

'^'Now,'  I  said,  *3'ou  point  with  that  finger,  in  the 
direction  where  you  find  those  lumps  of  gold.' 

"'AH  right !'  said  the  Indian,  and  without  raising  his 
eyes  from  his  finger,  or  changing  his  position,  he  slowly 
turned  around  until  he  had  resumed  his  former  attitude 
— facinij:  the  bluff. 

"I  was  so  much  impressed  with  the  streak  of  humor 
in  the  cunning  device  on  the  part  of  the  Indian,  which 
left  me  a  fool  on  my  own  proposition,  that  I  laughed 
heartily  as  I  realized  how  I  had  been  sold,  notwithstand- 
insf  the  fact  that  niv  nieii  looked  ylum  and  aniiry.  In 
fact,  I  laughed  until  the  tears  rolletl  down  mj'  cheeks, 
and  the  Indian,  when  I  had  reco.  v  led  myself,  turned  to 
me  and  said:  'I  hke  you;  you  good  man.  You  no  get 
mad.     Good  man  no  net  mad;  bad  man  ofet  mad.' 

He  then  told  me  that  on  the  followinij  morning  he 
would  send  another  son  to  me.  I  should  give  him  some 
flour,  and  he  would  conduct  me  to  the  place  where  the 
gold  was.  In  this  respect  he  kept  faith  with  me,  but 
that  expedition  does  not  belong;  to  the  story  I  wanted  to 


17(i 


inN'riN';   lOK   r,(»i,i» 


l| 


ill 


tell,  wliicli  nil  Tilv  roiicrriis  llif  Iii)lia,ii  iind  his  iiitcr- 
|tr'ctiitJoii  of  M,  (•(iiitriict,  wliicli  wniild,  n«»  douUt,  liii\  <! 
imz/.l<'(l  ii, '  I  Miili(lcl|»lii;i  lawyrf'  in  ronr-L 

"I  liii\<;  nicnt/ioncil  tiif  so  ••alliil  '( lold  I>;ikc'  (ixcit.r- 
ni'^nt,,  wliii-li  \\;is  ciinsrd  hy  ( ';i.|il,;dn  St.oddjtrd,  who 
dffl;ir'<'<|  \]>-'.i  h<;  h;i(l  hrcii  ;i,t,  i,hc  wondcr'Tnl  L'd<c,  iind 
sho\v<'d  wh:d,  he  ;dic'^<'d  lo  he  ji,  wound,  on  his  h"^-,  inlhi'l,- 
•  ■d  hy  th<'  Indians.  ( !;i|)l.;iin  Stodd.'ird  s  ri'j)ort,  (•;inscd  (ho 
w  ihh'sli  (■xcit-cnicnl.  for  ;i  wliih',  ;i,nd  he  iih,ini;»,l.cly  under 
took  t,o  <'in(h!  ;t,  p.irlA'   <»!     miners   to    the  l;ikf    whoic  tho 

(;d»uh;US  U"i';isUn'S  were  sU|i|)OS<'(l  1,0  he.  Tlic  .slll.'lll  |t;i|- 
U'  tJial;  set  out;  ("or  t,hi'  hike,  '^radnidly  incrcjiscd  in  nuin 
i)rcs,  until  at,  hist,,  scxcral  t.hou-and  nun  nia(h'  towards 
t,h<'  L;oal  of  tJioir'  ant,irij»;i.t  ions,  witli  ;is  rci\cnt,a  dcsir'o 
t,o  roarh  it;  as  oxer'  inspir'od  tho  .Itw.sot"  ohi,  ni  loolviu'^ 
for  tJic  |)K»nHsi'd  kind. 

In  ro'^ai'd  t,o  t;his  cNpi'dit  ion,   Mr.     Ilason  t;rns  t,lic  I'o! 
h)win'4  st,or\',  which    tJirows  sonio  li'jht,  upon  tin'  nia,t,t,cr: 

"I  was  t,r'a  vchnodN  rr  t.iic  mount, auis  witJi  a,  compan- 
ion, on  a.  |ir'os|i.'ct,inL;'  t.oiir,  whou  one  o\cnin'^'  wo  niado 
our-  camit  at  thi'  hasc  of  a  \\\'^\i  hilk  I  ascended  tjie  hill 
t,()  taki;  a  look  o\cr'  tin;  sur'i'oundiii'^  countj'y,  and  t,o  my 
uliUftst  sur|)r'ise,  found  the  \;*lley  ali\c  witli  at;  hast; 
t.lir<'i!  thousand  people,  who  were,  evidently,  c.nnpeij 
tJiere  temporarily,  (^'allin^-  my  j)artner',  we.  descendi  d 
t(>iL,n'ther,  a,nd  joitK'd  the  throng;'.  I  found  tliere;i  man 
with  wdiom  I  had  cr'ossed  the  plains,  and  he  pointed  dut, 
to  me  (Japtain  Stoddard,  a  I  Miiladelphia  '^•entleman,  who 
liad  ollered  to  conduct  this  cr'owd  to  mw  di'^'^iuLj's  at, 
"(«oId  liake,"  when',  he  iia<i  asHiiPMl  them,  wealth  untold 

(•(»ui<l    1><^    l"oUM«l. 

"For  several  <lays  we  traveled  a,lon;j;,  (Japt^jun  St^od- 
dard  ■LTuidin^'  oiii'  <-our'se,  and  at  last,  u a;  j-ame  u])on  a 
lake  uesthul  amoii).^  '*''\y  iiiountains. 


J.     I  i 


o 

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o 
> 

H 

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11 

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17H 


HUNTINd    FOR    COLD 


Mi^ 


'  i, 

'■  'i 
[I 


' 


"'Tliiit  is  iti'  said  Jrtcddard.  'You  see  now  tJic  lake 
\vith  the  l>lu(!  water,  wliidi  I  liave  des(!ril)ed;  tlic  tlireo 
peaks,  and  the  Unj^  yoiidci',  wliere  I  (;ainpe(L  There  arc 
tons  of  gold  there,' 

•'About  four  hundred  men  at  onee  started,  on  a  run, 
for  the  sup[)oscd  1ol,s  l)ut  it  was  found  liard  to  gcit  at, 
and  wlien  ultiniattdy  r(!uelied  by  a  ('irouit«)US  route,  was 
found  to  he  a  l)ow]der  shajxul  soniewliat  like  a  lo<j^,  hut 
not  a  sit^n  of  *;'old  near  it. 

"Meanwhile,  tlu;  I'cst  were  deseendin*^  the  sIojh!,  head- 
ed by  Colonel  X and  ('aptain  Stoddard.       •You  say 

there    are  tliree  jxjaksf    said    the    Cohjiud     'but  I    s(!e 
five.' 

'  Stoddard  looked  in  the  direetion,  where  in  rt;auty  five 
peaks  towered  aloft,  and  then,  i^lancini;;  at  the;  lak(3  below, 
he  turned  deadly  pule. 

'What  ails  you  ?'  asked  Ids   companion. 

'When  I  i^'et  down  there.'  e.xclainied  Stoddard, 
evidently  i^reatly  distressed.  'I  sliall  not  be  abb;  to  see 
tlie  ])eaks — then  how  (;an  I  find  the  ^'old  V 

"Within  an  hour  it  had  become  evident  to  severa. 
thousand  men,  that  tluiy  rt^presented  as  many  fools. 
Not  a  traee  of  gold  was  found,  and  expectations,  hopes, 
anticipations  had  suddenly  turned  to  anger  and  a  thirst 
for  revenge  of  the  most  intense  nature.  'Hang  liim  I' 
'I  have  a  rope  that  will  hold  him  1'  'Here's  a  branch 
that  will  carry  him  !'  'String  him  uj)  !'  Sucli  were 
the  exclamations  mingled  with  imprecations  that  filled 
the  air  for  a  few  moments,  as  hundreds  of  men  made  'x 
rusli  in  search  of  the  Captain. 

Tlie  strange  conduct  of  the  latter,  and  his  incoherent 
talk,  as  we  a{)proached  the  place,  had  persuaded  Colonel 

X ,  myself  and  a  few  others  that  the;  man  was  crazy, 

or  at  least,  not  in  his  right  senses.     So,   when  the  mob 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


170 


f  1 


t' 

I 

h 

lit 
.'1 

V, 


approached  to  seek  vengeance  oi)  tlie  unfortunate  man, 
we  drew  our  revolvers  and  told  them  that  so  long  as  we 
were  al>le  to  defend  him,  no  one  iii  that  crowd  would  l)e 
allowed  to  hurt  a  crazy  man.  That  settled  it,  and 
although  tlu!  poor  fellow  was  made  the  target  for  a  good 
deal  of  abuse,  after  this  no  further  attempt  was  made  to 
kill  him. 

While  I  was  encamped  with  him    1    met    a    certain 

John  F. ,  of  Philadelpl\ia,  with  whom  I  had  had 

previous  dealings.  I  told  him  of  the  Captain,  who  also 
claimed  to  hail  from  the  Quaker  City.  "I  know  him," 
said  John.  "The  man  is  crazy.  He  is  the  son  of  an 
English  lord,  and  was  sent  to  Am(;rica  to  be  ke[)t  out  of 
the  way.  Ho  stayed  for  some  time  at  my  father's  house, 
and  a  certain  sum  of  money  was  paid  for  his  keeping." 

After  awhile  Stoddard  came  in  and  apparently  corrob- 
orated John  in  some  of  what  he  had  been  saying. 
After  awhile  the  young    Phiiadelphian  said  :  "You  say 

you  were  wounded  by  some  of  the  Indians,  show  me  the 

J) 
scar. 

Stoddard  uncovered  that  purt  of  his  leg  where  the 
mark  was,  which  he  alleged  was  the  result  of  an  arrow 
wound.  "That,"  said  John,  pointing  to  the  scar,  "is  the 
result  of  a  wound  received  from  a  fall  he  received  in 
Philadelphia  city  some  years  ago,  at  the  same  time 
breakingc  three  ribs." 

I  cannot  vouch  for  the  correctness  of  John's  statement 
but  at  all  events  it  helped  to  shield  the  poor  Captain 
against  the  revengeful  s[)irit  of  many  of  the  miners, 
whose  anger  it  took  sometime  to  cool  down.  After 
awhile  Stoddard  joined  Major  Downie's  camp,  where  he 
found  protection  against  any  attempts  to   annoy   him. 


I   ,M  ' 


H- 


FROM  OBSCURITY  TO  FAME. 

There  are  two  persons  wlioiii  I  remeinber  from  tlie 
early  days  of  Downieville,  whose  separate  Hves  after- 
wards took  them  out  of  the  hum-drum,  jjfeiieral  routine 
of  our  ordinary  existence,  and  led  them  into  the  paths 
of  strange  adventures  and  uncxpectixl  circumstances.  I 
allude  to  Colonel  Daniel  E.  Hunoerford,  and  his  dauiih- 
ter,  Mrs.  Louisa  Mackev,  wife  of  the  California  Bonan- 
za  Kino-. 

Daniel  E.  Hungerford  was  born  in  the  State  of  New 
York,  in  the  year  1812.  During  that  year,  his  father 
fought  against  the  British,  and  his  grandfather,  Dan- 
iel Hungerford,  fought  in  the  revolution.  The  family, 
wliich  settled  in  America  as  early  as  1628,  is  of  old 
Englisli  extraction,  and  can  trace  its  ancestors  as  far 
back  as  1325,  during  the  reign  of  Edward  II,  when  Sir 
Robert  Huno'erford  was  Knioht  of  Shire  of  Wilt.  Far- 
leigh  castle,  in  Somersetshire,  was  for  centuries,  the 
seat  of  the  Hunuferfords,  most  of  whom  distino-uished 
themselves  as  soldiers. 

It  was,  then,  an  inherited  military  spirit  which  drove 
Daniel  Hungerford  to  the  field  of  battle  when  the  Mexi- 
can war  broke  out,  notwithstanding  that  lie  had  a  young 
wife  and  family  to  leave  behind.  The  official  reports  of 
that  war  frequently  mention  the  name  of  Hungerford 
in  connection  with  "personal"  valor,"  and  indeed,  he 
proved  himself  a  man  of  extraordinary  metal. 

After  the  war,  he  came  to  California.  In  July  'A\)  he 
arrived  in  San  Francisco,  having  made  a  most  adventurous 
trip  overland  from  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  and  early  in  '50 


180 


HUNTIN(i    FOK    GOLD 


Iftl 


■X'i. 


the  youiii^  julvonturer  appeaiLMl  on  the  Yuba,  In  'ol  lie 
.settK'd  ill  Downieville,  and  went  into  |)artnershi[)  with 
l)i.  C.  D.  Aiken, with  whom  lie  contluetedadru!>l>uisne.s.s 
for  several  years,  meanwhile  bringing  his  family  out 
from  the  East.  He  organized  the  "Sierra  Guards"  and 
laid  the  commission  of  Major,  and  was,  in  '55,  presented 
with  a  magnificent  sword,  bearing  the  inscription: 

"Major  Daniel  E.  Hungerford,  from  the  Sierra 
Guards,  January  8  1855.  Vera  Cruz,  Cerro  (Jordo, 
Contreras,  Chapultepec,  Gariten  de  Belen.  Our  vol- 
unteers were  there." 

But  Major  Hungerford  also  had  an  opportunity  to 
distinguish  himself  as  a  soldier  during  that  period. 
After  the  Ormsby  massacre  he  led  the  troops,  organized 
in  Xevada,  against  the  Indians  in  the  Washoe  war, 
operating  in  conjunction  with  Colonel  Jack  Hayes  and 
Captain  Creed  Haymond,  and  to  Hungerford  is  accorded 
the  honor  of  the  Indians'  defeat.  He  also  headed  the 
first  navioation  of  Pvramid  liake.  With  him  was  a 
■party  of  thirteen,  nearly  ail  Downieville  men,  and  on 
the  island,  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  they  l)uried  a 
bottle,  containing  an  account  of  the  ex[)editi(»n. 

The  desire  for  adventure  afterwards  took  Huno'crford 
through  part  of  the  civil  war,  when  he  became  a  Colonel, 
and  afterwards  led  him  into  a  romantic  expedition  to 
Mexico,  which  was  fufl  of  interesting  details  and  at  one 
time  iiearl}''  brought  him  into  serious  trouble. 

After  having  for  some  years  engaged  in  railroad 
speculations  in  Texas,  and  other  enterprises,  he  retired 
from  active  life  and  now  resides  at  the  Villa  Ada,  near 
Kome,  with  his  son-in-law  and  daughter,  the  Count  and 
Countess  Telfener.  He  is  a  member  of  various  scientific 
societies  and  spends  his  life's  eventide  in  interesting 
researches  and  special  studies. 


1— r 


m 


lH-2 


HUNTING    I"OK    GOLD 


J.  coino  iKtw  to  tlio  second  cliaractur  in  my  sketch, 
Maria  Jjouiso  Antoinette,  i;enerally  called  by  her  second 
name,  the  eldest  daughter  of  Colonel  HunL'crf'ord. 
Mrs.  Hiingerford  was  a  Mademoiselle  Eveline  de  hi 
Yisera.  Her  }>arents  were  both  French,  hut  she  was 
horn  in  New  York  Citv,  and  had  received  a  liheral  edu- 
cation.  As  a  wife  and  n»other  she  set  x  brilliant  ex- 
ample to  most  women;  for,  although  devoted  to  her 
husband,  she  never  stood  in  his  way  when  his  patriotic 
nature  ur^vd  him  to  the  fi'ont  to  defend  his  country's 
honor,  or  when  his  adventure-sookinir  instincts  drove 
him  into  distant  fields,  where  he  expected  that  personal 
(|ualitications  would  warrant  success.  On  all  such  occa- 
sions she  sui)mitted  to  her  husband's  desire  and  iudjjf- 
ment,  hopinj^  for  the  best,  and  in  her  letters  ex[)ressing 
hyr  tender  love  and  devoted  prayers  for  the  absent  one. 

The  issue  of  their  marria^^'e  was  a  son,  who  died  as  a 
mere  child;  tlie  subject  of  this  sketch,  and  Ada  Elmira 
who  married  Count  Geseppe  Telfener.  In  '53  this 
family  followed  the  husband  and  father,  and  became  res- 
idents of  Downievilie.  I  remember  the  two  ij^irls  well, 
and  more  especially  the  elder  one,  whom  we  used  to 
call  Louise.  She  was  conspicuous,  not  merely  for  her 
beauty,  but  for  her  pleasing  personality  and  manners. 
Her  eyes  were  large  and  expressive;  her  features  soft 
and  round;  her  teint  of  a  fair,  delicate  tint,  and  her  hair 
fell  in  rich  tresses,  over  her  shoulders.  But  her  winsome 
ways  crowned  all  her  attractions,  and  denoted,  not  only 
excellent  breeding  and  a  rare  example,  but  also  a  warm 
and  generous  heait,  which,  indeed,  she  had.  But  for 
all  that — who  would  have  dreamed  that  the  little  I^ow- 
nieville  girl  would  grow  up  to  rule  like  a  princess  in  a 
fairy  tale.  She  was  raised  on  the  mines,  and  out  of 
them,  as  by  the  magic  wand  of  witchcraft,  rose  the  })ow- 


I 


lil.l 


.jlf 


184 


HTNTINC.    FOR    (iOI.I) 


I'    I  |i 


er  tluit  ill  Jit'tcr  years,  ^av«!  her  the   fame  tliat  slio  new 

L'llievs, 

At  th(Miu!;(^  of  seventeen  she  married  Dr.  E.  Kryant. 
This  prominent  youn^'  gentli'men  Iiad  become  atta«-hed 
to  her  tatlier's  stati",  hut  liis  career  was  cut  sliort  after 
two  years  and  a  lialf  ot  wedded  lite,  leavini;-  her  a  wi(hnv 
witli  a  hal)y  jn'irl,  thi;  present  Princess  Coh)nna.  Rarely 
perhaps  has  a  woman  had  to  pass  through  an  ordeal  as 
trvinu"  as  did  the  subject  of  this  sketch  durinii  that 
period,  l)ut  she  hore  up  with  a  fortitude  and  buoyancy 
of  temperament,  characteristic  of  the  soldier  child,  who 
had  inherited  her  father's  couraijfe. 

By  this  time  Colonel  Hungerford  was  figlitinj;'  under 
General  McClellan,  and  liis  wife  had  transferred  her  res- 
idence to  Virginia  City,  Nevada.  Thither  the  younL? 
widow  went,  and  in  order  to  help  matters  alon^;  durin,L( 
a  period  when  their  means  were  scarce,  she  established 
a  school  m  which  she  taught  English  and  French,  most 
of  her  pupils  being  miners,  and  belonging  to  all  grades 
of  society.  Amonu  them  was  John  AV.  ^lackav,  whose 
kindly  and  generous  nature  the  most  extravagant  change 
of  fortune  has  not  to  this  day  altered. 

The  fire  that  destroyed  Virginia  City  in  the  early  six- 
ties is  yet  remembered  by  many.  Among  the  havoc 
wrought  was  the  total  destruction  of  widow  Bryant's 
residence,  school-house,  and  all  her  worldly  possessions. 
Immediately  the  sympathizing  miners  circulated  a  sub- 
scription for  the  benefit  of  the  unfortunate  won:an  and 
her  mother;  but  wlien  it  was  presented  to  Mackay,  he 
looked  it  over,  put  it  in  his  pocket,  and  remarking  that 
he  would  attend  to  that  business  himself,  disapjteared 
down  the  shaft. 

And  he  did.  He  had  just  then  bought  the  control- 
ing  share  in  the  Hale  and  Norcross  mine  for  .$13,000  in 


wi 


Hl'NTIN(;    lOK    COLD 


185 


solid  i^old,  jiiul  lie  jukk-d  to  his  t'ortuiio  by  iiiiikiiii^  tlio 
luindsoine  widow  his  wife  shortly  after. 

The  pheiioiiu'iial  success  which  attended  Mackay  in 
his  lati-'r  career,  needs  no  historioi;ra|)her  here.  The 
innnense  wealth  which  he  amassed,  enal)led  him  to  place 
his  wife  in  a  position  in  which  she  hei^ame  world-famed; 
jind  in  after  years  the  little  Downieville  ,i»irl  has  exercised 
a  spell,  which  could  only  he  l)roUi,dit  ahout,  by  the  posses- 
sion of  extra  vaij^ant  means,  cond)ined  with  the  })ersonal 
attractions  of  Ijouise  Mackay. 

As  I  write  this,  I  have  before  me  a  leading;'  San  Fran- 
cisco ])aper,  which  announces  that  Mm.  Mackay,  after 
an  absence  of  sixteen  years,  spent  chitiey  in  Paris  and 
London,  has  returned  to  San  Francisco.  In  it  1  read 
one  paragraph,  whieli  entirely  endorses  my  own  views, 
already  expressed,  and  I  quote  it  here: 

"  Undoubtedly  the  impressiveness  of  her  j^reat  wealth 
and  the  enormous  array  of  attractions  it  can  buy,  has 
had  its  part  in  her  phenomenal  social  victories;  but  her 
natural  endowments,  her  (puck  wit,  and  her  great  tact^ 
liave  been  the  more  important  factors  in  making  many 
of  the  first  people  of  Europe  her  friends." 

1  will  not  finish  this  sketch  without  making  one  more 
allusion  to  her  husband.  He  has  often  been  judged 
harshly  and  hard  things  have  been  said  of  him.  Phe- 
nomenal success  is  often  foUow^ed  by  envy,  and  the  green- 
eyed  monster  will  plant  its  claws  in  a  man's  character, 
irrespective  of  truth.  Personally  speaking,  California's 
l)onanza  king  is  the  same  plain-spoken,  unpretentious 
man  iie  was  when,  years  ago,  his  hands  were  hard  with 
wieldinii-  the  miner's  tool.       He  strove  for  success  with 

rment,  and  he  is  eminei 


\grity 


J' 


intly 


deserving  of  it,  yet  it  never  turned  his  head  or  heart. 
I  wdl  close  with  an  instance  which  came  to  my  notice. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


|50     "^™ 


2.5 

112.2 

120 

1.8 


U    111  1.6 


^ 


/: 


c% 


^J> 


> 


°>  > 


A 


^\J>' 


V 


'V' 


''W 


V 


% 


I 


18fi 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


I   i 


J 


111  the  fall  of  1876  Edwin  Adams,  the  famous  actor, 
returned  to  San  Francisco,  having  completed  a  tour 
through  Australia.  His  health  was  broken,  his  purse 
almost  empty,  and  his  friends  in  San  Francisco  either 
dead  or  gone  away.  The  great  impersonator  of  Enoch 
Arden  was  on  the  verge  of  dispair,  and  was  daily  sink- 
ing, physically  and  mentally.  His  misfortunes  came  to 
the  ears  of  Mackay,  and  the  next  day  a  letter,  contain- 
ing a  check  for  $2,000,  was  recieved  by  Adams  to  the 
followinsi  effect: 

"  My  dear  Mr.  Adams: —  Knowing  you  to  be  in  some 
slight  financial  strait,  may  I  beg  your  acceptance  of  en- 
closed accommodation,  and  thus  permit  me  to  discharge 
in  part  the  vast  obligation  I  feel  in  common  with  hun- 
dreds of  others  for  your  efforts  in  our  behalf  I  trust 
that  we  may  long  be  honored  with  3'our  presence,  and 
that  our  stage  may  not  soon  be  deprived  of  one  of  its 
briijhtest  ornaments.  With  mv  best  wishes  for  vour 
success,  and  thanks  for  past  favors,  I  have  the  honor  to 
remain  your  obliged  and  obedient  servant, 

John  W.  Mackay." 

When  Mr.  Mackav  was  afterwards  told  that  Adams 
shed  tears  on  receipt  of  the  letter,  he  dryly  remarked: 
"Poor  fellow,  I  wish  to  God  I  had  sent  him  ten  thou- 
sand dollars." 

Those  who  know  the  millionaire  best  say  that  his  life 
has  been  full  of  such  acts,  but  he  is  one  of  those  who  lets 
not  his  right  hand  know  what  his  left  hand  doeth. 

And  such  is  the  character  of  the  man  with  whom  the 
Downieville  girl  was  destined  to  share  a  wonderful  for- 
tune and  a  life  full  of  romantic  events. 


A  SLAP-JACK  FIEND 

In  the  good  old  days,  when  "Wash"  Huglies  and 
Page  were  partners  and  ran  the  United  States  Hotel, 
the  air  in  Downieville  was  full  of  fun,  and  practical 
jokes  were  the  order  of  the  day.  This  caravansary  was 
then  a  big  institution.  It  stood  at  the  corner  of  the 
Upper  plaza  and  the  proprietors  were  doing  a  rousin<*- 
business,  having  always  a  number  of  constant  boarders 
and  the  trade  of  a  large  proportion  of  visitors  who  came 
to  Downieville. 

Among  those  who  occasionally  dropped  into  the  hotel 
to  get  a  meal,  was  one  particular  man  whom  the  waiters 
called  "Slaps"  and  as  that  is  just  as  good  as  any  other 
name  and  fitted  him  better  than  his  own,  I  shall  retain 
it  here. 

Mr.  "Slaps,"  was  not  a  regular  boarder,  either  there 
or  at  any  other  place.  He  was  one  of  those  individuals 
whose  erratic  means  do  not  always  permit  of  a  square 
meal,  and  wlio  therefore,  as  a  matter  of  course  and  self- 
defense,  would  ui)on  more  favorable  opportunities  counter- 
act the  evil  effects  of  limited  meals,  by  having  a  real 
iTOod  fill. 

If  there  were  a  thing  that  culinary  skill  and  a  ])loa  to 
the  waiter  could  produce,  which  tickled  the  palet  of  Mr. 
"Slaps,"  that  one  thing  was  Slap-jacks,  and  tiie  reader 
will  now  see  the  connection.  Slap-Jacks  were  to  his 
mind  more  palatable  than  paties  de  fois  gras  to  the 
gourmand  of  more  advanced  civilization  and  taste,  and 
fricassee  of  nightingales'  tongues  could  not  be  sweeter 

J87 


II 

it-'- 


"    tr 


188 


HT'NTINt;    KOK    (lOLD 


relish  to  the  oriental  i;]utti>ii,  than  were  the  hot  cakes 
of  the  United  States  Hotel  to  the  hero  of  this  sketch. 

Whenever  he  made  his  appearance  at  the  hotel  the 
waiters  would  give  one  anotlier  that  silent  sign,  consist- 
ing of  a  "one  and  a  half  wink"  with  the  left  eye,  which 
only  waiters  can  give  and  understand,  and  which  in  ordi- 
nary parlance  means  "Here  goes!"  The  visitor  would 
take  his  seat  and  assume  an  air  as  if  he  ran  the  place 
and  owned  all  the  slap-jacks — past,  present,  and  future 
conditional— and  call  out  "hot  cakes."  Then  the  fun 
began.  Our  friend  could  eat  a  plate  of  slap-jacks  in 
shorter  time  than  it  takes  to  tell,  and  no  sooner  disposed 
of,  he  would  call  again:  "Another  plate  of  hot  cakes, 
waiter,  if  you  please  !" 

It  had  been  attempted  several  times  to  count  the 
number  of  plates  he  ordered  at  any  particular  sitting,  but 
waiters  as  a  rule,  are  busy  men,  when  at  work,  and  the 
count  had  never  been  carried  through  so  as  to  supply  a 
true  statistic.  One  morniniif  there  was  a  rush  at  the 
hotel.  A  number  of  people  had  come  to  town  to  be 
present  at  aland  sale  in  the  neighborhood,  and  the  hos- 
tehy  of  Hughes  &  Page  was  crowded.  In  the  dining 
room  it  was  "waiter"  here,  and  "waiter"  there,  and  the 
obliging  servants  of  hungry  humanity  ran  to  and  fro  in 
their  endeavors  to  please  everybody,  racing  against  time, 
as  they  did  their  best. 

In  the  midst  of  all  this,  our  friend  of  Slapjack  fame 
entered.  The  busy  waiters  blanched  as  they  beheld 
liim,  they  knew  that  he  would  give  them  additional 
work  and  impede  progress- -and  he  did!  Three  help- 
ings followed  in  quick  succession.  Our  friend  yelled 
"hot  cakes"  till  strangers  dropped  their  knives  and  forks 
and  looked  about,  curious  to  see  the  "other  fellow," 
thiiddng  they  had  got  to  a  slap-jack  contest.     As  "Slap" 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


189 


made  the  final  lap  in  the  third  round  and  opened  his 
mouth  to  call  out  ''hot  cakes"  the  waiter  attending  him, 
lost  patience.  He  strode  into  the  kitchen,  where  Mr. 
Hughes  was  busy  at  the  time,  and  laying  the  case 
before  him,  asked  the  boss  whether  he  could  think  of 
any  way  in  wliich  to  satisfy  tlie  extraordinary  demand 
on  the  i)art  of  "Slaps." 

Mr.  Hughes  was  a  man  of  quick  perception,  and  he 
at  once  saw  his  way  clear  to  solve  tlie  i)roblem.  On  the 
top  of  the  stove  a  number  of  **slaps"  were  sizzling,  get- 
ting ready  for  the  table,  but  Mr.  Hughes,  with  one 
brush,  had  them  in  a  heap,  and  emptied  the  batter  buck- 
et over  the  top  of  the  large  stove,  dumping  about  three 
quarts  of  the  paste-like  mixture  upon  it.  In  a  moment 
the  stove  top  looked  like  a  geological  map  of  California, 
but  it  did  not  take  lono-  to  make  it  resemble  what  a  wit- 
ness  described  as  a  "cross  between  a  horse-blanket  and 
a  door-mat,"  and  when  it  was  finished,  it  was  put  on  the 
bi"i»"est  dish  in  tlie  establishment,  and  two  men  placed 
it  before  the  slap-jack  fiend,  just  as  he  was  about  to 
make  another  frantic  demand  for  mt)re  "hot  cakes." 

Our  friend  looked  at  the  slap-jack,  at  the  men  who 
brought  it,  and  at  the  people  around.  The  latter  \vere 
taking  it  all  in,  when  they  dropped  to  the  joke,  a  peal 
of  laughter  went  up  which  scared  the  stranger  and 
caused  his  hasty  retreat.  Since  that  day  he  never 
came  to  the  United  States  Hotel,  and  where  he  ate  his 
hot  cakes  afterwards,  I  know  not. 


YUBA  POETS  AXD  POETRY. 

DurinLj  the  oold  niiiiiiiir  (-lays  on  the  Yuba  a  «»oocl 
deal  of  poetry  has  been  written  by  local  men  of  talent 
in  that  district,  who  wielded  the  pick  and  shovel  durin*^ 
their  workinij  hours,  and  rode  Peoassus  durino-  their 
leisure.  It  is  true  that  the  verses  are  often  wanting-  in 
"feet"  and  therefore  somewhat  lame,  but  most  of  the 
authors  do  not  claim  to  i)e  more  than  sontjsters  of  the 
hour. 

I  have  thought  fit  to  mention  a  few  of  them  here,  as 
they  in  some  degree  express  the  sentiment  of  the  mining 
cam})  and  in  tlieir  very  simplicity  and  faultiness  are  often 
charming  illustrations  of  the  men  who  wrote  them,  as 
well  as  of  those  for  whom  they  were  written.  Foremost 
among  the  Yuba  poets  stands  W.  K  Weare.  Mr. 
Weare  had  participated  in  the  Mexican  war  and 
returned  with  honor.  He  was  for  many  years  mining 
on  the  Yuba  in  various  parts,  and  was  afterwards  a 
guard  at  the  State  Prison,  at  San  Quentin.  Mr.  Weare 
is  now  a  very  old  man,  and  is  living  in  Nevada  City, 
remembered  by  all  who  knew  him,  as  a  genial,  warm- 
hearted companion.  His  poetry  embraced  epics  and  lyr- 
ics as  well  as  odes;  heroic  poems  and  sketches,  and 
many  of  his  productions  are  very  good.  His  "Ode  to  the 
Pioneers"  is  remembered  by  many  as  a  very  impressive 
poem.     It  begins  as  follows: 

"Magician!  Memory!  break  the  epell  of  intervening  time, 

While  we  rehearse  the  deeds  of  all,  wrought  by  a  faith  sublime. 

Since  when  on  the  Sierra's  crest  a  Pioneer  first  trod, 

"When  all  was  wild  as  when  it  sprang  from  chaos,  or  from  God." 

190 


HUNTIN(i    KOK    GOLD 


191 


Tlie  ond  of  this  Ode    is  very  touching    in  all  its  sim- 
plicity: 
"How  every  day  we  hear  of  some,  whose  earthly  bonds  are  riven; 

Whose  hands  their  hist  deep    shaft  have    sunk,  their  last  long 
tunnel  driven. 
Let's  hope  that  in  the  fatherland  they're  called  on  to  explore, 

Are  treasures  richer,  brighter  far,  than  gold  and  silver  ore. 
For  while  the  glorious  West  shall  live,  the   pride  of  future  years, 

Thousands  of  liappy  homes  shall  bless  the  grand  old  Pioneers." 

Weare's  real  bend  of  mind  and  poetic  perception  comes 
out  well  in  his  poem  entitled  "San  Quentin's  Graves," 
in  the  foUowiny-  lines: 

"Yonder,  near  St.  Francis  City,  queenly — mistress  of  the  Bay, 
Stands  Lone  Mountain,  proud  and  stutely,  where  the  rich  and 
honored  lay. 
There  are  tombs — proud  mausoleums — spires  and  statues  tow'ring 
high; 
Dainty  in  their   sculptured  beauty — which  is  but  a  sculptured 
lie. 
Telling  to  the  humble  mourner  who  shall  seek  the  lonely  spot, 

Not  the  tenant's  life  relations,  but  precisely  what  was  sofc. 
Vain  are  all  the    towers  and   columns   raised   to   conquerors    by 
slaves; 
These  are  just  as  near   their  maker  as  San    Quentin's  outcast's 
graves." 

Indeed,  Weare  expressed  very  many  pretty  thoughts 
in  simple,  but  sympathetic  language,  and  when,  in  1879, 
he  published  a  volume  of  his  poetry,  his  old  friends  were 
glad  of  an  opportunity  to  secure  a  collection  they  had 
long  urged  him  to  bring  out- 
Following  is  a  poem  entitled  "Sierra  Buttes,"  the 
author  of  which  is  unknown  to  me,  although  he  was  a 
Yuba  miner. 

"Through  Time's  dim  vista  looking  down,  , 

Perhaps  frowning  o'er  some  ancient  sea. 
Dark  clouds  then  resting  on  thy  crown, 

And  all  around  thee  mystery.  .  • 


* 


lt)2  HUNTING    FOR    CiOLD 

•'Tlioii  watchest  the  fierv  crateiH  flow, 
And  inountains  lieaviug  at  their  birtli, 
Amid  the  molten  hiva's  glow; 

Before  mankind  had  touched  the  earth. 

"Still  towering  upward  into  space, 

A  landmark  when  the  morning  breaks, 
Yet  men  are  delving  at  thy  base, 

And  heeding  not  thy  darksome  peaks. 

"Time  fades,  yet  ever  rolling  on, 

Men  come  and  go  and  gaze  on  thee; 
Like  fleeting  shadows  they  are  gone. 
But  thou  art  for  eternity." 

Fred  Stone,  I  l)elieve,  is  the  author  of  the  following 
poem,  entitled  "The  Village  Maiden."  Fred  was  sonie- 
thino:  of  a  singer  and  had  a  tune  for  the  words,  which 
I  think  was  his  own  composition  although  it  may  not 
have  been  very  orio^inal. 

"Mother,  dear,  the  bells  are  ringing. 

There's  holly  on  the  window  pane; 
I  hear  the  distant  voices  singing, 

Christmas-tide  has  come  again. 
Winter's  mantle,  white,  is  lying — 

On  the  earth  lies  crystal  snow. 
Gleaming,  as  the  day  is  dying, 

In  the  sunset's  golden  glow. 

"Oh,  it  seems  so  hard  to  leave  you; 

To  the  earth  I  fondly  cling. 
Do  not  let  these  moments  grieve  you,     . 

Yet  I'd  like  to  see  the  Spring, 
With  its  sunshine,  all  its  flowers. 

And  its  perfume-laden  breeze ; 
Glistening  raindrops,  after  showers, 

Like  gems  sparkling  on  the  trees. 

"I  hear  no  more  from  absent  Willie; 
He  stays  so  long  beyond  the  sea; 
There's  the  faded  rose  and  lily, 
! .  Which  at  parting  he  gave  me. 


HUNTINC;    FOR    GOLD 


IIKJ 


e- 
ch 

lOt 


See,  I  i)reHK  tlieni,  Koftly  Hipfhiiij,', 

And  bodew  tlieiii  with  a  tear; 
They  are  dead,  and  I  am  dying, 

Dying  with  the  waning  year. 

Do  you  think  dear  friends  will  miss  me, 

"When  wild  mirth  will  freely  flow '? 
No  more  village  youth  Avill  kiss  nie, 

Underneath  the  miHtletoe  ? 

Nor  Old  Christmas,  ag'd  and  hoary, 

Bring  its  joys  and  hopes  to  me? 
'Tis  faded,  gone;  and  in  its  glory, 

Vanished  with  our  Christinas  tree. 

Hark  !  the  bells  so  joyfully  ringing; 

The  holly's  on  the  window-pane. 
And  soft  voices,  sweetly  singing — 

"Kiss  me,  mother,  once  again." 

Thus  she  sang;  her  heart  o'erladen; 

Her  parting  breath  she  softly  si<;hed; 
Death  had  claimed  the  village  maiden, 

Whils't  yet  'twas  Christmas-tide. 

Old  Sain  Hartley  took  to  rliyiiiing,  occasionally,  and 
one  of  his  productions  i.s  called: 

MINING  FOR  GOLD. 

I  have  traveled  this  world  wearily  o'er, 
Hailed  its  wide  seas,  viewed  many  a  shore. 
Seeking  to  find,  each  jjath  that  I  went, 
For  joys  once  found  in  a  gold  miner's  tent, 
That  stood  on  the  bank  of  Yuba's  rich  stream ; 
E'er  life's  fond  illusions  passed  like  a  dream; 
The  songs  that  we  sung,  the  stories  we  told, 
Down  by  the  river,  when  mining  for  gold. 
All's  changed ;  but  mj'  heart  it  feels  the  same  glow, 
For  frienas  a       old  times  in  that  long  ago; 
The  hills  are  as  grand,  as  stately  the  pines, 
But  where  are  the  friends  I  knew  in  the  mines. 
I  viewed  the  old  spot  where  the  log  cabin  stood. 
It  braved  the  stern  winter  storms,  and  the  flood; 
The  roof  has  gone  down,  the  logs  scattered  lay. 


I 


194 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLn 


i 


That  the  Iwiiul  of  ohl  timo  has  br()U<4'ht  to  ilct-ay. 

These  rafters  will  sinj,'  no  more  with  wild  >^\ve. 

Nor  make  the  lone  stranger  welcome  and  free; 

The  place  now  is  silent,  unlike  of  old, 

Down  by  the  river  when  mining  for  gold. 

Hearty  the  greeting  of  friends  we  would  meet, 

III  town  midst  the  throng  and  crowds  on  the  street; 

No  brow  was  o'ercast,  nor  tinctured  with  gloom, 

All  was  success  in  the  flats  or  the  tiuine. 

Many  are  scattered  to  come  not  again, 

Few  are  the  faces  we  see  that  remain, 

Hands  that  we  clasped  with  warmth,  now  ar(i  cold, 

Down  by  the  river — laid  under  the  mold. 

Botli  the  latter  j)oenis  were  sung  by  their  respective 
autliors,  one  Cliristnias  Eve,  u  jjfood  manv  years  a<jo,  in 
a  miner's  cabin  on  the  Yuba.  Tlie  night  was  cold  and 
wild.  Outside  the  snow  fell  fast,  and  the  wind  howled 
round  the  corners;  but  within  was  good-cheer  and  mer- 
ry comittinv.  In  the  midst  of  this  scene  of  comfort  aiul 
contentment,  a  knock  came  to  the  door,  and  upon  open- 
ing, a  stranger  staggered  in,  nearly  overcome  with 
fatigue,  cold  and  hunger.  He  carried  a  violin  in  a  case 
and  was  at  once  made  welcome  by  the  miners.  They 
did  all  to  revive  the  traveler  who  was  on  the  point  of 
succumbing  to  the  hardships  he  had  been  exposed  to. 
He  turned  out  to  l)e  Mr.  Frank  Littleton,  the  well- 
known  musician,  and  soon  recoverinsji"  under  the  influence 
of  an  exceeding  hospitality,  he  participated  in  the  enter- 
tainment and  played  the  accompaniment  for  the  two 
miners  mentioned  above,  as  they  sang  their  songs. 

A  frequent  contributor  to  the  poetic  corner  of  Sierra 
papers,  uses  the  pseudonym  of  "Miner."  His  produc- 
tions are  generally  descriptive,  and  in  the  following- 
poem,  entitled  "The  Snow-shoe  Kaces,"  he  has  given  a 
good  picture  of  a  local  sport  which  ailbrds  much  amuse- 
ment: 


HrXTIMi    I'Dk    ii()Ll> 


li>o 


When  Hiiow  lies  (l('c[)  (Ui  cvcrv  liill, 
Silence  reij(ns — the  birdn  are  still; 
Where  goM  is  nestlin;^'  in  the  mines, 
An<l  (lark  cliffs  rest  iinion;^'  the  i>ines; 
The  earth  is  robe*!  in  purest  white 
The  sun  gives  out  its  dazzling'  light; 
The  snnw-Hhoe  racers  each  in  place, 
The  given  signal  starts  the  race. 

People  in  cities  can  never  know, 
How  jollv  it  is  to  glide  o'er  the  snow. 

Down  the  mountain  side,  like  hirds  in  flight, 

Or  meteors  on  a  starry  night — 

Bending  low  to  miss  the  breeze, 

Flying  past  the  stately  trees, 

lUishing  down  to  tlat  below, 

Dancing  o'er  the  "beautiful  snow," 

Falling,  rolling,  seeing  stars 

Then  hear  the  laughing  crowd's  hurrah! 

Away  down  the  valley  where  oranges  grow. 
They  miss  all  the  fun  we  have  in  the  snow. 

Tin;  ladies,  too,  with  modest  grace, 

Will  take  their  chance  to  win  tlu!  race; 

Their  hearts  may  beat  with  fear  or  hope, 

But  each  has  got  her  lightning  "doi)e" — 

The  signal's  given,  oif  *hey  go; 

Pull  wild  at  starting,  scratching  snow, 

And  if  the  dears  ai*e  not  experts. 

The  air  seems  tilled  with  snow  and  skirts. 

They  try  again,  with  face  aglow, 
Determined  to  win  or  die  in  the  snow. 

When  darkness  o'er  the  hills  advance, 
The  sport  ends  with  a  social  dance; 
Chill  winter  thus  his  pleasures  bring, 
And  water  flows  with  early  spring. 
Then  glittering  gold  that  lay  below, 
Is  brought  to  light  by  melting  snow; 
The  track  is  gone,  but  beaming  faces. 
With  glee  recall  the  snow-shoe  races. 


106 


HUNTING    FUK    GOLD 


I         1 


People  in  cities  and  valleyH  may  know, 
"NVhen  it  is  fnlliiif^  there's  goUl  in  the  snow.^    . 

"Minor"  irt  also  the  autlior  of  a  poem  which  ho  calls 
"The  haniriiiLj  o\'  the  Mexican  woman,"  wherein  he  des- 
cribesa  scene  with  which  my  readers  are  already  familiar. 
I  apj)end  "Miner's"  version  and  verses  relative  to  the  inci- 
dent which  I  have  more  fully  described  in  the  preced- 
ino"  na-jfes: 

'Twivs  lon<^  ajjfo — a   /iily  morn — 

The  stars  paled  in  the  early  light; 
A  nmn  lay  stai'k  and  dead  at  dawn, 

His  life  ebbed  with  the  shades  of  night. 
A  woman  wronged  by  brawler's  strife. 

Bravely  took  the  avenger's  part; 
One  swift-aimed  blow  her  glist'ning  knife, 

Plnnged  deep  into  a  miner's  heart. 

Men  gathered,  then,  from  near  and  far, 

And  left  to  silence  raanv  a  mine, 
On  many  a  far-off  creek  and  bar, 

Then  shaded  by  the  oak  and  pine, 
And  rushed  to  swell  the  surging  throng. 

Like  gath'ring  streams  in  onward  flood; 
Men  thus  were  wildly  borne  along, 

Who  shrank  from  shedding  human  blood. 

The  hot  sun  shone  above  the  scene, 

The  river  murmured  in  its  bed, 
The  hills  were  clothed  in  summer  green. 

And  birds  were  fluttering  overhead. 
Friends  tried  to  shield  her — all  in  vain — 

They  brought  her  forth  with  wildest  jeers; 
The  die  was  cast,  her  blood  must  stain. 

The  annals  of  the  Pioneers. 


BRITISH 


COLUMBIA 


107 


!  ! 


Id 


oi 


CHAPTER   I. 

Arrival  at  Victoria — Sliai-p  Practico^ — Indians  Bring  the  First 
CJold— The  Hudson  Bay  Company — An  Energetic  (iovernor 
— A  Route  to  the  Mines — Joining  an  Expedition — Natives 
Surprised — The  Dame  and  the  Bullets — Adventures  on  a 
Stream — ^Lilooet  Lake — A  Favorable  Report — An  Attempt 
that  Failed. 

During  the  iiioiitii  of  July,  1858,  I  arrived  for  tlie  first 
tinio  in  Britisli  Columbia,  landing  in  Victoria. 

At  that  time  a  tremendous  excitement  prevailed  in 
this  colon}',  caused  hy  the  discovery  of  gold,  the  news  of 
which  had  spread  all  over  the  world.  Rumors  had  sped 
like  carrier  pigeons  to  the  remote  mountain  diggings  of 
California,  as  well  as  to  the  more  civilized  portions  of 
the  globe,  and  the  spirit  for  adventure  and  the  lust  for 
gold  once  more  drew  men  toward  a  connnon  center.  In 
this  throno-  that  flocked  northward  alon<j  the  Pacific 
Coast,  were  many  of  the  pioneers  of  the  Californian 
miners,  earlv  settlers  on  the  Yuba  and  American  Rivers, 
while  otlier  gold  fields  of  Alta  California  were  well  rep- 
resented. 

For  several  years  gold  had  been  known  to  exist  in 
British  Columbia,  but  it  may  not  have  suited  the  first 
Caucasian  discoverers  of  this  fact  to  reveal  the  same. 
As  early  as  '52  Mr.  McLean,  who  then  represented  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company  as  chief  trader  at  Kamloops, 
learned  of  the  presence  of  gold,  but  not  of  its  where- 
abouts. As  in  California,  it  was  the  native  son  of  the 
soil  who  first  brought  tlie  precious  metal  into  notice,  but 
as  in  the  latter  place,  the  priests,  for  reasons  already 
given,  sui)pressed  the  fact;  thus  the  keen   business  men 


, 


.,  1 


1 1' 


[i,:^l: 


m 

Ibiii 


; 


I  I 


200 


HUNTIXG    FOK    GOLD 


of  the  Hudson  Bay  Compaiiv  may  have  also  thouoht  it 
wise  to  remain  silent  about  the  matter.  The  Indians 
were  the  first  bearers  of  jrold  to  his  Caucasian  lord,  to 
whom  he  traded  it,  generally  in  the  form  of  dust,  for 
such  trifles  as  his  fellow-men — fairer  in  complexion  only 
— saw  fit  to  give  for  it.  But  by  degrees  the  truth 
leaked  out,  and  the  fact  was  revealed.  Adventurers 
came  from  the  adjacent  districts — Oregon  and  Washing- 
ton in  particular.  They  made  their  way  up  the  rugged 
country  on  either  side  of  the  Thompson  and  other  tribu- 
taries of  the  Eraser  River,  and  it  was  soon  apparent  that 
gold  was  plentiful.  Then  the  stream  of  immigration  be- 
gan. I  have  shown  how  at  this  period  the  Californian 
miner  had  become  tired  of  home  chances,  which  by  tle- 
grees  had  become  few  and  far  between,  and  with  his 
characteristic  hopefulness  he  had  left  his  old  claim  that 
paid  moderately,  or  his  sluice  and  tunnel  that  kept  him 
in  debt;  had  packed  his  pick  and  pan,  rolled  up  his  tent, 
and  like  the  Arab,  silently  stolen  away. 

To  one  who  had  profited  by  the  schooling  which  min- 
ing life  imparts,  as  much  as  I  had,  the  singular  conditions 
which  presented  themselves  in  Victoria  during  those 
days  did  not  seem  very  stran«j:e,  but  the  youth  wiio  had 
just  left  his  mother's  apron  strings  to  go  in  search  of  for- 
tune, may,  indeetl,  have  felt  some  surprise  at  his  first 
experience  on  the  road  to  the  new  liJi  Dorado.  The  crowd 
that  trathered  in  Victoria  was  larirer  and  more  mixed 
than  any  I  had  seen  before,  and  the  number  of  "sharpers" 
who  practiced  their  tricks  upon  strangers,  and  made  the 
poor  "greenhorns"  their  "ictinis,  was  astonishing.  I  re- 
gret to  say  that  in  several  of  these  unscrupulous  specu- 
lations I  recognized  some  of  my  old  Californian  acquain- 
tances, even  a  former  Downieville  miner. 

Provisions  became  scarce  at  one  time  and  prices  rose 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


201 


•st 
rd 

3d 

>> 

:lie 
re- 
cu- 
lui- 

ose 


accordingly.  Some  of  the  old  miners,  who  knew  from 
exi)erience,  what  hungry  men  will  pny  for  food,  comhimd 
and  offered  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  to  buy  the  bal- 
ance of  their  Hour.  Thus  they  secured  several  hundred 
barrels,  costing  $10  per  barrel  at  the  one  end,  and  a 
couple  of  dollars  per  pound  at  the  other.  Then  the  men 
became  disheartened.  They  went  to  the  Company  to 
incjuire  whether  all  of  their  Hour  had  been  really  dis[)osed 
of,  and  were  greatly  relieved  when  told  that  the  lot  sold 
merely  comprised  their  local  stock  on  hand,  but  that  in 
others  of  their  stores  they  had  plenty  which  they  would 
be  glad  to  sell  at  their  ordinary  rates.  Thus  the  schemes 
to  extort  money  from  the  miners  were  frustrated,  and  the 
speculators  suddenly  became  wholesale  dealers  in  flour, 
without  any  chance  of  realizing  an  expected  enormous 
profit. 

The  man  who  at  that  time  controlled  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  was  James  Douglas,  who  very  shortly  after- 
wards was  appointed  governor  of  British  Colund^ia. 
Mr.  Douglas  became  very  popular  with  the  strangers 
after  this  episode,  and  I  may  remark  here  that  the  officers 
of  that  Company,  throughout,  were  able,  clear-headed, 
and  very  accommodating  men.  I  have  had  nmch  to  do 
with  them  and  always  found  them  particularly  pleasant 
to  deal  with.  Another  corner  was  secured  by  a  former 
Monte-Cristo  miner,  whose  labor  in  California  had  been 
fraught  with  success.  He  bought  up  all  the  pans  in  the 
market)  and  for  awhile  pans  were  at  a  premium;  but  the 
mercenary  vendor  rendered  himself  so  nmch  detested 
throuoh  this  deal  that,  no  doubt,  he  had  occasion  to  re- 
gret  his  nefarious  speculation. 

The  gold  mining  of  British  Columbia  proved  some- 
what different  from  that  of  California.  In  the  first  place 
the  northern  Indian  was  not  as  easily  handled  when  the 


Ii    ^ 


202 


HUNTIN(i    FOR    GOLD 


(juestion  was  "(lio\i^in|Li"  tor  gold,"  as  was  his  more  south- 
ern hrotlicr.  The  reason  for  tliis  may  ])robal)ly  be  found 
in  the  diilerent  nuinner,  in  whieh  tlie  vahie  of  gold  was 
presented  to  him.  In  California  the  suave  priest  would 
not  apparently  place  any  value  upon  the  gold.  A  meal,, 
a  piece  of  elotli,  a  little  tobacco,  .. mil  if  the  Indian  pro- 
fessed Christianity,  the  absolution  from  his  sins,  would 
constitute  the  barter,  in  which  a  lump  of  gold  or  a 
(juantity  of  dust  represented  his  side  of  the  bargain.  In 
British  Columl)ia  the  proposition  was  very  difierent. 
The  mercantile  world  had  thought  fit  to  establish  proper 
business  relations  with  the  Indians.  They  had  traded 
with  them  on.  a  commercial  basis,  and  when  they  dis- 
covered that  gold  was  worth  anything  t<»  the  [)ale-face, 
they  had  accepted  and  received  for  it,  if  not  an  adequate 
value,  at  all  events,  a  value  which  was  measured  by  a 
business  propof"' ion.  Xo  wonder,  therefore,  that  these 
savages  objected  to  the  sudden  invasion  of  many  thous- 
ands of  men,  wlio  came  to  take  away  part  of  the  materi- 
al, for  the  finding  of  which  they  were,  in  their  own  esti- 
mation, handsomely  lewarded. 

But  in  addition  to  the  hostility  which  the  Indians 
exhibited  in  so  many  instances,  the  miners  had  to  con- 
tend with  the  difficulties  presented  by  tlie  natural  for- 
mation of  the  country.  Probably  no  [lart  of  the  world 
is  more  cut  up  by  rugged  mountains  atd  rushing  rivers, 
than  British  Columbia,  and  the  road  that  naturally  pre- 
sented itself  to  the  miner,  as  leading  to  the  upper  Fra- 
ser,  was  a  dangerous  one.  No  sooner  had  Douglas 
been  made  Governor  of  the  possession,  than  he  deter- 
mined to  send  out  a  party  for  the  purpose  of  finding,  if 
possible,  another  route,  and  he  commissioned  Mr.  J.  G. 
McKay  to  head  the  expedition,  which  I  was  invited  to 
join.    The  idea  was  to  find  a  route  to  the  upper  Phaser, 


HUNTING   FOK    GOLD 


203 


ItO 


via  Howe  Sound  and  Lilooet  Lake,  and  thus  avoid 
ascending  the  river  through  the  canyons,  where  the  tre- 
(juent  rapids  rendered  the  journey  practically  risky. 
Tliis  trip  attorded  nie  the  first  good  opportunity  of  mak- 
ing myself  acquainted  with  a  new  and  interesting  coun- 
try. 

We  went  first  to  Fort  Lani^ley,  where  we  were 
equipped  with  all  the  necessaries  for  our  expedition. 
The  so-called  forts  were  trading  posts,  established  in  va- 
rious parts  of  the  country  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Compa- 
ny, and  most  ot*  them  were  called  by  the  name  of  some 
prominent  ofiflcer  of  this  famous  organization,  which  at 
these  centers  carried  on  their  trafiftc  with  the  native 
tribes.  The  forts  were  all  constructed  on  the  same 
plan,  although  they  difiered  in  regard  to  the  number  of 
buildings  they  contained.  The  sites  selected  for  the 
forts,  was  commonly  a  spot  on  the  bank  of  a  lake  or 
river,  elevated  so  as  to  form  a  point  of  vantage  over  the 
surrounding  country,  and  the  buildings  of  which  the 
post  consisted,  were  constructed  of  hewn  timbers, 
and  varied  in  number  from  a  single  block-house  to 
fifteen  or  twenty.  In  the  latter  case  they  consisted  of 
one  or  two  large  houses  for  the  officers  and  clerks,  and 
the  quarters  for  the  mechanics  and  laborers.  In  addi- 
tion to  these  were  spacious  store-houses  for  the  recep- 
tion of  goods,  more  particularly  furs,  shops  for  carpen- 
ters, coopers,  blacksmiths  and  other  trades,  and  a  pow- 
der maofazine,  built  of  brick  or  stone.  In  some  few 
cases  the  posts  also  had  a  school-house  and  chapel. 

The  whole  of  the  little  settlement  was  surrounded  by  a 
strongly-built  stockade  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high, 
on  the  inside  of  vvliich,  near  the  top,  ran  a  gallery,  pro- 
vided with  loop-holes  for  nuiskets,  in  the  manner  of 
mediteval  tortifications.     The   picket-work  or  palisading, 


^1 


204 


;IUNTIX(;    FOR    frOI.I) 


MM 


■llill 


f--\n- 


i,; 


was  Hanked  witli  l)asti()ii.s.  of  vvhicli  tluTc  wore  ijenoral- 
Iv  two,  placed  diai'-oiuilly  at  the  coniei's  of  tlio  lort,  and 
inoiiiitcd  with  small  pieces  of  cannon,  and  jnovided 
with  the  •necessary  loop-holes  for  muskets.  In  foundin*^ 
these  posts  the  principal  items,  taken  into  considei'ation, 
•jfonerally  were  the  accessihilitv  of  the  location,  t)ie  num- 
ber  of  Indians  and  the  ahundance  of  tiir-itroducinu-  ani- 
mals  in  the  neighborhood,  as  well  as  the  soil  in  which 
grain  and  vegetables  were  raised  for  the  supply  of  the 
place.  At  nujst  of  the  posts  garxlening  and  farming 
were  carried  on  (juite  extensively  and  successfully,  and 
large  numbers  of  tine  cattle  were  raised;  while  at  oth- 
ers, less  favored,  the  bi'ave  representatives  of  the  com- 
pany had,  as  a  rul.  ,  but  a  scanty  supj)ly  of  food,  princi- 
pally c(jnsisting  of  salmon  and  other  fish,  with  such 
wild  fruit  as  the  Indians  might  bring,  and  occasional 
contributions  of  game.  The  latter  was,  however, 
already,  in  those  tlays  becoming  a  luxury,  owing  to  the 
persistency  with  which  the  deer  had  lieen  hunted  for 
years  for  the  sake  of  its  meat  and  the  antlers  of  the 
stag.  I  was  much  i  i pressed  by  these  forts,  when  I 
first  saw  them.  It  is  true,  that  they  offered  but  a  ]X)or 
[»rotection  against  modern  artillery,  even  as  it  was  then; 
but  they  presented  (piite  a  formidable  appearance,  and 
have  always  been  found  to  serve  their  purpose  well  l)y 
over-awing  the  Indians  and  successfully  resisting  their 
attacks. 

Fort  Langley  is  situated  on  the  South  side  of  the  riv- 
er Fraser,  about  twentv-five  miles  from  its  mouth.  It 
was  already  then  an  old,  extensive  establishment,  I 
believe  at  that  time,  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  Yale, 
who  held  a  prominent  position  with  the  company  The 
company  had  a  laro;e  farm  here  witli  a  considerable 
amount  of  stock.      The  land,  which  had   been    cleared  of 


t 
[ 

ie 


k 


SIR  JAMES    DOUGLASS,    K.    C.    B. 


]• 


-;--f" 


I  'if* 

ill 


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ll 


I 


I 


! 


mm 


I 


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I'.  I 


1 1 


:i! 


I 


2o(; 


HUNTINfl    KOK    (iOLD 


lieavy  tiinl)c'r,  produced  excellent  crops  and  vef»Ttal)les 
and  fruit  |j;re\v  in  abundance,  during'  their  respective 
seasons.  AH  tlirouo'li  ilie  district  were  small  piaii'ies, 
in  which  a  luxuriant  s^Towtli  of  jjfrass  aHorded  splendid 
|>asture  for  the  cattle,  'ind  yielded,  in  addition,  an  ahun- 
dant  supply  of  liay  for  the  winter.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  there  was  an  Indian  village.',  in  which 
dwelt  the  renniant  of  a  once  numerous  tribe.  They 
had,  however,  in  common  with  many  of  their  sister 
tribes,  who  enjoyed  the  close  association  of  the  pale-face, 
become  considerably  reduced,  both  in  nundjers  and  mor- 
als,  for  it  is  a  sad  fact,  that  in  the  contest  between  civi- 
lization and  savagedom,  the  latter  is  generally  annihila- 
ted. 

Ill  later  chapters  I  shall  liave  more  to  say  about 
these,  our  copper-colored  fellow-beings,  for  I  came  nuich 
in  contact  with  them  and  had  ample  opportunity  to 
observe  them.  Meanwhile  I  return  to  our  trip  in 
search  of  a  route,  by  which  the  miners  might  more 
easily  reach  the  regions  of  the  Upper  Fraser.  From 
Langley  we  took  the  trail  to  Howe  Sound  and  then 
steered  our  course  forLilooet  Lake,  arriving  there  after 
several  adventures.  We  got  a  right  royal  reception, 
when  we  approached  the  first  Indian  village.  The 
whole  population  came  out  to  meet  us,  but  the  welcome 
was  sent  per  musket  ball,  and  we  did  not  care  for  it. 
Some  of  the  braves  mounted  a  pile  of  wood  and  continued 
pointing  tlieir  guns  at  us,  but  I  realized  that  the  first 
exhibition  of  fear  would  mean  death  to  us  and  told  Mc- 
Kay  so.  Linked  arm  in  arm,  we  marched  bravely  for- 
ward, and  when  we  reached  the  base  of  the  stack  of 
wood,  we  held  out  our  hands  for  them  to  help  us  up, 
which  they  did  in  a  mechanical  sort  of  way,  apparently 
taken  aback  by  our  cool  demeanor.       My  eye   caught 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


207 


siuj-lit  of  one  old  (Uiino,  wlio  carried  a  lon^'  bai^,  apparently 
containing  lUnips  of  .soniethin«r.  iVty  cnriosity  was 
aroused,  and,  tliinkin*^  for  certain  that  it  was  gold,  I 
made  u[)  my  mind  to  lay  siege  to  tlie  good  will  of  the 
ancient  beauty;  but  I  entirely  lost  ujy  ambition  in  that 
direction,  wlien  I  saw  hci*  opening  the  bag  a  few  minutes 
later  and  take  from  it  a  number  of  muskets  balls,  which 
she  distril)uted  among  the  young  braves,  that  they  might 
make  holes  in  us.  Such  conduct  would  have  })Ut  a 
damper  on  the  good  opinions  of  her  most  ardent  admirer. 

After  awhile,  we  succeeded  in  making  friends  with 
the  Indians,  who  were  known  as  the  "ITnamish,"  and 
were  considered  a  somewhat  treacherous  tribe.  In 
return  for  a  nmsket  they  gave  us  a  canoe,  and  we  now 
followed  the  stream  thinking  that  we  liad  improved  our 
conditions  somewhat;  but  we  soon  discovered  that  the 
cant)e  was  too  small  to  be  of  actual  service  to  us. 
However,  we  made  the  best  of  it  for  several  miles  and 
then  came  across  another  canoe  on  a  bar.  We  left  a 
nmsket  in  payment  for  it  and  traveled  on,  after  having 
divided  our  pack;  but  we  had  not  gone  far,  when  we 
were  overtaken  by  the  owner  of  our  new  craft,  who  came 
after  us  in  another  dug-out;standing  up  in  the  bow  of  it, 
he  shouted  to  us  to  halt,  and  we  thought  best  to  obey. 
He  had  a  lt)ng  lua  tea  talk  with  Mr.  McKay,  who  gave 
him  some  tobacco  and  made  friends'  and  then  we  jiro- 
ceeded  up  the  river. 

I  must  admit  I  did  not  relish  our  navigation  very 
much;  and  I  sujipose  it  was  because,  at  that  time,  I  was 
unused  to  the  scenes  that  presented  themselves.  Every 
now  and  then  we  came  upon  Indian  villages,  and  every 
time  we  had  to  halt  and  keep  talking  with  the  inhabitants, 
who  came  down  to  accost  us.  We  also  had  to  o-ivo  them 
presents  at  every    place,  consisting   of  powder,  musket 


208 


HUNTINC.    l-OK    (ini.I) 


halls,  tobacco  or  other  things,  which  they  apprcciatcfd. 
They  had  adisaj^reeably,  insiiiuiitiiiijf  way  of  haiiL^iii<^  over 
the  i^unwale  of  our  canoe  with  hi*''  howie  knives  in  their 
hands.  It  is  an  old  sayinuc,  ^'^'^l  ^  true  one,  that 
familiarity  breeds  contempt,  and  I  suj>pose,  it  did  with 
me,  for  I  soon  became  accustomed  to  their  wavs  and 
took  no  notice  of  them  afterwards,  but  on  the  occasion 
of  my  first  introduction  to  these  people,  their  manner  of 
approachin<4'  strangers  ott'ended  niy  sensibilities. 

We  were  fortunate  enounh  to  be  able  to  leport  the 
possibility  of  traveling  by  the  route,  proposed,  and  reach 
Lake  Lilooet  1)V  it.  This  watershed  possesses  at  lea,st 
one  remarkable  feature — the  turbid  appearance  of  its 
waters,  which  are  of  a  dirty  green  hue.  This  is  quite 
an  exception  to  the  general  rule,  for  in  British  Colum- 
bia the  water  of  the  lakes  is  noted  for  its  remarkable 
purity  and  clearness,  the  lakes,  as  a  rule,  being  exceed- 
ingly deep.  The  reason  Lake  Lilooet  does  not  follow 
suit  in  this  respect,  may  be  found  in  the  tact,  that  the 
feeders  run  over  a  species  of  argillacious  earth,  which, 
no  doubt,  imparts  to  the  water  the  offensive  color. 

The  importance  of  our  successful  endeavors  to  find 
this  passage  could  be  only  fully  realized  by  men  who 
had  traveled  in  these  regions.  It  was  not  long  before  a 
proper  route  was  established  to  the  Fraser  river  by  way 
of  Lilooet  Lake,  the  Lilooet  and  Harrison  mines,  the 
Lilooet  Meadows,  lakes  Anderson  and  Seton,  these 
points  being  interspersed  witli  mule  trails. 

On  our  return  we  went  to  Nanaimo,  where  we  were 
kindly  received  by  Captain  Stewart,  Adam  Howe  and 
Dr.  Benson,  all  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Gover- 
nor Douglas  received  our  report  with  much  satisfaction 
but  desired  us  to  find,  if  possible,  another  short  route, 
which  could  be  utilized  at   once  without    any    further 


HUNTiNc;  KOK  (;oi,r) 


2(»'.> 


trouMc  ill  the  niakiiiL^  of  trails,  rtc  Tho  Govornor  liad 
a  tlioory  tluit  this  rould  ho  roahzed  hy  .startin;;"  tVoii.  a 
point  higher  U[)  (»ii  the  coast,  and  we  made  an  attempt, 
starting  from  Jarvis  Inlet,  hut  after  a  very  hazardous 
trij),  on  whieji  ^ve  suft'ered  numerous  liardshi[>s,  we 
liad  to  uhandon  the   idea,  as  wholly  impraetieahle. 


I    ; 


CHAPTER    ri. 

(^ueeu  ("Imvlotto  Islnml — (ndd  Harbor— Sootcli  Guy — The  Majesty 
of  Niitiire — Ciiptiiin  (ujld  -Potliitcli  —  I'oliticiil  ('iiiiipaij^iiH — 
Tott'iuH — Ar(!liit('ct.uro  iiiid  Art — An  IntcroHtinf^  I'ooplo — 
Vanity  of  ^Sllva{,'•ed()lu  -CuriouH  Customs — The  Denth-dauce 
— Myth  and  Legend. 

Early  in  tlio  yoar  185!)  I  was  ono  of  a  party,  oiiil)ark- 
injj^  tor  tilt)  QuooM  Charlotte  Islands.  Wo  had  chart- 
ered a  sehooHi'r  in  eonimand  of  Captain  llobinson,  and 
my  intention  was  to  prospect  the  islands  for  ^old  and 
afterwards  ex [)lore  the  cost  of  the  mainland,  as  (gover- 
nor Douglas  was  anxious?  to  know  more  about  the 
numerous  iidets  there,  as  well  as  the  possibility  of  loca- 
tin_i^  an  available  pass  for  the  buildinijf  of  the  projected 
Great  Canadian  and  Pacific  Railway. 

We  were  a  band  of  twenty-seven  miner?,  all  old  hands 
and  well  tried,  and  we  steered  our  course  for  Gold  Har- 
bor on  Moresby  Island,  but  only  to  find  it  a  second  Gold 
Lake  of  California  fame.  We  carefully  examined  a  spot 
where  a  large  (quantity  of  gold  had  been  taken  out  some- 
time before,  but  could  not  find  anything  worth  work- 
ing, although  we  saw  quartz  and  did  some  blasting. 
The  general  nature  of  the  rock  was  trap  and  hornblend, 
and,  at  the  head  of  Douglas  Inlet,  we  found  gran- 
ite, as  well  as  slate,  talcose  rock  and  coal,  but  not  gold; 
and  I  concluded,  tliat  the  large  amount  of  this  metal, 
which  had  been  found  previously  in  those  parts  with  so 
little  difficulty,  existed  merely  in  what  the  miners  call 
an  oflT-shoot  or  blow-out,  which  can  only  be  explained  as 
one  of  those  freaks  of  nature,  so  often  found  in  a  min- 
ing country. 


HUNTINCi    FOR    GOLD 


'ill 


In  the  Ski(l<;iite  Clianiic'l  wa  nut  with  but  littln  bet- 
ter succosH.  We  were  wind-bound  For  some  time  near 
tiie  Casswer  Indian  village,  where  we  discovered  traces 
of  previous  prospcicting.  Here  the  indicatioi»s  of  jjjold 
were  ci'rtainly  more  distinct.  We  met  an  Indian  Ciiief, 
who  to  accommodate  us  gave  lii^'  name  as  Scotch  (iuy. 
He  wore  a  large  piece  of  gold,  weighing  probably  two 
ounces,  but  he  could  not  be  persuaded  to  tell  us,  where 
he  found  it.  As  to  ourselves,  we  could  not  find  any 
gohi.  There  was  plenty  of  sulphurate  of  iron,  talcose 
slate,  and  red  earth,  and  I  received  the  impression,  that 
the  natives  there  are  first-class  prospectors,  and  know 
all  about  ijold  mininy;. 

The  coast  from  Casswer  village  to  Skidgate  Channel 
presents  some  of  the  wildest  scenery,  I  have  ever  seen. 
The  rocks  rise  like  mighty  giants,  daring  the  approach- 
ing sailor  to  set  foot  on  the  island  they  guard.  They 
stand  bold  and  defiant  with  the  scars  of  ajjes  seaminy; 
their  sides  in  the  shape  of  rifts  and  fissures,  and,  at 
their  feet,  the  waters  roll  with  a  strong  underswell 
towards  the  uninvitiny;  shore.  But  here  and  there  a 
narrow  inlet  will  admit  the  traveler  into  a  small  natural 
harbor.  Also  this  may  be  surrounded  by  towering 
mountains,  reariny;  aloft  with  the  same  threatening; 
appearance,  while  here  and  there  a  waterfall,  like  a  thun- 
!  dering,  splashing  cascade,  throws  its  contents  into  the 
otherwise  quiet  harbor  and  makes  its  waters  turbulent. 

An  investigation  of  the  northwest  portion  of  the  isl- 
and revealed  the  fact  that  it  consists  chiefiy  of  low,  sandy 
or  gravel  flats  with  no  indications  of  being  a  gold  bear- 
ing country.  We  therefore  gave  up  our  search  for  gold 
in  these  quarters  and  set  sail  for  the  mainland,  intending 
to  explore  the  country  from  Fort  Simpson  to  Fort  St. 
James. 


im 


'!•! 


'i'lii 


1 

.  -    ■ 

i» 

. 

212 


Ht'NTI\r.    FOR    GOIJ) 


But  wliile  I  have  tliu.s  hricfly  taken  my  reader  over 
what  I  may  call  the  business  portion  of  my  first  trip  to 
Queen  Charlotte  Island,  I  propose  to  dwell  a  little  longer 
on  tlie  natural  conditions  that  came  to  niv  notice, 
whilst  there.  I  consider  this  part  of  the  world  a  highly 
interesting  one  and  my  observation  of  the  Indians  showed 
them  to  be  a  race,  different  in  many  respects  to  the 
ordinary  redskin. 

The  large  group  of  islands  was  originally  discovered 
in  the  year  1774  by  a  Spanisli  navigator,  named  Juan 
Perez,  who  called  them  Caho  De  St.  Martj^arita,  but  as 
early  as  1787  a  Captain  Dixon,  in  command  of  the  ship 
"Queen  Charlotte,"  gave  them  their  present  name,  and 
during  the  following  year  Captain  William  Douglas  of 
the  ship  "Iphigenia,"  with  a  poition  of  his  crew,  were  the 
first  white  men  who  sat  foot  on  the  islands,  landing  in 
Parrv  Sound  and  establishino-  the  first  trade  with  the 
natives.  However,  up  till  the  time  when  I  first  visited 
these  Islands,  no  systematic  attempt  had  been  made  to 
explore  them,  with  the  exception  of  one,  made  by  the 
French  adventurer,  Captain  Etienne  Marchand,  who  in 
the  year  1791  with  the  ship  "Solide,"  visited  the  south- 
ern seas  and  explored  a  small  portion  of  this  archipelago. 
Since  my  first  visit  to  these  islands  the  Colonial  govern- 
ment has  done  much  to  ascertain  the  nature  of  them 
and  has  made  exact  charts  of  the  group,  and  I  may 
mention  the  name  of  Newton  H.  Chittenden  as  a  gentle- 
man, who  has  spared  no  efforts  to  explore  them,  gaining, 
as  a  result,  not  only  much  knf)wledge  as  to  their  phys- 
ical condition,  but  also  learning  many  interesting  facts 
about  their  inhabitants. 

The  whole  group  is  said  to  consist  of  some  150  islands. 
They  are  separated  from  the  mainland  l)y  Queen  Char- 
lotte Sound,  which  varies  in  width  from  thirty  to  eighty 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


213 


miles.  Their  most  southern  point,  Cape  St.  James,  is 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  nearest  point  of 
Vancouver  Island,  and  to  the  north  they  are  separated 
from  the  Prince  William  ^^^roup  of  x\laska  by  Dixon 
Entrance,  having  an  average  width  of  about  thirty 
miles. 

The  general  physical  conditions  of  this  archipelago 
would  give  the  impression  that  it  is  merely  the  remnants 
of  a  terra Jirma,  which,  through  some  fearful  revolution, 
has  been  reduced  to  a  most  bewildering  labyrinth  oi 
islands  and  islets,  separated  by  sounds,  straits,  passages, 
and  fringed  with  inlets  of  the  most  phantastic  shapes. 
Thn)U!j::h  the  entire  lenorth  of  the  islands  runs  a  mount- 
ain  chain,  ranging  in  higlit  from  si\  hundred  to  five 
thousand  feet,  covered  with  an  evergreen  forest  of  spruce, 
hemlock  and  cedar,  which,  with  few  exceptions,  stretch 
from  their  summit  to  the  coast.  The  exceptions  occur 
where  the  coast  in  sonic  j)laces  is  rock-bound,  and  in 
others  is  found  of  sandy  soil . 

Many  remarkable  eflects  are  produced,  both  in  scenic 
and  geological  respect,  where  the  coast  is  rocky.  In 
some  places  the  highest  elevations  on  the  immediate 
coast  do  not  exceed  four  hundred  feet,  while  in  others 
bold,  rocky  bluffs  rise  to  the  highth  of  eight  hundred 
feet,  at  times  as  high  as  twenty-five  hundred  feet,  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  the  mountains  bordering  on  the 
inlets,  presenting  an  almost  perpendicular  front. 

There  are,  I  suppose,  an  uncounted  number  of  streams 
on  these  islands.  They  are  naturally  only  short,  but 
rush  towards  the  ocean  with  swift  currents,  and  fall  into 
the  larger  waters  with  a  thundering  noise,  as  they  leap 
down  the  steep  rocks  or  make  their  way  over  the  more 
gradual  mountain  slopes.  They  add  considerably  to  the 
grandeur  of  this  singular  nature,  which  on  the  whole  is 


4 


'p 


\l      I' 
i  •  ,i 


\ !  ■  111 
ii 


i  hi 


bib 


Bin 


M|||i 


U 


1 

I;    ■ 

I 

f 

214 


HrNTIXC,    FOR    OOLI) 


exceudiii^'Iy  jucturesquo,  foriiiinL»'  wonderful  scenes,  in 
which  blend  the  (jcean  hlue  and  the  forest  verdure,  with 
the  silver  spray  of  the  rivers  and  the  .solemn  rocks  that 
rise  where  the  breakers  toss  their  white-capped  heads  at 
their  feet. 

If  the  theory  be  correct,  that  these  islands  at  one 
time  belonged  to  a  terra  jirma,  a  portioii  of  which  is  now 
buried  beneath  the  rolling'  waters,  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  this  land  was  gold  bearing  and  probably 
richly  so.  The  gold  found  in  '52  in  Mitchell  Harbor, 
bt^tter  known  as  Gold  Harbor,  may  have  been  a  corner, 
broken  away  from  a  large  and  rich  supply,  which  now 
lies  many  faohoms  below.  In  parts  of  the  island  there 
are  indications  of  gold,  but  I  have  not  learned  as  yet, 
that  any  quantity  has  been  found  since  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  took  out  the  gold  referred  to,  the  presence  of 
it  beino'  revealed  by  an  Indian,  known  ever  since  as 
Captain  Gold  The  whole  of  that  quantity  amounted  to 
only  $5,000,  which  after  all  was  nothing.  I  have  aln^ady 
mentioned  the  existence  of  coal  in  some  place-  and  I 
think  tliat  copper  might  be  found  on  the  island,  at  least 
1  saw  indications  of  it  on  Moresby  Island.  But,  notwith- 
standing the  evident  trace  of  gold,  coal  and  copper,  to 
this  day  neither  of  these  minerals  have  been  found  in 
sufHcient  (juantity  to  warrant  the  expense  of  working 
them.  They  are  merely  there  as  pointing  to  the  exist- 
ence of  larger  stores  of  their  own  kinds  hidden  some- 
where in  that  wonderful  architecture  of  that    locality. 

I>ut  where ^     That  is  the    o'reat    enis^ina,   which 

remains  unsolved.  No  feature  of  these  islands,  however, 
surpassed  in  interest  the  natives,  who  are  called  Hydah 
Indians.  To  me  the  study  of  man  has  always  been  more 
attractive  than  anvthino-  else  I  know  of,  and  I  have  had 
great  o[)[)ortunities  for  practicing  it  under  varied  circum- 


> 


IINDAH    INDIAN    CHIEFS. 


21« 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


i 

I?  I  PI 

hi!, 


m 


\'i 


r  il!  ^I'i 


ittil: 


I 


stances,  applying  my  observations  to  human  beings  of 
tlitlerent  races  and  nationalities. 

The  Hydah  Indian  is  probably  the  finest  savage  I 
have  ever  had  the  pleasure  <  ''  meeting,  and  I  shall,  at 
all  events,  always  feel  kindly  towards  liim,  when  I  rec- 
ollect, that  he  never  showed  any  desire  to  scalp  me  or 
in  any  other  way  molest  me,  which  is  a  good  deal  more 
than  I  can  say  for  his  brethren  on  the  niaiidand.  They 
are  not  a  handsome-featured  people,  and  their  women 
lack  graceful  movements.  Their  hair  and  eyes  are  very 
black;  their  teeth  shining  white  and  their  complexions 
of  an  olive  hue.  The  averajje  hight  of  the  male  is  about 
five  feet  seven  inches,  and  both  men  and  women  have 
finely  developed  chests  and  forearms,  caused  by  their 
incessant  handling  of  the  oars;  for  they  are  the  best 
boatmen  I  have  ever  met,  and  in  saying  this  I  refer  to 
both  sexes.  They  have,  indeed,  an  amphibious-like 
nature,  for  they  seem  to  be  as  much  at  home  in  the 
water  as  they  are  ashore,  and  for  feats  of  diving  and 
swinnning  their  equals  are  not  easily  found. 

Their  political  institutions  seemed  to  me  to  have  nuich 
in  common  with  our  own  American  ways.  The  man 
who  wishes  to  become  chief  has  to  pay  dearly  for  the 
honor.  The  payment  consists  of  a  feast,  which  often 
lasts  for  days.  Everybody  is  then  invited  and  hand- 
somely entertained,  and  blankets  are  distributed  in  great 
numbers.  It  will  be  seen  by  this,  that  the  idea  of  buy- 
ing friends  in  a  political  campaign  is  by  no  means  a 
result  of  progressive  American  civilization,  but  rather  a 
return  to  savagedom.  At  all  events,  he  who  entertains 
the  handsomest;  who  has  the  most  money  to  spend  and 
can  make  himself  most  popular  through  his  means,  wins 
the  contest,  which  is  often  most  bitterly  fought.  These 
feasts  are  called  potlaich,  a  term  which  indicates  the  dis- 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


217 


d- 

sat 


Ins 
pd 
us 
Ue 
lis- 


tinetion  of  certain  things,  and  they  are  celebrated  on 
various  occasions,  such  as  tlie  funeral  of  a  deceased 
nieniber  of  the  tribe,  the  inauguration  of  a  new  house, 
etc. 

Strangely  enough,  when  I  first  knew  these  people, 
the  nussionarics  did  not  seem  to  have  had  much  to  do 
with  them,  and  wliat  civilization  they  had  appeared  to 
me  to  have  been  carried  to  them  [)rhici[)ally  through 
traders  and  more  in  particular  through  the  Hudson  Bay 
Com))any.  They  were  very  distinctly  classified,  not 
only  in  castes  but  also  in  ditlerent  tribes,  which  had  evi- 
dently been  done  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  too  close 
intermarriage.  Each  one  of  these  tribes,  or  families, 
has  its  own  crest,  which  is  fre(piently  engraved  upon 
their  belongings.  They  are  called  ^o^emsand  the  natives, 
belonging  to  the  same  totem,  are  forbidden  to  intermarry. 
They  have  a  number  of  these  totems,  known  in  their  own 
language  as  the  eagle,  the  wolf,  the  crow  and  so  on. 

Their  moral  standard  did  not  appear  to  be  very  high, 
and  they  were  in  absolute  ignorance  of  tlie  sentiments 
expressed  in  a  good  many  of  the  ten  commandments,  or 
otherwise  they  utterly  disregarded  them.  As  I  have 
said,  they  were  not  blood-thirsty,  but  they  often  forgot 
to  distinijfuish  between  our  belono"in«xs  and  their  own,  and 
were  frequently  persistent  in  insisting  upon  a  potlatch, 
or  distribution  of  our  efl'ects  among  tiieniselves. 

As  mechanics  they  far  surpassed  what  I  had  then 
seen  of  savaoje  skill  in.  this  direction,  and  their  villasfes 
were  to  me  a  most  wonderful  sight.  They  had  learned 
from  the  traders  to  build  proper  houses  and  constructed 
some  very  comfortable  habitations,  which  nearly  always 
presented  the  gable,  to  what  I  should  call  the  front. 
But  tlieir  poles  were  the  most  singular  feature  about 
the  villages.     The  proper  meaning  of  these  poles  I  have 


m 


\    :l 


I 


!  ^ 


218 


HUNTING    FOR    (iOLD 


M!  I 


never  learned,  Imt  tbev  tower  like  hu*j^e  eolunins  from 
tliirtv  to  seventy  feet  in  hiiji'lit  outside  nianv  of  their 
houses.  They  are  covered  from  the  base  to  the  apex 
with  carvings  of  the  most  grotesque  order.  It  nmst  he 
said,  that  in  the  art  of  carving  these  savages  stand  very 
high,  more  es[)ecially  considering  the  few  and  })rimitive 
implements  with  which  they  do  their  work.  I  havt' 
seen  later  in  Alaska  similar  artistic  work;  but  when  foi- 
the  first  time  T  beheld  it  at  the  villaije  of  Gold  Harbor  on 
Maud  Island,  I  was  fairly  taken  aback.  Not  only  are 
their  columns  decorated  with  such  carvings,  but  everv 
other  conceivable  thing  belonging  to  them,  such  as  their 
a.\  handles,  oars,  canoes,  even  spoons  or  drinking  vessels, 
and  they  appear  to  think  nothing  worth  having  which 
has  not  been  artistically  carved.  Their  skill  in  building 
canoes  is  very  wonderful,  and  it  is  a  question  to  me, 
whether  any  other  nation,  savage  or  civilized,  can  })r()- 
duce  better  boats  for  speed  than  these  people,  whose 
principal  boat  building  place  is  at  Massett. 

They  have  the  same  hankering  for  personal  adorn- 
ments as  their  Caucasian  fellow-beings,  and  their  women 
more  particularly  do  not  give  their  fairer  sisters  any 
odds,  although,  as  a  matter  of  course,  they  differ  in 
stvle  and  fashion.  When  I  first  came  amonu;  them, 
European  fashions  were  not  much  in  vogue,  although 
later  on,  the  blanket,  breech  cloth  and  leather  coverings 
have  been  discarded  for  cloaks  made  from  the  skin  of  the 
sea  otter,  proper  pants  and  dresses,  and  woven  under- 
wear, but  in  common  with  all  savage  races  boots  are  the 
last  portion  of  civilized  dress  tliey  will  adopt.  By  way 
of  ornamentation,  men  and  women  tatooed  themscKcs, 
often  profusely  so,  and  here  again  the  tote)ii>i  frtMjuently 
appear.  Tlie  women  were  quite  clever  at  braiding  and 
manufactured  a  kind  of  hat,  which  they    wore.     They 


huntinCt  I'OR  gold 


2r.> 


also  prepared  certain  i)aiiits,  with  whicn  they  covered 
their  faces,  and  for  this  purpose  they  used  verniillion, 
common  cliarcoal,  deer  talh)vv  and  other  inLjrecUents, 
which  shoved  tliat  the  artist  of  the  liare's  foot  and  tlie 
inventors  of  beauty  powder  and  face  enamel  are  by  no 
means  original  in  their  endeavors  to  hide  nature's  own 
gift.  For  additional  ornament  both  perforated  the  sep- 
tum of  the  nose  and  inserted  a  silver  ring,  and  the  women 
often  decorated  their  fingers  with  a  nund)er  of  rings  and 
used  feathers,  mother  of  pearl  and  a  variety  of  shells  for 
further  decoration. 

Their  social  enjoyments  were  mostly  confined  to 
dancing  and  masquerades  and  they  exhibited  great  in- 
genuity in  their  make-up.  Their  object  seemed  generally 
to  be  to  imitate  the  animals,  which  rove  throuixh  the 
forests  of  their  island  home,  but  not  only  did  they  wear 
on  their  own  heads  the  heads  of  bears,  deer,  goats  and 
other  animals,  as  well  as  masks,  representing  birds,  but 
they  were  also  adepts  at  imitating  on  r^ed  whistles  the 
shrill  cry  of  manv  of  the  wild  forest  birds.  Thev  also 
wore  other  masks  with  moving  eyes  and  lips  and  a  most 
hideous  expression.  On  festive  occasions  they  wore  a 
shawl  of  their  own  manufficture,  which  was  of  a  [)artic- 
ularly  fine  texture  and  made  from  the  wool  of  the  mount- 
ain goat.  In  their  hands  they  carried  small  hoops,  to 
which  were  attached  a  number  of  birds'  beaks,  and  with 
these  they  produced  a  noise  resembling  the  sound  of 
castanets.  While  this  diabolic  concert  is  ofoinsj:  <>ii  the 
dancers  scatter  the  soft  down  of  birds,  until  the  air  is 
filled  with  them,  and  it  may  be  easily  understood  that  to 
the  stranojer,  who  for  the  first  time  witnesses  this  scene, 
the  eti'ect  is  i)erfectly  bewildering. 

Most  characteristic  of  all  is  the  so-called  death-dance, 
performed  by  one  single  individual,  who  runs  through 


t 


in 


'I  I 


f 


220 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


'     ! 


the  villai^e  like  a  iiiadiium,  vveariiij^  notliing  but  a  loiii- 
clotli.  As  he  ruslies  past  the  liouses,  lie  imitates  the 
hideous  shriek  of  some  wild  beast,  and,  seizing  an}'  ani- 
mal, which  may  happen  in  his  way,  he  tears  it  to  pieees 
and  devours  a  portion  of  the  raw  Hesh. 

They  do  not  appear  to  have  any  relii^ious  cleas,  out- 
side that  of  the  great  spirit,  whose  aid  they  implore, 
when  emVjarking;  in  any  undertaking,  and  his  opposite, 
which  would  correspond  with  the  devil  ot  other  beliefs. 
They  do  not,  however,  have  any  graven  images  of  either 
of  these  powers,  and  I  imagine  their  ideas  of  them  are 
somewhat  vague. 

They  have  at  the  same  time,  certain  traditions  or 
legends,  which  are  handed  down  to  them  as  myths 
from  a  remote  antiquity.  Thus  they  account  tor  the 
creation  of  men  by  relating,  that  when  the  whole  earth 
was  covered  with  water,  a  raven,  tlie  only  living  crea- 
ture left,  heard  cries  issuing  from  a  shell  lying  on  a 
protruding  rock,  and  upon  examining  it,  discovered  with- 
in a  woman  and  a  child,  whom  he  brought  forth.  He 
married  the  woman,  and  thus  became  the  father  of  the 
whole  Indian  race. 

Another  singular  myth,  explains  tlie  origin  of  the 
heavenly  bodies.  They  say  the  raven  also  discovered 
that  a  powerful  chief  owned  the  moon,  which  he  had 
hidden  in  some  obscure  place,  that  no  one  might  find  it. 
The  same  chief  had  a  daughter,  who  was  the  mother  of 
a  young  baby,  and  one  day  the  raven  did  away  with  the 
infant,  and  assuming  its  appearance,  took  its  place.  He 
was  petted  and  cared  for,  and  when  he  disc»)vered  where 
the  moon  was  kept,  he  begged  so  hard  to  be  let  in  to 
see  it,  that  the  chief  ultimately  took  him  into  the  cham- 
ber. But  no  sooner  was  the  supposed  grandchild 
there,  than  he  again  transformed  himself  to  a  raven,  and 


HLTNTINT,    I'OK    OOLn 


221 


SGJziiiL^  tlie  uiooii  ill  his  beak,  flew  away  with  it  to  Naas 
country.  Here  th(3  Indians  l>ei»:<jfctl  of  him  to  lot  them 
see  it,  to  wliicli  he  ultimately  consented,  and,  in  the 
exhuherance  of  their  joy,  they  threw  it  so  hii^h  into  the 
heavens  that  it  broke  into  many  pieces,  forming'  the 
moon,  the  sun  and  all  the  stars.  Both  these  legends 
are  very  strikinu;-,  I  think,  and,  may  be,  some  student  of 
mythology  and  revealed  religions  may  see  in  them  iuter- 
e«ting  corroborations  of  ideas,  expressed  in  other  reli- 
gious systems. 

The  population  of  these  islands  was  not  very  large 
and  was  steadily  decreasing.  I  think  it  was  estimated 
at  about  a  thousand  in  the  year  1883,  but  when  I  first 
vis  ted  them  there  were  certainly  a  good  many  more. 
Still,  the  fact  that  they  were  decreasing  was  made 
quite  manifest  by  the  presence  of  a  good  many  deserted 
villages  in  the  different  parts  of  the  group,  and  there 
were  laru'e    burial    ])laces   with    indications   of  funerals 

O  J. 

enough  to  show  that  the  race  had  been  far  more  numer- 
ous  than  when  I  knew  it  first.  * 

I  have  dwelt  upon  these  people  at  some  length, 
because  they  greatly  attracted  me,  and,  however 
imperfect  my  account,  it  may  still  have  some  interest  to 
my  readers. 


11^ 


i!  II! 
iil  li 


til  'i    ! 
■ill,!:    I 

mil  I 


CHAPTEll   111. 

Fort  Simpson — On  the  River  Skeona — "Pioiioor  H.  B.  C." — A 
Teniptinfjf  Oft'er — Locatin*,''  a  Push  Wlutt  u  (rold  Band  J)i(l 
— Keel  Paint — i^ou  ./o*//'-  Frank's  Curly  Hair  -Cliiof  Sal- 
tow-tow  -White  Men  in  tlio  WildernesH — Days  of  Privation 
A  Poor  Craft-  Head  Factor,  Peter  O^'den  -A  California 
]\Ionto  Bank  in  Victoria. 

Ill  the  early  part  of  September  1859  I  was  at  Fort 
Siin{)Son,  ready  to  explore  the  river  Skeena  and  pene- 
trate a.s  far  as  Fort  Fraser,  at  the  same  time  makinof  a 
survey  of  the  country  witli  a  view  to  finding  a  pass,  as 
mentioned,  for  the  Great  Canadian  and  Pacific  Railroad 
Route.  My  company  consisted  of  two  white  men,  Wil- 
liam Manning,  an  Englishman,  and  Frank  Choteau,  a 
French  Canadian,  besides  two  Indians. 

Fort  Simpson  was  at  that  time  a  post  of  some  impor- 
tance. It  is  situated  on  Chatham  Sound  in  the  extreme 
ft 

northwest  corner  of  British  Columbia,  adjacent  to  what 
were  then  Russian  Possessions.  Owing  to  its  natural  lo- 
cation and  surroundings,  it  enjoyed  a  large  and  lucra- 
tive trade.  It  possessed  an  excellent  harbor,  the  neigh- 
boring waters  abounded  in  fish  and  the  land  in  wild  ani- 
mals, thus  niakino:  it  the  liuntino^  oround  of  a  number  of 
large  and  thrifty  tribes.  It  was  the  mart  for  all  the 
various  northern  Indians  and  was  frequented,  not  only 
by  those  of  the  mainland,  but  by  a  number  coming 
across  from  Queen  Charlotte  Islands,  and  Alaska.  The 
Fort  was  named  after  Sir  George  Simpson,  a  former 
Governor  of  the  Company;  and  an  extensive  trade  had 
been  established  between  it  and  Victoria,  steamers  com- 
ing up  from  the  latter  place   loaded  with  articles  adapt- 

222 


HlNTINd    FOK    COI.I) 


223 


ed  for  tlie  Iiidiiui  trade,  and  rctundiii^  with  such  jioods 
as  luid  hot'ii  ohtaified  in  uxchan^'o. 

On  the  jtli  of  Si'pt(3niber  I  set  out  on  my  expedition 
witii  my  little  party.  At  our  Hrst  camp  we  made  the 
ac(|uaintaii<e  of  the  Indians  of  these  parts,  who  made 
haste  to  tell  us,  that  they  were  very  honest  people,  and 
demonstrated  tins  by  n^ettini;  away  with  my  coat,  while 
I  was  asleep.  We  made  a  trip  up  a  small  stream,  called 
by  the  natives  Scenatoys,  and  here  the  Indians  showed 
us  some  crystalized  quartz,  in  one  piece  of  whicli  I 
detected  ijold.  This  was  the  first  of  its  kind,  I  had 
seen  in  this  locality,  but,  although  I  was  shown  a  gran- 
ite slide,  from  where  the  piece  was  alleged  to  have  come, 
I  could  not  find  anything  like  a  payable  vein.  We  after- 
wards explored  a  small  river,  called  the  Foes,  and  then 
took  to  the  Skeena  again,  making  our  way  up  the  river, 
where  the  current  was  grailually  getting  stronger  and 
stronger,  and  it  took  us  all  our  time  and  strength  to  j)ull 
the  canoe  against  it.  The  country  looked  auriferous, 
but,  when  we  tried  prospecting,  we  could  only  raise  a 
few  specks  to  the  pan.  We  })assed  the  village  called 
Kitchumsala,  and  I  went  ahead  of  the  party  in  a  small 
canoe,  only  accompanied  by  an  Indian.  We  came  past 
the  junction  of  the  river  Chindvootch,  on  the  southwest 
side  of  which  we  found  lead  at  the  Plumbairo  mouiktain, 
and  here  my  companion  pointed  out  to  me  a  tree,  on 
which  had  been  carved  many  years  ago  the  legend: 
"Pioneer  H.  B.  C."  I  was  informed  that  this  had 
been  done  by  Mr.  John  Work,  one  of  the  company's  offi- 
cers, and  the  manner  in  which  the  letters  bulged  from 
the  bark,  testified,  that  many  years  had  elapsed  since  this 
daring  pioneer  had  visited  the  locality. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  village  of  Kittcoonra. 
The  land  became  more  level,  and  the  mountains  receded 


1 


4 


ill 


If 

m 


h! 


'224 


HUNTING    FOK    C.OI.n 


' 


I 


1 

r  ^r 

u'' 

i 

»{  ■ ! 

fl 

' 

|r 

*  ■"  ■ 

■!  ;  ;! 

r 

1 1 

1     ' 

<t^ 

: 

1 

[: 

tVoiii  the  river  l)aiik,  wliilo  fertile  Hats  extended  tor  tour 
or  five  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river.  'I'his  isdceidedly 
line  latinin*^  huid.  and  the  Indians  hcri'  pick  i)erries  and 
diy  tlu'in  for  wintei-  supply.  Wc  were  takinj;-  a  rest  on 
tlu!  rivi'r  l)ank,  when  my  Indian  companions  snddeidy 
oavc  a  cry  of  alarm,  and  lookintjj  up  I  pcicnved,  tlnit  a 
whole  hand  of  natives,  inhabitants  of  the  vilhiL^e,  were 
iunnin<^  down  towards  us,  I'videntlv  with  no  friendly  in- 
tent;  for  they  were  all  armed  and  shouting-  furiously,  and 
behind  them  came  the  women  and  children,  ready  to 
carry  away  the  i)lunder  after  the  fray.  In  a  case  of 
that  kind  the  exhibition  of  utter  inditi'erence  is  the  only 
satejjjuard,  as  the  least  siu^n  of  fear  would  mean  death  by 
the  Indians'  bullets.  So  I  motioned  my  men  to  lie  down 
on  the  ground  and  remain  (juiet,  while  I  tilled  my  pipe 
and  assumed  an  appearance  of  supreme  ease.  My  tae- 
ties  were  rewarded  with  the  desired  result.  The  Indians, 
seeing  no  reason  for  hostility,  (juieted  down,  and  some 
of  the  women  came  up  close  to  me  with  the  native 
inquisitiveness  of  their  sex.  To  one  of  them  I  jji'ave  a 
needle,  but  this  article,  small  as  it  was,  seemed  to  please 
them  all  so  much,  that  everybody  came  up  for  one,  the 
men  laying  down  their  weapons  to  get  a  needle.  But  I 
was  pleasantly  surprised  to  learn  these  people's  ideas  of 
reciprocity,  for  they  at  once  dispatched  some  of  the 
young  men  to  their  village  for  venison,  beaver  and  bear 
meat,  all  cooked  and  ready  for  eating,  and  we  were  all 
invited  to  sit  down  with  them  and  feast.  More  tlian 
this,  when  we  showed  signs  of  departing  they  insisted 
upon  us  sta^-ing  with  them.  They  told  me  tliey  would 
build  us  a  house,  be  friends  witli  us,  give  us  all  the  land 
we  wanted,  and  help  us  cultivate  potatoes;  but  we  had  to 
refuse  their  profuse  hospitality  and  push  on  up  the 
river. 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


225 


Arrived  at  the  forks  of  the  Skeena  (called  by  the 
Indians  Kittaniaks,  afterwards  chaii»^ed  to  Hazeton)  we 
left  the  river  and,  walking  overland,  made  for  the  Indian 
village  of  AguUgath.  The  country  we  traveled  througii 
was  particularly  pleasing,  being  especially  well  adapted 
for  agricultural  purposes.  We  dined  at  the  village, 
havinir  secured  some  fish  from  the  natives  in  trade  for 
tobacco  and  then  crossed  the  river  on  an  Indian  suspen- 
sion bridge,  continuing  our  journey  along  a  well-beaten 
trail.  The  timber  consisted  principally  of  small  hard- 
wood and  some  soft  wood  trees,  far  easier  to  clear  than 
the  tall  pines.  The  land  was  rolling  and  well  watered 
by  little  streams  that  flowed  from  the  distant  hills,  and 
there  were  many  indications  of  coal.  Far  away  to  the 
south  we  saw  the  snow  and  glaciers  on  towering  mount- 
ains, which  are  white-capped  all  the  year  round,  and 
down  by  the  river  bank  the  growth  of  cottonwood  and 
birch  pleasantly  varied  the  scenery,  which  was  indeed 
exceedingly  inviting.  In  this  locality,  finding  the  sur- 
roundings advantageous  I  put  up  the  following: 

"Notice — September  22,  1859. — I  have  this  day  loca- 
ted and  claimed  this  pass,  as  the  route  of  the  Great  Cana- 
dian and  Pacific  Railroad.  William  Downie." 

We  were  now  makingc  for  Naas  Glee  and  bejyan  to  rec- 
ognize,  that  we  were  on  the  down  grade.  In  fact,  we 
had  really  succeeded  in  coming  through  the  only  pass 
from  Agullgath,  which  is  suitable  for  a  road.  As  we 
were  traveling  along  here,  we  saw  a  wild  goat,  and  one  of 
my  Indians  made  chase  up  the  mountain  for  it,  but, 
meeting  with  a  company  of  three  bears,  he  suddenly  re- 
membered that  discretion  is  the  better  part  of  valor  and 
returned  express  speed.  As  we  neared  the  village  of 
Naas  Glee,  we  fired  our  pistols  in  the  air.  The  effect 
might  be   likened   to   what    might     be    produced   by 


220 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


11  III         \ 


I 


in  I 


t"' 


iiH 


f      1! 


,)    i 


pokiiii^  with  a  stick  in  an  aut  liill.  In  a  moment  we 
were  surrounded  by  all  the  braves  in  the  settlement. 
They  came  rushing  towards  us  armed  with  guns  and 
loiiu  bowie  knives,  but  seeing  that  we  manifested  no 
fear  they  quieted  down.  I  do  not  wish  my  readers  to 
understand,  that  I  consider  myself  a  more  courageous 
man  than  many  others,  although  at  the  same  time  I  have 
had  plenty  of  opportunity  of  proving  that  I  possess 
more  personal  courage  than  a  good  many.  I  am  not 
prepared  to  say,  that  this  is  always  an  advantage,  for 
while  at  times  it  helps  to  carry  a  man  through  great 
perils  and  hardships;  the  same  man  would  probably 
have  had  a  more  comfortable  life,  minus  this  courage, 
which  often  leads  him  into  most  trying  circumstances, 
in  dealing  with  the  Indians,  I  had  soon  perceived  that 
the  only  way  of  getting  along  with  them,  was  to  show 
the  utmost  composure  at  tlie  first  meeting,  and,  while 
I  adopted  this  as  a  rule  and  always  succeeded  in  appear- 
ing calm,  I  am  not  prepared  to  say,  that  I  always  felt 
correspondingly  at  ease.  Yet,  I  must  admit,  that  as  I 
now  look  back  upon  my  many  meetings  with  the  red- 
skins, and  consider  how  many  of  my  friends  have  fpred 
among  them  I  feel  thankful  that  my  scalp  is  still  intact. 
On  this  expedition  I  wore  round  my  hat  a  gold  band, 
and  I  had  frequently  reason  to  congratulate  myself  upon 
this  fact,  for  it  seemed  to  inspire  the  Indians  with  a  good 
deal  of  respect,  evidently  impressing  them  with  the  idea 
that  I  was  a  great  chief  On  the  present  occasion  they 
soon  became  very  friendly,  and  their  Tyhee,  or  chief, 
asked  me  to  his  house  His  name  was  Tal-tow-tow  or 
Norra,  they  called  him  by  both  names,  and  I  gave  him 
what  small  articles  I  could  spare.  But  my  greatest 
stroke  in  the  direction  of  making  myself  popular  in  this 
colony    was   made,   when  I  devided   three   yeast   cans. 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


227 


filled  with  red  paint,  among  the  women  and  children. 
Never  was  female  vanity  more  satisfied,  than  when  our 
new  lady  friends  embellished  their  features  with  large 
streaks  of  red  paint,  and  I  doubt  whether  any  belle  of 
fashionable  society  could  think  herself  more  attractive, 
after  using  her  co!?metics,  than  did  these  savages,  after 
daubing  themselves  with  the  paint. 

We  discovered  that  this  villasfe  was  situated  on  the 
Skeena,  and  thus,  having  left  this  river  five  days  ago,  we 
had  now  struck  it  again  higher  up.  We  also  here  obser- 
ved traces  of  French  influence  for  the  first  time,  for  the 
Indians  hailed  us  with  the  words  honjour;  but  later  on 
we  discovered  that  all  through  these  regions  many 
French  words  were  used  by  the  Indians  as  a  result  of 
their  intercourse  with  French  traders. 

We  were  well  entertained  by  the  natives  who  feasted 
us  in  one  of  their  ln)uses,  and  I  was  given  the  seat  of 
honor  with  my  white  companions  next  to  me.  The 
women  seemed  much  amused  at  Frank's  hair,  which  was 
very  curly — a  fact  that  evidently  puzzled  them  a  good 
deal,  as  the  Indians'  hair  is  always  straight.  They 
would  steal  up  from  behind  and  pull  the  hairs  out  of  his 
head.  Then  they  would  hold  it  out  straight  between 
both  hands  and,  letting  go  at  one  end,  appeared  much 
surprised  when  the  hair  curled  up  again.  By  and  by 
Frank's  head  began  to  get  sore,  and  he  objected  to  the 
sport.  "Never  mind,  Frank,"  I  said,  trying  to  soothe 
his  ruffled  temper,    "It  is  only  female  curiosity." 

"Female  curiosity    or  not,"  grumbled  Frank,  "I  don't 
want  them  to  pluck  all  the  hairs  out  of  my  head,  as  if  I 
was  some  bird  being  prepared  for  cooking — oh!     Ther 
let  go,  you :  " 

And  Frank  brushed  off  a  woman's  hand,  which  was 
trying  to  rob  him  of  another  lock. 


_^^- 


\u  m 


\l 


Ml   : 


'Hi  i 


■.:;  ,:■  I 


I!  : ! 


i: 

i 

1 

L 

228 


HUNTING   FOR  GOLD 


Naas  Glee  is  a  center,  where  all  the  upcountry  Indians 
meet  at  certain  seasons.  The  head  factor  of  Fort  St. 
James  sends  a  boat  down  here  at  certain  times,  and  a 
large  trade  in  dried  fish  and  other  articles  is  carried  on. 
I  began  to  fear,  that  I  should  not  be  able  to  reach  the 
Fraser,as  I  was  told  that  it  was  about  ten  days' journey 
away  from  where  we  were,  and  the  Indians  were  gradu- 
ally robbing  me  of  all  I  had  to  depend  upon  for  further 
trade  with  the  natives.  I  realized  that  I  had  to  get  out 
as  soon  as  possible,  and,  after  some  persuasions,  I 
succeeded  in  getting  Tal-tow-tow  to  go  with  me.  He 
provided  a  canoe  and  some  dried  fish,  and  we  started  up 
the  river,  exceedingly  glad  to  leave  our  hosts,  whose 
hospitality  had  been  well  counterbalanced  by  the  per- 
sistency with  which  they  had  wrung  from  us  a  great 
many  things,  both  necessaries  and  trading  articles. 
About  ten  miles  up  the  river  we  passed  the  village 
Whatatt,  and  above  this  we  came  to  Babine  Lake, 
traveling  now  through  exceptionally  fine  country. 

It  was  just  about  daylight  the  next  morning,  and  I 
had  crawled  out  of  my  blanket,  wdien  to  my  surprise  I 
saw^  a  boat  approaching,  filled  with  Europeans.  The 
man  at  the  helm  turned  out  to  be  a  Mr.  Gavin  Hamilton, 
and  his  crew^  were  Canadians.  He  came  from  Fort  St. 
James  and  was  on  his  way  to  Naas  Glee  for  dried  fish, 
furs,  etc.  He  was  very  much  surprised  to  see  us  and 
told  me  that  he  had  never  heard  of  any  other  white  man 
succeeding  in  traveling  over  the  route  w^e  had  come  by. 
He  insisted  upon  taking  my  Indian  chief  back  with  him, 
as  he  said  he  could  do  nothing  at  Naas  Glee  without 
him  and  would  most  likely  be  robbed  of  all  he  had  in 
place  of  making  trade,  and  when  I  remonstrated  with 
him  and  told  him,  that  I  could  not  go  on  without  a 
guide  not  knowing  the  way,  he  smiled  and  said,  that  a 


'*^ 


in 

th 

a 

a 


IT 

w 


iC 


en 


fnmtmmmBa 


I 


<' 


230 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


1  t 


man,  who  had  been  ahle  to  visit  Naas  Glee  as  a  strantrer 
and  come  out  as  well  as  I  had  done,  might  go  anywhere. 
He  had  no  rations  to  spare  us  but  finally  arranged  that 
we  should  take  Tal -tow-tow's  canoe,  and  that  the  chief 
should  return  with  him,  and  he  gave  us  a  letter  for  Mr. 
Peter  Ogden,  in  charge  of  Fort  St.  James,  who  was  the 
same  gentleman  after  whom  the  city  of  Ogden  in  Utah 
has  been  named. 

I  had  sent  both  my  Indians  with  Mr.  Hamilton,  and 
it  proved  a  fortunate  thing  for  us.  We  were  supposed 
to  be  only  five  days'  journey  from  Fort  St.  James,  and 
on  our  first  day's  sail  we  made  Fort  Killman,  which  at 
that  period  was  unoccupied.  It  reared  its  lofty  palisa- 
insc  in  the  silent  wilderness  with  not  a  sound  issuinof 
from  behind  the  closed  doors.  There  was  sometliino; 
uncanny  about  the  lonely  little  fort,  and  we  left  it 
behind  without  regret.  According  to  Mr.  Hamilton  we 
had  now  another  four  days'  journey  before  us,  but  we 
soon  realized,  that  we  could  not  cover  the  distance  in 
that  time.  Babine  Lake  is  about  one  hundred  miles 
long,  and,  whenever  we  could  do  so,  we  used  our  blank- 
ets as  sails.  The  scenery  along  the  shore  was  very 
pleasmg,  and,  under  more  favorable  circumstances,  we 
could  have  enjoyed  the  trip  very  much,  but  rations  were 
getting  low  and  we  had  been  out  five  days,  when  we 
reached  the  head  of  the  lake  and  we  took  the  trail  for 
the  next  watershed.  Lake  Stewart.  So  we  abandoned 
our  canoes  and  made  our  way  through  the  forest.  Here, 
for  the  first  time  on  our  journey,  did  we  see  the  track  of 
a  wagon,  but,  strange  to  say,  it  was  over  ten  years  since 
the  ruts  were  furrowed  in  the  soil.  Previous  to  that 
time  the  Company  had  a  wagon  road  to  Lake  Babine, 
but  it  was  then  abandoned.  We  packed  our  traps  along 
the  trail  and    came  upon  a  camp  at  a  small  lake,  where 


HUNTING   FUR    GOLD 


231 


an  Indian  family  was  camping  and  hunting.  Tliey 
seemod  much  surprised  at  our  appoarace,  and  in  ex- 
change for  some  tobacco  and  paint,  gave  us  a  few  dried 
fish,  and  helped  us  carry  our  pack  to  Stewart  Lake, 
which  was  not  far  distant.  Nevertheless  the  assistance 
was  very  welcome,  for  we  had  had  so  little  to  eat  for  a 
day  or  two,  that  the  eifect  of  privation  began  to  tell 
upon  us. 

Arrived  at  Stewart  Lake  we  looked  in  vain  for  a 
canoe,  which  we  expected  to  find  there.  Things 
were  beginning  to  look  ugly.  Fort  St.  James  was  away 
at  the  other  end  of  the  lake,  but  we  could  not  possibly 
walk  that  distance  in  our  reduced  condition,  and  we  sat 
down  very  much  after  the  fashion  of  McCawber,  "wait- 
ing  for  something  to  turn  up."  Driven  by  hunger  and 
despondency,  for  I  did  not  expect  to  get  any  more  pro- 
visions till  we  reached  Fort  St.  James,  I  attempted  to 
eat  grass  in  order  to  save  our  own  scanty  supply,  but  it 
would  not  go  down,  and  the  experiment  demonstrated 
to  me,  that  Nebuchadnezzar  must  have  had  pretty  hard 
times  of  it,  when  he  took  to  bovine  fare. 

At  last  we  found  a  very  old  canoe.  It  was  split  from 
stem  to  stern  and  apparently  of  no  use  at  all,  but  neces- 
sity is  the  mother  of  invention,  and  we  lashed  a  drift 
log  to  each  side  of  it,  hoping  by  this  contrivance  and  in- 
cessant balino;  to  be  able  to  travel  down  the  lake.  After 
experiencing  considerable  difficulty  in  making  our  frail 
craft  answer  its  purpose,  we  succeeded  in  getting  down 
about  five  miles,  when  we  suddenly  shipped  a  sea,  that 
nearly  swamped  us,  but  just  in  the  nick  of  time  we  per- 
ceived an  Indian  fishing  close  under  the  shore.  We 
hailed  him,  and  he  at  once  came  to  our  rescue  and 
brought  us  safe  to  his  camp,  where  we  were  fed  on  fresh 


:i>' 


1      ! 


'!■ 


2.12 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


trout  and  a  meal,  the  enjoyment  of  which  is  yet  fresh 
in  my  memory. 

Once  more  we  succeeded  in  makint;  friends  of  our 
Indian  hosts.  They  did  not  understand  nmcli  English 
but  could  speak  a  little  French,  and  Frank,  who  was  a 
Canadian  and  could  converse  in  that  language,  piloted 
us  through  this  difficulty  and  arranged  with  the  Indian 
that  he  should  take  us  to  Fort  St.  James,  receivinsr 
as  remuneration  one  blanket.  It  is  strange,  how 
soon  a  man  forgets  his  troubles.  We  had  now  plenty 
to  eat  and  a  chance  soon  to  get  to  Fort  St.  James,  and 
all  our  troubles  seemed  to  be  at  an  end.  We  ran  down 
the  coast  before  a  fair  wind,  going  ashore  when  it 
became  too  rough.  The  scenery  gradually  changed, 
and  towards  the  lower  end  of  the  lake  the  country 
became  more  rocky  and  barren  looking,  while  the  air 
became  colder,  and  we  experienced  a  slight  fall  of  snow. 

On  the  9th  of  October  we  arrived  at  Fort  .St.  James, 
just  eleven  days  after  parting  with  Mr.  Hamilton,  For 
four  consecutive  days  we  had  had  nothing  to  eat,  and  it 
had  several  times  during  the  whole  trip  appeared  to  me 
as  if  our  chances  of  reaching  our  destination  were  very 
slim.  But  now  we  were  in  clover.  Mr.  Oixden  received 
us  very  kindly,  and  we  soon  recovered  from  our  hard- 
ships. 

After  a  two  days'  sojourn  we  left  m  company  with 
Mr.  Oixden.  He  was  (joinyj  to  Fort  Fraser,  but  we  had 
determined  to  go  to  Fort  George  and  from  there  to  Fort 
Alexandria,  and  at  the  former  place  we  parted  company 
W'ith  the  genial  head  factor,  who  had  treated  us  so  kind- 
ly. Fort  Alexandria,  or  as  it  is  generally  called,  Alex- 
ander, is  an  interesting  place  It  is  called  after  the 
famous  explorer  and  traveler.  Sir  Alexander  McKenzie, 
and  I  believe  it  is  the    oldest  fort  of  all,  being  founded 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


233 


in  1793.  It  was,  when  I  visited  it,  a  fort  of  niuch 
importance.  The  surrounding  country  was  open  and 
picturesque  and  afforded  splendid  hunting  ground. 
Hence  the  Indians  congregated  here,  and  the  Company 
did  a  large  amount  of  trading  in  this  neighborhood, 
while  at  the  same  time  the  post  served  as  a  depot  for 
receiving  produce,  gathered  in  other  distant  districts. 

We  now  made  down  the  river  and  soon  found  ourselves 
in  a  mining  region.  At  several  places  we  passed  mining 
camps,  but  I  generally  found  the  men  as  taciturn  as 
they  had  appeared  to  me  when  I  made  my  debut  on  the 
Californian  gold  fields.  One  of  the  few  places,  where 
we  met  with  a  welcome,  was  in  a  camp  belonging  to  a 
Mr.  Kirk  and  his  partner  Mr.  Nichol.  They  were  not 
working  when  we  arrived  there,  because  the  ground  was 
frozen;  but  they  had  been  doing  pretty  well  on  their 
claim,  averaging  from  three  to  four  ounces  a  day.  They 
were  very  pleased  to  see  us,  and  shared  with  us  what 
cheer  they  had,  andin  their  agreeable  company  I  dreamed 
myself  back  again  to  California  in  the  early  days  and 
thought  of  many  pleasant  scenes  under  similar  conditions. 

There  was  now  a  good  deal  of  ice  on  the  river.  It 
came  drifting  in  floes  and  often  menaced  our  safety,  but 
we  pushed  on  and  soon  reached  the  mouth  of  the 
Quesnelle  river.  There  was  quite  an  accumulation  of 
men  here.  New  diiri^insfs  had  been  struck,  and  those  on 
the  ground  had  come  to  winter,  so  as  to  be  ready  at  the 
first  dawn  of  spring 

We  stayed  here  for  several  days  to  gather  all  possible 
information  about  the  place  and  ascertained  that  some 
good  gold  had  been  already  found  here,  while  hopes 
were  bright  in  anticipation  of  coming  revelation,  when 
spring  should  return.  We  also  met  several  Californians 
here,  who  gave  us  a  royal  reception  and  spoke  of  old 


i: 


I  ?:;:':!:■ 


1 


m 

h  n 


ill 


!l 


I   ! 


mi 


i  i 


ft 

I 

ri 

I 

I 


234 


HUNTINO    FOR    CVOLD 


days.  At  Big  Creek  we  al)aiKlonod  our  canoe  and  took 
the  trail  for  Haskells.  Here  I  met  my  old  ])artner  from 
California,  Alexander  McDoiiald,  who  was  minini^  iu 
this  neitjhborhood,  and  I  went  to  work  with  him  for 
awhile,  but  the  weather  was  gcttini^  very  cold  and  the 
g^round  hard,  and  I  concluded  to  make  my  way  hack  to 
Victoria,  where  I  arrived  at  the  close  of  November. 

I  had  been  away  for  nearly  three  months  and  certainly 
seen  a  great  deal  of  the  country.  His  Excellency, 
Governor  Douglas  received  my  report  very  favorably 
and  ordered  my  expenses  paid,  which  was  done  accord- 
ingly. 


Hi 


1 


111: 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Surveying  the  Inlets — Looking  for  a  Wagon  Road  to  the  Fraser 
— Jarvis  Inlet — An  Awful  Ravine — Desolation  Sound — All 
by  Myself — The  Bears  Came  Rushing  Down — The  Kle-ua- 
Kleue  River — Bella  Coola — Dean  Canal — A  Land  Boom — 
False  Reports — ]Mr,  Tovalloit  Prevaricates — Spearing  Salmon 
Indians  from  Fort  Fraser — After  Gold  on  the  Nasse. 

Having  given  an  account  of  my  trip  in  company  with 
Mr.  McKay,  and  my  subsequent  journey  through  the 
country  to  Fort  James,  I  now  come  to  my  exph)ration  of 
Jarvis  Inlet,  which  is  situated  about  thirtv  miles  west  of 
Howe  Sound.  It  will  be  remembered  that  Governor 
Douglas,  who  by  this  time  was  known  as  Sir  James 
Douglas,  had  an  idea  that  it  would  be  possible  to  find  a 
shorter  and  easier  ronte  to  the  Upper  Fraser  than  the 
one  which  we  had  pointed  out  to  him,  via  Howe  Sound 
and  the  Silooet  Lake,  and  with  a  view  to  ascertaining 
whether  such  a  possibility  did  exist,  I  traveled  along  the 
coast  making  a  survey  of  the  various  inlets. 

I  found  Jarvis  Inlet  piercing  the  coast  line  to  a  depth 
of  about  sixty  miles,  stretching  inland  in  a  northeasterly 
direction.  There  was  every  appearance  of  our  finding  a 
pass  through  the  mountains  here.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  inlet  we  met  several  Bridge  River  Indians,  and  with 
them  for  our  guides,  penetrated  to  the  head,  and  aftei' 
two  days'  hard  journeying  we  found  ourselves  in  a  can- 
yon entirely  closed  in  by  steep  mountains.  Never  in  my 
life  have  I  beheld  such  a  scene  as  presented  itself  to  our 
wondering  gaze  in  this  solitude.  We  were  completely 
shut  in  by  this  wild  nature.  On  either  hand,  lofty 
mountains   reared  their   precipitous  sides  far  above  us 

235 


1 


23G 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


l^M  1  i 


i! 


i;li  n 


I  i 


pointing  toward  the  leaden  overcast  sky,  and  looking  like 
threatening  giants  guarding  the  entrance  to  some  land 
of  mystery.  Not  a  vestige  of  vegetation;  not  a  brush 
on  the  bare,  solenm-looking  rocks  as  they  cast  their 
gloomy  shadow  over  the  ravine  below,  making  us  feel 
like  prisoners  behind  barred  and  bolted  gates.  Ahead 
ot  us  lay  a  field  of  unsurmountable  glaciers,  forming  a 
barrier  to  any  further  progress,  and  giving  to  the  situa- 
tion additional  awe  and  errandeur.  In  the  loneliness  of 
nature,  where  the  great  architect  has  deprived  her  of  the 
charms  which  in  other  places  adorn  her,  I  have  always 
found  something  wonderfully  impressive,  far  exceeding 
in  force,  the  enthusiasm  called  forth  by  the  smiling  and 
pleasing  scenery.  It  has  always  appeared  to  me  in  this 
solemn  situation  as  if  I  stood  face  to  face  with  the  angry 
Jehovah,  who  stretched  forth  his  hand  to  remind  human 
beings  of  their  utter  insiijnificance. 

Such  was  the  impression  I  received  in  this  instance, 
as  I  found  myself  absolutely  enclosed  in  the  ravine  which 
had  just  one  opening  for  ingress  and  egress  alike.  When 
I  asked  the  Indians  how  they  proposed  for  us  to  proceed 
any  further,  they  said  that  we  should  have  to  ascend  the 
glaciers  in  the  best  way  we  could,  and  pull  one  another 
up  by  ropes.  "And  the  wagons — .'* "  I  asked.  "  Pull 
them  up  after  you!  "  came  the  reply.  It  was  very  evi- 
dent that  this  settled  all  prospects  of  making  a  wagon 
road  by  this  route,  when  the  only  way  was  to  climb  gla- 
ciers and  pull  the  vehicles  up  afterwards,  and  I  therefore 
gave  up  all  ideas  of  satisfying  gubernatorial  expectations 
on  this  point.  We  camped  here  for  the  night,  and  spent 
a  wretched  tmie  waiting;  for  dawn  to  break.  The  rain 
came  down  in  torrents,  falling  over  the  steep  sides  of  the 
mountains  in  cascades  and  filling  the  ravine,  so  to  speak. 
Our  traps — even  our  Drovisions — were  carried  away,  and 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


237 


we  had  to  stand  up  most  of  tin-  night  holding  on  to  our 
blankets  and  utensils,  for  fear  of  seeing  them  carried 
away  by  the  waters  and  the  violent  gusts  of  wind  that 
came  down  upon  us — the  sweeping  breath  of  angry 
elements. 

In  March,  1859,  I  made  my  first  inspection  of  Deso- 
lation Sound,  situated  about  sixty  miles  west  of  Jarvis' 
Inlet.  This  time  I  was  the  only  white  man  in  the  com- 
pany and  was  accompanied  by  a  party  of  Indians.  We 
went  in  a  canoe  up  through  the  channel  between  the 
mainland  and  Redonda  Island,  and  rounding  Bret- 
tell  Point  and  Snout  Point,  made  our  way  into 
Toba  Inlet.  We  penetrated  to  the  head  of  this 
water,  and  then  proceeded  to  ascend  the  river 
which  has  its  mouth  here.  The  land  on  either  side 
of  this  stream  we  found  to  be  low,  sandy  and  over- 
flowed, but  some  distance  from  the  mouth  the  moutains 
began  to  rise  to  considerable  altitudes.  It  was  not  pos- 
sible to  proceed  in  the  canoe  more  than  four  or  five 
miles  from  the  Inlet,  and  we  reconnoitered  the  land  on 
foot.  I  found  the  mountains  on  the  western  shore  to  be 
higher  than  those  opposite.  On  the  eastern  side  there 
was  an  Indian  trail  crossing  to  Jarvis'  Inlet,  but  the 
ridge  on  the  western  side  could  only  be  traversed  by 
goats  and  bears,  of  which  there  seemed  to  be  a  great 
many.  The  bears  came  tearing  down  the  mountain- 
side, to  welcome  us,  but  we  did  not  stop  to  shake  hands, 
preferring  to  wave  them  our  adieu  from  the  canoe.  I 
thought  it  possible  to  penetrate  from  here  to  Bridge 
River,  but  the  Indians  told  me  it  would  take  at  least  a 
month  to  reach  a  group  of  small  lakes  where  that  stream 
takes  its  rise. 

It  was  very  evident  to  me  that  my  purpose  of  mak- 
ing a  wagon   road   by   this   route   could    not  be  accom- 


2:}H 


Hl'NTINC.    FOR    (lOI.I) 


I 


jilislicd,  iuul  r  tlioi'i't'or*'  iH'cpaitMl  to  return.  I  did  a  lit- 
tle prosjH'ctiiii;'  first,  and  caiiK'  upon  sluti',  (jnartz  and 
indications  of  ('o|)[)er,  but  nothinij;-  ol'  any  yi-cat  Kii.nnli- 
cancc,  and  as  a  nienicnto  of  my  visit,  I  carvel  my  iiamu 
U}M»u  a  tree  and  departed  tVom  tiicse  ([uaitcrs. 

The  next  inlet  upon  tiiis  coast,  is  Hutu  lidct  Of 
tliis  place,  and  my  experience  of  it,  I  will  .si)eak  later, 
and  lueanwhilo  pass  on  to  the  next  inlet,  known  us 
Loborouujli  Inlet.  It  is  situated  about  twenty  miles 
west  of  Bute,  and  is  surrounded  by  towerinj^"  mount- 
ains, while  glaciers  aboundetl  in  these  regions.  During 
the  suiDHier  mouths,  the  Indians  from  the  surrouniling 
tribes,  comc!  down  here  and  tisli,  but  none  of  theui  stay 
to  winter  in  this  locality.  The  place  is  wild  and  inac- 
cessible, and  when  the  winter  gales  sweep  over  it,  and 
the  snow  lies  on  the  mountains,  it  offers  but  a  very  unin- 
vitiuL''  abode  for  human  beinu^s.  There  are  no  settled 
tribes  of  Indians  in  this  region,  and  when  the  summer 
season  is  at  end,  the  whole  country  assumes  an  appear- 
ance of  utter  desolation  and  loneliness.  I  could  not  find 
any  chances  in  this  locality  of  building  a  wagon  road, 
and  once  more  turned  my  steps  westward. 

The  reader  who  is  unfamiliar  with  the  map  of  British 
Columbia,  by  examining  it  for  a  moment,  will  easily  fol- 
low ]'  '^  explorations  of  the  various  inlets,  as  they  were 
un'^  jn,  one  after   the  other;  and  will   also  readily 

t'ti  the  anxiety  and  vigor  with  which   these  explo- 

.  lons  were  being  pushed,  for  the  sole  purpose  t)f  afford- 
inir  li'reater  traveling;  facilities  for  the  miners,  who,  com- 
ing  from  Victoria,  made  the  upper  Fraser  their  destina- 
tion. At  that  time,  when  the  country  had  been  but  lit- 
tle explored,  and  the  exact  course  of  the  Fraser  was  but 
imperfectly  known,  it  was  naturally  to  be  supposed  that 
there  would  be   some  way   of  making  a   cross-country 


'^ 


I..  -^ 


o 

o 


o 

> 

> 

>— I 

y, 

c 

> 
y, 


m 


! 


w 


It 


^1-' 


I 


i 


I 


240 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


road  to  the  gold  fields,  by  taking  advantage  of  the  riv- 
ers and  lakes,  which  in  so  many  places  afforded  excellent 
means  of  traveling.  Moreover,  the  natives  had  shown 
the  invaders  how  to  utilize  the  sheets  of  water  which 
intersected  their  home  in  so  many  places.  The  idea  of 
portages  originated  with  them,  and  the  canoes  were 
easily  carried  along  the  trail  leading  from  one  lake  to 
the  other. 

I  must  admit  that,  in  common  with  many  others,  I 
had  lontr  e"*tertained  the  idea  of  such  a  travelinof  route. 
I  had  furinermore  as  an  old  miner  taken  much  pleasure 
in  looking  for  the  possibility  of  finding  one,  and  in  order 
to  realize  this,  had  freely  spent  my  money  so  far  in  vain 
endeavors  to  strike  a  trail  that  would  answer  the  pur- 
pose. Having  disposed  of  Laborough  and  found  nothing 
there  to  work  upon,  I  next  turned  my  attention  to 
Knisfht's  Inlet. 

This  is  one  of  the  deepest  and  most  formidable  inlets 
on  the  coast.  It  runs  east  from  Gilford  Island  for 
many  miles  and  then  turns  north  running  in  that  direc- 
tion, with  a  few  curves,  to  its  head,  where  the  Kle-na- 
Klene  Kiver  falls  into  it.  At  this  point  the  land  is  open 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  we  saw  plenty  of  upland 
Indians,  who  came  down  here  to  trade  for  grease.  I 
made  two  trips  to  the  head  of  this  inlet,  but  could  not 
discover  anything  which  would  warrant  a  wagon  road 
toward  the  Eraser.  The  natives,  with  whom  I  here 
came  in  contact,  gave  me  some  information  about  the 
intirior.  They  said  that  it  took  one  month  and  a  half 
to  travel  to  their  country,  which  must  therefore  have 
been  situated  quite  a  distance  away,  but  at  the  same 
time  they  had  never  heard  of  the  Fraser  river  nor  of  the 
gold  land.  This  made  me  think  that  these  Indians 
lived  considerably  to  the  west  of  Fraser  River,  for  my 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


241 


experience  was  that  Indians  living  as  far  from  the  Fraser 
as  Lillooet,  knew  all  about  the  river,  and  the  gold  to  be 
found  there.  More  than  this;  an  Indian  on  my  trip 
through  the  Babine  Lake  district  had  told  me  how  on 
the  Fraser  he  had  met  the  white  men,  and  received  a 
pair  of  pants  in  exchange  for  a  salmon.  The  natives  I 
met  at  KniMit's  Inlet  ixave  me  nmch  information  about 
the  interior,  and  I  had  once  more  to  abandon  the  idea 
of  finding  a  starting  point  on  the  coast  for  the  desired 
route. 

My  next  expedition  went  to  Bella  Coola.  This  river, 
which  rushes  down  from  the  Cascade  Mountains,  falls 
into  the  sea  through  Burke  Channel,  inside  which  the 
South  Bentinck  and  North  Bentinck  Arm  spread  into 
the  surrounding  lowland.  The  North  Arm  may  be 
called  the  inoutli  of  the  river,  while  the  South  Bentinck 
stops  more  abruptly.  The  entrance  to  the  interior 
therefore  i^oes  throuo;h  the  North  Bentinck,  but  it  was 
soon  found  inpracticable  to  establish  a  wagon  road  by 
this  route.  The  country  further  up  the  river  becomes 
mountainous,  and  unfit  for  any  such  purpose  as  ours,  and 
I  had  to  give  it  up.  But  I  was  not  the  only  one  who  had 
suffered  defeat  in  this  respect,  as  regards  Bella  Coola. 
Two  gentlmen,  Messrs.  Harrison  and  Goolidge,  spent 
several  months  in  attempting  to  penetrate  from  the 
North  Branch  to  the  Fraser,  but  failed  in  their  attempts, 
although  they  were  particularly  well  equipped  for  the 
undertaking. 

Separated  from  Burke  Channel  by  a  thin  strip  of  land 
is  Dean  Canal,  being  the  mouth  of  Dean,  or  Salmon 
River.  My  next  expedition  went  up  this  inlet,  and 
although  I  followed  the  river  for  quite  a  distance,  I 
failed  to  find  a  suitable  road.  Toward  the  fall  of  every 
year  the  natives  come  down  from    New    Caledonia   to 


•  ! 


I   i 


hi: 


?;      5 


!l 


!■ ;! 


242 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


trade  here  and  return  again  on  snow-shoes,  but  just  as 
surely  as  the  flowers  awake  in  the  spring,  these  men 
come  back  with  the  returning  season  to  trade.  I  had 
expected  to  see  some  of  the  Chilcotin  Indians  here,  but 
was  disappointed.  At  the  time  when  I  paid  my  visit  to 
Dean  Canal,  there  was  quite  an  excitement  in  the  real 
estate  offices  in  Victoria,  owing  to  the  fact  that  a  boom 
had  been  started  in  a  quiet  way  in  regard  to  the  land  on 
Dean  Creek.  It  was  predicted  that  land,  bought  in 
tlii"  district;,  would  soon  increase  many  fold  in  value,  and 
tha^  a  better  townsite  could  not  be  found.  Consequently 
about  one  thousand  acres  were  soon  taken  up  by  the 
knowing  ones  of  Victoria,  and   expectations   ran    high. 

I  should  have  thought  they  might  just  as  w^U  have 
speculated  in  making  a  townsite  on  the  sides  of  Mount 
Baker  or  Mount  Hamilton,  as  at  the  head  of  any  of  the 
inlets  that  I  frequented  in  my  search  for  a  wagon  road, 
and  I  would  not  personally  have  given  ten  dollars  for  the 
whole  area. 

In  connection  with  this  I  am  put  in  mind  of  some  of 
the  tricks  practiced  for  the  purpose  of  inducing  people 
to  buy  land  in  this  locality.  A  Mr.  Tovalloit,  who  was 
interested  in  the  scheme,  had  the  audacity  to  spread  the 
report  that  he  came  on  horseback  from  Fort  Alexandria, 
on  the  Fraser  River,  to  Dean  Canal  in  seven  days.  I 
was  told  exactly  where  he  claimed  to  have  reached  the 
water,  and  examined  the  place  minutely,  with  the  result 
that  I  doubted  very  much  the  truth  of  the  story.  Mr. 
Tovalloit  also  claimed  to  have  come  by  Chilcotin  Lake, 
but  I  learned  afterwards  from  friends  of  mine  who  had 
been  of  the  party,  that  this  was  not  so.  They  left  for 
Alexandria  to  go  to  the  lake,  but  on  the  third  day  out 
they  returned  again,  and  up  to  that  time  Mr.  Tovalloit 
had  never  seen  it.     This  will  show    how   easily   people 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


243 


r. 


ad 


oit 


may  be  deceived  in  regard  to  location  of  country,  tlie 
geography  of  which  they  know  nothing  about.  Had  it 
been  possible  to  establish  a  seven-days  communication 
between  the  coast  and  Fort  Alexandria  at  this  place, 
land  would  certainly  have  been  of  great  value;  but  the 
possibility  was  entirely  problematic.  Mr.  Tovalloit  was  a 
prevaricator  of  the  truth,  to  use  a  polite  term;  and  there 
was  absolutely  no  reason  to  think  that  a  wagon  road 
would  ever  be  built  between  the  two  points. 

I  next  directed  my  attention  towards  Kitlobe  River. 
In  reference  to  this,  too,  gross  misrepresentations  had 
been  published,  and  among  other  things  it  had  been  des- 
cribed as  navigable.  I  soon  discovered  that  it  was  not. 
The  inlet  stretches  far  inland,  until  the  Kitlobe  River 
falls  into  it,  the  latter  springing  somewhere  in  the  south- 
eastern corner  of  the  Chilicotin  plateau.  But  this  river 
was  far  from  being  navigable  as  reported.  On  the 
contrary,  I  found  it  one  of  the  most  difficult  rivers  on 
the  coast  to  ascend.  The  country  was  wild,  in  some 
places  almost  impassable,  and  while  it  was  shown  on  the 
maps  as  nearly  reaching  to  the  Chilcotin,  such  was  by 
no  means  the  case.  I  had  the  satisfaction,  through  the 
press  of  Victoria,  of  drawing  the  attention  of  the  public 
to  these  misstatements,  and  thus  corrected  a  serious 
error  in  the  minds  of  speculators  in  the  Fraser  river 
route,  which  I  did  not  for  one  moment  believe  could  be 
established  here. 

During^  the  fishing;  season  the  Indians  on  the  Kitlobe 
River  sit  perched  upon  the  rocks  and  spear  the  fish. 
With  marvelous  aim  they  throw  the  weapon  from  con- 
siderable liights,  and  pierce  the  beautiful  salmon  far 
below.  The  Indians  from  New  Caledonia  cross  this  riv- 
er in  making  their  annual  trips  to  Dean  Canal 

At  the  head  of  Kildalah  Inlet  is  the  river  of  the  same 


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244 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


name.  It  rushes  forth  between  steep  mountain  verges, 
and  affords  but  a  poor  and  dangerous  navigation.  I 
took  much  interest  in  conversingr  with  the  natives  here. 
Some  of  them  told  me  that  they  had  come  all  the  way 
from  Fort  Fraser,  and  described  the  country  on  the  oth- 
er side  of  the  range,  as  level  and  easy  to  travel.  The 
distance  between  this  point  and  Fort  Fraser  is  quite 
considerable,  and  they  must  have  come  by  the  way  of 
the  Fraser  Lake,  the  French  Lake,  and  across  the  Chil- 
cotin  plateau. 

The  Kitimax  River  comes  from  the  north,  running 
almost  at  a  ri^ht  anLfle  to  the  Kildalah.  It  is  a  fine 
largo  river,  which  runs  through  an  open  valley  that 
stretched  its  verdant  pastures  towards  the  Skeena,  and 
as  we  traveled  up  the  stream,  we  were  much  impressed 
by  the  surrounding  country.  The  Indians  here  told  us 
that  it  was  only  a  matter  of  four  days  to  reach  the 
Skeena,  and  we  made  that  river  in  the  time  stated. 

Of  my  exploration  on  the  Skeena  I  have  already 
spoken.  Myself  and  two  companions  were  in  reality  the 
first  white  men  who  croj-sod  from  the  coast  to  the  Fraser 
River,  but  Mr.  Alfred  Waddington,  v."ho  was  jealous  of 
my  successful  explorations  of  that  part  of  British  Colum- 
bia, took  pains  on  several  occasions  to  ignore  the  fact 
that  I  was  the  one  who  led  the  first  expedition,  and 
wrote  about  the  route  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  it 
appear  as  if  indeed  he  was  the  first  to  penetrate  the 
previously  unknown  country.  However,  I  was  quite 
willinsjc  that  he  should  induloje  in  a  little  imao-ination  on 
this  point;  I  only  wished  that  he  should  as  well  have 
some  of  the  days  of  hunger  and  cold, with  which  we  paid 
for  the  honor  of  being  the  pioneer  explorers  of  this  route. 

I  went  up  the  river  Nasse  about  one  hundred  miles. 
My  expedition  on  this.streani  was  undertaken  principally 


HUNTINO    FOR   GOLD 


245 


for  tliG  purpose  of  prospecting,  as  I  luul  been  told  that 
there  was  plenty  of  gold  here.  I  spent  quite  a  time  on 
the  river,  making  careful  examinations  of  the  various 
localities  but  not  with  any  satisfactory  results.  There 
was  undoubtedly  traces  of  gold  in  many  places,  and  in 
some  the  metal  might  be  found  in  small  quantities;  but 
I  could  not  find  any  place  wliere  it  would  pay  over  two 
dollars  a  day,  and  therefore  it  was  not  worth  while 
working.  Erom  my  experience,  and  examination  of  the 
Pacific  Coast,  I  judge  that  from  Washington  Territory 
to  Alaska,  all  along  the  coast  of  British  Columbia,  there 
are  no  placer  di 'Agings,  which  are  worth  working,  whereas 
it  appears  to  me  that  some  of  the  baser  metals  may  be 
work.  1  to  advantage. 

From  what  has  already  been  written  it  nmst  be  })rctty 
evident  that  there  was  a  stron^r  desire  to  establish  an 
outlet  from  the  interior  countrv,  somewhere  on  the 
coast,  and  it  will  be  also  seen  that  I  was  not  the  only 
one  who  had  attempted  to  locate  such  a  station.  Indeed, 
at  the  time  I  refer  to,  there  were  any  amount  of  explorers 
in  the  field,  but  a  good  many  of  them  did  not  amount  to 
much.  They  would  receive  so  nmch  money  for  going 
out  to  look  for  a  certain  pass,  and  that  would  be  the 
last  heard  of  them. 

I  have  hitherto  spoken  of  such  undertakings  as  aimed 
at  locating  a  pass  for  a  wagon  road,  but  the  idea  had  also 
become  dominant  that  it  would  be  possible  to  find,  some- 
where in  the  mountains,  a  pass  that  would  allow  of  a  rail- 
road beino;  brouijht  down  to  the  coast;  and  Bute  Inlet 
was  the  favorite  locality,  where  it  was  thought  possible 
to  realize  this  project.  Bute  Inlet  goes  far  into  the 
land,  and  at  its  extreme  head  the  Homalko  River  falls 
into  its  waters,  running  almost  due  south,  while  the 
Southgate  River  joins  the  inlet  on  the  eastern  shore,  a 


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240 


HUNTINO    FOR    OdLD 


little  further  down.  The  mountains  beliind  are  wild  nnd 
precipitous,  the  river  is  ditticult  to  navigate,  in  some 
places  rendering  portage  necessary,  and  at  others  being 
HUed  with  drift  wood,  thus  constantly  menacing  the 
frail  crafts  that  come  up  here;  the  canoes  of  the  natives 
being  the  oidy  possible  conveyance  upon  this  swiftl\' 
rushing  stream. 

In  order  to  ascertain  whether  a  projected  railroad 
might  be  brought  to  Bute  Inlet,  to  be  there  connected 
with  Vancouver  Island,  a  meeting  was  held  in  the  early 
part  of '61  at  the  old  government  building  in  the  city  of 
Victoria,  where  now  stands  the  postoffice.  A  number 
of  prominent  business  men  and  professional  men  were 
present,  and  I  also  recollect  seeing  Lady  Franklin  there, 
the  widow^  of  the  renow^ned  Arctic  exj)lorer,  Sir  John 
Franklin,  whose  tragic  fate  had  attracted  so  much 
attention  some  years  before.  Among  others,  who  that 
night  discussed  the  possibilities  of  Bute  Inlet,  were  Dr. 
Helmeken,  a  Mr.  Burnaby,  and  Mr.  Alfred  Waddington. 
I  have  already  had  occasion  to  mention  the  last  named 
gentleman.  He  was  nmch  interested  in  the  further 
development  of  the  countr}',  and  to  him  the  establish- 
ment of  a  railroad  terminus  at  Bute  Inlet  was  a  matter 
of  vast  importance,  wherefore,  he  also  took  a  prominent 
part  in  the  proceedings  of  the  evening,  during  which  it 
was  proposed  to  send  an  exploring  party  to  the  head  of 
the  inlet,  to  report  upon  the  conditions  of  the  country. 

In  the  general  discussion  that  took  place,  I  strenu- 
ously opposed  the  idea  of  paying  anybody  in  advance. 
I  suggested  that  parties  willing  to  explore  the  country, 
might  do  so  at  their  own  cost,  and  if  they  returned  with 
bona  fide  ronorts,  they  should  be  remunerated  for  their 
trouble,  whether  successful  or  not.  I  reasoned  that  pay- 
ing in  advance  would  give  the  men  employed  a  chance  to 


1 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


247 


go  half  way  only  and  come  back  without  having 
attempted  to  find  the  pass;  and,  indeed,  I  knew  a  party 
just  ready  to  start  on  some  such  proposition,  wait- 
ing only  to  receive  cheque  in  advance. 

As  soon  as  the  meeting  was  over,  I  met  my  partners, 
and  urged  them  to  join  me  in  exploring  Bute  Inlet.  I 
was  somewhat  disgusted  when  they  at  once  refused, 
saying  that  they  had  arranged  to  go  higher  up  the  coast, 
but  after  a  little  persuasion  I  made  them  agree  to  take 
me  up  there  with  them  at  all  events,  and  we  set  out  on 
the  voyage, 

I  laid  in  a  stock  of  supplies,  enough  to  carry  me 
through  for  several  months,  also  brought  with  me  an 
extra  quantity  of  tobacco  for  the  natives.  Tobacco 
among  the  Indians,  in  many  cases,  acts  as  the  golden 
key  to  the  secret  you  wish  to  possess;  and  it  is  when 
this  luxury  gives  out,  that  the  explorer  need  have  seri- 
ous apprehensions  as  to  the  issue  of  his  next  negotiation 
with  the  red  sons  of  the  soil. 


1* 


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! 


IT 


m 


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fii; 


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ill 


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ii; 


CHAPTER  \. 

My  Partners — ViKiting  Friends — The  Village  of  Tsawatti — Vil- 
lainous Indians — Anxious  Moments — Friends  in  Need — Bute 
Inlet — On  the  Homathco — Auxiliary  Hi  vers — Wonderful 
Hcener}' — Glaciers  Ahead — A  Sick  Indian — Great  Hardsliips— 
The  Tequahan  and  the  Meinria — Poor  Luck — What  a  News- 
paper Wrote. 

I  have  spoken  of  my  partners,  and  I  may  now  intro- 
duce them  to  my  readers.  They  v/ere  Aleck  McDonald 
and  Harry  Harlan,  both  of  them  experienced  miners  and 
good  fellows.  I  had  mined  with  Aleck  on  the  Yuba, 
years  before;  had  camped  with  him  on  the  Upper 
Fraser,  when  I  succeeded  in  reaching  those  parts,  and 
we  had  become  fast  friends,  havino;  shared  the  danucers 
and  trials  of  a  rough  and  adventurous  life.  Sometime 
prior  to  the  meeting  just  referred  to,  the  three  of  us  had 
purchased  a  small  schooner,  and  gone  up  the  coast  for 
the  purpose  of  prospecting,  and  of  this  trip  I  will  give 
a  brief  account. 

Runninof  alono*  the  west  coast  of  Vancouver  Island  we 
called  in  at  Nanaimo,  where  we  spent  a  couple  of  days 
with  old  friends,  among  whom  let  me  remember,  Captain 
Stewart,  Doctor  Benson,  Mr.  Home,  Mr.  Dunsmuir 
and  others. 

We  next  made  a  call  at  Fort  Rupert,  where  Mr. 
Winter  and  Captain  Mitchell  received  us  with  that  lav- 
ish hospitality,  for  which  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
officers  had  become  famous  among  their  friends,  and, 
leavincj  them  with  some  reluctance,  we  now  cut  across 
Queen  Charlotte  Sound  and  threading  our  way  through 

248 


n 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


249 


the  labyrinth  of  island.s,  witli  wliicli  this  water  is  stud- 
ded, we  sailed  through  **One-Tree  Passage," and  ^steerino; 
for  Knight  Inlet,  made  oui'  way  toward  the  liead  of 
this  water,  where  is  situated  the  Indian  village  of 
Tsawatti.  We  had  been  up  this  way  before,  and  it  was 
now  our  intention  to  prospect  the  mountains  behind  the 
village,  having  previously  found  along  the  inlet,  lead, 
copper  and  other  minerals,  one  of  which  we  took  to  be 
silver. 

Our  little  vessel  was  richly  laden  with  trade  for  the 
Indians,  and  we  had  blankets  and  tobacco  in  abundance. 
It  was  arrano^ed  that  Aleck  should  jro  ashore  at  Tsawatti. 
taking  with  him  a  certain  amount  of  trade  and,  while 
we  made  an  examination  of  the  coast-line,  he  should 
take  the  initiative  in  the  hills. 

We  ran  ashore  as  near  the.  village  as  possible,  and 
beoan  dischargiuL*"  the  i^oods  that  were  to  be  left  with 
Aleck,  who  proposed  to  take  quarters  in  an  Indian  cabin 
a  short  distance  up  the  hill,  whither  the  boxes  and 
parcels  were  carried.  Meanwhile  a  number  of  strange 
Indians  had  put  in  their  appearance.  They  filled  the 
cabin  which  was  to  serve  as  a  store-house  and  beo-an  to 
swarm  around  our  vessel  in  canoes,  looking  anything  but 
friendly. 

If  the  reader  has  ever  seen  the  heavy  villain  in  a  five- 
act  drama  of  the  blood-and-thunder  school,  overdomg,  as 
he  thought,  the  important  role  entrusted  to  his  careful 
acting,  he  will  have  seen,  as  a  rule,  a  fair  representation 
of  these  Indians  who  were  heavy  villains  without  the 
least  effort  on  their  part.  Their  brows  were  knitted 
and  their  eyelids  lowered,  thus  producing  a  hideous 
scowl. 

The  orthodox  blanket  was  thrown  over  the  left 
shoulder  in  the  manner  of  a  Spanish  cape,  and  to  the 


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HUNTIN(V    FOR    (iOl.i) 


practiced  observer  the  general  posture  of  the  body,  as 
revealed  by  tlie  folds  of  the  l)lanket,  demonstrated  that 
their  hands  clutched  sonic  murderous  wea[)on,  whether 
a  knife  or  a  pistol,  held  reatly  to  be  used  at  a  moment's 
notice. 

I  had  been  so  busy  arran^iii*;'  our  car^o  in  the  hold, 
that  I  had  scarcely  noticed  the  natives  Hocking  around 
our  vessel.  Not  so  with  Aleck.  The  space  in  the 
cabin  had  gradually  become  smaller  and  smaller,  the  air 
more  stiHintj,  the  chatteringof  the  natives  grown  louder, 
while  the  situation  assumed  a  cliaracter,  not  at  all 
pleasing  to  my  companion,  who  leftthe  boxes,  which  had 
been  stowed  away  in  the  cabin,  and  came  down  to  con- 
sult with  me. 

"I  don't  like  the  looks  of  these  fellows,  Major,"  he 
said,  "those  that  belonix  here,  I  think  are  all  rio'ht,  but 
the  strangers  look  ugly  enough." 

I  made  up  my  mind  right  then,  that  Aleck  should 
not  be  left  alone  in  this  place.  "Get  the  goods  down 
again  !"  I  said,  "we  will  ship  them  and  proceed." 

My  friend  left  me,  but  shortly  after  returned,  stating 
that  they  would  not  permit  him  to  take  anything  away. 

I  immediately  went  ashore;  seizing  the  nearest  fellow 
by  the  arm  I  pointed  to  a  bide  of  blankets:  "Put  them 
on  your  shoulder  and  carry  them  down  there  I"  I  said, 
at  the  same  time  gesticulating  to  make  my  meaning 
clear. 

I  don't  believe  the  man  understood  a  word  of  Ensxlish, 
but  he  obeyed  me  at  once.  There  is  a  universal  langua^'e, 
which  everybody  can  under.stand,  but  only  few  can 
speak.  It  has  no  words  of  its  own,  but  it  depends  upon 
accentuation  more  than  anything  else,  as  I  learned  in 
in  the  course  of  my  life's  schooling.  It  was  but  a  matter 
of  a  few  minutes   when  I  had  everybody  carrying  for 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


251 


me,  and  the  o-oods  were  heiti<'  returned  wholesale,  to  the 
evident  disj^ust  of  the  wily  Indians,  who  had  hoped  for 
plunder,  while  I  now  merely  paid  my  carriers  a  few 
pieces  of  tobacco  in  return  for  their  services. 

But  the  trouble  was  not  over  yet.  By  this  time  the 
Indians  were  swarming  upon  the  deck  of  our  little  vessel, 
and  upon  my  return  to  it,  they  had  blocked  the  ganjjj- 
way  so  that  I  could  not  get  aboard  for  some  time;  when 
at  last  I  reached  the  deck,  I  called  my  men  below,  and  we 
at  once  made  our  arsenal  ready  for  use.  We  had  plenty 
of  guns,  pistols,  balls  and  powder,  and  had  just  broken 
into  a  keg  of  the  latter.  I  told  the  boys,  and  they 
agreed  with  me,  that  if  we  found  we  were  getting  the 
worst  ot  it,  I  should  throw  a  match  into  the  powder-keg, 
thus  showing  our  charitable  disj)osition  by  taking  our 
enemies  aloft  with  us,  rather  than  let  them  cut  us  to 
pieces. 

Meanwhile  the  Redskins  continued  to  hold  possession 
of  the  deck.  They  were  e\idently  in  a  quandary,  not 
knowmg  how  to  begin  the  fray,  for  they  had  perceived 
that  we  had  headed  them  off,  and  ever  so  much  better 
armed  than  they  were.  Just  as  we  thought  that  time 
was  nearly  up  for  the  first  round  to  begin,  a  large  canoe 
shot  across  the  waters  toward  our  vessel,  but  to  our  sur- 
prise tlie  warriors  in  the  canoe  came  to  render  us  assist- 
ance. They  had  heard  of  the  plight  we  were  in  and 
now  a  few  words  from  them  quickly  persuaded  the  enemy 
to  abandon  oar  vessel,  but  not  till  he  had,  with  the 
polish  of  a  thorough  villain,  assured  us  that  everything 
was  all  right,  that  we  were  all  friends  and  that  we  had 
quite  misunderstood  their  move.  I  assured  them  in 
return  that  if  that  powder  keg  had  been  heard  from 
there  would  have  been  no  occasion  for  them  to  misunder- 
stand our  move  in  the  matter,  and  from  that  day  hence- 


;•  r 

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HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


I  I 


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forth  I  novor  took  a  Kiii«jrlit  Inlet  Indian  at  his  word. 

On  tliat  same  expediticni  we  went  up  the  Skeena  and 
arrived  near  Fort  Simpson  just  as  the  Indians  were 
about  to  have  a  hiij^  fiijflit.  They  recognized  us,  however, 
anil  kindly  sent  word  to  us,  asking  us  to  go  below  as 
they  were  going  to  shoot.  Indian  warfare  differs  some- 
what from  our  mode  of  killing  in  battle.  The  Indians 
go  on  shooting  till  somebody  is  hurt,  and  then  by  a 
signal  they  stop  to  see  what  can  be  done  further.  After 
a  little  while  the  battle  is  taken  up  again.  This  some- 
what retards  bloodshed  and  limits  casualties,  unlike  the 
more  civilized  mode  of  warfare,  which  takes  particular 
pains  to  kill  as  many  as  possible.  If  the  medicine  man 
falls  in  battle,  and  he  did  not  succeed  in  pulling  his  last 
patient  through,  his  scalp  is  eagerly  sought  by  the 
survivors.  If  the  scalps  of  Medicos  in  more  civilized 
connnunities  were  a  little  less  safe  than  they  are,  probably 
there  would  be  a  good  deal  less  quackery  in  that,  other- 
wise most  estimable,  profession. 

On  this  trip  we  made  the  discovery  of  what  we  took 
to  be  rich  lead  ore.  We  had  a  quantity  shipped  for 
London,  and  a  man  went  to  England  to  look  after  it,  but 
neither  man  nor  ore  was  ever  heard  of  since  and,  while 
some  charged  fraud,  I  think  it  more  likely  that  the  ore 
was  shoveled  on  board  some  other  vessel  as  ballast. 

I  now  ]:)roceed  to  speak  of  my  expedition  to  Bute 
Inlet.  It  was  one  of  the  most  important  undertakings, 
with  which  I  was  connected  in  British  Columbia,  and, 
althouuh  I  did  not  succeed  at  the  time  in  crossiiii'  the 
range  personally,  our  experiences  there  had  much  to  do 
with  the  later  success  of  Aleck  McDonald,  who  was 
indeed  the  first  white  man  to  perform  the  feat  of  traversing 
the  mountains  at  the  head  of  Bute  Inlet. 

We  arrived  here  on  the  third  day  of  July  1861,  having 


HUNTING   FOK   GOLD 


253 


) 

Is 


traveled  about  225  miles  since  leavinj;  Victoria.  On 
either  side  the  shore  rises  boldly.  The  inlet  is  Tiavigable 
for  whips  of  any  size,  and  there  is  particularly  <;ood 
aii('hora_i(e  at  several  places,  where  the  fresh  water 
streams  join  the  inlet,  which  averages  a  width  of  one 
mile  and  a  half  and  is  clear  of  reefs  and  sunken  rocks. 
At  the  head  of  the  iidet  on  the  west  side,  close  to  the 
shore,  the  bottom  is  sandy  in  twenty  fathoms  of  water, 
and  splendid  shelter  is  afforded  against  the  southwester 
blowing  up  the  iidet.  I  have  already  mentioned  the 
principal  rivers,  falling  into  the  inlet,  of  which  the 
Homathco  is  the  most  important.  The  back  country 
Indians  come  down  to  the  coast  by  this  river  for  the 
purpose  of  obtaining  sahnon,  and  I  determined  to  ascend 
it.  We  experienced  considerable  trouble  in  getting 
sufficient  Indians  to  take  us  up  the  river.  The  natives 
here  are  not  very  easy  to  get  along  with,  and  I  had  to 
use  all  my  tact  and  powers  of  persuasion  in  order  to 
enlist  eight  men,  who  finally  agreed  to  aecom[)any 
McDonald  and  myself  on  our  expedition. 

On  the  7th  of  July  we  started  up  the  river.  We  had 
sufficient  supplies  with  us  to  take  us  over  the  mountains, 
and  we  had  three  canoes,  I  heading  the  procession 
with  two  natives.  The  course  of  the  river  winds  through 
sandy  fiats,  thickly  timbered.  The  timber  however  is 
very  light,  and  the  soil  formed  by  the  continual  wash 
from  the  mountains.  On  the  western  shore  we  saw  the 
snow  mantling  the  distant  hills  and  on  the  first  day  of 
our  journey  we  passed  two  glaciers.  We  found  that  the 
tide  came  up  as  far  as  ten  miles,  thus  rendering  it  pos- 
sible for  small  steamers  to  go  up  that  distance  at  high 
water.  The  formation  of  the  rock  varied  somewhat, 
being  principally  granite  on  our  western  shore,  while  on 
the  opposite  bank  we  found  slate,  intermixed  with  strag- 


^1^ 


'111 


I' 


I 


254 


HUNTING    FOR    COLD 


\hl 


,'  I 


|i    Ml 


gling  veins  of  (juartz.  At  one  place  on  this  slioro  we 
observed  a  lar«(e  mountain,  the  appearance  of  which 
indicated  minerals,  and  I  followed  a  reddish  vein,  think- 
ing that  it  might  contain  something,  but  was  disappointed. 

On  the  second  day  the  river  current  increased  in 
velocitj',  and  we  foresaw  that  it  would  be  a  difficult  task 
to  ascend  the  stream.  At  one  place  my  Indians  failed 
to  keep  the  head  of  the  canoe  to  the  current;  she 
turned  first  broadside  and  then  bottom  up.  In  one 
moment  we  were  all  in  the  water.  I  saw  what  was 
coming,  and  warned  my  companions,  but  they  did  not 
heed  in  time.  I  caught  my  pistol  belt  and  clambered  on 
to  a  drift  loof  which  took  me  down  the  stream  towards 
the  other  canoes,  but  for  some  time  I  looked  in  vain  for 
the  Indians.  It  did  not  take  me  louii;  to  meet  McDon- 
aid  and  his  crew,  who  picked  me  up,  and  by  this  time 
my  late  companions  had  reached  the  shore,  where  they 
stood  shiverino;  after  their  cold  bath,  while  we  went  in 
pursuit  of  the  escaping  canoe,  and  soon  overtook  it.  It 
had  sustained  considerable  damage,  while  everythini>'  in 
it  had,  of  cours'fe,  dropped  out,  and  it  was  quite  n  loss, 
under  the  circumstances. 

The  worst  of  it  all  was  tliat  the  Indians  had  become 
so  scared  at  the  accident,  that  they  positively  refused  to 
l)roceed  further,  and  after  nmch  talking  and  arguing,  we 
ultimately  persuaded  them  to  let  us  have  a  canoe  in 
in  exchanixe  for  blankets  and  shirts,  as  we  were  deter- 
mined  to  push  on  towards  the  head  of  the  river,  Indians 
or  no  Indians.  We  now  sent  down  to  the  vessel  for 
more  supplies  in  place  of  those  we  had  lost,  and,  hav- 
ing received  the  goods,  we  made  another  start  with  only 
two  Indians  for  my  companions,  one  of  whom  was  a 
chief. 

Some  way  up  the  river  we  came  to  an  auxiliary,  join- 


12 
> 

> 


I      ; 

m 


Hi 
MhUI 


lis 


1:1 

r 

I' ' 


IM! 


'h 


256 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


!j 


I  ! 


! 


in<»-  the  Homathco  from  the  east.  This  stream  was 
called  by  the  Indians  who  live  there,  the  Hickhanum, 
the  name  of  their  own  tribe.  It  iiowed  swiftly,  with 
stontr  current,  but  an  Indian  chief  assured  us  that  if  we 
would  only  push  up  the  stream,  in  the  course  of  one  day 
we  should  reach  some  very  fine  land,  throu|n|"h  a  narrow 
pass  further  up.  We  took  the  man  at  liis  word,  and  set 
out  to  find  the  place. 

The  journey  was  a  dangerous  one,  and  we  made  slow 
progress  through  woodland,  and  Hats  covered  with  rocky 
bowlders,  until  we  heard  above  us  the  deafning  sound  of 
rushing  waters.  Presently  we  came  to  a  deep  chasm. 
From  between  the  narrow  walls  a  muddy  stream  rushed 
forth,  stirring  tlie  waters  of  the  already  turbulent  stream, 
and  filling  the  air  with  a  thundering  noise.  I  conject- 
ured, at  once,  that  the  water  came  from  a  glacier,  and 
we  ascended  the  rocks  forming  the  chasm,  when,  sure 
enoii'jh,  we  beheld  the  o-lacierlyino;  between  two  mount- 
ains  which  rose  abruptly  on  either  side. 

The  glacier  was  distant  about  one  mile,  and  we 
reached  it  by  traversing  a  bowlder  flat.  This  was  the 
first  glacier  I  had  ever  seen  coming  down  to  level 
ground.  It  was,  apparently,  over  one  mile  wide,  and 
extended  back  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  in  an  east- 
erly direction. 

I  was  much  impressed  with  the  surrounding  nature  of 
this  locality.  From  behind,  the  woodlands  wafted  their 
fragrant  breezes  up  the  chasm,  filling  the  air  with  an 
odor  of  life;  and  a  number  of  small  swallows  playfully 
chased  one  another  in  the  golden  rays  of  a  hot  July  sun. 
And  there  in  front  of  us  the  grim  picture  of  winter,  as 
we  descended  the  hucje  block  of  ice  with  all  the  varied 
hues  of  transparent  blue,  green  and  gold  where  the  sun- 
beams were  making  inroads  through  the  crevices,  trying 


HUNTING   FOR  GOLD 


257 


.0 

rel 
U 


Ing 


in  vain  to  soften  the  ponderous  mass.  And  these  very- 
crevices  leadinof  into  caverns  of  eternal  frost  and  dark- 
ness,  traversed  by  ice-cold  sti'eanis,  but  never  lighted  or 
warmed  bv  the  beneficent  sun.  As  I  stood  tliere,  look- 
int»*  backward  and  then  a^^ain  forward,  it  seemed  to  me  as 
if  I  stood  somewhere  between  life  and  death. 

In  this  wilderness  I  naturally  wanted  to  know  what 
the  trail  was  sup])osed  to  be,  and  my  Indian  guide 
looked  somewhat  blank,  as  he  told  me  that  the  season 
was  a  bad  one  for  traveling  this  way,  and  that  the  right 
time  would  be  in  the  fall,  when  the  crevices  had  frozen 
up  again.  I  could  have  suggested  that,  myself,  but 
having  got  so  far,  I  thought  we  would  try  to  skirt  the 
glacier,  along  the  mountain  side,  and  thus  find  out 
where  the  gorge  would  lead  us  to.  But  the  undertak- 
ing was  a  very  risky  one.  We  had  to  leap  from  bowl- 
der to  bowlder  at  the  imminent  risk  of  our  lives,  and 
when,  after  a  while,  we  climbed  the  mountain,  we  could 
see  nothing  but  snow-fields  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
and  the  horizon  itself  seemed  shut  in  by  ice  and  snow. 
We  concluded  that  we  had  gone  as  far  as  human  beings 
could  go  in  this  direction,  and,  seeing  no  possibility  of 
finding  a  pass  here,  suitable  for  our  purposes,  we 
retraced  our  steps,  and  having  reached  the  canoe, 
returned  to  the  mainland. 

We  had  not  proceeded  very  far,  when  we  came  upon 
another  river,  falling  into  the  Homathco,  and  for  the 
second  time  we  left  the  latter,  traveling  up  an  auxiliary, 
coming  from  the  east.  We  had  hard  work,  journeying 
up  this  stream,  which  ran  with  great  force.  We  had  to 
make  a  portage  at  one  place,  while  at  others  we  were 
obliged  to  tow  the  canoe  up  the  stream,  making  fast  the 
line  round  a  bush  every  now  and  again,  while  we  cut 
our  way  along  the  bank.     It  was  one  of  the  most  trying 


k 


I  i 


m 


II' 


m 


m 

m 


:m 


258 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


journeys  I  ever  undertook,  wliicli  is  saying  a  good  deal, 
and  our  Indian  chief  began  to  cry,  said  lie  was  sick  and 
wanted  to  go  home.  There  are  many  who  believe  that 
the  colored  races  surpass  the  Caucasians  in  endurance, 
but  this  is  entirely  a  misanrehension.  For  endurance, 
tenacity,  determination  of  purpose  and  moral  courage 
the  Caucasian  cannot  be  equaled  by  any  colored  race 
I  have  ever  met.  On  this  occasion  we  suffered  great 
hardships.  We  were  most  of  the  time  in  the  cold  water, 
warding  off  drift  wood  and  pulling  or  pushing  our  canoes 
ahead,  and  we  succeeded  in  retaining  our  Indian,  with- 
out whom  we  could  not  have  made  sufficient  progress,  so 
we  let  him  cry  and  complain  but  kept  him  at  work.  He 
was  no  doubt  much  relieved,  when  we  discovered  that 
we  had  been  traveling  up  another  outlet  for  a  glacier 
and  once  more  returned  to  the  Homathco,  However, 
before  abandoning  this  route,  McDonald  and  I  followed 
the  stream  on  foot  for  some  distance  and  came  to  another 
small  river  joining  it  from  the  west.  Here  we  learned 
that  the  Bella  Coola  Indians  come  down  for  salmon  in 
the  fall.  They  have  a  trail  by  which  they  come  through 
this  rocky  pass  at  the  head  of  the  river,  but  our  exami- 
nation of  this  locality  did  not  satisfy  us  that  it  could  be 
used  for  anvthino;  but  an  Indian  trail. 

Havinu;  returned  to  the  main  river,  we  followed  it 
further  up,  examining  a  few  smaller  streams  that  ran 
into  it  at  different  places.  The  country  was  very  wild 
with  deep  canyons  and  steep  mountains.  Here  and 
there  larjije  ijlaciers,  and  rushinor  rivulets  with  plentv  of 
drift  wood  on  the  stream  and  lars^e  threatenino;  bowlders 
on  their  banks.  But  in  ail  this  we  could  not  find  anv 
place  suitable  for  the  desired  })ass,  and  after  having 
spent  sixteen  days  on  the  Homathco  we  returned  to  the 
schooner  at  the  head  of  the  Inlet.     I  was  not   at   all 


.'ti 

nil 


HUNTING   FOP    GOLD 


259 


it 
ran 
,'ild 
iiul 
of 
lers 

ring 
Itbe 
all 


satisfied  with  iny  expedition.  I  thought  that  under 
mure  favorable  circumstances  it  might  be  possible  to 
penetrate  further  up,  and  I  felt  that  I  should  like  to 
make  anotiier  attempt. 

We  next  ascended  the  river  Tequahan,  running  into 
Bute  Inlet  from  the  north.  Our  experience  here  was 
very  similar  to  that  on  the  Homathco  River,  if  possible 
a  little  worse,  and  we  soon  concluded  that  here,  at  all 
events,  we  should  not  find  the  pass,  of  which  we  were 
in  search.  At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  Indians 
here  cross  the  mountains,  hunting  the  goat  over  the 
frozen  snow,  but  this  fiict  alone  proved  to  us  the  absence 
of  the  desired  conditions  for  our  purpose,  and  we  returned 
once  more  to  the  Inlet  to  try  the  third  and  last  river, 
falling  into  it.  This  is  known  as  the  Memria  or  South- 
irate  river. 

We  were  destined  to  experience  more  hardships  and 
additional  failures  on  this  expedition.  The  natives  told 
us  that  the  Lockwalla  Indians  came  down  here  at  times 
and  that  there  was  a  trail  across  to  I-iillooet.  We 
attempted  to  follow  the  latter  but  were  forced  to  admit 
that  it  would  not  serve  for  a  road  of  any  kind,  and 
havino;  once  more  battled  with  the  wilds  of  nature  and 
suffered  a  good  deai,  owing  to  the  roughness  of  the 
country,  we  again  returned  to  the  Inlet  and  set  sail  for 
civilized  parts,  having  spent  one  month  and  a  half  in 
exploring  the  adjacent  country. 

As  we  had  to  bear  the  burden  of  expense,  it  came 
quite  heavy  upon  us  at  the  time,  but  we  satisfied  our- 
selves that  we  had,  at  all  events,  added  to  the  general 
knowledge  of  the  locality,  and  gathered  information 
hitherto  unknown.  "The  Daily  Press"  of  Victoria, 
under  date  of  20th  August,  1861,  published  the  follow- 
ing editorial  comments  relative  to  our  exploration. 


Hill 


\l 


II  il 


W   f 

!  nil 

\      :' 

n.' 

ill          1 

iif'*f?t  ■ 

n\  ^ : 

^ia  ^ 

^1 !  i^ 

1-' 


200 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


"The  problem  wliicli  b;is  caused  so  niueli  ajj^itation 
anioiiir  inia<jfiiiutive  siJeculators  in  Victoria,  is  at  last 
solved,  and  the  numerous  gentlemen  who  have  pre-empt- 
ed land  in  the  region  of  the  inlet,  (Bute)  that  they 
might  cut  it  up  into  town  lots  and  supply  the  over- 
whelming: rush  of  business  men  and  others  that  were 
naturally  expected  to  beseige  the  place,  have  expended 
their  eight-shilling  fee  for  registration,  to  little  purpose. 

''The  Bute  Inlet  route  is  a  miserable  failure.  Major 
Downie  has  tested  every  conceivable  opening  to  the 
interior,  with  a  persistency  that  few  but  the  Major 
would  have  exhibited,  and  has  arrived  at  the  conclusion 
that  a  road  to  the  Fraser  from  Bute  Inlet  is,  for  any 
advantageous  purpose,  totally  impracticable. 

"We  characterised  sometime  aijfo  the  jjflowini*-  des- 
criptions,  which  were  circulated  by  interested  or  unthink- 
ing persons  about  the  Bute  Inlet  route,  as  simply 
imaginative  emanations,  without  any  claims  to  substance 
or  reality  and  the  result  has  proved  the  corroctness  of 
our  remarks. 

We  are  glad  the  impracticability  of  the  route  has 
been  demonstrated  by  a  man  whose  knowledge  of  the 
practical  science  of  exploration,  few  in  the  community 
will  feel  disposed  to  doubt. 

•'It  will  effectually  set  at  rest  this  wavering,  unsettled 
disposition  about  the  route  to  the  mines,  a  feeling  that 
could  only  end  in  injury  to  those  means  of  transit,  at 
present  under  construction.  We  have  no  inclination 
whatever  to  discourage  explorations  of  the  coast  for 
routes  to  the  interior  of  British  Columbia,  but  we  have 
argued,  that  to  attempt  to  draw  the  Governor's  attention 
fnmi  the  Lillooet  road  at  the  present  time,  when  every 
farthing  that  can  possibly  be  spared  from  the  British 
Columbia   Treasury  should  be  devoted  to  that  object, 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


2G1 


it 

1 


until  we  have  one  good,  passable  route  to  the  interior, 
would  be  as  injurious  as  it  would  bo  puerile.  We  are 
not  exceedino-ly  favorable  to  the  British  Columbia  gov- 
ernment; but  we  must  admit  that  it  has  exerted  the 
power  placed  in  its  hands  so  I'ar  as  roads  are  concerned, 
in  a  manner  that  few  ean  cavil  at. 

"We  do  not,  therefore;  wish  to  see  the  attention  oi  the 
Governor  drawn  away  to  impracticable  objects  and  dep- 
utations requesting  the  assistance  of  a  gunboat,  to  humor 
the  whims  and  'castle-buildinu'  of  a  few  erratic  and  fan- 
ciful  speculators. 

"We  may  be  told  that  Bentinck  Arm  is  still  unex- 
plored; that  the  rumors  which  were  some  time  ago 
afloat  with  regard  to  its  practicability  as  a  coast  route, 
are  yet  uncontradicted.  But  we  think  there  has  been 
sufficient  evidence  adduced  to  put  a  stop,  for  this  year, 
at  least,  to  any  further  attempt  to  show  that  the  pres- 
ent route  to  the  mines  is  a  useless  expenditure  of  money. 

''li'  Major  Downie's  trip  will  have  the  effect,  as  it 
shoukl  have,  of  ck)ubling  the  energy  at  present  expended 
on  the  Fraser  River  route,  it  will  be  of  infinite  service 
to  both  c(>lonies.  At  all  events,  the  people  of  this  and 
the  neiohborino-  colony,  are  under  lastinu'  obliixations  to 
Messrs.  Downie  and  McDonald  for  the  energy  and  dis- 
interestedness which  they  have  displayed  in  their  explo- 
rations, and  we  hope  that  something  more  substantial 
than  a  public  meeting  will  l)e  awarded  to  the  adventur- 
ous ii'entlemen. 

"It  is  to  be  presumed,  now  that  the  spirit  of  explor- 
ing enterprise  is  in  the  ascendancy,  that  our  colony  will 
not  be  passed  and  neglected,  as  it  has  hitherto  been. 

'•We  have  not  the  slightest  doubt  there  are  objects  on 
this  island  awaiting  the  efforts  of  ex])loration,  of  infinite- 
ly  greater    importance  to   the  colony,   than    any    coast 


II! 


lit 


2(;2 


HL'NTINC.    von    COLD 


route  to  the  interior  of  British  Coluinhia.  We  hope, 
therefore,  before  any  further  voyage  of  discovery  is 
made  that  Vancouver  island,  which  can  never  exhibit 
the  unsurniountable  obstacles  that  Bute  presented, 
will  obtain  some  sliare  of  that  attention  which  has  re- 
cently been  concentrated  on  the  rugged  mountains 
and  impetuous  rivers  of    the  neighboring  colony." 


'n 


t  li 


if 


Ml 


-'Mm 


1     ' 

•j, 

<i  1 

> 

■J,  ' 
t  1 

.  1 

J  i 

^ 

i 

s^    '  ■ '« 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Unscrupulous  Speculators — The  Pre-emption  Law — The  People 
of  Westminster — Two  Explorers — False  Reports — A  Rowdy 
Audience — Cariboo  Mining — Trying  to  Pump  Gold — The 
Money  Ran  Out — Waddington's  Enterprise — A  Camp  at 
Bute  Inlet — Treacherous  Indians — A  Night  of  Horrors — 
The  Avenger — The  Killing  of  a  Dear  Friend. 

The  reader  will  propably  excuse  my  indulging  in  a  lit- 
tle self-praise,  as  it  may  appear,  by  publishing  the  above 
editorial;  but  I  have  not  done  it  with  an  idea  of  personal 
agrandizement.  I  am  rather  actuated  by  a  desire  to 
demonstrate  the  sentiment  prevailing  at  the  time;  or  shall 
I  say,  one  of  the  sentiments,  for  I  shall  presently  show 
that  opinions  were  somewhat  divided. 

The  fight  lay  between  the  immigrants,  who  gradually 
became  the  hona  ^e  settlers,  and  the  speculators,  who 
resorted  to  trickery  and  imperfect  land  laws,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  enriching  themselves.  The  pre-emption  law  ena- 
bled men  to  take  up  land,  purely  as  a  matter  of  specu- 
lation; and  many  shady  transactions  in  real  estate  were 
brought  about  by  this  fact.  It  was  to  some  extent  the 
motive  power  which  resulted  in  a  good  deal  of  explora- 
tion up  and  down  the  coast,  and  in  that  respect  it  was 
commendable  enough;  but  it  also  caused  reports  to  be 
spread  relative  to  these  explorations,  which  were,  in 
many  cases,  so  far  removed  fjom  the  truth  that  no  one 
would  recognizedthe  localities  from  some  of  the  descrip- 
tions. 

But  of  all  places,  none   had   attracted  so  much  atten- 

263 


gl 


«  '     I'' 


2(54 


HUNTING    KOR   ClOLD 


liarbor  facilities,  tlio  fine  scenery,  tlie  location  and  tlie 
fact  tiiat  three  rivers  ran  into  it, — all  contrihiited  to- 
^var(ls  a  ij^eneral  desire  to  see  it  made  a  railroad  terminus. 
The  [)resent  railroad  skirts  aloni;-  Kamploops  Lake  and 
follows  the  bend  of  the  river  Fraser  below  the  junction 
of  Bonaparte  River,  but  had  not  the  line  been  contin- 
ued due  west  by  Seton  ^  ^ake,  through  the  Lillooet  dis- 
trict, it  would  have  p'  I  the  Cascade  mountains  near 
Bute  Iidet,  and  come  .,/wn  to  the  waters  of  that  splen- 
did harbor.  Then  thousands  of  dollars  would  have 
been  realized  in  that  locality  by  a  few  speculators,  who 
now  either  kept  honest  settlers  out  of  the  field,  or  sold 
them  land  under  false  pretenses,  at  unwarranted    prices. 

The  one  predominant  idea  was,  as  has  been  several 
times  alluded  to,  to  cut  across  the  mountains  from  the 
river  to  the  coast  in  place  of  followini;'  the  windings  of 
the  P'rascr.  On  the  other  hand,  this  river  afforded  a 
natural  hisxhwav  into  the  interior.  It  was  a  matter  of 
course  that  the  country  around  its  (uitlet  looked  forward 
to  the  advantaii:es  which  mitiht  accrue  from  such  a 
fact,  and  hence  a  good  deal  of  rivalry  sprang  up  between 
the  New  Westminster  people  and  the  Bute  Inlet  spec- 
ulators. 

Every  effort  had  been  made  to  destroy  the  possibility 
of  Westminster  taking  the  lead.  Even  charts  and 
maps  had  been  published  so  absolutely  wrong  that  one 
hesitates  to  speak  of  it  for  fear  of  being  doubted;  but  nev- 
ertheless it  is  a  fact  that  on  such  charts  rivers  were 
made  to  suit  the  convenience  of  the  project;  mountain 
ranges  were  placed  where  the  alleged  surveyor  saw  fit, 
and  they  were  accompanied  by  reports,  colored  so  as  to 
throw  the  desired  effect  upon  the  scene,  independently 
of  the  real  truth. 

Such,  indeed,  was  the  state  of  affairs,  when  the  meet- 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


2(15 


ini:^  vvas  called  wlilcli  T  inciitloned  in  my  provious  chap- 
ter. Had  I  wished  to  ofet  into  the  pay  of  tho  specula- 
tors, I  could  havi'  made  enough  money  on  ]5ute  Inlet 
to  am])ly  repay  me  for  my  outlay  and  hardships  cn- 
dui'e(l,  hut  all  1  wished  to  do  was  to  maive  a.  fair  and 
unhiased  report  of  what  I  saw  and  learned. 

Not  so  with  thosi-  whose  onlv  aim  was  to  enrich 
themselves.  MclJ  uiald  and  I  risked  our  lives  daily  in 
the  wilderness  of  the  interior  ahout  the  now  famous  in- 
let. A  couple  of  men  came  U[)  to  mak(!  a  survey  of  the 
coast,  the  same  as  we  had  done.  They  came  in  a  small 
vessel,  and  when  they  learned  that  we  had  j^one  up  one 
of  the  three  rivers,  they  i)Ut  their  craft  ahout  and  sailed 
for  Victoria,  where  they  at  once  reported  the  maj^iiiH- 
cent  discovery  of  an  easy  pass  at  the  head  of  the  inlet, 
and  a  safe  road  across  to  Fort  Alexandria.  This  o-ar- 
bled  statement  was  clad  in  all  the  fanciful  lan^ua^'e  of 
the  novelist,  and  no  etlbrts  were  spared  to  make  the 
country  appear  advantaL»-eous,  while  the  paper  that  pah- 
lished  it,  went  into  elaborate  details  reui'ardiniif  the  pro- 
jected railroad  with  its  terminus  at  Bute  Inlet  and  all 
the  rest,  fi^ivino-  land  in  the  vicinity  a  wonderful  rise  in 
the   market. 

Of  all  this,  however,  I  was  not  aware.  I  first  learned 
of  it  when  sometime  after  I  arrived  in  Victoria  and 
determined  to  make  my  experience  known  in  proper 
style.  80  I  hired  a  hall,  calling  a  meeting  and  arranged 
my  papers  in  such  a  manner  as  to  give  my  audience  an 
intelligent  report  of  my  explorations  in  the  interest  of 
the  common  weal.  I  had  a  fair-sized  audience,  and  as  I 
appeared  upon  the  rostrum,  flattered  myself  that  I  was 
going  to  make  quite  an  impression,  which  indeed  I  did; 
but  it  w'.r  the  wrong  way.  No  sooner  had  my  hearers 
'  understooo  from   my  remarks  that    I    could  not  recom- 


m 


w 

|si| 

m 


I' 


w 


TT 


2()(; 


HUNTINd    FOK    GOLD 


I 


•:m'M 


ml 


m  i 


l! 


I 


I 


J' 


111(311(1  Huto  Inh^t,  wlu'ii  it  seems  that  one  and  all  took  it 
tor  (jranted  that  1  was  in  some  kind  of  a  eolliision  with 
tlie  Westminster  people  to  S(juash  the  biu;  land  sehemes 
of  l^ute  Inlet.  Yells  went  up  in  ditt'erent  jiarts  of  the 
uudieiu'e,  such  as  "Put  him  out!"  "What's  he  talkinj^' 
about?"  "Bully  for  you!"  And  then  various  articles 
were  thrown  across  the  hall,  hreakinjjj  sundry  lamps 
in  their  route  towards  myself,  who  had  certainly 
become  the  central  point  of  interest. 

1  was  surprised  beyond  description.  I  could  barely 
realize  that  in  return  for  telliiiir  people  a  truth  which 
had  cost  me  many  weary  marches  at  the  peril  of  my 
life  to  ascertain,  I  should  be  treated  as  a  charletan, 
while  a  couple  of  impostert-'  walked  ofl*  with  the  glory 
of  havin^;  accomplished  what  they  never  attempted, 
probably  well  paid,  while  I  got  nothing.  Strangely 
enough,  to-day,  after  thirty  years,  there  are  still  people 
who  allow  themselves  to  be  gulled  into  speculating  in 
Bute  Inlet  land,  not  content  with  the  experience  reaped 
by  different  parties  during  all  these  years,  all  pointing 
to  the  fact  that  nature  will  resist  any  engineering  in 
those  regions,  excepting  at  a  cost  which  would  be  con- 
sidered absolutely  unreasonable. 

In  the  spring  of  1862  I  was  mining  at  the  mouth  of 
Mink  Gulch  in  Cariboo.  It  was  evident  that  I  had 
more  luck,  when  looking  for  gold  than  wht^n  trying  to 
find  mountain  passes,  for  I  struck  it  rich  in  the  gravel 
and  took  out  lots  of  the  precious  metal.  Indeed,  during 
that  period  the  miners  in  this  locality  did  well  and  filled 
their  sacks  fast,  and  when  I  remember  such  places  as 
Conklin  Gulch  and  Williams  Creek,  I  am  thinking  of 
some  of  the  richest  placers  that  ever  were. 

But  here  again  the  old  demon  whispered  the  words 
into  the  miner's  ear,  which  sent   so  many  to  destruction 


II 


HUNTING    FOK    COLD 


2G7 


into  tlio  miner's  car,  vvliicli  sent  so  many  to  destruction 
— tlie  word  Exeelslor  I  The  j»old  seekers  did  the  same 
tliini,^  in  British  Columhia,  asthey  liad  done  in  CaHCornia 
ten  years  before,  always  ea<;er  for  better  chanees  they 
let  «^  ot'a  <^ood  claim  to  pursue  a  phantom — I  with  tlie 
rest  an  a  matter  of  course.  And  thus  I  came  to  look 
for  «:;old  in  the  Cariboo  Swamps,  where  rumor  had  it 
there  was  lots  of  the  yellow  stuH'.  But  alas  for  "-old 
huntin*^  in  swamps  I  We  pumped  mud  day  and  niy^ht 
to  find  some  kind  of  a  trace,  but  it  kej)t  out  of  our  way. 
Under  the  title  of  the  Long  Point  Company  we  dug 
ditches  and  })umped  enough  brown  mud  out  to  fill  an 
ocean.  To  make  a  long  story  short,  we  pumped  there 
till  my  finances  were  pumped  completely  out,  for  I  had 
to  foot  the  bills.  At  last  I  gave  U}).  I  told  the  boys  to 
help  themselves  to  a  sack  of  flour,  or  whatever  they 
re(|uired,  and  to  look  for  better  chances  somewhere  else; 
and  while  the  digL'ers  down  the  creek  said  that  we  had 
struck  it  rich  and  were  making  "two  fish  to  the  pan,"  I 
made  my  way  down  the  Fraser  River  on  foot — a  sadder 
but  a  wiser  man. 

L  have  mentioned  Mr  Waddington's  aspirations  in  the 
direction  of  exploring,  and  that  he  was  vastly  interested 
in  Bute  Inlet  and  the  adjacent  country.  In  course  of 
time  he  planned  a  townsite  there  and  began  to  make 
roads  as  best  he  could.  It  proved  a  dangerous  work 
ft)r  the  men;  not  only  because  of  the  wild  nature  in  this 
vicinity,  but  also  owing  to  the  indisposition  on  the  part 
of  some  of  the  Indians,  who  objected  to  any  road  being 
made  through  their  country. 

Such  an  objection  was  not  altogether  uncalled  for. 
The  Indians  were  not  slow  to  perceive  that  at  the  same 
time  as  the  approach  of  the  white  man  brought  them 
advantages,  there  were  also  other  sides  to  the  question, 


\4 


I  [M 


Ml 


i 


:;. 


-   Hi 


2GS 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


T 


■    '      ■  ■' 


jilljii 


-!«',! 


Ill 


l\  IP  ! 


:(.     .| 


not  the  least  of  tlicso  Ix'iii^  tlio  disi-ascs,  .spread  ainonof 
tlu'    native  tribes  by  the  invaders.     Tlius,  in  tlie  year 
1S()2,  siuall-pox  was  carried  by  tlie  wliites  to  Bella  Coola, 
whence  it  spread  as  far  as   IJenshee  and  Chisicat  lakes, 
and  in  an  incredibly  short  time  no  less  than  five  Imndred 
Indians  died  at  the  last  place.     Ag'ain,  the  manner  in 
which  unscrupulous  adventurers  had  repeatedly  broken 
faith  with  the    natives,  had    done    much    harm    to    the 
white    man    and    reflected    even   U[)on   those   who  cam*' 
amonjj;  them  with  honesty  of  ])Urpose  and  Li.'ood   intent. 
Among  the  chiefs  \vhoop|)osedthe  proi:>Te.>s  of  Waddiny- 
ton's  Party  w^as  one,  Tellet  bv   name.     At  the  time   I 
speak  of  the  party  consistiMl  ol  seventeen  meit,  incharo'c 
of  Mr.  Bi-ewster,  and  a  man   nnnied  dim   Smith  looked 
after  the  store  and  ferry.     Oiw  dav,  duiinLf  the  niontii  of 
April,  18()4,  Tellet  arrived  at  the  ferry  with  his  sons-in- 
law,  known  as  Jack  and  (leorLie.  and  also  accompanied 
by  Klattasine,  a  vonn^'  Indian  of  nineteen   years;  Indian 
slave,    Chravchunume,  twenty   years  of  aLie,  and    three 
more    Indians.      It    was    afternoon    when    they    neare<l 
Smith's   place  and    Klattasine  was  sent  ahead,  conunis- 
sioiied  to  asc(>rtaiu  the  whereabouts  of  the  white  chief, 
as  they  called  Waddinu'ton,  and  to  murder  Smith.     The 
Indian    demanded    that    Smith    ])resent  him  with   :-,ome 
blankets,   which    the    storekeeper  refused  to  do,  where- 
upon   Klattasine  suddenly  tired  at  him,  killinij;  him   in- 
stantaneously.       Then    he    ransacked     the    house,    and 
having'  returned  to  his  companions,  a  plan   was  laid  to 
surprise  Brewster's  camj)  at  the  Third  Blufl'  during  tlu; 
night,  and  thither  the  Indians  now  proceeded. 

Arrived  there  the  scene  that  nresented  itself  was  the 
customary  picture  of  a  survey ^'I's  cam|)  after  the  days' 
work  is  over.  The  men  had  uatlK'rid  round  the  cam]>- 
fire,  and  the  smoke  oi  *lieir  pipes  curled  aloft  in  the  still 


?3 

> 
73 
O 

r 
> 

o 

I— t 

n 
o 

H 

> 

>3 


1 

1 

T^-' 

I 

1 

1 
1 

r 

!        '  !     ■ 

i 

lit 

V 


ii 


il 


I'  !• 


i    '•! 


270 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


eveniiii£,  while  the  smokers  were  chattm^■  about  current 
topics,  entirely  unconscious  of  the  tragedy  that  had 
been  enacted  at  the  ferry,  and  the  awful  fate  that  awaited 
themselves.  As  tlie  party  had  apparently  alwa3's  been 
on  the  friendliest  of  terms  with  the  Indians,  their 
arrival  did  not  arouse  the  least  suspicion.  The  Redskins 
joined  in  the  general  conversation,  and  time  passed  by 
agreeably  enough,  until  the  hour  had  come,  when  every 
white  man  went  to  his  tent,  rolled  himself  in  his  blanket, 
and  slept  the  sleep  of  the  weary. 

But  tbe  Indians  did  not  sleep.  They  lay  watching 
for  the  moment  to  arrive  when  their  fiendish  mission 
could  be  fulfilled,  and  just  before  the  sun  rose  to  throw 
its  glimmer  upon  the  landscape,  and  call  all  creation  to 
life  once  more,  these  demons  rose  to  put  the  peacefully 
slumbering  and  unsuspecting  men  to  death.  The  men 
were  divided  in  the  tents,  sleeping  two  or  three  to- 
gether, and  tho  Indians  rushed  upon  them,  throwing 
down  the  tent  poles  and  with  knives  and  pistols  began 
murdering  the  sleepers,  who,  taken  entirely  by  surprise, 
were  stabbed  or  shot  at  throuoh  the  canvas.  F'or  a  mo- 
ment  all  was  confusion.  The  whoops  and  yells  of  the 
Indians  raniJj  throutrli  the  clear  morninfj  air  and  minified 
with  the  groans  and  imprecations  of  the  struggling  sur- 
veyors, who  tried  in  vain  to  escape  their  cruel  enemy, 
and  when  the  hideous  work  had  been  performed,  only 
three  men  out  of  seventeen  had  escaped  death,  as  if  by 
a  miracle.  They  were  Peter  Petersen,  a  Dane;  Philip 
Buckley,  an  Irishman  and  an  Englishman  by  the  name 
of  Moseley,  the  last  one  being  the  ordy  one  who  escaped 
unscathed. 

The  terror  of  the  situatior  may  l^e  imagined  from 
Moseley 's  statement,  who,  in  his  own  words,  described 
the  scene  as  iie  saw  it:  "I  was  in  a  tent  with  J.  Camp- 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


271 


bell  and  J.  Fieldini>'  a  Scotchman  and  an  Enixlishniun 
respectively,  when  just  about  day-break  T  was  awak- 
eiied  by  two  Indians  coming  to  the  tent  door.  They 
did  not  enter,  but  merely  raised  the  door,  then,  whoop- 
ing aloud,  they  fired  ou  either  side  of  me.  I  was  lying 
in  the  center  of  the  tent,  and  as  they  let  the  ridge  pole 
down  it  fell  upon  me,  and  the  tent  nearly  smothered  us. 
Presently  I  saw  the  canvas  on  either  side  of  me  being 
pierced  with  knives  penetrating  the  bodies  of  my  com- 
panions. I  could  see  through  the  canvas,  and  observed 
the  Indians  going  to  another  tent,  when  I  jumped  \i\) 
and  extricating  myself  plunged  into  the  river,  which  was 
but  a  few  steps  from  me.  I  swam  about  a  hundred 
vards  and  then  crawled  ashore,  when  I  noticed  Indian 
men  and  women  shouting  and  yelling,  where  the  cook's 
provision  tent  was.  I  fled  further  down  the  river  and 
then  met  Petersen,  with  whom  I  proceeded.  We  never 
had  any  difticulties  with  the  Indians  previous  to  this." 

Botli  Buckley  and  Petersen  had  a  most  miraculous 
escape.  The  former  received  two  knife  wounds  and  was 
hit  in  the  head  with  the  butt-end  of  a  musket.  He  fell 
to  the  tjround  like  a  loiX,  ^nd  the  Indians  thought  him 
dead;  but  he  afterwards  recovered  his  senses  and  made 
his  escape.  Petersen's  wrist  was  crushed  by  a  musket 
ball,  and  it  is  a  wonder  that  thev  were  not  murdered 
with  the  rest. 

After  the  Indians  had  assured  themselves  that  their 
victims  were  all  dead,  they  finished  up  their  bloody 
work  bv  horriblv  nmtilating  the  bodies;  teariny-  the 
tents  into  shreds  and  looting  the  camp,  carrvino"  awav 
all  the  stores,  including  two  hundred  pounds  of  bacon. 
Brewster  and  two  of  his  men  were  not  in  the  camp  at 
the  time  of  the  bloodshed.  Thej"  had  gone  up  the  trail 
to  examine  it,  and  the  Indians  at  once  went  in  search  of 


(■ 

1                 A 

i 

i 

i 

i 

1 

w. 


1  ;    ■■  ' 

1 

1 

i 

■M      : 

'  '■  1  ■              ■ 

Hi 

i' 

lil     : 

E 

■r  L      , 

T 

pi  \ 

1 , ' ' 

ii 

I:;/ 

I!  -'Ail 

'■ii: 


iM'l 


272 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


them,  and  all  three  were  murdered  like  their  compan- 
ions. 

The  three  men,  wlio  escaped,  all  made  for  the  ferry, 
wliere  they  found  the  nuitilated  body  of  the  storekeeper. 

They  had  c^reat  difficulty  irt  crossing  tlie  river, 
wounded  as  two  of  them  were,  and  for  fear  of  being 
overtaken  by  the  Indians,  baricaded  themselves  in  a  log 
house,  wliere  they  remained  for  several  days,  until  two 
packers  came  past,  who  took  them  away.  They  were 
then  conveyed  to  Nanaimo,  where  they  were  cared  for 
at  the  French  Hos})ital,  under  the  care  of  Dr.  Pujol. 

The  news  of  this  massacre  created  the  <xreatest  excite- 
ment,  and  no  time  was  lost  in  dealing  out  severe  retri- 
Ijution  and  checkinLi'  these  savages  in  their  wanton 
course,  but  as  they  went  on  to  the  junction  of  Bute  In- 
let and  ]^entinck  Arm,  it  was  feared  that  Manning's 
party,  and  McDonald  and  his  party,  known  to  be,  at  the 
time,  packing  considerable  freight  into  the  Cariboo 
mines,  would  share  the  same  fate  as  the  Waddington 
party,  and  true  enough,  it  was  confirmed  later  by  some  of 
the  scouts  under  McLean,  of  Bonaparte,  that  Mr.  Man- 
ning and  others  were  nmrdered  at  Benshee  Lake. 

The  gunboat  "Forward"  was  dispatched  to  Bute  In- 
let with  twenty-one  volunteers.  The  flagship  *'Sutlej" 
was  dispatched  to  Bentinck  Arm  with  a  party  of  ma- 
rines, taking  with  tliem  two  Clayhoose  Indians  who 
were  acquainted  with  the  murderers  and  witnessed  the 
massacre.  Commissioner  Cox  started  from  Cariboo  for 
Soda  Creek  with  forty  hardy  miners,  well  .equipped  and 
armed  with  good  rifles  and  revolvers,  where  he  expected 
to  meet  with  Captain  McLean,  but  this  gentleman  to- 
gether with  Aleck  McDonald  and  others,  had  started 
out  to  reconnoitre,  only  to  bo  trapped  by    the    Indians. 

Hiding    in    the   thick    underixrowth,    Tellet   and   his 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


273 


'm 


moil  fired  at  tlio  party  from  ambush,  and  McLean 
fell  dead  to  tlie  j^round,  Tlio  fire  was  returned,  but  as 
the  enemy  could  not  be  seen,  no  certain  aim  could  be 
taken,  and  the  white  luen  were  forced  to  retreat.  The 
Indians  now  made  their  appearance  to  pursue  the  enemy 
when  McDonald  and  a  few  more  turned  round,  and,  firing 
from  behind  a  tree,  sent  several  of  the  hostiles  to  the 
grass.  At  last  McDonald  was  the  ouly  one  left,attempting 
to  cover  the  retreat  and  check  the  Indians.  His  friends 
shouted  "come  on,"  but  he  reolied:  "Just  one  shot  more 
at  that  fellow,  and  I  will  come  I"  It  was  too  late,  how- 
evei',  and  his  horrified  friends  saw  the  musket  falling 
from  his  hands,  while  he  sank  dead  to  the  ground  with 
a  bullet  through  liis  head. 

Thus  died  one  of  the  bravest  of  men,  one  of  the  truest 
of  iriends,  trying  to  cover  his  companions,  fearless  to  the 
last;  one  of  the  many  unknown  heroes,  whose  lives  wore 
lost  in  the  great  wilds,  in  trying  to  build  up  a  grand  and 
beautiful  country. 

But  retrilmtion  was  near  at  hand,  and  the  nmrderous 
Indians  soon  after  met  their  fate.  They  wore  surrounded 
in  the  mountains,  and  cut  off  from  escape;  foar  and  hunger 
forced  them  to  surrender  into  the  hands  of  the  law. 
They  were  all  hanged  in  quick  order,  five  of  them  being 
strung  u{)  on  one  beam,  while  Chief  Toilet  boasted  to 
the  last  of  the  number  of  white  men,  whose  blood  he  had 
shed. 

Thus  was  enacted  oii'-  of  the  greatest  tragedies  of  the 
early  days  of  British  Columbia,  and  while  the  invader 
lay  scalped  and  nmtilated  in  the  woods,  the  rightful  lord 
of  the  soil  hung  dangling  from  a  gallows  tree.  Strange, 
indeed,  that  it  should  be  thus,  that  after  all,  the  difi'or- 
ence  between  the  human  being  and  the  savage  brute  is 
so  small;  for  it  should  at  all  times  be  borne  in  mind  that, 


274 


HUNTINC;    ?OR    (iOLD 


althoui^h  Waddinj^toii's  party  liatl  coiniiiitted  no  attroc- 
itios  on  the  Indians,  yet  the  usurper  of  the  country  liad 
in  so  many  instances  caused  tlie  Indians  to  suffer  indii(- 
nities,  wliich  even  more  civilized  races  would  have  con- 
sidered that  only  blood  could  atone  for. 


11 


i(ii. 


':,■;:;  i      p. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Gold  Export  Tux-  Captain  Evans  and  His  Son — In  tho  Edi- 
tor's Kooni — The  Kusso-American  Telegraph — Two  Different 
Routes — How  to  Go  to  Work — Once  More  at  Dean  Canal 
— Some  Beautiful  Land — Predicting  a  Bright  Future — Hon. 
John  Kobson — The  Famous  Granite  Creek — Lumps  of  Gold 
— Advice  to  Disheartened  Miners — Comparing  Fast  and 
Present. 

The  idea  of  introducing  a  so-called  gold  export  tax 
met  \vitli  much  favor  among  the  miners  of  British  Co- 
lumbia, who  in  the  early  .sixties  clamored  loudly  for  a 
measure,  the  object  of  which  was  to  keep  the  gold 
within  the  country  where  it  had  been  found,  and  I 
admit  that  I  was,  at  the  time,  one  of  the  supporters  of 
the  project.  Having  had  an  opportunity,  in  after  years, 
to  more  thoroughly  consider  the  matter  and  view  it  from 
other  points  tlian  those  which  then  presented  them- 
selves to  me,  I  am  inclined  to  think  it  was  well  for  the 
country  that  the  measure  was  never  made  law. 

I  remember  a  curious  incident  in  connection  with 
this,  which  caused  some  anmsement  among  the  initiated 
ones.  During  the  year  1806  a  meeting  was  held  at  the 
The  Theater  Royal,  in  Victoria,  for  the  purpose  of  dis- 
cussing the  matter  of  the  said  tax.  Captain  John 
Evans  was  in  the  chair,  and  a  great  many  people  were 
present,  most  of  them  miners  or  men  interested  in 
mines,  and,  while  a  good  many  speeches  were  made,  the 
general  sentiment  expressed,  seemed  to  be  in  favor  of 
the  tax.  Captain  Evans  was  a  Welchman,  and  one  of 
the  best  known  Cariboo    miners.     From   Billy  Barker's 

276 


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--}:|i 


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f'^ 

276 


irUNTINC;    I'Ok    COLD 


down  to  Ciunoron's,  tlioro  wen;  few  wlio  did  not  know 
him,  and  lie  was  ludd  in  much  (j.stccni  anioii^^  th(!  mim  rs 
of  that  (Hstjict,  ll(;  was  a  Hu(3nt  writer,  and  fnMjUiintly 
contrihutt'd  to  tin;  nows[)a|)(!rs  of  th(i  day,  an<l  was  a  jx-i- 
sonal  friend  of  Alexander  T.  l^ell,  of  tlie  N^ictoria  Tunas, 
t  the  (!()lumns  of  whicli  j)a])er  he  liad  eontril)Ut(Ml  many 
valuable  artieli's;  and  when  the;  tax  (|uestion  arose,  he 
was  a  fervent  advocate  of  its  introduction.  Th(3  Cap- 
tain had  a  son,  Taliesen  Evans,  who  is  now  well  known 
in  (California,  as  a  journalist  and  writer  on  various  sub- 
jects, but  at  the  time  of  which  I  speak,  he;  was  a  coy 
youth  who  had  not,  as  yet,  made  his  debut  before  the 
j)ublie,  in  any  manner. 

Youiil;'  Kvans  was  at  the  mecstinijf  referred  to.  He 
listencMJ  to  the  sj)eeclics  and  could  hardly  refrain  from 
makinur  one  himself,  beinji'  checked  ordv  by  his  vouthful 
modesty,  but  it  ap[)eared  to  him  that  the;  argument  in 
favor  of  the  tax  was  wron<Ji',  and  Ik?  was  anxious  to  say 
so.  After  his  return  home;  tliat  evcninjj;  he  set  to  woi'k 
and  I  am  told,  for  the  first  time  ventured  upon  an 
address  throuo-h  the  public  press.  H(^  wrote  a  Ifjttcr. 
(^jonnncntini;'  u])on  the  meetmL;;  and  its  object  and  uriijc d 
tl'.at,  as  t\\(i  min(!r  was  taxed  for  (iverytlunu;  he  ate  and 
drank,  for  his  clothes,  his  tools,  his  necessaries  of  IW'v. 
and  his  luxuries  alike,  it  would  be  unjust  and  out  <)f 
reason  to  place  a  tax  upon  the  product  of  his  labors, 
Si;ained  amidst  hardships  and  perils,  moreover  as  th(!re 
was  virtually  but  litth^  use  for  tlie  LC«>ld  within  the 
country  itself. 

With  this  messa<j;"e  to  tlw  interested  public  younuf 
Evans  approached  the  Editorial  Sanctum.  lie  had 
attaclied  a  fictitious  name  to  the  hitter  and,  takino-  ad- 
vantai^e  of  the  absence  of  Mr.  Hell,  ])laced  the  communi- 
cati(jn   upon  his  table  and   hurried  away,  presently  the 


HUNTING    I*()K    GOLD 


277 


Editor  ciitcrod,  picked  up  ihc  .\raiius('ri|»t,  road  it  luul 
was  just  dij4(jstiiii»  its  (•oiit(Mits,  wlicii  ('aptaiii  Kvans 
made  his  aj)|)t'araiico. 

"Look  li(T(!  Captain,"  said  Mr.  I  Jell  witli  a  smile, 
"Ilcn^  is  ail  anoiiyiiious  writer  sittiiii^'  down  ujxxi  you 
folks  pretty  well,  and  lie  is  i-iujlit  too,  I  tt'll  you.  I  am 
i;'oiii'j;'  to  piiMisli  what  he  says  at  any  rate.  Just  lo(jk  at 
that." 

With  these  words  he  handed  t,h(!  ('a))tain  tin;  newly 
re('(!ived  communication,  hut  his  friend  had  hardly 
j^lanced  at  it,  when  Ik;  exclaimed  in  utter  amazement: 
"Why,  that  is  my  son's  handwritin*'-." 

l>ut  th(!  letter  was  puhlished  just  the  same,  arid  voum»" 
Evatis  liad  written  his  fiist  newspaper-  arti(de  to  the 
satisfaction  of  tht;  P^ditor,  if  of  no  one;  else. 

In  the  ycuir  IHG.l  tin;  Jlusso- American  T(;le^n'ap]i 
(Jompany  hei^'an  to  cast  ahout  for  the  most  advantancous 
route,  l)y  which  to  lay  their  lines  across  J^ritish  Colum- 
bia from  the  Fraser  River  to  tli(!  coast.  The  chief 
Hnperintendent  of  the  company  was  Colonel  10.  J^ulkley, 
and  I  was  advised  hy  Mr.  Allan  Erancis,  the  United 
Statcis  Consul,  to  report  U{)OU  thi^  country,  situated 
betw(;en  these  loni^itudes  and  IjordeririL,^  on  tin;  Kussiau 
j)ossessions,  so  as  to  assist  the  Colotud  in  his  choice  of  a 
rout(!.  Ilavinii;'  traveled  over  tin;  whoh;  of  that  va,st 
territory  more  than  once,  I  could  easily  comply  with 
the  sUL;;ii^estion,  and  1  reproduce  liere  the  nreater  part  of 
my  re{)ort,  as  it  will  serve  to  show  the  reader  the 
intimate  knowledi^cs,  I  liad  accpiired  of  a  country  hy 
[)eriious  wanderini^s and  hazardous  explorations. 

After  a  few  preliminary  ri'marks  I  go  on  to  say  : 
"Startinj^  from  Fort  Alexander  on  the  l-'n-ser  Kiver 
the  diiitanee  to  Fort  Georyce  is  about  1.50  miles;  from 
F(»rt  Gecjrge  to  Fort  St.  James  on  Stuart  Lake,  follow- 


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278 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


iiiu^  the  course  of  the  river,  tlu'  distjuioe  is  al)out  120 
iiiiles,  thence  f'ollowiiii''  aloiis;;  tiie  l)aiil<  of  Stuart  l^ake  to 
the  Portai^e  ahout  Ht'ty  miles,  the;  ))ortajj;e  is  ten  niih-s, 
from  here  to  Naas  Glee  at  the  lower  end  of  l^ahine 
lake  100  miles,  and  from  this  point  to  Port  Essinti^ton 
is  a  distance  of  about  250  miles,  makinii"  Ji  total  of  about 
700  miles. 

This  was  the  route  which  naturallv  suiXLCested  itself, 
l)ut  I  kn(!W  of  another  more  practicable,  and  susj^gestt'd 
the  fcjllowinj:^:  "Startinsjj  at  the  junction  of  the  Quesnelle 
and  Fraser  Rivers,  keep  alono;  the  east  bank  of  the  Phra- 
ser for  about  fifteen  miles  till  a  small  canyon  is  reached, 
and  there  cross  the  river,  the  width  from  cliff  to  cliff  be- 
ino;  only  two  hundred  yards  at  this  point.  Follow  up 
the  west  bank  of  the  river  about  thirty  miles  further, 
then  strike  across  in  a  northwesterly  direction  towards 
the  Stuart  Ri\«'r;  follow  this  river  for  about  sixty  miles 
to  F'ort  St.  James,  on  Stuart  Lake;  thence  keep  alono- 
the  south  side  of  Stuart  Lake  to  the  ten-mile  portaij^e 
between  thi«-  water-shed  and  Bal)ine  Lake.  Continue 
along  the  soutli  side  of  Babine  Lake  to  the  Naas  Glee; 
follow  down  the  river  from  tliis  [)oint,  until  a  canyon  is 
reached,  distant  from  Naas  Glee  about  one  hundred 
miles,  and  as  far  from  the  coast. 

"This  course  appears  to  be  more  favorable  for  runninsj^ 
the  line.  It  is  tolerably  level,  and  is  but  lightly  tim- 
bered, and  the  river,  from  this  canyon  to  the  sea,  is  nav- 
igable for  batteaux,  thus  facilitating  the  transport  of 
wire,  tools,  etc.  From  this  point,  take  a  northwesterly 
course  till  the  river  Stikine  is  reached,  a  distance  of 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  thus  avoid  the 
Peak  and  Babine  mountains.  This  will  strike  a  point 
on  the  last  named  river,  which  may  be  reached  from  the 
coast  by  boats  or  canoes,  and     thus  further   facilitate 


HUNTINCr    KOK    (lOLD 


27!» 


transport,  wliili;  tliis  coursu  carries  tlic  liiuMicjirly  two 
liuiidred  miles  further  nortli,  tliroujj^li  a  j^nxxl  country, 
easy  to  travil  ami  work  U[)om,  and  accessible  by  several 
water-ways." 

I  further  recommended  tluit  the  Skeena  River  l)e 
avoided,  as  it  is  very  mountainous  and  difficult  to  travel. 
I  also  advised  as  to  the  best  method  of  traveling,  by 
making  all  |)ossil)le  use  of  the  water-ways  as  the  easiest 
means  of  transportinsjj  material  and  supplies. 

My  report  went  on  to  say:  "Boats  adapted  to  the 
Fraser  River  navi<ration,  and  capable  of  carryiiiL?  five 
tons  dead  weioht,  can  be  built  at  Fort  Alexander,  or  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Quesnelle,  where  suitable  timber  may 
be  found  in  abundance.  The  size  required  would  cost 
about  five  hundred  dollars,  and  none  laryjer  could  be 
used  to  any  advantai^e.  These  boats  would  be  re(juired 
between  the  Quesnelle  and  Fort  Alexander,  and  the 
head  of  Stuart  Lake,  as  well  as  on  Babine  Lake,  while  a 
good  wagon  road  can  be  made  along  the  portage  betwuen 
the  two  lakes. 

Boats  of  the  size  mentioned,  will  require  a  crew  of 
eight  men.  Four  of  them  may  be  Indians  who  will  be 
found  to  work  well,  and  the  balance  may  be  made  up  of 
half-breeds  or  old  servants  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
who  can  be  liired  in  this  locality  for  very  moderate 
prices.  They  are  most  excellent  boatmen,  good  pilots 
and  capable  of  rendering  much  information  and  assistance. 

As  soon  as  the  boats  are  ready,  1  would  send  a  party 
to  the  Junction  of  the  Fraser  and  Stuart  rivers  to  com- 
mence operations  from  this  point,  keeping  the  boats  en- 
gaged in  carrying  up  supplies  in  the  meantime.  Too 
much  attention  cannot  be  paid  to  the  management  of  the 
boats  for  the  distribution  of  material  a'ld  sujiplies  at  the 
proper  time  and   places  which  will  facilitate  operations 


" 


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280 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


more  than  auytliiiig  else,  and  I  would  therefore  recom- 
mend to  have  a  well  qualified  man  as  superintendent 
of  the  boats  and  to  keep  the  same  crews  in  the  boats  all 
the  time,  provided  they  do  their  duty,  as  by  so  doing 
much  confusion  and  discontent  will  be  avoided.  Leaving 
the  junction  of  the  two  rivers,  I  would  go  to  Stuart  Lake 
and  commence  operations,  choosing  the  south  side  as  the 
one  best  adapted  to  the  purpose. 

"Havini'"  commenced  on  Stuart  lake  I  would  take  a 
party  to  the  portage  and  start  the  making  of  the  road 
there.  This  should  be  easily  made,  as  the  distance  is 
only  ten  miles,  and  the  country  presents  a  fine  stretch 
of  rolling  land;  the  pasture  is  good  here,  wild  hay  grow- 
ing in  abundance,  which  may  be  cut  and  stored  in 
sufficient  <|uantity  for  any  number  of  cattle  and  horses 
i^b  may  be  found  desirable  to  keep  through  the  winter. 
At  the  same  time  men  should  start  in,  whip-sawing  and 
building  canoes  at  the  head  of  Babine  lake,  as  the 
canoes  obtained  here  are  made  of  cotton  wood,  and  not 
well  adapted  to  carrying  freight. 

"In  carrying  cargoes  across  the  lakes  it  may  be  found 
necessary  to  do  the  principal  work  at  night,  when  all  is 
calm,  as  in  these  high  latitudes  the  wind  often  rises 
during  the  day  to  a  perfect  gale,  at  times  making  the 
sea  so  turbulent  as  to  surprise  any  fresh  water  sailor. 

"In  runnino^  the  line  alonij:  Babine  Lake,  the  south 
side  will  be  found  the  one  to  be  preferred,  although  the 
hills  are  ruoijfed,  but  at  the  same  time  not  very  hiirh. 
On  the  north  side  there  are  many  large  bays,  while  in 
other  places  the  land  is  rolling  and  clear  for  considera- 
ble distances.  The  country  is  open  to  the  northwest 
from  Naas  Glee,  where  lie  the  Indian  villages  of  Kiss- 
pi-yaks  and  Kith-a-rath. 

"In  regard  to  the  necessary  operations  to  be  undertak- 


!f\ 


KOSKEEMO   INDIAN   CHIEFS. 


UA'.IiJ 


282 


HUNTING    FOR    GOT.D 


Ifl 


en  on  the  seaboard,  I  would  recommend  that  an  expedi 
tion,  suppHed  with  all  necessary  materials,  be  dispatched 
to  Stikine  River,  as  this  will  be  a  central  point  upon  the 
coast,  on  account  of  the  river  being  navigable,  as  far 
as  is  necessary,  to  a  point  through  the  coast  range, 
from  whence  a  line  may  be  run  northwest  to  Sitka,  and 
another  southeast  to  connect  with  Naas  Glee." 

The  reader  knows  what  it  meant  to  be  able  to  write 
so  exhaustive  a  report  of  a  vast,  and  mostly  unknown 
territory.  My  exjterience  had  cost  tremendous  efforts 
and  great  suffering.  I  had  gone  hungry  and  weary  for 
many  days,  in  danger  of  my  life  among  savage  Indians, 
never  knowing  when  they  might  turn  upon  me,  and  it 
may,  therefore,  appear  excusable  .that  I  felt  hurt  and  in- 
dignant at  the  fact  that  no  proper  acknowledgment  was 
ever  accorded  me  in  regard  to  a  report  which  contained 
much  valuable  information,  and  some  practical  advice. 

Let  me  not  pass  over  this  period  of  my  stay  in  Brit- 
ish Columbia,  without  revertinix  once  more  to  Dean 
Canal.  It  will  be  remembered  that  mv  first  visit  to  this 
inlet  was  not  fraught  with  any  result  as  regards  pene- 
trating the  mountains,  and  nnding:  a  route  into  the  inte- 
rior,  but  later  on,  I  succeeded  in  this  respect.  I  found 
that  having  overcome  the  difficulties  which  first  presented 
themselves  to  me,  my  efforts  were  richly  rewarded.  I 
came  upon  a  magnificent  country  of  rich,  rolling  forest 
land,  splendid  pastures,  and  altogether,  a  country  pre- 
sentinix  the  iMJssibilities  of  thousandsof  homes  beinu;  built 
in  this  region.  Rivers  and  lakes,  forests  and  meadows, 
varied  in  pleasing  order,  and  here,  indeed,  is  the  short- 
est route  from  the  coast  to  Fort  Fraser,  antl  further 
on  to  Fort  James  or  Fort  Georixe.  The  river  Nechaco 
runs  southwest  from  T'raser  Lake,  and  dividing  itself, 
runs  through  a  number  of  other  lakes,  until  it  ia  finally 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


28a 


lost  in  the  Tazella  Lakes.  I  understand  that  latclv  a 
move  has  been  made  to  settle  this  land,  upon  the  advan- 
tages of  which  I  reported  to  the  government  years  ago, 
and  I  verily  believe  that  this  will  become  one  of  the 
most  prominent  portions  of  British  Columbia.  Through 
this  country  will,  no  doubt,  run  the  projected  railr<>ad 
from  Fort  George  to  the  coast,  and  I  predict  a  splendid 
future  for  the  settlers  on  Dean  Canal  and  Salmon  River. 

In  1886,  when  the  Hon.  John  Robson  was  Minister 
of  Mines,  I  was  aoain  in  British  Columbia.  At  that 
time  the  Granite  Creek  District  had  attracted  nmch  at- 
tention, and  I  was  bent  upon  making  a  close  examina- 
tion of  the  various  localities  in  this  district.  I  subse- 
quently made  an  official  report  to  Mr.  Robson,  and  as  it 
may  serve  to  illustrate  the  condition  of  that  region  at 
the  time  of  my  visit,  I  here  append  the  principal  points 
of  its  contents,  which  may  not  be  without  scnne  interest. 

I  begin  where  I  pass  the  so-called  Summit  House, 
and  soon  found  the  geological  formation  to  be  real  gran- 
ite, below  which  the  slate  formation  commences  and 
contiimes  all  the  wav  down.  Followiniij  the  trail  down 
Whipsaw  Gulch,  I  struck  the  gravel  benches  and  roll- 
ing ridges,  covering  a  large  extent  of  country  and  clear- 
ly showing  the  great  wash  of  an  earlier  period  of  the 
earth's  history,  when,  1  take  it,  large  bodies  of  water, 
receding:  from  the  lakes,  caused  the  formation  of  ijrravel 
ridges,  gulches,  creeks  and  ravines,-  where,  indeed,  one 
would  expect  to  find  gold.  The  wash  is  very  extensive, 
and  some  of  the  creeks  and  gulches  had  been  prospected 
and  a  small  quantity  of  gold  found,  but  not  entiugh  to 
pay  for  working. 

Nine-Mile  Creek  and  Whipsaw  Gulch  had  been  pros- 
pected chiefiy  by  Chinamen,  and  the  Mongolian  had 
stuck  to  it  witii  all  the  tenacity,  characterizing  his  race, 


m\ 


284 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


m 


■  Mi 


but  liad  been  forced  to  jjjiveiipand  al)andon  tlio  di^^gings. 
The  soiitli  fork  ot'tlie  Similkaiiieen  had  also  been  pros- 
pected for  a  stretch  of  fifteen  or  twenty  niiU'S,  but 
nothing  of  conse(|uenee  liad  been  found.  Here  is  .situated 
AlHsoii's  coppir  mine,  and  I  saw  some  very  fine  speci- 
mens of  peacock  ore  from  tliis  section. 

All  the  way  down  the  ridges  gravel  (U'curs,  and,  as  I 
neared  the  river,  some  of  the  low  l)enches  looked  very 
favorable.  I  found  several  Chinamen  at  work  and 
further  up  the  stream  a  company  of  white  men  were 
preparmg  to  go  prospecting.  The  gravel  was  heavy 
and  did  not  wash  offreadilv,  and  the  ijrold,  bein«j;'  fine,  no 
doubt  got  away  through  any  sluices  with  fall  enough  to 
carry  oft'  gravel.  I  took  it  for  granted  that  these 
extensive  gravel  benches  will  never  be  washed  off"  and 
that  working  on  bars  and  bends  will  be  the  extent  of 
work  done  on  the  Similkameen  for  many  years  to  come. 

Leaving  Allison's  I  took  the  trail  for  Granite.  It  led 
up  steep  grades  at  the  back  of  Tulameen,  and  on  this 
road  I  met  numerous  prospectors  returning  disgusted, 
in  fact,  I  had  not  seen  so  many  sad  miners  in  a  heap 
since  the  days  of  '49  in  California,  and  I  could  not  re- 
frain from  telling  some  of  them  that  their  poor  experience 
should  serve  them  as  a  warninLir  ni^t  to  leave  house  and 
home  agidn  to  tempt  fickle  fortune. 

Arrived  at  the  fiat  oiiposite  Granite  city,  I  camped 
and  made  a  thorough  examination  of  the  far-fauied 
Granite  Creek.  The  distance  from  the  river  to  the 
forks  of  the  creek  is  four  or  five  miles,  and  the  hills, 
bordering  it,  rise  very  abruptly  forming,  so  to  s[)eak,  a 
natural  ground-sluice  so  that  any  gold  on  the  hillsides 
nmst  find  its  way  into  the  creek;  but  nothing  like  bench 
or  hill-diiririiiiis  had  as  vet  been  worked  with  success 
with  the  exception  of  the  larger  fiats   at  the  mouth  of 


HUNTINO    FOR    GOLD 


285 


Granite  Creek.  Opposite  the  town  a  quartz  leclj^e  had 
just  been  h)cated  and  work  started,  and  a  nuinl)er  of 
claims  on  the  Tuhiuieen  beh)\v  tlie  mouth  of  the  Granite 
were  also  beinsf  worked. 

Leaving  Granite  I  took  the  trail  for  Otter  Flat, 
situated  about  seven  mile.s  distant.  On  the  larije  Flats 
above  Granite  Creek  I  noticed  several  Chinamen,  who 
divided  their  attention  between  mining  on  the  river  and 
raising  potatoes  and  other  vegetables  in  large  quantities 
higher  up.  The  u})per  part  of  the  trail  led  through  a 
most  beautiful  country  of  the  finest  pasture  land  and  to 
all  a])pearance  afibrding  a  better  location  for  the  herd 
than  for  the  miner.  The  town  of  Otter  is  situated  on  a 
large  fine  fiat  at  the  junction  of  the  river  and  creek, 
being  originally  a  Hudson  Bay  Company's  Camp,  and 
the  old  Bri«>'ade  trail  from  Hope  comes  down  the  rido'e 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  but  it  had  ceased  to  be 
used  and  was  blocked  with  fallen  timber.  The  t(>wn, 
when  I  visited  it,  consisted  of  two  stores,  two  saloons,  a 
bakery,  conducted  by  a  chinaman,  a  branch  postoftice 
and  a  news  depot,  but  its  few  residents  looked  forward 
to,  what  they  considered,  a  promising  future. 

I  then  took  the  Nicola  Valley  trail  and  went  to  Bowl- 
der Creek,  where  I  found  several  companies  holding  on 
to  their  locations  with  great  determination,  although 
they  were  scarcely  making  ^  wages.  One  shaft,  sunk 
forty  feet,  proved  a  failure,  while  others,  sunk  in  shallov/^ 
ground,  paid  well,  and  Collins'  Gulch  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river  paid  wage^J  but  was  about  worked  out. 
Here  1  was  shown  a  piece  of  gold,  weighing  one  ounce 
and  three-quarters,  but  it  was  regarded  as  something 
phenomenal  in  these  parts.  On  Cedar  Creek,  two  miles 
above  Otter  Flat,  several  companies  were  at  work,  some 
of  them  making  small  wages  and  others  nothing  at  all; 


280 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


1.1       ! 


there    was    but   little   excitement,   and    evervbodv    felt 
like  giving  it  up. 

On  the  Tulanieen,  above  Otter  Flat,  a  San  Francisco 
company  had  located,  but  they  were  not  ready  to  test 
their  claim,  as  they  required  special  machinery  to  work 
their  diggings,  which  were  very  deep. 

The  Golden  Crown  Company  was  getting  ready  to 
commence  operations,  and  the  Beaver  Oompany  had  a 
ditch  out  of  Slate  Creek  and  a  powerful  overshot  wheel 
working  an  eight  inch  pump.  Upon  striking  the  granite 
sand,  which  seems  to  prevail  generally  on  the  Flats  of 
the  Tulameen,  the  water  came  in  too  strong  for  the 
pump  and  stayed  any  further  progress  for  the  time  being. 
This  company  owned  thirty-five  claims  and  had  a  front- 
age of  2,000  feet  on  the  river.  It  was  undoubtedly  the 
finovst  mining  property  on  the  Tulameen;  and  the  focili- 
ties  for  working  could  not  be  surpassed,  as  there  was  a 
fall  of  twenty-five  feet  in  the  entire  length  of  the  claim. 
When  I  was  there  the  company  was  about  to  sink  an 
other  shaft  in  a  more  favorable  pliice. 

At  California  Company's  claim  expectations  ran  high, 
two  dams  had  been  put  in,  and  good  results  were  antici- 
pated. It  was  located  in  a  canyon  and  there  were 
several  other  companies  in  the  vicinity,  some  of  them 
worked  by  Chinese.  The  Colorado  Company  had  just 
taken  out  a  lump,  weighing  nearly  six  ounces,  but  that 
sort  of  iiUggets  were  not  so  common  here  as  they  were 
in  certain  places  on  the  Yuba  gold-fields  in  the  early  days. 
But  such  revelations  of  gold  may  never  be  seen  again  in 
this  era  of  ^jeoloojical  events.  Slate  Creek  was  consid 
ered  the  best  location  among  the  many  Tulameen  claims, 
and  yet  it  yielded  barely  five  dollars  a  day.  This  creek 
runs  through  the  center  of  the  Beaver  Company's  prop- 
erty. 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


287 


A  well-defined  quartz  ledge  could  be  located  near 
Eagle  Creek,  on  the  Tulameen,  but  nothing  had  been 
done,  as  yet,  to  test  it.  After  all,  I  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  there  was  considerable  gold  to  be  taken  out 
of  the  Tulameen  River  when  the  requisite  appliances 
should  be  put  upon  the  ground. 

As  I  glance  over  the  early  pages  of  this  book,  I  re- 
view, at  the  same  time,  the  early  history  of  modern  gold- 
finding.  It  has  never  been  surpassed;  it  will  never  be 
equaled,  1  believe.  The  gold  which  the  forty-niner  be- 
held in  the  dawn  of  California's  most  remarkable  epoch, 
was  like  the  dawn  of  day,  when  the  sun  throws  its  rose- 
ate hues  over  all  the  heavens.  As  the  day  wears  on, 
the  golden  sunbeams  still  shine  down  upon  us,  but  from 
a  nmch  smaller  compass.  So,  to-day,  the  gold-hunter 
has  a  much  smaller  field  in  which  to  operate.  And  as 
the  sun  at  meridian,  appears  to  be  much  further  removed 
from  us  than  when  it  rises,  so,  to-day,  the  gold  appears 
to  be  much  further  removed  from  the  miner  than  it  was 
of  yore.  Will  the  day  end  with  another  glorious  burst 
of  gold, or  will  the  sun  be  veiled  with  heavy  clouds  as 
it  sets  upon  the  present  era?     Who  can  tell. 


Ii  I 


■'  !      ■         i 
1*      '         i 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Iiuliaus — The  Yiilue  of  Natives — Medicine  ]\[eu  iind  Superstition 
— All  Incident  at  Yuclatan  Villef^c-— Heart  Disease  and  no 
Bullet — INIeuioir  From  tlie  Naas  Kiver — Singular  Customs 
—The  Price  of  Flour— The  White  Man  and  the  Red  :\ran— 
How  They  Died — Scarlet  Fever — Indian  Mechanics — A  Prom- 
isinfif  Countrv. 

I  cannot  here  refrain  from  once  more  revertino-  to  the 
Indiiins  of  British  Columbia,  who  indeed  phiyed  a  prom- 
inent part  in  the  early  history  of  caucasion  invasion  of 
their  country.  In  many  instances  they  contested  most 
hitterlv,  the  forward  march  of  the  white  man,  while  in 
others  they  became  his  faithful  friends.  Perhaps  it 
would  have  been  ini))ossible  to  penetrate  to  the  fastnesses 
of  some  of  these  reoions  but  for  the  guidance  of  a  native, 
who  directed  the  steps  of  the  adventurer,  showed  him 
the  trails  and  conducted  him,  on  foot  or  in  his  canoe, 
into  the  interior  of  the  country. 

The  relation  which  we  assumed  toward  some  of  the 
Indians  was  that  of  guardians  who  became  responsible 
for  their  welfare,  and  must  render  account  to  their  friends 
and  relatives  in  case  of  anything  happening  to  them 
wliilst  traveling  in  our  company.  They  were  valued  as  so 
much  cattle  by  their  own  people,  and  in  case  of  an  acci- 
dent, restitution  could  always  be  made  b}-  presenting  their 
friends  with  blankets  or  other  goods,  nmch  after  the 
manner  in  which  modern  grief  is  assuaged  by  demanding 
hard  cash  from  a  railroad  company  to  make  up  for  the 
untimely  death  of  a  relative  who  has  lost  his  life  through 


2S8 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


289 


their  iieo'lect,  or  whilst  travehiiii  in  tlieir  cjire.  I  still 
havo  a  lively  recolKctiuii  ot*  nearly  losing  two  Indians, 
who  would  have  cost  nie  something  like  sixty  blankets, 
had  they  perished  in  the  river  where  we  capsized,  and  I 
admit  tljat,  as  I  saw  them  carrieil  down  the  stream,  I 
was  more  concerned  ahout  tlie  heavv  damages,  than  I 
was  ahout  the  lives  of  the  two  natives  whose  struijitjjles 
finally  brought  them  safely  ashore,  much  to  my  relief. 
In  fact,  in  all  such  cases  the  first  thouglit  that  seemed 
naturally  to  occur  to  one,  was  a  quick  calculation  of  how 
many  blankets  one  would  have  to  pay  for  so  nmch  native 
fiesh  and  blood. 

Superstition  reigned  supreme  among  the  Indians,  and 
it  was  considerably  increased  by  the  weird  and  singular 
action  on  the  part  of  the  medicine  man  who  held  sway 
over  the  natives  by  mystifying  them  with  his  phantastic 
actions.  The  medicine  man  played  altogether  a  curious 
})art  in  the  Indian  community,  and  was  in  many  cases 
both  revered  and  abhorl-ed  at  the  same  time.  He  was 
looked  up  to  because  of  the  superior  knowledge  which 
he  was  believed  to  possess,  and  feared  because  of  the 
evil  power  he  was  often  supposed  to  exercise,  and  I  am 
here  reminded  of  an  incident  which  goes  to  prove  the 
superstition  of  the  Indians  in  legard  to  the  possibilities 
of  the  medicine  man. 

According  to  the  usual  custom  amonofst  the  Indians, 
of  leaving  their  villages  in  a  body,  every  man  woman 
and  child  in  the  Yuclatan  villaiije  was  about  to  take  to 
their  canoes,  carrying  with  them  all  their  belongings;  but, 
just  as  they  were  pushing  off  from  the  shore,  it  was  dis 
covered  that  the  medicine  man  was  not  in  his  accustomed 
place  in  his  canoe.  His  reputation  was  bad  in  the 
villao-e,  and  he  was  feared  as  well  as  hated,  and  had  it 
not  been  considered  an  omen  of  bad  luck  to  depart  with- 


i:'.i(» 


HUNTINC.    FOR    CiOLD 


■II 


II-  ^  • 


rl 


&• 


iirii 


■  1] 


h 


Ltli 


out  him,  tli«'\-  would  i>lii(llv  liavi'  left  liiiii  lu'liiiid. 
Wondcri'iii;'  wluit  coidd  luive  Ijccoiiii'  of  liiiii,  tlic  yoiiii^ 
bucks  ctdli'd  liiiii  loudly  l>y  naiiu',  l)Ut  rccciN  iiiL?  no  re- 
spouse,  tear  l)e*;au  to  take  j)ossessi(>ii  of  the  dc[)art iiii;' 
Indians,  when  suddenly  an  old  s(|uaw  cried  out  in  a 
suppressed  tone:  ''See  him  on  the  t(»j»  of  the  house  I" 

Evervhodv  looked  in  the  direction,  and,  sure  enough, 
beheld  the  hideous  form  of  the  Medicine  man  on  the 
rid^e  of  a  roof,  crouchinjj^  in  a  half-sittinn"  posture,  jtoint- 
inii"  at  them  with  one  loiiu  'can  finder  and  assuminu:  an 
air  of  mystery  which  was  well  calculated  to  pu/zle  the 
Indians.  Suddenlv  the  attention  of  evervhodv  was 
drawn  from  thi'  old  man  p(;rched  on  the  roof  to  a  younu' 
buck  who  had  been  standing  in  the  shallow  water 
alongside  n\'  his  canoe,  and  with  the  others  v'iewing 
the  singulai-  scene.  With  a  loud  i)iercini::  cr\'  he  fell 
forward  without  warning;  there  was  a  s])lash  in  the 
water,  and  his  astonished  and  horrified  conu'ade  drew 
his  lifeless  boilv  into  their  canoe. 

Although  not  a  sound  but  the  voices  or  the  Indians 
had  hven  heard,  still  the  general  impression  was  that  tiie 
medicine  man  had  killed  the  youth  bv  silentlv  seiKhn*''  a 
bullet  into  his  heart.  The  women  set  up  a  wail,  and 
the  bucks  stood  about  in  a  sullen  and  defiant  manner, 
waitinu'  oidv  for  one  word  of  encourai>'ement  to  aveiM'f 
the  cruel  death  of  one  of  theii'  nund)er. 

Suddenly  a  brave  in  red  paint  stepped  to  the  front. 
*vLet  us  kill  the  nuirderer!"  he  cried;  and  with  ayell  and 
a  whoop  they  made  a  mad  rush  for  the  hut,  upon  the 
roof  of  whi<'h  the  old  uian    had    perched  himself      'J'hey 


were  l)ent  u})()n  murder,  ami  tlie  me(hcuK'  man  [)erceive(i 
it;  so  he  let  go  of  the  ridge  and  allowed  Inmself  to  drop 
down  behind  the  hut,  but  in  so  doing  he  rolled  over  and 
intiicted  a  hideous  wound  in  the  head. 


w, 


o 

H 


O 


'    !| 


,!| 


-Tt 


fl 


i 


II    1 
t     I 


i;i 


I" 


'■  i 


m 


M 


1 

il 
ill 


E 


m 


?Hi  I 


:| 


;':i 


ill 


1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

,    ' 

i 
1 

!       ■ 

! 

J 

2')2 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


The  Tndijins  found  liiui  buliirul  the  liut,  lyiiis?  on  tlio 
ground  and  blcedinjjj  profusely  from  a  L^apiiio^  wound. 
Tliey  drao-jrcd  him  out  and  would  certainly  havt;  murdered 
him,  had  not  a  white  man  who  hap|)ened  to  be  present, 
dissuaded  them  by  arguing  to  them  that  the  medicine 
man,  not  having  a  gun,  could  not  have  fired  a  shot  at 
anybody. 

For  awhile  the  natives  seemed  pacified,  and  the  white 
man,  being  something  of  a  surgeon  and  desirous  of  dis- 
covering the  cause  of  death,  undertook  a  post-mortem 
examination.  He  took  out  the  heart  of  the  dead  man 
and  found  in  it  a  clot  of  blood  which  had  undoubtedly 
stopped  the  circulation  and  caused  the  sudden  colapse; 
but  the  natives,  seeing  it,  innnediately  took  it  to  be  the 
substance  that  had  been  fired  at  the  dead  buck  by  the 
wicked  medicine  man  and  once  more  prepared  to  kill  the 
alleged  slayer  of  their  friend.  Again  the  white  man  in- 
terfered and  saved  the  object  of  their  hatred,  but  the 
incident  will  show  the  mysterious  powers  attributed  to 
the  medicine  man  and  the  manner  in  which  he  was  re- 
garded by  the  natives 

The  Indians  on  the  Naas  River  were  very  numerous 
in  the  early  days.  They  were  generally  clad  in  fur  coats 
and  dirty  blankets  and  did  not  present  a  very  inviting 
appearance.  But  they  were  a  careless,  indifferent  lot; 
they  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  time  in  dancing, 
feastinof  and  smoking  and  were  so  much  given  to  the  in- 
dulgence  in  pleasure  that  they  entirely  forgot  to  put 
sometliing  by  for  a  rainy  day,  and,  when  winter  came, 
they  generally  liad  to  go  starving  for  months,  notwith- 
standing that  the  river  abounded  in  salmon,  and  they 
might  have  secured  enough  food  to  carry  them  over  the 
winter,  had  they  not  been  so  given  to  anuisements. 

The  medicine  li^an  exercised  the  greatest  power  also 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


20:^ 


in  these  quarters  and  often  held  the  ]»eople  in  ahjectsuh- 
jecrion.  I  have  seen  many  singular  proofs  of  the  manner 
in  which  one  man's  mind  may  direct  that  of  anotlier  until 
it  l)econies  perfect  master  of  the  weaker  one  to  such  a 
degree  that  tlu.'  latter  may  be  made  to  imagine  almost 
anything.  These  "doctors"  professed  to  be  able  to  "ill- 
wish"  anybody  or  to  throw  any*  particular  spell  over  their 
subjects  who  not  only  believed  in  the  possibility  of  such 
a  thing  but  went  so  far  as  to  suffer  both  physical  and 
mental  pain  in  the  firm  conviction  that  it  had  been  forced 
upon  them  by  the  invocation  of  the  medicine  man,  who 
could  command  the  evil  spirits.  Thus  it  has  often 
happened  that  a  young  buck  would  look  ill  and  suffering 
and  when  asked  what  was  the  matter,  would  explain  that 
he  was  sick,  the  doctor  had  cast  his  spell  over  him,  and 
he  was  dying.  And,  indeed,  it  was  not  by  any  means  a 
rare  occurence,  that  young  men  in  this  plight  would  pos- 
itively refuse  to  take  eitlier  food  or  medicine  and  would 
gradually  become  weaker  and  weaker  through  sheer 
exhaustion  and  fear.  These  illustrations  would  tend  to 
show,that  if  the  Indians  do  not  know  what  we  callminil- 
cure  the}^  certainly  understand  its  opposite-mind-killing, 
and  the  success  with  which  they  practice  it  may  demon- 
strate the  correctness  of  a  theory  entertained  by  some 
white  people  in  our  days. 

But  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  doctors  prac- 
ticed their  noble  profession  for  nothing.  On  the  con- 
trary their  greed  often  knew  no  bounds,  and  this  was  one 
of  the  reasons,  why  they  were  so  much  detested.  They 
carried  with  them  a  small  box  corresponding  with  the 
orthodox  satchel  of  their  medical  confreres  of  more  civil- 
ized communities;  but,  in  place  ofcostly  instruments  and 
an  assortment  of  pills,  the  box  contains  bones  and  beads, 
feathers,  stones  and  all  sorts  of  trinkets.     Naturally  the 


.t 


^ 


w 


Mm      '    I: 


m 

pi 


i 


[ 


~    i    -  -  i  : 


294 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


owner  surroiuulod  liis  casket  witli  a  great  deal  ofiny.stery 
and  it  did  at  times  contain  some  curious  oljects,  sucli  as 
fingers  and  other  parts  oftlie  human  anatomy  in  a  ghastly 
dis])lay.  And,  when  the  learned  doctor  has  exercised 
his  inHuence  over  any  particular  individual,  or  number  of 
individuals  he  put  in  his  charge  with  the  same  discretion  as 
does  the  physician  of  a  civilized  connnunity  who  never  for- 
gets to  distinguish  between  the  millionaire  and  the 
pauper,  and  the  wealth  of  the  medicine  man  was  meas- 
ured by  the  quantity  of  furs  and  blankets  he  had  exacted 
from  his  unfortunate  victim^\ 

The  Indians  practiced  polygamy  in  proportion  to  their 
wealth.  Ordinarily  speaking  an  Indian  would  have  but 
one  squaw,  but,  if  he  were  rich  and  a  chief  of  inqjortance, 
it  was  a  common  thing  to  increase  his  household  by 
adding  one  or  more  wives  to  the  original  one.  When  a 
girl  was  of  marriageable  age  her  lower  lip  was  pierced 
and  a  pin  inserted.  This  pin  had  a  flat  end,  which  re- 
mained in  the  mouth,  while  the  rest  protruded  through 
the  lip  and  over  the  chin  an  inch  or  more,  Asa  matter 
of  course  it  gave  the  girl  a  very  hideous  appearatice  in 
the  judgment  of  a  Caucasian  connoisseur  of  female 
beauty;  but  according  to  the  ideas  of  savagedom,  Venus 
lierself  is  defective,  in  as  much  as  her  lip  was  never 
pierced.  The  marriage  ceremony  was  the  simplest  one 
imaginable,  being  entirely  void  of  any  rite  or  other  im- 
posing formalitv.  A  irreat  feast  was  arranged  and  at  it 
the  names  of  the  bride  and  groom  were  called  out,  this 
constituting  the  tying  of  the  nuptial  knot,  while  the 
bride's  brothers,  uncles,  and  other  relatives  received  hand- 
some presents,  consisting  of  blankets  and  furs  often  in 
large  quantities.  The  wedding  feast  generally  concluded 
with  dancing  and  singing,  which  was  kept  up  for  many 
hours.     They    had   a  perfect   system    of  dividing  their 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


295 


couHiiuiiity  into  groups.  Tliis  I  have  found  to  bo  the 
case  amoiiij:  the  Indians  all  over  North  America,  and  the 
•  )hject  seeuis  to  be  to  prevent  too  close  intermarriage. 
The  groups  or  "crests"  are  usually  called  after  some 
animal,  such  as  the  wolf,  the  bear,  the  eagle  and  so  on; 
and  members  of  the  same  crest  do  not  marry. 

In  no  civilized  comnumity  does  a  more  complete  code 
of  etiquette  exist  than  I  found  among  th(}  Naas  River 
Indians.  Every  chief  was  accorded  the  privileges  of 
his  particular  rank,  and  any  attempts  to  assume  a  higher 
rank  than  the  one  to  which  he  was  entitled,  was  at  once 
resented  The  chiefs  on  the  Naas  used  the  totem  poles 
as  indications  of  their  social  standing,  the  same  as  I 
afterwards  found  to  be  the  case  in  Alaska;  the  hio^ht  of 
the  pole  denoting  the  raidv  of  its  owner,  and  it  was  not 
uncommon  for  two  chiefs  to  disagree  U[)on  this  matter. 
I  remember  one  such  case,  where  a  chief  put  up  a 
pole,  much  taller  than  he  was  entitled  to,  the  result 
beint;  a  fiyjht  with  another  chief  whose  rank  he  had  en- 
crouched  upon.  The  offender  was  wounded  in  the  arm 
at  the  beginning  of  the  fight,  whereupon  he  immediately 
submitted  and  cut  his  pole  down  to  the  regulation 
hight. 

Their  principal  food  consisted  of  dried  salmon.  During 
the  summer  months  the  fish  was  cau^jht  in  the  rivers, 
sun-dried  and  put  away  for  winter  use.  The  natives 
also  gathered  different  kinds  of  berries,  which  they  pre- 
served in  grease;  but  one  of  their  most  importantarticles 
of  food  was  a  loaf,  made  from  seaweed.  The  seaweed 
when  gathered,  was  properly  prepared  and  pressed  into 
cakes  or  loaves,  which  were  much  relished  by  the  natives. 

Now-a-days,  as  a  matter  of  course,  the  Indians  eat 
many  kinds  of  food,  which  have  been  introduced  by  the 
white  men,  but  even  as  late  as  1877  this  was  not  the 


296 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


u      i  I 


U 


Ml 


U' 


"  m 


case.  At  that  time  flour  cost  ten  cents  per  ptjuiid,  and 
the  Indians  could  not  atiord  to  buy  it.  The  Hudson 
Bay  Company  was  the  first  to  give  the  native  an  idea  of 
trading,  and  the  latter  soon  learned  that  he  had  to  pay 
for  trade.  In  the  spring  and  fall  he  would  come  to  the 
trading  posts  with  his  season's  catch  of  furs  or  fish  and, 
if  he  Avislied  to  buy  a  Flint- lock  musket,  the  bargain 
would  be  made  by  placing  the  musket,  end  up  in  the 
ground,  after  which  the  Indian  was  told  to  put  his  furs 
down,  one  upon  the  other,  until  the  level  of  the  other 
end  of  the  sfun  was  reached.  Then  the  trader  took  the 
pile  of  skins,  and  the  Indian  took  the  musket. 

Among  the  many  curious  traditions  existing  among 
the  Naas  river  Indians,  none  perhaps  is  more  character- 
istic than  the  narrative  of  how  the  red  and  the  white 
man  met  for  the  first  time.  The  storv  in  substance  is  as 
follows:  A  number  of  Indians  were  fishinir  in  a  larj^e 
canoe  at  the  mouth  of  the  Naas  River,  when  suddenly 
a  thick  mist  surrounded  them.  After  awhile  thev 
heard  a  strange  noise,  not  far  distant,  and  they  at  once 
thought  that  some  evil  spirit  of  the  great  ocean  had 
risen  from  the  deep  to  swallow  them,  wherefore  they 
hauled  in  their  cedar  lines  and  seizing  their  paddles, 
pulled  for  the  shore  as  fast  as  they  could.  But  the 
dread  noise  did  not  subside,  on  the  contrary  it  seemed 
to  follow  close  upon  them,  and  in  fear  and  trembling 
they  expected  every  moment  to  encounter  some  fearful 
monster.  At  last  they  reached  land  and  jumped  ashore, 
and  there  they  stood  looking  into  the  dense  fog,  anxiously 
watching  tlie  sound,  which  grew  louder  and  louder,  as  it 
evidently  approached  the  terror-stricken  Indians.  But 
what  can  describe  their  amazement  and  consternation, 
when  they  suddenly  saw  a  large  boat  of  a  strange  and 
unknown  build  gliding  out  of  the  mist  towards  the  ver}' 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


•207 


place  where  they  stood,  the  boat  being  tilled  with  white 
men? 

The  strange  appearance  of  the  pale-faces  created  the 
greatest  sur[)rise  anioi  ,  the  Indians,  who  now  witnessed 
the  white  men  landing  and  preparing  to  camp;  but  tliey 
were  soon  to  behold  even  <jreater  wonders.  The  stranojers 
beckoned  the  Indians  toward  them  and  sii^ned  to  them 
to  brinLj  some  iisli.  One  of  them  carried  somethin<»' 
resembling  a  stick,  which  he  pointed  at  a  bird  Hying 
overhead.  Then  tliey  saw  fire  and  smoke  issuing  from 
the  stick,  while  a  thunderinL'  sound  called  all  the  echoes 
of  the  mountains  to  answer  its  sharp,  sudden  crack,  and 
the  bird  fell  lifeless  to  the  ground  with  blood  upon  its 
feathers.  Then  died  all  the  Indians,  by  wdiich  expression 
is  meant  in  the  language  of  the  Naas  River  people,  that 
they  were  fairl}'  taken  back  with  surprise.  When  they 
had  again  recovered  themselves,  they  questioned  t)ne 
another  as  to  how  thev  felt,  and  whether  thev  were  all 
alive,  and  then,  in  response  to  a  sign  by  the  white  men, 
they  prepared  to  make  a  fire  in  their  usual  way  by  rub- 
bing two  pieces  of  wood  together.  , 

But  the  pale-faces  laughed,  and  one  of  them,  seizing  a 
handful  of  dr}^  grass,  applied  a  flint  and  steel  to  it  and 
all  of  a  sudden  there  was  a  blaze.  Then  the  Indians 
died  ao^ain. 

Tile  white  man  now  gave  them  to  understand  bv  siyns 
that  they  desired  some  fish,  boiled,  and  the  Indians  pre- 
pared to  heat  stones  in  the  fire,  according  to  their  way 
of  boiling  by  putting  hot  stones  into  cedar  vessels,  filled 
with  water.  But  the  white  men  smiled  at  them,  and 
placing  an  iron  pot  over  the  fire,  began  cooking  in  their 
fashion.  The  Indians  had  never  seen  anvthing  like  this, 
and  thev  could  not  understand  whv  the  bottom  did  not 
burn  out  of  the  vessel,  and,  indeed,  so  great  was  their 


^1 


nl'^ 


i 


fill 


Hi 


m 


! 


I 


m 


M 


iii 


m 


i!^ 


»)  ♦ 


298 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


surj)rise    that    tliey   again  "died,"  as  is  explained  above. 

But,  after  the  fish  were  eaten,  Ib*^  white  men  put  in 
some  rice  to  cook.  By  and  by  it  began  to  swell,  and 
the  asto!iished  Indians  saw  it  rising  and  moving  about 
in  the  bubbling  water,  and,  thinking  it  was  something 
alive,  they  cried  in  disgust;  ''Maggots,  Maggots!"  But 
when  the  rice  had  been  properly  cooked,  the  white  men 
prepared  to  eat  it  by  pouring  molasses  over  it,  and  the 
natives  at  once  surmised  that  this  was  the  grease  of 
dead  people  and  refused  to  tai-te  it  when  it  was  handed 
to  them.  But,  when  they  saw  the  white  men  eating 
the  boiled  rice  and  apparently  rolisliing  it,  they  died 
again. 

Other  similar  thin<''3  occured,  which  in  the  consider- 
ation of  the  Indians  appeared  like  miracles,  and  when- 
ever another  wonder  was  worked  they  died.  Then 
came  the  time  for  the  white  men  to  die.  Tlie  Indians 
went  away  a  little  distance  and  when  hidden  from  sight, 
thev  put  on  their  paint  and  head-dress  and  besought  the 
great  Noh-Noh  to  as-^ist  them.  Returning  to  the  camp, 
they  walked  slowly  ai!  1  majestically,  with  firm  and 
steady,  step  and  head  0(^wed,  into  the  presence  of  the 
strangers,  but  when  they  raised  their  heads  and  the 
white  men  looked  into  their  wonderful  faces,  tliey  were 
surprised  beyond  measure,  and  they  also  died. 

As  traders,  the  Indians  have  always  impressed  me  as 
being  very  keen,  although  as  a  matter  of  course,  they 
never  received  the  real  value  for  their  goods.  But  as 
they  could  not  possibly  ascertain  how  much  their  furs 
were  worth  in  the  market  of  the  wldte  man,  the  question 
became  entirely  relative,  and  so  far  as  their  knowledge 
of  the  transaction  went,  they  were  often  particularly 
sharp.  One  incident  occurs  to  me  just  now,  which  will 
show  their  manner  of  calculating.      The   Hudson    Bay 


HUNTING    F(1R    (iOLD 


200 


Company  had  liired  a  nuinher  of  Indians  for  tlic  pur- 
]»oso  of  takint(  freii^lit  up  tlio  river  Skeena  in  their 
canoes.  The  party  was  in  diarge  of  u  wliitr  man,  and 
tlie  Indians  were  paid  so  nmeli  per  day,  everyone  who 
owned  a  canoe  receiving  double;  in  other  words,  a  canoe 
and ''a  man  counted-  the  same.  The  c()m[)any  supplied 
})art  of  their  provisions,  but  on  this  trip  they  nearly  ran 
out  of  stores;  for,  having  covered  only  one-half  of  the 
distance  to  be  traveled,  the  fresh jt  in  the  river  so  in- 
creased the  current  that  no  headway  could  be  made,  and 
the  whole  party  was  obliged  to  go  ashore  and  camp  for 
ten  days.  Gradually  as  provision,  became  scarcer, 
rations  were  reduced,  and  at  last  orders  were  given  that 
only  one  spoonfid  of  sugar  would  be  allowed  each  man 
per  meal.  The  Indians  are  very  fond  of  sugar,  and  in 
this  party  was  an  old  man.  who  had  a  particularly 
sweet  tooth.  He  was  the  owner  of  a  canoe,  and  he 
made  use  of  this  circumstance  to  help  himself  to  an  extra 
supply.  When  the  sugar  tin  was  passed  round,  he 
helped  himself  to  one  sxioonful,  "This  is  for  me,"  he 
said.  Then  taking  another  spoonful  he  remarked  dryly 
"And  here  is  for  the  ciiioe." 

Their  idea  of  justice  is  often  very  striking.  At  one 
time  some  voung  Indian  i^irls  in  a  mission  school  on  the 
river  Naas  brouiifht  the  charixe  auainst  a  young  man 
that  during  prayers  he  had  looked  at  them  through  his 
fingers  and  made  grimaces.  The  Indians  summoned 
the  accused  before  their  council;  and  severely  reprimanded 
him,  reminding  him  of  the  reverence  which  was  due  to 
the  occasion,  and  which  he  had  so  sadly  forgottei\. 
The  youth  admitted  the  otlense,  and  after  a  scorching 
lecture  was  fined  in  a  small  amount.  The  council  then 
called  the  young  girls  in  and  admonished  them,  saying 
that  if  they  had  kept  their  eyes  closed  and  attended  to 


V: 


i. 


! 


Mi 


i 


1'     ! 
if  M 


iV    \ 


:1: 


t\  "M' 


i  I 


300 


HTTNTINO    FOR    GOLD 


their  prayers,  tlioy"  would  iiotluave  noticed  tlie  indecorous 
action  of  tlie  younuj  man:  and  tliey  in  turn  were  fined  for 
their  alleij^ed  impropriety. 

The  Indians  have  a  or(3;it  dread  of  diseases.  Ilev.  E. 
A.  Green  informs  me  tliat  wlien  scarlet  fever  broke  out 
on  the  Naas,  in  '87,  for  the  first  time,  the  Indians  held 
a  council  to  discus  the  matter.  It  was  reported  among 
them  that  the  fever  had  been  sent  up  the  river  in  a  box^ 
and  was  being  served  out  among  them  as  a  punishment 
because  some  of  them  had  not  joined  the  mission,  and  it 
was  decided  to  nuirder  Mr.  Gi-een  and  his  familv.  Just 
then,  however,  the  fever  broke  out  in  the  Missionary's 
own  home,  and  they  at  once  saw  their  mistake,  and 
were  profuse  in  offering  their  sympathies  to  the  family. 
Mr,  Green  has  lived  amonof  the  Naas  River  Indians 
for  manv  vears,  and  done  nmch  nrood  work  amonuf  them. 
The  Reverend  ixentleman  holds  a  hio'h  opinion  of  tlie  na- 
tives,    characterizing    them    as    a    manly   people. 

But,  as  the  Indian  of  British  Colund)ia  has  advanced 
in  the  course  of  years,  so  has  t^at  splendid  countr}-  in- 
creased in  importance  as  the  explorers  laid  open  to  the 
world  at  large  the  rich  fields  it  contains,  where  prosj)erity 
may  be  reaped.  Foremost  among  these  explorers  stand 
the  pioneers  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  but  they  left 
mucli  undone,  which  was  not  accomplished  until  the 
Fraser  River  Gold-diuuintrs  were  discovered.  Then 
came  the  miner,  and  with  his  natural  lust  for  adventure, 
he  repeated  what  he  had  done  in  Cahfornia  years  ago, 
and  forced  open  highways  and  by-ways  that  had  never 
been  thought  of  before,  thus  taking  the  first  active  step 
in  the  general  and  final  development  of  a  magnificent 
country.  Let  all  who  took  a  hand  in  the  work  rejoice  ! 
Their  trials  were  great,  their  labors  hard  to  perform, 
but  the  result  will  prove  a  great  and  glorious  one. 


ADVKNTURES 


IN 


PANAMA, 


^11 


f 


ii 


I!     I 


1 


i 


h 


CHAl^TEK  I. 

Takinf2f  a  Rest — A  New  Friend — (^ueer  ConverHation — How  Vaii- 
Hiekles  Du^  Gold- My  (ireatest  C?haiu'e--Panaina  tlie  IMucc 
— Dt'imrture — ACuriouH  Old  (Utv — Difficult  iMountain  Trails 
— Down  With  Fever — Aii  Indian  (Iraveyard — l)ig<,nn<,'  For 
(Jold — Potterv  (ialorc — A  Curious  Whistle — »My  Collection 
Spoiled — Movin<,'  to  Other  Parts. 

In  tlic  fall  of  the  veur  1H74  I  was  staviiiu'  ii>  San 
Francisco,  taking  a  rest.  During  this  period  1  paid  fre- 
quent visits  to  my  brothers-in-law,  Artemis  and  Doug- 
las Davison,  who,  like  myself,  were  old  California  mi- 
ners, and  always  on  the  lookout  for  any  new  enterprise 
in  the  way  of  gold-hunting.  We  were  often  talking 
over  former  davs  and  wonderino;  to  ourselves  when  and 
where  the  next  excitement  would  break  out,  for,  al- 
though we  all  realized  that  we  were  not  "so  young  as 
we  used  to  he,"  we  were  all  in  good  health  and  full  ot 
vi<'or  eao:er  to  nluni'e  into  some  fresh  undertakinir  for 
the  !?ake  of  shiiiuiu:  ooKl. 

There  is  an  old  aday-e  which  savs:   "Once  bitten,  twice 

shy."     It    may    be  true  in    certain    respects,  I  have  nt) 

doubt,  but  in  regard  to  the  i)ioneer  miners  of  Cahforn  la, 

I  never  found  that  it  held  s^tjod,  on  the  contrarv,  defeat 

seemed  to  urgfe  them  on  to  new    ventures.     And  so   it 

happened  that  the  three  of  us  had  not  yet  given  up  our 

worship    of   the    golden    calf,  principally  because  it  had 

always  got  away    from  us,  after  we    had  caught  it,  and 

was  yet  roaming  at  large  in  some,  to  us,  unknown  place. 

If  the  opportunity,  however,  should  present  itself  to  run 

it  down  in  whatever  clime,  we  were   prepared  to   chase 

sns 


f 


>'r. 


■■■(  I  .'i 


f  ; 

li{t; 


ah 
r 

m 

.1; 


f'.'i 

! 


In 
li'' 


■EC 

f! 


ii 


i 


u  i 


il  ! 


1.  I 


II 


!  . 


. 


;}oi 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


the  Hyinltolical  hoviiie  initil  we  liud  punned  Iiiin,  and  like 
il  .s|)id(.'r  w<itc]iini»:  for  a  i\v  to  ^jet  into  liis  wel),  we  wore 
layini(  wait,  anxious  for  our  chance.  It  was  introchiced 
to  us  by  a  yGun«jf  jjfentleinan  l»y  tlie  name  of  A.  T.  Van- 
sickles  in  such  a  manner  that  it  fairly  took  us  old  miners 
aback  and  made  us  think  tliat  we  had  the  softest  ''snap" 
on  band,  ever  presented  tt)  anyone,  liunting  for  the  pre- 
cious metal. 

One  day  we  were  talking  to  our  new  friend,  Vansick- 
les,  when  he  told  us  something  about  Panama,  whence 
he  had  just  arrived.  "Gold,"  he  said  in  answer  to  an 
in()uiry.  "You  bet  there  is  gold;  why,  the  country  is 
full  of  it.  Hard  to  get  at,  you  say?  Not  a  })it  of  it. 
I  found  lots  of  it  and  can  get  as  nnich  more  as  I  care 
for. 

We  pricked  up  our  ears,  as  a  matter  of  course,  and 
began  to  talk  mining  to  him  right  away.  But  he  did 
not  know  a  rocker  from  a  pan,  nor  a  sluice  box  from  a 
diamond  drill,  and  we  commenced  to  think  he  had  merely 
been  having  a  joke  at  our  expense. 

"But  how  in  the  world  did  you  sret  the  gold?"  I 
asked. 

"Dug  it  out  of  the  graves  1"  he  said,  perfectly  uncon- 
cerned, speaking  as  if  it  was  an  every  day  occurence  in 
that  country  to  dig  gold  out  of  graves. 

I  must  confess  I  did  not  at  once  relish  the  idea  to  turn 
suddenly  from  the  honest  occupation  of  a  gold  digger,  to 
something  bordering  on  the  nefarious  trade  of  body 
snatching,  and  I  asked  him  to  explain  a  little  further, 
what  he  really  meant. 

"Well,"  he  said,  "I  learned  that  the  old  Indians  in 
their  days  used  to  bury  their  dead — that  is  the  wealthy 
ones — with  large  portions  of  the  treasure  they  possessed. 
I  was  told  furthermore  that   old   Spanish  adventurers 


th 


HUNTING    FOR    COLD 


806 


liael  opened  tlie  i;raves  of  Inea  cliief'H  and  luid  taken 
as  much  as  200  j)()unds  of  jjfoM  from  a  sinj^Ie  jj;rave,  and 
so  I  made  up  my  mind  that  I  couM  |)lay  the  same  name. 
ConstMjuently  1  made  friends  witli  an  Indian,  wiio 
jiointed  out  to  me  one  of  tlie  ohl  Inca  cemeteries  in  tlie 
Interioi',  and  siiowed  me  wljere  1  miiiiit  diu"  witli  some 
success.  My  j^uide  was  so  scared  of  the  possihle  advent 
of  tile  spirit  of  tlie  deceased  chief,  that  lie  <|uickly  made 
off,  l)Ut,  as  I  liad  no  fears  on  tiiat  score,  I  set  to  work 
with  a  spade  1  had  bought,  and  very  soon  found  that  I 
.  liad  struck  something.  I  was  fairly  dazzled,  when  I 
came  upon  gold  and  silver  bracelets  of  heavy  patterns, 
and  other  ornaments,  mingled  with  all  kinds  of  useful 
and  decorative  articles,  many  of  them  exceedingly  costly. 
I  felt  as  if  I  had  suddenly  entered  a  fairyland  of  wealth, 
and  hiding  as  much  of  the  precious  find  as  I  cared  to 
carry  away,  I  made  ott*  for  the  time  being,  and  upon 
arriving  at  the  nearest  town,  soon  realized  (juite  ;•.  hand- 
some sum,  on  what  I  had  brought  \vith  me.  Since  then 
I  have  done  a  jjood  deal  of  grave  digsjjing,  and  with  i<-ro- 
nounced  success,  and  on  the  last  grave  I  emptied,  I 
realized  about  a  thousand  dollars  for  a  couple  of  hours 
work. 

As  Mr.  Yansickles  finished  his  storv,  he  iiiiiilcd  a 
couple  of  twenties  in  his  pocket,  and  the  words  he  had 
spoken,  togetherwith  this  sound,  produced  an  effect  upon 
us,  as  though  we  had  been  listening  to  some  charmino- 
song,  accompanied  by  sweet  music.  Here  was  a  ])ropo- 
sition.  To  exchano-e  the  hard  rock  in  the  dark  tunnels 
for  the  easy  work  of  uncovering  dead  Indians,  and  in  a 
few  hours  enrich  ourselves  with  treasures  they  certainly 
had  no  more  use  for.  Artemis  was  no  less  struck  w^ith 
the  idea  than  I  was,  and  it  did  not  take  us  long  to  make 
up   our   minds,  that,  after   all,  Panama   was   the   place 


;  v:t| 


306 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


m    ' 


if  ^ 


■   -  ti-  H 


where  we  were  destined  to  make  our  fortune,  and  as  Mr. 
Vansickles  offered  to  ijfo  down  with  us,  we  made  the 
necessary  preparations  to  proceed  to  the  Isthnms  and 
make  the  big  haul  of  our  Hfe. 

It  was  but  the  matter  of  a  few  days  to  get  all  in  readi- 
ness, and  the  next  steamer  for  Panama  carried  all  three 
of  us  southward.  I  do  not  think  that  I  have  ever  felt 
so  elated  in  all  my  life,  as  I  felt  when  we  steamed  over 
the  waters  of  the  blue  Pacific.  The  waves,  as  they 
danced  about  the  bow  of  the  steamer  and  glimmered  in 
the  light  of  the  sun,  looked  like  so  nmch  golden  spray. 
The  sky,  as  it  reflected  the  setting  sun  in  the  far  horizon, 
appeared  like  one  mass  of  golden  banks.  Hope  itself 
glittered  like  gold  in  my  thoughts  and  dreams  alike,  and 
I  felt  more  certain  than  ever  that  at  last  the  hour  had 
come,  when  I  should  attain  that  reward  which  every 
gold  hunter  has  a  right  to  look  for.  We  had  money 
enouiijh  with  us  to  suffice  for  four  or  five  months:  we  had 
a  splendid  outfit,  conprising  everything  we  could  possibly 
have  need  for,  and  accompanied  by  a  man  who  had  dug 
the  gold  in  these  parts  before,  failure  seemed  impossible. 
We  did  not  think  for  a  moment  that  the  steamer,  which 
carried  us,  went  quickly  enough.  The  days  passed 
slowly,  and  the  nights  were  sleepless;  for  the  anticipation 
of  opr  cominor  fortune  rendered  us  nervous  and  lestless, 
and  when  we  came  to  the  end  of  our  voyage  and  stepped 
ashore  in  Panama,  we  were  greatly  pleased. 

I  cannot  pass  over  my  entrance  in  Panama  without 
briefly  mentioning  the  impression  I  received  of  this  an- 
cient town,  which  has  since  become  so  famous,  while  its 
name  has  cost  men  millions  of  dollars,  for  the  sake  of  en- 
riching a  few  unscrupulous  speculators,  who  have  now 
received  the  just  punishment  for  their  unsatiable  greed. 
The  city,  which  has,  or  had  then,  about  15,000  inhabitants, 


if 


]     ii! 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


307 


its 

eii- 

now 

eed. 

iits, 


is  of  very  old  Spanish  origin.  It  is  built  upon  almost 
level  ground,  and  the  site  of  it  is  located  on  a  nar'^ow 
peninsula,  extending  into  the  bay  of  Panama,  and  on  the 
extreme  eastern  point  of  this  peninsula  stood  the  walls 
of  the  old  citadel,  built  of  brick  and  faced  with  cut  stone. 
These  walls  were  used  as  a  promenado,  being  twenty- 
five  feet  wide  on  the  top.  They  were  from  thirty  to 
forty  feet  high  and  were  provided  with  seats,  and  not- 
withstanding their  age,  they  were  in  good  condition. 
The  view  from  here  was  very  pleasing,  and  embraced 
not  only  the  vast  blue  expanse  of  the  Pacific  with  the 
islands  in  the  foregound,  but  also  the  hills  and  forests 
of  the  country. 

The  streets  were  narrow,  winding  and  badly  paved, 
and  the  city  altogether  appeared  dirty  and  full  of  disa- 
irreeable  odors.  The  houses  had  never  more  than  three 
stories  and  were  provided  with  balconies,  projecting,  un- 
til they  almost  touched  one  another.  The  atmosphere 
was  damp,  hot  and  generally  disagreable,  and,  apart  from 
the  historical  interest.  I  could  find  nothinof  attractive 
about  the  little  city.  Tiie  old  fort  and  the  Cathedral 
are  the  only  buildings  of  any  interest,  and  as  an 
architectural  curiosity,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  the 
cupolas  of  the  two  towers  of  the  Cathedral  have  an 
edging  of  oyster  shells  by  way  of  ornament.  French 
and  English  Were  spoken  in  most  places,  and  the 
restaurants  were  frequently  conducted  by  either  Ameri- 
cans or  Frenchmen.  From  Panama  we  went  to  Chittrae, 
and  here  we  rested,  while  a  man  was  sent  ahead  to  La 
Mesa  for  horses,  to  take  us  up  into  the  mountains  for  a 
distance  of  about  120  miles,  and  as  soon  as  the  animals 
arrived,  we  started  out. 

The  horses  were  small,  altlioutjh  sturdv,  but  the  road 
was  like  the  rocky  road  to  Dublin — hard  to  travel.  '  The 


'  \ 


II 


ii.  ri- 


ll f  I 


V 

ii    ! 


V 


308 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


nature  in  these  regions  is  certainly  uni(|ue,  and  it  ini- 
pressed  us,  as  strani^ors,  with  its  wonderful  variety  ot 
scenery,  fauna  and  Mora.  I  believe  the  vegetation  em- 
bodies everything',  from  tropical  to  Alpine,  as  the  altitude 
rises  from  the  level  of  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic  to 
the  summits  of  the  Cordilleras,  which  rear,  so  to  speak, 
from  a  plateau  formed  by  other  mountains,  palms  grow 
here  in  i^reat  varieties.  From  some  of  them,  so-called 
palm  wine  is  extracted,  while  on  others  cocoanut  grows, 
but  many  of  them  are  very  beautiful  trees.  While  the 
soil  is  said  to  hide,  in  addition  to  gold  and  silver,  also 
platinum,  amathysts,  emerald,  copper,  lead  and  other 
valuable  products,  the  forests  supply  cinchona  and  log 
wood,  while  such  plants  as  Aloe  and  Sarsaparilla  are 
found. 

Amon<r  the  animals,  inhabitantini.*"  this  nature's  dru<>- 
store,  if  I  may  use  the  expression,  the  monkeys  are 
most  numerous.  They  are  as  a  rule  very  small,  but 
there  is  said  to  be  al)Out  twentv  varieties  of  them,  and 
they  would  sit  on  the  branches  of  the  trees,  and  th.ow 
twigs  or  fruit  at  us  as  we  passed  by.  There  are  various 
kinds  of  animals,  belonging  to  the  feline  race,  also  deer 
and  bears,  while  Alligators  swarm  in  the  rivers.  In  the 
U[)[)er  regions  of  the  forests  parrots  and  peroquets  vie 
with  cockatoes  in  making  the  most  noise,  and  over  them 
again  soar  the  condor;  cranes  wade  through  the  swamps; 
the  wild  turkey  hides  in  the  undergrowth;  and  the  beauti- 
ful pea  birds  display  their  rich  plumes.  There  are 
plenty  of  snakes  in  the  country,  and  the  boa  constrictor 
makes  his  home  ni  certain  places,  while  the  Yaruma  and 
Casabal  are  more  frequent.  In  the  valleys  are  excellent 
pastures,  and  nature  in  these  regions  is  wonderfully 
o'rand,  while    rusfged    mountains  of  phantastic  outline, 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


309 


aiul  rushing  streams,  add  to  tlie  effect,  produced  by  the 
animal  and  vegetable  hfe. 

It  was  no  easy  task  to  travel  through  the  forests  of 
Panama.  The  trail  was  often  dangerous  or  hard  to  find, 
and  the  mountain  streams  ran  witli  a  velocity,  which 
rendered  them  difficult  to  ford.  However,  we  pushed 
on  until  we  arrived  at  the  place  belonging  to  a  Don 
Juan  Barrio.  It  did  not  take  us  lonix  to  discover  that  the 
noble  Don  was  a  near  relative  of  our  guide,  in  fact  the 
home  of  the  latter  seemed  to  be  in  the  bosom  of  Bar- 
rio's famiiy,  and  it  was  evident  that  he  was  determined 
to  stay  here  for  a  few  days  before  proceeding  any  fur- 
ther. It  v^ould  not  have  been  of  much  avail  had  we  op- 
posed his  desire  in  this  direction,  for  we  had  not  been 
long  in  this  place,  ere  both  Mr.  Davison  and  myselt 
were  down  with  fever.  For  sev^eral  days  we  were  hors 
de  combat,  and  I  felt  so  bad  that  for  awhile  I  thought  the 
only  ii'rave  diiifii:in<jf  I  should  have  the  i)rivileiie  of  beinif 
concerned  in,  might  be  the  one  preceeding  my  own  fu- 
neral, and  I  wsis  not  at  all  cheered  at  the  prospect.  The 
complaint  was  evidently  a  malarial  one,  and  no  doubt 
had  its  cause  in  the  wretched  drinkinof  water  we  were 
treated  to  in  this  locality.  Meanwhile  our  host  was 
very  kind  to  us,  and  in  a  little  while  we  found  our- 
selves recoveiing,  and  as  soon  as  we  were  able,  we  set 
out  ao-ain  on  our  weird  mission.  It  was  more  stru^- 
gling  with  the  wilds  of  nature,  more  pelting  by  the  im- 
pudent monkeys,  and  a  continuous  anxiety  for  fear  our 
small  horses  would  not  be  able  to  carry  us  and  the  pack 
through,  but  I  nmst  give  them  credit  for  their  wonder- 
ful powers  of  endurance,  which  I  learned  in  time  to  ap- 
preciate. 

One  animal,  which  we  here  encountered  in  large  num- 
bers, I   nearly  forgot   to    mention,  although   indeed   it 


m 

1  <?i 


v:% 


310 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


i 


pi 


J'f! 


1 


i 

HI' 

'PI 
J' 


If!  K,i  '  II 


:n 


;(  i  1 


F 


.11:  ! 


played  quite  a  part  in  our  adventures — it  was  the  wild 
hog,  the  peecarico,  as  the  natives  call  it.  It  is  only  a 
small  animal,  but  very  ferocious,  and  especially,  when  it 
appears  in  hordes,  quite  unpleasant  to  meet.  It  will  at- 
tack a  man  with  its  sharp  teeth,  and  should  one  chance 
to  be  unarmed,  Mr.  Hog  can  make  things  quite  lively 
for  a  time.  In  such  cases  the  general  thing  is  to  climb 
a  tree  and  allow  the  enemv  to  a-et  tired  of  waiting  for 
one's  descension.  I  sat  in  a  tree  the  greater  part  of  one 
day,  looking  down  upon  my  pursuer,  who  evidently  had 
more  patience  than  I.  He  stayed  below,  resting  on  his 
haunches  with  his  head  turned  skyward,  one  eye  appa- 
rently asleep  and  the  other  every  now  and  again  blink- 
ing up  at  me,  to  see  how  I  was  getting  on.  At  last 
a  native  came  to  my  relief  and  speared  the  peecarico, 
which  settled  the  contest  in  favor  of  me.  I  was  begin- 
ning to  get  pretty  tired  of  being  a  tree  dweller,  and 
made  haste  to  get  down.  The  natives  are  very  skillful 
at  spearing  these  animals,  but  I  never  could  understand 
why  they  disrobe  themselves  of  their  nether  garment 
when  they  go  in  pursuit  of  them,  except  it  be  that  they 
Avould  rather  keep  their  trowsers  than  their  legs  intact. 
As  to  myself,  I  felt  as  if  I  would  prefer  wearing  six 
pairs  of  pants,  rather  than  none,  when  waging  war  upon 
the  wild  hoo-  of  Panama. 

At  last  we  arrived  at  a  place  where  our  guide  in- 
troduced us  to  an  Indian  graveyard.  We  were  told  that 
a  few  months  previous  somebody  had  dug  out  forty- 
p.even  pounds  of  gold  in  this  neighborhood,  and  sold  it 
in  Panama  for  fourteen  dollars  a  pound,  and  we  felt 
sure  that  there  must  be  many  graves  left  from  wliich 
other  treasures  might  be  unearthed.  I  admit  that  it 
was  with  a  singular  sense  of  anticipation  that  I  invaded 
this  ghastly  gold  field.     I  recalled  to  my  mind  a  dozen 


irmiiiiiKfirTiiini 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


311 


different  instance.^,  from  former  years,  when  I  had  ap- 
proaclied  a  place  where  gold  ^vas  supposed  to  be.  We 
had  judged  then  by  the  surrounding  nature;  the  geolog- 
ical condition  had  in  most  cases  fiven  us  some  kind  of 
assurance;  but  here  was  absolutely  nothing  to  go  by, 
save  a  little  mound,  and  in  some  cases  not  even  that, 
but  rather  a  slight  hollow  in  the  sfround.  Nevertheless 
it  was  not  material  where  we  duiX-  In  the  y-raves  of 
the  rich  we  might  expect  to  find  what  we  were  looking 
for,  in  those  of  the  poor  we  had  no  chance.  But  there 
was  nothing  to  indicate  the  one  from  the  other,  for 
these  dusky  heathens,  in  going  to  their  forefathers,  had 
not  provided  for  forty  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  carved 
st(Mie  piles,  so  as  to  denote  their  rank  and  keep  their 
bodies  safe  below  the  soil  at  the  same  time. 

Consequently  we  had  to  "go  it  blind,"  and  we  set  to 
work.  We  soon  came  to  the  conclusion,  that  our  de- 
[)arted  friend  had  taken  some  of  his  household  articles 
with  him,  for  we  dug  up  a  quantity  of  curious  looking 
pottery.  I  had  not  gone  to  Panama  for  the  purpose  of 
collecting  old  crockery,  or  set  up  a  curiosity  shop  on  my 
return  home,  and  I  was  therefore  not  wholly  satii^ficd 
with  my  find.  At  the  same  time  it  interested  me  to 
some  extent,  and  I  went  on  dii^fiijing,  but  to  mv  disii^ust 
our  success  was  limited  to  the  unearthing  of  pottery, 
until  it  appeared  to  me  that  all  the  old  earthenware 
vessels  of  ancient  Panama  must  have  been  dumped  in 
this  cemetery.  We  heaped  the  articles  up  at  one  place, 
and  ^Tadually  we  had  accumulated  enough  to  start  an 
ordinary  museum.  Grave  after  grave  was  broken  into, 
and  amidst  bones  and  skulls,  that  seemed  to  grin  at  us 
from  their  eyeless  .ockets,  we  drew  vessel  after  vessel, 
swelling  our  supply  of  ancient  ware. 

Suddenly  we  came  to  a  grave  in  which  the  pottery 


I 


,T 


ii.!! 


: 


RELIC   FROM   AN    INCA    GRAVE. 


If 


iH"; 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


313 


seemed  to  be  of  more  delicate  texture,  and  we  concluded 
that  jsome  chief  had  found  his  last  restin<j:  place  anioiiix 
these  pieces,  and  so  dug  on  with  renewed  hope,  expecting 
certainly  to  strike  some  of  his  silver  or  gold  })late.  But 
no  !  It  was  crockery,  and  remained  crockery,  l^ut 
among  it  we  found  one  curiosity,  the  like  of  which  I  had 
never  seen,  neither  before  nor  after.  It  was  a  whistle, 
made  to  represent  a  puma,  or  leopard.  The  tail  was  cut 
off  stumpy,  and  arranged  for  the  mouth-piece,  and  on 
each  side  were  three  holes.  The  instrument  was  a  very 
curious  contrivance,  and  so  inojeniouslv  arrantjed  as  to 
render  it  possible  to  play  sundry  different  tunes  upon  it. 
After  several  days,  spent  in  digging  up  pottery  and 
finding  nothing  else,  we  determined  to  try  other  regions. 
Meanwhile,  I  had  collected  the  best  samples  of  what 
we  had  found,  and  packed  them  in  a  basket,  intend- 
ing to  bring  it  back  to  California  with  me.  But  my 
intentions  were  thwarted  in  a  singular  manner.  In  a 
moment  of  misplaced  generosity  I  had  given  the  native, 
who  found  the  curious  whistle,  a  dime,  and  as  soon  as  he 
had  an  opportunity,  he  spent  the  money  on  grog. 
Whether  he  added  to  his  purchase  of  the  fiery  fiuid  by 
expending  his  own  money,  or  whether  he  could  really 
get  drunk  for  such  a  small  amount  (he  afterwards  in- 
sisted that  he  did)  I  cannot  tell,  but  he  came  back  to 
camp  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  which  prevented  him 
from  distinguishing  the  objects  around  him,  and  he  laid 
down  to  sleep  on  the  basket,  containing  my  precious 
pottery.  The  result  was  fatal  to  the  curios.  The 
native  came  out  intact,  but  not  one  piece  of  the  disinterred 
property  of  deceased  Indians  was  saved  from  a  devasta- 
tion, which  rendered  them  entirely  unfit  even  for  a  dime 
museum,  and  I  left  these  parts  heartily  sick  of  my  first 
experience  in  digging  for  gold  in  the  graves  of  the  Incas. 


11 


CHAPTER  11. 


,.,11 


')<      ! 


The  Chirique — AnoMier  Clraveyard — More  Pottery — David  City 
— The  Sbubei  Brothers — A  Native  Hog — Singular  Tombs — 
Above  the  Clouds — Abandoning  Grave  Digging — Looking 
for  Copper — A  Perfect  Hoodoo — Farewell  Panama — Bric-a- 
brac, 

Altliough  it  is  true  that  we  felt  greatly  disappointed 
at  the  poor  results  so  far  attained,  we  did  not  lose  cour- 
age, and  with  the  tenacity  and  perseverence,  which  I 
think  is  characteristic  of  the  pioneer  miners  of  Califor- 
nia, we  determined  to  give  other  localities  a  trial  before 
giving  up  the  venture,  and  so  pushed  eastward,  towards 
Costa  Ivica,  in  hopes  of  meeting  with  better  success. 
On  the  5th  of  April  1875  we  arrived  at  the  Chirique 
,  and  prepared  to  cross  it.  The  waters  came  down  with 
much  force,  for  we  were  experiencing  a  rainy  seaso  % 
and  had  endured  a  good  deal  of  hardship  on  our  journey, 
in  this  way;  moreover,  the  river  was  very  deep  in  some 
places,  and  when  we  attempted  to  cross  it,  reached  to 
our  shoulders.  We  all  linked  hands,  and  in  this  man- 
ner, succeeded  in  crossing  without  any  accident.  It  is 
strange  that  directly  on  the  opposite  side  of  this  river, 
the  territory  is  called  Costa  Rica,  although  the  bound- 
arv  of  the  State  of  Panama  does  not  occur  till  further 
east 

Our  journey,  so  far,  had  been  impeded  by  numerous 
difficulties,  more  especially  afforded  by  the  thick  under- 
brush, through  which  we  had  often  been  compelled  to 
cut  our  way;  but  we  now  expected  to  get  along  much 
more  easily.     We  soon  came  upon  a  camp   which  had 

314 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


315 


been  built  by  cattlemen.  It  was  of  singular  construoticMi 
and  covered  with  palm  leaves,  servin^r  well  enouL,di  as  a 
shelter  against  the  sun,  but  forming  a  poor  protection  in 
the  rainy  weather.  As  there  was  a  plantation  patch 
near  by,  we  concluded  to  camp  here  and  rest,  and  we 
made  a  good  fire  and  placed  one  of  the  natives  on  guard 
to  keep  the  peccaricos  away.  These  little  animals  were 
very  daring  here,  and  hung  round  the  camp  like  a  pack 
of  wolves.  Our  friends,  the  monkeys,  were  also  very 
numerous  in  this  locality,  and  every  now  and  again  one 
of  us  would  be  hit  by  something,  thrown  at  us  by  these 
mischievous  brutes,  whom  Darwin  flattered  by  calling 
them  the  progenitors  of  the  human  race.  I  have  seen 
the  human  race  in  many  varieties,  and  all  through  my 
stay  in  Panama  1  lived  in  daily  exchange  of  missiles 
with  monkeys,  and  I  consider  it  a  consolation  that  in 
Mr.  Darwin's  theorv  there  is  a  missing  link,  which  can- 
not  be  found. 

The  trees  around  our  camp  were  covered  with  moss 
to  a  remarkable  degree.  It  enveloped  them  like  a  thick 
mantle,  from  the  tc^p  down  to  the  very  roots,  and 
the  effect  was  exceedingly  striking.  Here,  also,  we  saw 
a  great  many  wild  turkeys,  the  so-called  ''Royal  Tur- 
key." It  is  a  very  pretty  bird,  and  affords  an  excellent 
meal,  but  the  natives  will  not  kill  it  on  account  of  some 
superstition. 

I  tried  to  prospect  several  creeks  in  this  neighborhood, 
but  with  no  success.  The  appearance  indicated  gold, 
but  my  experience  would  not  bear  it  out,  and  I  began 
to  wonder  whether  all  the  mineral  wealth  attributed  to 
this  country,  is  confined  to  the  graves,  in  which  so  far, 
I  had  not  found  it.  Shortly  after  leaving  this  camp 
we  came  upon  large  droves  of  cattle,  which  were  being 
driven  towards  the  coast  to  be  sold  in  the  market.     The 


:  I 


316 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


ir: 


I         0 


drovers,  or  cow-boys,  looked  very  picturesque,  wearininr 
large  sombreros  and  mounted,  Spanish  fashion,  with  all 
tlie  display  characteristic  of  their  race. 

At  last  we  came  upon  another  graveyard,  and  with 
renewed  hopes  we  entered  upon  an  examination  of  the 
burial  place.  Again  pottery  and  nothing  but  pottery. 
It  seemed  to  me  as  if  all  the  pots,  vases,  vessels  and 
everything  else,  made  out  of  clay,  had  been  heaped  to- 
gether here,  and  as  if  the  deceased  chiefs  Imd  measured 
their  wealth  by  the  earthenware  in  their  possession. 
There  was,  however,  one  curious  feature  about  these 
graves,  which  rendered  them  more  interesting  than 
any  we  had  hitherto  seen.  They  had  been  constructed 
on  the  principle  of  tombs,  and  were  enclosed  With  thin 
slabs  of  whitish  spar,  from  two  and  one-half  to  three 
inches  thick.  I  examined  this  material,  and  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  it  would  do  first  rate  for  building 
purposes.  I  found  it  very  remarkable  that  in  all  this 
neighborhood  there  was  not  a  (juarry  to  be  seen,  and  it 
made  me  think  that  the  stone,  used  in  these  tombs,  had 
been  brought  from  a  considerable  distance;  but  these 
graves  contained  neither  silver  nor  gold,  and  it  began  to 
dawn  upon  nie  that  our  trip  to  Panama  was  as  much  of 
a  wild-goose  chase,  as,  in  days  gone  by,  the  search  for 
the  Gold  Lake  had  been. 

We  traveled  by  way  of  David  City  and  here  rested 
for  a  few  days,  putting  up  at  the  house  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Agnew.  Mr.  John  Shuber,  a  prominent  Panama  cat- 
tle dealer,  was  staying  here,  and  he  aiid  his  brother 
Henry,  owning  certain  claims  on  the  Atlantic  Slope, 
where  there  was  supposed  to  be  copper,  I  entered  into 
an  arrangement  with  them  to  prospect  the  locality,  and 
of  this  undertaking  I  will  speak  later  on.  We  enjoyed 
the  utmost  hospitality  during  our  stay  here.     The  city 


I.    ! 


HUNTING    FOR   COLD 


317 


of  David  is  located  on  a  plaiti  ahcmt  thirty-fivo  miles 
wcist  of  the  volcano,  known  as  Mt.  Chn'i<|Uo.  and  its  in- 
liahitants  are  niostlv  enLjaiifd  in  stock-niisinijf  and  coHee 
culture. 

Not  tar  from  this  citv  we  visited  one  of  the  o'reatest 
natural  wonders  I  have  ever  seen.  It  was  a  hui^e  cave 
situated  in  a  limestone  formation.  We  entered  it  with 
biazinir  torches  to  liixht  our  wav,  and  the  effect  was 
truly  mut^ic.  The  stalactites  and  stalagmites  pointed 
their  long  thin  fingers  at  one  another  from  above  and 
below;  the  walls  glistened  with  spar,  and  the  bats  flew 
like  phantom  birds  into  the  farthest  darkness,  as  the 
glare  from  the  torches  partly  lighted  up  the  uncanny 
scene,  leavino-  dense  tjloom  like  a  circle  bevond  the 
periphery  of  their  reach.  The  cave  was  probably  sixty 
feet  high  at  its  lowest  point,  increasing  toward  the  back. 
The  air  within  was  oppressive,  and  the  whole  situation 
affected  our  senses  in  a  disagreeable  manner,  althouijh  it 
roused  our  wonder,  and  I  felt  relieved  upon  once  more 
breathinsj:  the  fresh  air  and  having:  the  sunliixht  fall  uiion 
me  again.  One  thing,  less  pleasant  to  contemplate  when 
we  issued  from  the  wonderful  cave,  was  the  appearance 
of  fresh  tiger-tracks,  but  we  never,  saw  the  animal, 
which  had  left,  and  continued  our  way  without  any 
further  adventure. 

Again  we  camped  on  the  banks  of  the  Chirique. 
While  here  I  saw  a  native  woman  carrvino;  a  wild  ho*'- 
on  her  back.  She  had  evidently  speared  the  aninial,  for 
she  held  the  weapon  in  her  hand.  The  flesh  of  this 
animal  is  very  savory,  not  unlike  our  tame  pig  but  has 
an  additional  flavor,  which  is  particularly  pleasant.  I 
was  amazed  to  see  this  woman  thus  burdened,  for  al- 
though the  peccary  is  not  so  large  as  the  one  that  goes 
in  as  pig  at  one  end    of  Armour's    establishment,  and 


;nH 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


V-yvA 


\i  -.! 


!>■    1 


HIM 


iii" 


*'■ 


(i 


eonies  out  as  pork  at  thi^  other  end,  still  it  is  u  heavy 
weiL^ht  to  carry.  I  eii^aufed  in  conversation  with  this 
woman.  She  told  me,  amoriLj  other  thinL^s,  that  she 
had  been  eiujfaijfed  in  dii^ijjint;  ydd  out  of  Indian  «;rave8, 
and  exhihited  a  small  piece  which  I  bought  of  her  for 
six  soft  dollars,  meaning  dollars  worth  eighty  cents 
apiece.  All  along  here  the  natives  told  the  most  har- 
rowing tales  of  Spanish  cruelty,  as  practiced  in  the  early 
daysuj)on  the  aborigines.  I  listened  to  accounts  of  whole 
families  who  chose  self-destruction  rather  than  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  invaders,  and  if  the  tales  related 
to  me  were  only  half  true,  the  revolting  treatment  to 
which  the  early  settlers  subjected  the  native  sons  of  the 
soil,  is  almost  unparalleled  in  the  history  of  the  world, 
and  on  a  par  with  any  torture  practiced  upon  early 
Christian  martyrs. 

Once  more  we  t/ied  gold-hunting  in  graveyards,  but 
with  the  same  result  as  previously.  Pottery,  again; 
pottery  forever;  nothing  but  pottery,  until  we  became 
so  disgusted  that  I  believe  if  a  stranger  had  come  up 
and  said  "Indian  graves"  to  us,  we  would  have  laid  him 
alongside  some  of  the  ancient  pottery,  considering  our- 
selves justified  in  so  doing,  on  the  ground  of  gross  pi'ov- 
ocation. 

Before  disposing  of  the  subject  of  Indian  graves,  how- 
ever, let  me  say  that  in  many  parts  of  South  America, 
very  valuable  ornaments  have  been  found  in  Itica  grave- 
yards. Probably  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  these 
finds  is  at  present  in  the  possession  of  a  Mr.  Thorndike, 
of  Lima,  and  consists  of  a  pure,  solid  silver  bust  of  a 
male  beinsr  eioht  inches  in  higrht,  and  weighing  about 
eleven  pounds.  Mr.  Frank  A'incent,  the  well-known 
traveler,  says  of  this  wonderful  relic:  "The  head  is  de- 
cidedly Homeric  in  aspect,  but  wears  a  sort   of  Persian 


HUNTING    FOR    (iOLU 


810 


cap,  .surrouiulcd  hy  a  larj^^o,  ratliatiii"^  sun.  The  niouUl- 
iiij^  and  carvin<jf  of  the  .sun  in  sueli  a  position,  would  ap- 
pear to  indicate  a  Persian  origin,  and  tlius,  again  sup- 
port tlie  theory  of  trans-PaeiHe  migration."  I  think 
tiiese  remarks  are  very  suggestive  and  full  of  interest. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  many  valuable  anti((uities, 
outside  of  pottery,  have  been  buried  in  these  tombs,  and 
may,  in  due  course  of  time,  in  the  hands  of  ingenious  in- 
terpreters, serve  as  an  explanation  of  some  of  the  mys- 
teries that  at  present  meet  our  retrospective  glance,  as 
we  try  to  penetrate  the  past.  1  am  informed  that  at 
Molendo,  a  limited  liability  company  has  of  late  years 
been  organized,  with  a  capital  of  $50,000.  It  bears  tlie 
singular  name  of  the  "Anonymous  Company  for  Explo- 
ration of  the  Inca  Sepulchres,"  and  has  for  its  object  the 
search  for  antiquities  and  valuables,  in  the  old  burial 
grounds  in  the  district  of  Cuzco,  the  government  having 
granted  a  concession  to  the  company  for  this  })Urpose. 
To  all  those  who  may  have  any  intention  of  taking 
stock  in  this  somewhat  remarkable  company,  I  give  here 
my  own  personal  experience  in  digging  for  gold  in  In- 
dian graves,  that  they  may  consider  well,  ere  they  em- 
bark in  an  undertaking  which  has,  on  the  other  hand, 
been  crowned  with  such  success  as  that  attained  by  Mr. 
Thorndike. 

I  was  now  thoroughly  disgusted  with  my  efTorts  to 
find  gold  in  Panama,  and  determined  to  give  it  up,  and 
at  once  attended  to  Mr.  Shubert's  business.  The  mines 
he  wanted  me  to  prospect,  were  situated  on  the  other 
side  of  the  range,  and  we  therefore  made  for  the  sum- 
mit, so  as  to  reach  the  Atlantic  slope.  Our  j.ourney  was 
a  very  difficult  one.  The  rain  was  coming  down  in  tor- 
rents, and  not  till  we  arrived  above  the  cloud-belt  did  we 
experience  any  sunny  weather.     There,    on   the  tops  of 


,:;'!!ir-"^ 


>  I 


I 


1 

I 

r 

f 

1,4     ! 

j           j 

1 

i  f 
i 

'.  1 

ii 

k.«iil«ii! 

320 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


the  Cordilleras,  pretending  to  put  one  leg  on  the  Atlan- 
tic, and  the  other  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the  mountain 
ridge,  I  made  a  speech  to  my  conn)anions  for  the  pur- 
pose of  enlivening  the  somewhat  dreary  situation.  I  re- 
minded my  audience  of  the  Spanish  heroes,  whose  per- 
severence  in  days  of  old,  had  first  guided  them  to  these 
mountain  tops,  and  then  pointed  out  how  Anglo-Saxon 
energy  was  in  no  way  behind  that  of  the  Spaniards,  and 
how,  through  Americans,  it  had  led  us  on  to  unqualified 
success  throughout  the  known  world,  excepting,  of 
course,  when  it  came  to  extractinij  lifold  from  Indian 
graves.  Then  I  gave  three  cheers  for  California,  after 
all,  the  only  genuine  El  Dorado,  and  we  started  away 
from  the  cheering;  surroundinacs  of  sun-lit  mountain 
scenes  into  the  clammv  reoion  of  mist  and  rain,  towards 
the  borders  of  the  Atlantic. 

The  trail  was  bad  and  dangerous,  and  we  sufiered  con- 
siderably on  our  journey,  but  we  pushed  on  with  una- 
bated vigor,  hoping  that  we  njight  achieve  in  copper, 
the  success  we  had  failed  to  find  in  gold.  All  alono'  I 
examined  carefully  the  fcmation  over  which  we  were 
travelino-,  for  I  had  been  told  that  we  mis^lit  find  traces 
of  lead  and  copper  throughout  the  whole  distance,  from 
the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  but  I  failed  entirelv  to  bene- 
fit  by  the  tips  given  me  in  this  direction,  and  could  find 
no  indication  of  the  metal  I  was  in  search  of 
'  At  Horcansists  I  was  joined  by  Mr.  Santiago  Ho- 
venue,  whom  I  found  a  most  pleasant  companion.  He 
was  an  exceedingly  gentlemanly  man,  and  gifted  with 
rare  conversational  powers  and  general  knowledge,  which 
rendered  him  very  interesting,  and  his  presence  did 
much  towards  alleviating  the  hardships  of  the  trip.  The 
location  which  we  had  to  examine,  is  situated  about 
sixty  miles  from  Horcansists.      We  camped  in  the  can- 


ol 


ter 


in 


lo- 


ith 


lul 
'he 

)Ut 


M 


a 


1 


; 


IM 


322 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


yon  known  as  Aliares  Reo,  and  paid  a  visit  to  Mr.  Rills' 
trading  station,  some  fifteen  miles  further  on. 

Arrived  at  our  destination,  we  found  that  a  tunnel 
had  been  started  into  the  hill  about  fifty  feet  above  the 
creek  that  runs  through  these  parts.  This  tunnel  was 
cut  into  the  rock  about  twenty-five  feet,  and  ran  in  upon 
a  reddish  brown  slate  lying  horizontally.  Along  the 
face  of  the  hill  outside  of  the  tunnel  a  slate  formation 
appeared,  running  at  right  angles  with  the  tunnel,  and 
in  this  formation  I  found  small  seams  of  crystalized 
(juartz.  It  was  here  that  the  virgin  copper  was  found, 
and  I  was  told  that  when  first  discovered,  the  metal 
lay  in  large  lumps  just  above  where  the  mouth  of  the 
tunnel  was  situated. 

But  that  was  the  last  seen  of  the  copper  in  any  appre- 
ciable quantity.  I  worked  into  the  seams,  but  could  not 
find  much  of  anything.  They  became  narrower,  until 
they  ran  out  altogether.  The  hill  had  the  appearance 
of  a  drive,  as  the  rock  did  not  lie  in  a  regular  position, 
such  as  is  generally  the  case  when  true  leads  of  mineral 
are  found.  I  made  a  careful  examination  of  the  seams, 
but  could  find  only  faint  traces  of  the  mineral,  and  not 
even, a  good  specimen,  where  the  copper  was  first  dis- 
covered. I  must  sav,  that  the  more  I  saw  of  this  olace, 
the  more  I  was  at  a  loss  to  understand  what  the  people, 
who  drove  the  tunnel,  were  thinking  of  when  they  did 
all  this  work;  for  there  was  nothing  whatever,  that  I 
could  find,  to  warrant  the  expenditure  of  any  such  engi- 


neermg. 


I  followed  the  ledge  up  the  canyon,  and  found  slight 
traces  of  copper  in  various  places,  but  nothing  like  a 
lode.  There  was  no  appearance  of  carbonate  of  copi)er, 
but  here  and  there  were  stains  along  the  ledge,  just 
enough  to    indicate   that   we    were  in  a  copper  country, 


HUNTING   FOR    GOLD 


323 


but  not  by  any  means  enough  to  justify  any  outlay  of 
money  for  the  purpose  of  speculation,  and  I  can  safely 
say  that  I  did  not  see,  during  my  journeying  up  and 
down  on  the  Atlantic  slope,  one  bucket-ful  of  copper. 
In  this  same  section  of  the  country  I  made  an  examina- 
tion of  a  ledge  of  cinnabar,  which  had  been  described  to 
me  as  exceedingly  rich,  but  again  I  failed  to  find  any- 
thing" worth  working*.  The  soil  here  consisted  of  brown- 
ish  clay  with  red  patches,  but  if  there  really  was  cinna- 
bar to  be  found,  it  was  in  such  small  quantities,  that  it 
would  not  pay  to  work  it. 

Altogether,  it  would  have  cost  considerable  money  to 
undertake  any  mining  in  these  parts.  The  places  I  was 
directed  to  examine  were  only  accessible  over  almost 
impassable  trails,  and  the  dense  undergrowth  on  the 
hillsides  rendered  even  the  task  of  prospecting  particu- 
larly difficult.  Closa  Canyon  was  the  name  of  the  place 
where  the  Shuber  brothers  more  especially  expected  to 
find  successful  mining,  but  I  failed  to  meet  with  any- 
thing'  which  would  jjive  the  least  encourag-ement,  or  war- 
rant  my  writing  a  report  advising  operations  for  the 
purpose  of  opening  mines  in  this  section. 

Strange  to  say,  while  I  was  in  these  parts,  a  native 
chief,  by  the  name  of  Ruez,  came  to  me  and  told  me 
that  he  would  show  us  a  place  where  we  could  take  out 
plenty  of  gold.  By  this  time  my  reader  knows  me  well 
enough  to  know  also  that  such  a  thing  merely  had  to  be 
whispered  in  my  ear  to  cause  me  to  start  in  search  of  the 
promised  fortune.  I  persuaded  Mr.  Hovenne  to  come 
with  me,  and  accompanied  by  two  natives,  we  set  out  on 
a  new  venture.  But  Luck  and  I,  did  not  go  to  Panama 
together,  and  after  having  traveled  in  the  rain,  and 
slept  on  the  damp  ground  for  several  nights  in  wretched 
camps,  we  arrived  at  the  place  pointed  out  to  us,  only 


( ■ 


""  1 


324 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


to  find  that  once  more  we  had  been  on  a  fool's  errand. 

I  now  prepared  a  report  for  the  benefit  of  Messrs. 
John  and  Henry  Shuber.  I  much  regretted  tliat  I 
could  not  write  an  encouraging  report,  but  conscience 
prompted  me  to  advise  them  to  aband(Mi  all  idea  of  work- 
ing these  su})posed  mines.  It  appeared  to  me  that 
there  had  been  a  hoodoo  over  my  whole  expedition  to 
Panama,  and  no  previous  experience  had  so  disgusted 
me  as  my  visit  to  this,  the  mof-t  famous  of  Columbia's 
United  States.  It  must  not  be  inferred  from  this  that 
the  metals  I  went  in  search  of,  do  not  exist  on  tlie 
Isthmus.  Undoubtedly  they  do,  but  somehow  I  did 
not  happen  to  come  their  way.  Columbia,  and  for  that 
matter  the  greater  part  of  South  America,  is  one  of  the 
favored  quarters  of  the  globe,  and  I  have  already 
mentioned  the  many  products,  minerals  and  precious 
stones  which  may  be  found  there.  But  even  up  to  the 
present  day  the  country  has  been,  comparatively,  but 
little  worked.  The  Spaniards  are  not  the  ones  to 
develop  its  natural  wealth,  and  the  North  Americans, 
or  I  would  rather  say  the  Anglo-Saxons,  are  so  far 
scarce  there.  Moreover  the  climate  is  not  conijenial  to 
the  latter;  malarial  complaints  often  break  out,  and  now 
and  again  the  yellow  Jack  is  experienced  with  a  death 
rate  as  high  as  150  in  1,000.  Had  the  Canal  been 
realized,  no  doubt  this  country  would  have  benefited  by 
it,  or  rather  others  would  have  had  an  opportunity  to 
take  advantage  of  its  resources,  but  since  the  great  dis- 
aster which  overtook  that  undertaking,  I  should  say 
that  many  years  will  elapse  ere  Panama  will  afford  any 
other  interest  to  the  rest  of  the  world,  than  the  line  of  rail 
possesses,  which  carries  the  traveler  from  Aspinwall  to 
Panama. 

I  was  favorably  impressed  with  the  Spanish  element 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


3-25 


of  the  population  in  this  country.  They  were  exeeed- 
ini^ly  courteous,  and  would  go  to  niucli  trouble  to 
accommodate  a  stranger.  But  they  were  great  gamblers, 
and  the  gambling  houses  in  the  city  of  Panama  were 
numerous.  The  favorite  games  were  roulette,  and  that 
other  game  of  hazard,  which  a  few  years  ago  set  the 
tonorues  of  the  "ossip  ** a-wasfiifino: "  in  aristocratic  En*»- 
land.  When  I  first  saw  baccarat  played,  there  was  no 
historical  interest  attached  to  the  iiame — it  was  as  ord- 
inary  as  draw-poker,  or  seven-up,  is  today,  and  I  do  not 
believe  any  heavy  sums  were  staked  upon  it.  The 
dancing  of  the  Spanish  Fandango  afforded  me  much 
amusement,  as  a  spectator  in  the  dance  houses.  The 
attitudes  assumed  by  the  dancers,  and  the  contortions 
gone  through  by  them,  were  very  ridiculous  to  behold. 
I  was  now  glad  to  turn  my  back  upon  Panama,  which 
to  me  had  been  a  land  of  continued  disap})ointments. 
I  had  wasted  six  months  of  time  and  spent  at  least  six 
hundeed  dollars,  in* a  vain  endeavor  to  find  something 
worth  my  time  and  trouble,  and  all  I  had  to  show  for  it 
was  a  few  pieces  of  pottery,  which  now  help  to  make 
up  the  bric-a-brac  on  the  What-not  of  a  friend,  being 
the  only  trophies,  brought  home  by  a  Forty-niner,  who 
went  abroad  to  worship  at  the  shrine  of  Dame  fortune. 


r  I'll 


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J.;/ 1 


I 


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1^ 


A    TRIP 


TO 


ALASKA. 


3 


327 


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CHAPTER   I. 


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Off  for  Alaska — Review  of  the  History  of  the  Country — Russian, 
American  and  English  Influences — The  Tolstois  and  the 
Asters — A  "Wonderful  Region — First  Impression  of  Scenery 
— Quoting  Kate  Field — Mountains  and  Glaciers — Lieutenant 
Schwatska's  Surveys — A  Phantom  City. 

I  went  to  Alaska  solely  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
a  cursory  glance  of  this  wonderful  country.  I  had  no 
idea  of  staying  there  for  any  length  of  time,  merely 
desiriui;  to  visit  some  of  the  localities,  where  orold  was 
said  to  exist  in  sufficient  quantity  to  induce  men  to  go  in 
search  of  it.  But,  brief  as  my  visit  was  to  that  northern 
province,  I  am  anxious  to  add  a  few  remarks  to  the 
many,  which  have  already  been  published  in  regard  to 
one  of  the  most  interesting  quarters  of  the  globe. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  in  May,  1867,  the  United 
States  paid  Russia  the  sum  of  3~, -00,000  for  the 
territory  of  Alaska,  which  in  area  is  about  one-sixth  of 
the  size  of  the  States,  and  probably  money  was  never 
better  expended  than  on  this  occasion,  when  we  secured 
a  province,  abounding  in  natural  resources  A)  an  extra- 
ordinary degree.  The  Russians  were  the  first  to  recog- 
nize the  worth  of  Alaska.  As  early  as  1G46  they  had 
pushed  their  explorations  eastward  in  Siberia  as  ftir  as 
the  Koly'ma  River,  and,  eager  for  trade  rather  than  for 
discovery,  they  attempted  the  first  voyage  east  of  the 
Koly'ma,  thus  finding  a  narrow  channel  between  the 
grounded  ice  and  the  shore.  They  landed  in  a  small 
bay,  where  they  met  with  a  number  of  Chirkchees,  from 
whom  they  obtained  a    quantity  of  walrus  ivory,  thus 

329 


4: 


»l    i' 


380 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


i; 


"\    !; 


Hi  i 


J     ,r  i!:.,. 


establishinj^  the  first  trade  with  the  natives.  From  that 
day  to  the  present  the  deveh)pnient  of  Alaska  has  con- 
tinued incessantly.  Discoveries  of  great  resources  fol- 
lowed one  upon  the  other.  The  merchant  found  an  in- 
exhaustable  field  for  operations  in  various  markets.' 
When  in  1741  Bering  made  his  discoveries  in  the 
northern  waters,  an  additional  impetus  was  given  to 
trade  in  those  regions,  and  the  darins:  naviijator  little 
foresaw  the  seemingly  endless  troubles,  which  his  under- 
taking should  bring  about,  and  which  are  today  so 
prominently  before  the  world.  It  was  more  particularly 
the  furs  and  skins  that  then  attracted  the  trader,  but 
afterwards  the  fisheries  became  of  world-wide  importance; 
then  the  presence  of  costly  metals  was  discovered.  In 
addition  to  all  this,  the  Alaska  of  today  is  a  place,  where 
the  tourist  and  the  scientist,  alike,  may  go  into  ecstacies 
over  wonderful  scenery  or  the  discovery  of  natural 
phenomena,  which  seem  to  connect  the  remote  antiquity 
with  the  present  day  and  explain  some  of  the  mysteries 
that  meet  us  in  the  consideration  of  our  own  innnediate 
surroundings.  As  yet  Alaska  is  but  little  explored. 
The  coast  is  the  only  part  that  is  well  known  with  the 
exception  of  some  few  inland  places,  more  especially  on 
the  rivers.  But  there  are  vast  territories  in  the  interior, 
where  proljably  no  human  foot  has  ever  trod,  and  in 
that  mysterious  wilderness  we  may  still  expect  to  meet 
with  wonders,  which  shall  puzzle  our  imagination  and 
surprise  our  senses.  It  has  been  asserted  that  there  the 
giant  mastodon  still  roams,  and  who  knows  what  their 
wondrous  animals,  which  we  have  believed  to  be  extinct, 
may  still  be  found,  when  this  terra  incognits  shall  be 
properly  traversed. 

These  nations   used  their   best   energies   to   develop 
Alaska,  although   up  till  '67  Russia  was  the  only  one 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


331 


that  (lid  so  as  a  national  enterprise,  the  others  bein*;  in 
the  field  as  private  speculators.  It  is  interesting  to 
notice,  that  while  today  Count  Leo  Tolstoi  exercises  a 
remarkable  '  iHuence  in  the  matter  of  social  problems, 
one  of  his  ancestors,  Andrean  Tolstoi,  in  1700,  fitted  out 
a  vessel,  called  the  "Andrean  and  Nathalen, '  which  in 
command  of  Maxim  Lazeroff  sailed  from  Kamschatka 
and  wintered  on  Bering  Island.  Lazeroff  explored  the 
islands,  which  have  since  been  called  the  Andrcanoffsky 
Group,  but  it  is  to  bo  regretted  that  the  cruel  treatmetit, 
to  which  his  men  subjected  the  natives,  had  much  to  do 
with  the  revolting  attrocities  practiced  afterwards  by  the 
aborigines  in  retaliation  of  the  conduct  of  the  Europeans. 
Twenty  years  before  this  the  first  student  of  science 
visited  these  regions.  It  was  the  naturalist  Louis  de  la 
Croyere,  who  went  with  ChirikofT  in  the  St.  Paul  at 
the  same  time  as  Berino-  and  Steller  in  the  St.  Peter 
sailed  from  Avatcha  in  search  of  the  American  coast, 
and  the  man  of  science  paid  for  his  venture  with  his  own 
life. 

But  Tolstoi  is  by  no  means  the  only  literary  man  of 
the  present  day  descending  from  one  who  helped  to  de- 
velop Alaska.  America  threw  her  enterprise  into  the 
matter,  and  the  grandfather  of  the  brilliant  editor  of  the 
Pall  Mall  Magazine,  Mr.  William  Waldorf  Astor,  was 
the  man  who  first  brought  about  a  business  relation  be- 
tween  this  country  and  Alaska.  In  1810,  the  late  John 
Jacob  Astor  formed  an  association  in  New  York  under 
the  name  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  but  already  the 
previous  year,  he  had  fitted  out  and  dispatched  the  ship, 
Enterprise,  which,  in  command  of  Captain  Ebbets,  ar- 
rived in  Sitka  in  July  1810.  The  following  year  Mr. 
Astor  dispatched  the  second  detachment  of  traders  under 
William  P.  Hunt,  and  the  trading  station   of  Astoria 


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HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


was  establislied.  The  so-called  Russiau-Ainorican  Com- 
pany was  then  pushiiio;  trade  in  Alaska  to  the  best  of 
their  al)ility,  hut  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Astor's  force  yrawi 
anew  impetus  to  husiness.  In  October,  181  1,  he  made 
an  ai^reement  with  the  Company,  accordini^  to  which  he 
pledjj^ed  himself  to  furnisli  provisions  at  fixed  prices  and 
to  take  pay  in  furs  from  the  company.  They  were  to 
mutually  protect  each  other  a<^ainst  snuio;«rlers  ond  re- 
spect  each  other's  liuntinLi'  sjfround.  Astor  was  to  take 
the  Company's  furs  to  Canton  and  sell  them  on  com- 
mission, and  both  aj^reed  not  to  sell  any  liquors  to  the 
natives;  but  this  arrangement  was  broken  \ip  by  the 
subsequent  war  between  Ens^dand  and  the  United 
States.  It  is  of  interest  to  notice  that  the  aijreement 
was  ratified  and  approved  by  the  Emperor  of  Russia, 
Alexander  the  first. 

During  that  period  also,  in  1812,  the  first  Russian 
settlement  in  California  was  established.  The  idea  was 
to  furnish  Alaska  with  certain  products,  which  could 
not  be  produced  there,  but  were  easily  carried  along  the 
coast,  and  the  settlement  was  established  with  the  con- 
currence of  the  Spanish  Government,  though  against 
the  wishes  of  the  Roman  Catholic  missionaries.  On  the 
30th  o^  ^Mgust  Kriskoff  removed  this  colony  to  a  hill, 
near  Jie  Russians  called  the  Slaveanka  River,  now 

1  a,s  the  Russian  River,  and  the  inhabitants  were 

pi.,  oipally  devoted  to  agriculture  and  the  drying  of 
meat.  Wheat  was  also  raised  in  large  quantities  and 
sent  to  Sitka,  but  the  Spaniard  regarded  the  Russians 
with  anything  but  friendly  feelings  and  did  all  in  their 
power  to  impede  their  operations.  This  will  show  how 
one  nation,  which  had  a  splendid  chance  of  benefiting 
by  the  opportunities  aft'orded  in  Alaska,  refused  to  do 
so  principally   on  the  ground    of  religious   differences, 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


ii:\ii 


owinuf  to  thu  rivalry  cxifiting  between  the  CIreek  and 
the  Koinaii  Church. 

In  1824  the  convention  between  tlie  United  States 
and  Russia  was  si«rned  at  St,  Petershurijfli.  It  provided 
tliat  the  North  Pacific  sliould  be  open  to  citizens  of 
both  nations  for  fishing,  tradin*^  and  navii^ation,  except 
that  the  trading  posts  of  either  of  tlie  contracting 
parties  should  not  be  visited  by  subjects  of  the  other 
party  without  the  consent  of  the  officer  in  command. 
The  Russians  were  not  to  make  any  settlements  south 
of  latitude  fifty-six  degrees  forty  minutes,  nor  could  the 
Americans  form  any  north  of  that  parallel,  and  it  was 
also  provided  that  arms  and  ammunition  should  not  be 
sold  to  the  natives.  One  clause  in  the  convention  was 
to  the  effect  that  the  liberty  to  navigate  the  Russian 
waters,  might  be  abrogated  after  ten  years,  and  the 
privilege  was  withdrawn  in  1834  on  the  ground  that 
unscrupulous  traders  had  carried  on  the  sale  of  fire-arms 
and  spirits  to  the  native.««. 

Eniiland  was  the  third  nation  to  contribute,  to  some 
extent,  towards  the  further  development  of  Alaska.  The 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  ever  on  the  alert  to  extend  trade, 
conceived  the  idea  of  establishing  a  fort  on  the  Russian 
territory,  before  the  termination  of  the  agreement  be- 
tween Great  Britain  and  Russia,  which  had  been  made 
on  the  same  basis  as  the  one  previously  referred  to.  So 
they  fitted  out  a  vessel  and  dispatched  the  same  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Stikine  River,  but  Baron  Wrangel,  who 
was  chief  director  of  the  colonies,  learned  of  the  project, 
and  the  English  were  not  allowed  to  land.  Subse- 
quently, however,  the  dispute  was  settled,  and  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company  received  a  ten-years  lease  of  a  strip 
of  land,  agreeing  to  pay  an  annual  rental  of  furs,  and  to 
furnish  a  certain  amount  of  provisions  annually,  at  fixed 


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334 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


rates,  consisting  of  560,000  pounds  of  wheat,  19,920 
pounds  of  Hour,  16.160  pounds  of  peas,  16,160  pounds  of 
barley,  36,880  pounds  of  bacon,  19,920  pounds  of  beef, 
and  3,680  pounds  of  ham. 

During  the  year  1848,  the  Russian  mining  engineer, 
Doroshin,  was  sent  by  the  government  to  examine  into 
the  mineral  wealth  of  portions  of  Alaska,  and  his  report 
shows  that  'ready  in  the  same  year  when  gold  was  dis- 
covered in  California,  it  had  become  evident  to  the  Rus- 
sians that  their  province  on  the  Pacific  Coast  was  gold- 
bearing.  In  the  same  year,  the  American  ship  Supe- 
rior, under  Captain  Roys,  passed  through  Bering  Straits, 
being  the  first  whaler  that  undertook  this  enterprise, 
thus  inauiiuratino;  a  series  of  unforeseen  difficulties. 

There  was,  probably,  no  circumstance  which  more 
contributed  towards  brinu-inof  Alaska  to  the  front,  than 
the  disappearance  of  the  unfortunate  Franklin  in  the 
Arctic  regions,  whither  he  had  gone  in  the  year  1845, 
in  search  of  the  northwest  passage.  The  subsequent 
expeditions,  sent  out  to  find  some  trace  of  the  Franklin 
party,  although  unsuccessful  in  this  respect,  did  much 
towards  adding  to  our  general  knowledge  of  the  north- 
ern country,  and  Alaska  received  her  share  of  mention. 
Yet  it  was  not  until  the  country  became  a  territory  of 
the  United  States,  that  the  greatest  attention  was  at- 
tracted  to  Alaska.  American  enterprise,  in  every  con- 
ceivable branch,  has  placed  its  stamp  upon  the  newly- 
acquired  land.  The  wonderful  canneries  have  been  es- 
tablished with  American  money.  Gold,  silver  and  cin- 
nabar mines  have  been  opened  by  American  labor,  and 
worked  by  our  ingenuity.  Our  whalers  yearly  place 
upon  the  world's  market  thousands  of  gallons  of  oil,  and 
thousands  of  pounds  of  whalebone,  while  American  skill 
and  business   capacity   has  made  it  worth  the  tourist's 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


335 


while  to  visit  these  distant  parts,  and  view  the  wonder- 
ful scenes  presented  there.  For,  to  the  man  of  liesure, 
or  the  studednt  of  nature,  Alaska  possesses  a  charm 
which  is,  probably,  not  excelled  by  any  other  country. 
Its  wild  forests,  towering  mountains,  wonderful  glaciers; 
its  rugged  coast,  vast  expanse  of  a  sea  nearly  always 
calm  as  its  name — all  these  are  features  in  the  great  pan- 
orama which  unfolds  itself  to  the  visitor. 

A  pretty  picture  of  Alaskan  scenery  is  presented 
in  the  following  lines  by  Kate  Field: 

"The  sea  is  glassy,  and  a  procession  of  small  bergs, 
broken  away  from  the  glacier,  float  silently  towards  the 
South.  It  is  nature's  dead  march  to  the  sun,  to  melt 
in  its  burning  kisses,  and  to  be  transplanted  into  happy 
tears.  Wild  ducks  fly  past,  and  from  his  eyrie,  a  bald- 
headed  eagle  surveys  the  scene,  deeply,  darkly,  beauti- 
fully blue,  apparently  conscious  that  he  is  the  symbol  of 
the  Republic.  There  are  glaciers  and  glaciers.  In  Swit- 
zerland a  glacier  is  a  vast  bed  of  dirty,  air-holed  ice  that 
has  fastened  itself,  like  a  cold  porous  plaster,  to  the  side 
of  an  Alp.  Distance  alone  lends  enchantment  to  tlie 
view.  In  Alaska,  a  glacier  is  a  wonderful  torrent  that 
seems  to  have  been  suddenly  frozen  when  about  to 
plunge  into  the  sea.  Down  and  about  mountains  wind 
these  snow-clad  serpents,  extending  miles  inland  with  as 
many  arms,  sometimes,  as  an  octopus.  Wonderfully 
picturesque  is  the  Davidson  glacier,  but  more  extended  is 
the  Muir  glacier,  which  marks  the  extreme  northerly 
points  of  pleasure  travel.  Imagine  a  glacier  three  miles 
wide  and  three  hundred  feet  high  at  its  mouth.  Think 
of  Niagara  Falls  frozen  stiff;  add  thirty-six  feet  to  its 
hight,  and  you  have  a  slight  idea  of  the  terminus  of 
Muir  glacier,  in  front  of  which  your  steamer  anchors; 
picture  a  background  of  mountains  fifteen  thousand  feet 


336 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


high,  all  snow-clad,  and  then  imagine  a  gorgeous  sun 
lighting  up  the  ice  crystals  with  rainbow  colorings.  The 
face  of  the  glacier  takes  on  the  hue  of  aqua  marine,  the 
hue  of  every  bit  of  floating  ice,  big  and  little,  thac  sur- 
round the  steamer  and  make  navigation  serious.  These 
dazzling  serpents  move  at  the  rate  of  sixty-four  feet  a 
day.  tumbling  headlong  into  the  sea,  and  as  it  falls,  the 
ear  ;  startled  by  submarine  thunder,  the  echoes  of 
which  resound  far  and  near.  Down,  down,  down  goes 
the  berg,  and  woe  to  the  boat  in  its  way  when  it  again 
rises  to  the  surface." 

Such,  indeed,  was  the  impression  I  received  on 
visiting  Alaska.  But  no  less  wonderful  is  the  sail  along 
the  coast  as  one  passes  through  a  perfect  labyrinth  of 
islands.  One's  admiration  is  constantly  challenged  as 
scene  after  scene  unfolds  itself  with  unexpected  grandeur, 
and  the  traveler  fails  t(.  find  words  with  which  to  express 
his  wonder,  as  he  beholds  the  glaciers  and  the  mount- 
ains of  perpetual  snow. 

Among  the  travelers  of  the  present  day,  who  have 
added  to  our  store  of  knowledge  regarding  this  wonder- 
ful region.  Lieutenant  Frederick  Schwatka  is  one  of 
the  fcremost.  According  to  him  the  territory  is  larger 
than  all  that  part  of  the  United  States  lying  east  of 
the  Mississippi  river;  its  coast  has  the  deepest  soundings 
in  the  world;  its  mountain  peaks  are  the  highest  in  the 
whole  of  the  American  concinent;  its  coast  line  is  more 
extended  than  that  of  the  United  States;  its  farthermost 
western-  point  is  a  greater  distance  west  of  San  Francisco 
than  the  State  of  Maine  is  east  of  the  same  city,  and  its 
great  riv^er,  the  Yukon,  16,000  miles  long,  has  a  mouth 
wider  than  the  distance  from  Keokuk  to  Davenport. 
It  is  more  in  particular  in  his  survey  of  this  river  that 
Lieutenant  Schwatka  has  become  famous.     Up  to  the 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


337 


year  1880  it  was  but  imperfectly  mapped  out,  but  he 
penetrated  to  its  head  waters,  which  he  found  were 
made  up  of  about  one  hundred  lakes.  On  this  j(<urney 
the  party  passed  the  ruins  of  the  old  trading  station  of 
Selkirk,  which  was  established  in  '53  bul  afterwiird 
abandoned.  A  short  distance  above  this  point  the  river 
passes  through  the  mountains  into  the  great  plains, 
where  it  spreads  to  a  width  of  twenty^five  miles.  In  the 
middle  of  the  plains  it  turns  directly  west  at  a  right 
angle  and  cuts  through  the  mountain  range  at  a  point, 
where  is  now  established  the  last  of  the  trading  posts. 

But  Lieutenant  Schwatka's  most  interesting  journey 
was  probably  his  second  expedition,  during  which  he 
accomplished  the  ascension  of  Mt.  St.  Elias,  which  rises 
to  an  altitude  of  18,000  feet  above  the  sea.  On  this 
occasion  the  party  encountered  the  greatest  difficulties 
throuijhout,  and  the  landinsjf,  which  took  place  in  Icy 
Bay,  proved  a  most  dangerous  task.  Three  glaciers  lie 
between  the  bay  and  the  mountain,  of  which  the  first 
covers  an  area  of  1,000  square  miles.  It  is  2,650  feet 
deep  and  has  a  frontage  to  the  sea  of  fifty-three  miles. 

The  scenery  here  is  grand  beyond  description  and  the 
avalanches,  the  chasms,  the  ice  mountains,  the  floating 
bergs^— all  combine  to  produce  a  scene,  which  is  most 
wonderful  in  its  eflect.  It  fairly  dazzles  the  onlooker, 
and  as  one  views  the  surrounding  nature,  he  realizes 
that  in  no  langruaofe  known  to  human  tony^ue  can  words 
be  found,  which  will  adequately  express  the  sensation, 
experienced  in  this  majestic  nature. 

If  Mount  St.  Elias  be  imposing  to  behold,  with  its 
surrounding  scenery,  the  Muir  glacier,  in  Glacier  Bay, 
is  not  less  so.  So  many  descriptions  of  these  wonderful 
ice-fields  have  already  been  written,  that  I  do  not  feel 
called  upon  to  compete  with  the  practiced  writers  whose 


338 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


fluent  descriptious  of  nature  so  ably  depict  the  grandeur 
and  beauty  as  it  appears.  But  I  cannot  close  this  chap- 
ter without  remarking  upon  one  of  the  most  wonderful 
phenomena,  which  yearly  occurs  in  Glacier  Bay  during 
the  longest  days  of  the  month  of  June.  As  the  mid- 
summer (and  one  may  almost  say  the  midnight)  sun  is 
setting  behind  Mount  Fairweather,  there  appears  upon 
the  bosom  of  Pacific  glacier,  a  singular  sight.  It  is  a 
phantom  city;  the  mirage  of  an  ancient,  and  to  all  appear- 
ances, oriental  town.  Directly  in  front,  apparently  sur- 
rounding the  city,  is  a  high  stone  wall,  behind  which 
are  seen  immense  buildings  looming  toward  the  sky. 
The  architecture  is  quaint  and  seemingly  eastern.  The 
building  material  appears  to  be  mostly  stone,  the  roofs 
are  flat,  and  smoke  may  be  seen  issuing  from  the 
chimneys.  The  streets  appear  to  be  narrow  and  the 
buildings,some  of  which  are  evidently  in  course  of  erection, 
are  closely  packed  and  do  not  look  as  if  they  were 
placed  in  proper  blocks  or  arranged  according  to  our 
ideas  of  a  city  plan.  It  is  apparently  a  very  large  city 
extending  back  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  tall 
spires  and  cupolas  intersperse  the  contour  of  the  picture, 
which  is  so  distinct,  that  it  has  been  possible  to  take 
well  defined  photographs  of  it.  It  is  a  fact,  that,  since 
1880,  every  returning  year  at  the  same  period  and  hour 
this  remarkable  phenomenon  repeats  itself.  But  where 
the  real  city  is  situated,  which  is  here  so  strangely 
reflected,  no  one  can  tell,  nor  have  I  ever  heard  any 
scientific  proposition  trying  to  solve  the  problem  of  lo- 
cating the  actual  city.  There,  in  the  waning  light  it 
may  be  seen  in  the  far  northern  land,  where  the  ice 
king  reigns  all  the  year.  There  it  seems  to  float  before 
the  vision  of  the  puzzled  spectator,  whose  mind  invol- 
untarily grapples  with  the  wonder  and  tries  to  locate  its 


'ful 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


339 


reality.  But  who  dwells  there,  no  one  knows.  What 
hopes,  what  fears,  what  longings  are  fostered  there  re- 
mains a  mystery.  On  the  barren  icefield  of  the  glacier 
it  rises  nightly  for  a  few  fleeting  moments  like  a  phantom, 
called  into  existence  by  the  magic  wand  of  a  fairy — a 
most  wonderful  optical  deception,  a  freak  of  nature,  a 
fata  morgana. 


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CHAPTEU  II. 

Miniii<(  Matters — On  the  Stikiue  River — ■Sau  Fraueisco  Specu- 
lators in  the  Fiekl — Lar<^e  iMiuiu<»'  Machinery — Fish  Oil  and 
Gold  Dust — The  Yukon  Diggings — Comparison  Between  I'ast 
and  Present — Interesting  Indians — Artistic  Carvings — Inno- 
centius  Veuiaminoff — The  End. 

As  a  matter  of  course  I  paid  particular  attention  to 
the  uiinino-  districts  of  Alaska,  duriuo;  uiv  l)rief  sojourn 
there,  and  did  not  forget  to  visit  the  Stikine  liiver 
where  the  first  niiniuij;-  camp  of  any  account,  was  located 
in  1876.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine  is  Fort  Wrangle, 
called  after  one  of  the  Russian  Governors  who,  durinof 
histermof  office,  did  much  for  the  benefit  of  the  territov. 
That  Alaska  is  a  rich  gold-bearing  country,  there  can  be  no 
doubt,  and  at  the  time  of  writing  this,  reports  are  fre- 
quently heard  as  to  new  mines  opened  up  there;  but  I 
do  not  think  it  will  ever  compare  with  the  first  find  on 
the  California  gold-fields,  nor,  indeed,  with  the  present 
sup])ly,  reserved  for  the  capitalist  to  reveal  by 
means  of  modern  machinery.  The  coast  of  Alaska,  like 
the  coast  of  British  Columbia,  indicates  immense  ofcoloo- 
ical  revolutions,  and  in  my  opinion,  it  is  during  such  a 
period  that  the  gold,  which  would  otherwise  have  been 
easily  accessible,  has  been  forced  downward  to  a  lower 
stratum,  whence  only  large  capital  can  bring  it  to  light, 
if  accessible  at  all. 

Comparatively  speaking,  our  knowledge  of  the  geolog- 
ical conditions  of  Alaska,  is  somewhat  limited,  for  obvi- 


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342 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


ous  reasons.  On  the  Stikine  River,  the  gold  deposits, 
which  are  now  nearly  exhausted,  were  only  worked  on 
the  placers;  but  there  are,  no  doubt,  quartz  veins  in  the 
nei<>chborhood,  and  the  miners  who  had  the  courage  to 
penetrate  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Tahco  River,  were 
rewarded  by  finding  coarse  gold.  Gold  has  also  been 
found  in  the  sands  of  the  Yukon,  near  Fort  Yukon;  it 
exists  on  the  Kaknu  River  and  around  the  Taku  vil- 
lages. Of  late,  however,  a  number  of  enterprises  have 
been  started  in  Alaska,  on  a  large  scale,  for  the  purpose 
of  extracting  whatever  wealth  the  soil  may  hold  in  gold 
or  other  precious  metals.  On  Douglas  Island  the  lairg- 
est  quartz  mill  in  the  world  has  been  lately  put  up. 
Two  hundred  and  forty  stamps  are  in  operation,  and  the 
machinery  is  conceded  to  be  not  only  the  largest,  but 
the  most  complete  of  its  kind  in  existence,  its  monthly 
output  of  gold  bullion  being  roughly  estimated  at  about 
$150,000. 

Douglas  Island,  I  should  say,  is  at  present  that  part 
of  Alaska,  where  the  richest  deposits  of  Gold  are  to  be 
found.  Here  is  located  the  celebrated  Paris  Mine  and 
Eastern  and  European  speculators  have  lately  bought 
claims  in  this  locality,  sinking  as  much  as  $1,500,00  in 
mines  which  will  now  be  worked  by  improved  machinery. 
It  is  supposed  that  the  country  holds  several  gold-bear- 
ino-  leds^es  of  ijjreat  size  and  value,  and  tunnels  are  beinsr 
driven  into  the  mountain  sides  with  a  view  to  opening 
them.  On  the  mainland,  also,  rich  lodes  are  claimed 
to  exist  in  the  so-called  Silver  Bow  Basin,  near  Juneau, 
and  this  locality  is  regarded  with  a  good  deal  of  antici- 
pation. It  is  expected  that  some  rich  revelations  will 
take  place  here  in  a  near  future,  and  the  sanguine  ones 
contend  that  one  of  the  most  orolific  gold-fields  in  the 
world  will  be  found  in  this  locality.     An  extension  of 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


343 


the  Silver  Bow  Basin  is  supposed  to  crop  up  at  one  of 
the  forks  of  Sheep  Creek.  Here,  at  all  events,  recent 
discoveries  have  revealed  ore  that  carries  galena,  zinc 
blende,  and  copper  pyrites,  while  the  assays  show  plenty 
of  gold  and  a  small  percentage  of  silver.  As  a  matter 
of  course  this  ore  has  to  be  treated  in  a  smelting  furnace, 
but  I  understand  that  there  are  other  lodes  in  the  same 
belt,  which  bear  rich  ore  as  a  free  milling  quartz,  wherein 
the   gold  can  be  readily  detected  with  the  naked  eye. 

A  Wisconsin  company  has  lately  put  a  small  mill  into 
operation  in  the  Sitka  district.  It  is  asserted  that  this 
locality  is  rich  in  different  lodes,  and  that  gold  is  found 
in  payable  quantities;  but  I  am  not  aware  that  the  Wis- 
consin people  have  so  far  done  any  great  strokes  in  their 
venture. 

On  Unga  Island  several  San  Francisco  companies  have 
engaged  in  developing  a  dozen  or  more  claims,  and  I  be- 
lieve that  with  comparatively  little  outlay  some  good 
results  may  be  expected  by*  the  way  of  rich  returns. 
The  ore  carries  about  equal  parts  of  gold  and  silver  and 
from  thirty  to  seventy  per  cent,  of  lead,  and  it  is  taken  to 
San  Francisco  to  go  throuijh  the  smeltini^  furnace  there. 

On  Onolaska  Island  gold  and  silver  ledcjes  have  been 
disclosed,  and  it  is  expected  that  they  can  be  worked  to 
advantage.  Some  years  ago  prospectors  thought  that 
they  had  found  gold  in  paying  quantities  in  the  so-called 
black  sands  of  the  shores  of  Yakutat  Bay  and  of  the 
ocean  in  that  vicinity,  and  large  quantities  of  the  sand 
were  assayed  in  Sitka,  showing  forty  dollars  to  the  ton. 
There  was  a  rush  at  once,  but  most  of  the  miners  soon 
returned  disappointed.  A  few,  who  remained  and  had 
brought  with  them  proper  appliances  for  the  extraction 
of  the  precious  metal,  were  more  fortunate  and  succeeded 
in  making  fairly  good  wages,  when  all  of  a  sudden  they 


1 


344 


HUNTIN(i    FOK    (VO-LD 


»    !1 


Pnn! 


discovered  that  the  gold  had  totally  disappeared.  A 
singular  explanation  was  given  of  this  tact,  which  I  re- 
peat here  tor  the  benetit  of  miners  i)laced  under  similar  cir- 
cumstances. A  large  (|uantity  of  dog-tish  had  been  left 
to  die  upon  the  shore  by  the  receding  tide,  and  the  oil 
from  these  tish  was  drawn  out  by  the  heat  of  the  sun's 
rays.  The  oil  permeated  the  sand  and  operated  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  prevent  the  quicksilver  on  the  plates 
from  picking  up  the  gold,  which  was  therefore  carried 
away  in  the  tailings  and  lost. 

The  miners  haviny:  discovered  the  reason  for  their 
loss,  selected  sand  which  had  not  been  permeated  with 
tish  oil,  and  were  once  more  making  their  labor  pay, 
when  a  tidal  wave  swept  into  the  bay  and  washed  away 
all  the  sand  within  reach  containing  gold.  But  the  inci- 
dent would  tend  to  prove  that  it  is  possible  to  extract 
gold  from  the  sand  all  along  the  coast  of  these  parts, 
with  })roper  appliances  and  care. 

In  Golovin  Bay  a  San  Francisco  company  has  opened 
a  silver  mine,  with  gOv)d  results.  It  is  located  in  the 
mountains  running  through  the  peninsula  between  Ber- 
inij  Sea  and  the  Arctic  Ocean,  in  latitude  65  dejrrees. 
The  ore  here  is  rich,  carrying  all  the  way  from  seventy 
to  eighty-tive  per  cent  of  i)ure  lead,  and  from  one  hun- 
dred to  two  liundred  and  tifty  dollars  of  silver  to  the  ton 

During  my  stay  in  Alaska,  I  was  unable  to  learn 
much  of  the  diggings  on  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries. 
In  conversation  with  men  who  had  been  there,  or  who 
knew  about  the  locality,  I  ascertained,  however,  that  no 
great  operations  had  been  carried  on,  although  a  good 
many  daring  prospectors  had  ventured  far  into  the  inte- 
rior, fighting  the  natives  and  the  elements  with  equal 
valor  and  tenacity.  Here,  to  my  mind,  was  carried  on 
the  kind  of  mining  mostly  resembling  what  I  had  known 


HUNTIN(i    FOR    GOLD 


:U5 


in  till)    early    days    <»f  Ciilit'oniiu's   <((>ld    history.     Men 
would  go  up  there  in  partii's  and    work    the  placers,  the 
same  as  we  had  done.      Some   of  them  ptMitratcd  as  far 
as  thfe    Shetando,    and    the    pan  or  the  rocker  was  their 
main-stay  as   they    drew    from    the   gravel    the   goldiMi 
specks.     1  learned  many    things   about   these    diggings 
that  interested  me  and  recalled  to  my  mind  incidents  of 
my  own  life  on  the   Yuba.      The  fortune-seekers  on  the 
mining  fields  of  to-day,  seem   to  have  much  in  common 
with  their  predecessors  of  the  long  ago.       They  are  just 
as  restless  and  just  as  credulous.     I  listened  with  a  smile 
on  my  lips,  when  they    told    me    the  wonderful     stories 
that  would  come  into  camp,  of  rich  discoveries  of  untold 
wealth.       The  wild  i'oose  chase  for  (jrold  Lake  or   Lone 
Tree,  returned  to  my  memory  o!i  such  occasions.     Then 
again  they  would  describe  to    me  how  they  might  have 
become   rich  had   they    not   left  g(jod-paying  claims  to 
go  in  search  of  others  which  were    either  phantoms,  or 
did    not   pan    out.     Alas!  How  often  had    I    done   the 
same.      And  how  many  are  there  among   the  early  pio- 
neers  who   might  now  have  spent  the  evening  of  their 
life  in  comfort  and  ease,  had  they  been  content  with  the 
claims  that  afforded  them  a  rich  yield,  instead  of  leaving 
them  to  ofo  in  search  of  still  more  majjjniticent   fortunes 
whicl.    did    not  materialize.      In  other  respects  I  recog- 
nized features  similar  to  those  predominant  on  the  Yuba. 
It  appears  that  the  route  into  the  upi)er  Yukon  country 
was  through  the  Dyah  Pass.       But  this  trail  is  difficult 
and  dangerous  to  travel,  and   the  miner  is  not  in  a  posi- 
tion to  take  with  him  any  great  amount  of  supplies,  and 
therefore,  when  he  gets  to   the    diggings,   is   entirely  at 
the  mercy  of  the  traders,  who  take  the  same  advantage 
of  him,  that  they  did  of  us  in  the  early  days.       When  I 
visited  Alaska,  I  was  given  to    understand  that  on  this 


'•rr 


340 


HUNTING    FOR   GOIJ) 


I 


'IS 


!(:'• 


j^old-field  flour  was  sold  at  thirty-five  dollars  a  barrel; 
bacon  forty  coats  per  j)ouiid;  sugar  thirty  cents,  heans 
twenty  cents,  rice  twenty-five  cents,  lard  thirty-five 
cents,  and  everythiiij^  else  in  proportion. 

I  was,  naturally,  more  interested  in  the  ^^old  niining- 
of  Alaska  than  in  anythini^  else  appertaining^  to  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  country;  but  I  must  admit  that  I  was  some- 
what impressed  by  the  grand  possibilities  of  this  terri- 
tory, in  other  directions.  I  have  already  mentioned  the 
silver  mines,  but  in  addition  to  these  are,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  large  deposits  of  lead;  and  copper,  iron  and  (quick- 
silver are  also  found.  The  fisheries  and  canneries  can- 
not but  attract  the  attention  of  the  observing  traveler, 
and  the  wonderful  variety  of  furs  is  not  less  interesting. 

I  would  not  close  my  brief  outline  of  this  wonderful 
country  without  mentioning  the  natives,  who  dwell 
therein.  The  aboriijincs  are  divided  into  a  number  of 
tribes  but  Mr.  William  H.  Dall  contends  that  they  con- 
sist of  two  principal  races,of  which  he  calls  one  the  Indians 
and  the  other  the  Orarians,  the  latter  name  being"  de- 
rived  from  the  Latin,  meaning:  appertaining  to  the 
coast.  He  claims,  and  it.  would  seem  with  much  justifi- 
cation, that  the  inlahd  natives  and  those  who  inhabit 
the  coast,  are  two  entirely  different  races,  and  probably 
no  Caucasian  has  ever  more  dilligently  examined  into 
the  afiairs  of  the  native  Alaskans,  than  has  Mr.  Dall, 
who,  as  director  of  the  scientific  corps  of  the  Western 
Union  Telegraph  expedition,  traveled  over  these  northern 
reofions  and  made  scientific  researches  of  all  the  conditions 
of  the  natives.  To  the  Orarian  group  is  counted  the 
inhabitants  of  the  northern  and  western  shores  of 
America,  the  islands  of  the  vicinity  and  that  part  of 
eastern  Siberia,  which  is  known  as  the  Chukchee  penin- 
sula,and  Mr.  Dall  divides  them  into  three  branches — the 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


347 


Iiniuit,  tlio  Aleutians  and  the  Tuski.  The  Indian  group 
Mr.  Dall  divides  into  two  branches,  calling  them  the 
Thlinkets  and  the  Tinnels,  but  each  of  these  again  is 
divided  into  a  number  of  «ther  branches  or  tribes. 

All  these  diti'ere^t  divisions  of  mankind  vary  in  lan- 
guage, in  custom,  in  appearance  from  the  Eskimo  to 
the  Kygani,  in  whom  I  soon  recognized  my  Indian 
friend  from  the  Queen  Charlotte  Archipelago.  In  fact 
the  Kygani  and  the  Hydah  Indians  both  belong  to  the 
Thlinket  group.  They  were  the  ones  with  whom  I 
came  mostly  in  contact,  and  whom  I  therefore  had  the 
greatest  opportunity  of  observing,  and  I  was  nmch  im- 
pressed with  all  that  I  learned  concerning  their  habits, 
customs,  beliefs  and  traditions.  Singularly  enough,  al- 
though these  people  live  so  close  to  the  Queen  Char- 
lotte Indians  and  are,  as  already  stated,  somewhat  re- 
lated to  them,  they  have  traditions,  in  which  notwith- 
standing the  subject  matter  is  common,  the  expression 
is  entirely  different.  One  of  these  relates  to  the  origin 
of  the' heavenly  bodies,  and  I  refer  my  reader  to  the 
myth,  as  told  in  the  chapter  of  the  Hydah  Indians, 
wliile  I  here  produce  the  version,  given  by  the  Thlinkets. 

Yehl  or  Yahl  is  described  as  the  maker  of  woods  and 
waters.  As  he  grew  up  he  had  many  adventures,  but 
the  most  interesting  one  was  experienced,  when  he  put 
the  sun  and  moon  and  stars  in  their  places,  and  this  is 
the  way  in  which  it  was  done.  There  was  a  rich  chief 
in  those  days,  who  kept  the  sun  and  moon  and  stars  in 
different  boxes,  which  no  one  was  allowed  to  touch 
Yehl  knew  that  only  a  grandchild  of  the  old  chief  would 
be  permitted  to  handle  the  brilliant  lights,  and  he  deter- 
mined to  take  upon  himself  this  part.  To  this  end  he 
transformed  himself  into  a  blade  of  grass  and  was  swal- 
lowed by  the  chief's  beautiful  daughter,  who  in  due  time 


:U8 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


■>i    ' 


?. 


IH'ave  birth  to  ca  child,  in  whom  Yehl  was  embodied. 
T]ie  iifraiKlfather  «oon  took  sucli  a  hkiiio"  to  the  youiiijf 
child,  that  he  could  not  refuse  him  anything.  One  day 
lie  asked  to  be  allowed  to  play  with  the  box,  containing 
the  stars,  and,  having  obtained  permission,  he  removed 
the  lid,  when,  behold,  the  heavens  suddenly  became 
starlit.  He  received  a  severe  scoldino",  but  still  his 
giandfather  could  not  refuse  him,  when  he  asked  per- 
mission to  play  with  the  other  box,  containing  the  moon. 
Again  the  same  thing  happened  and  the  old  chief  swore 
that  he  would  never  consent  to  let  him  have  the  third 
box,  containing  the  sun.  But  Yehl  kept  fasting,  until  he 
made  himself  sick,  and  then  the  grandfather  gave  in, 
Yehl  having  solemnly  promised  not  to  open  the  box. 
No  sooner  had  the  mischievous  grandchild  obtained  the 
box,  tlian  he  ti'ansformed  himself  into  a  raven  and  flew 
away.  He  thou  removed  the  lid  from  the  box,  and  the 
sun  shone  over  the  earth,  but  tlie  dwellers  thereon, 
dazzled  with  the  unusual  lio'ht,  ran  into  the  woods  and 
mountains,  some  of  them  diving  even  into  the  wtiters, 
and  many  of  them  were  transformed  into  animals  and 
fish. 

These  Indians  do  not  seem  to  have  any  definite  idea  of 
a  Supreme  being,  and  w4th  them  Yehl  seems  to  be  the 
only  recognized  deity,  if  deity  he  can  be  called.  He  ar- 
ranges everything  for  the  comfort  of  the  Thlinkets,  and 
then  retires  to  his  abode,  where  neither  men  nor  spirits 
can  penetrate.  Among  their  traditiotis  there  is  one 
which  bears  upon  the  theory  of  a  general  deluge,  thus 
accountinac  for  the  diflerence  of  lan2fua<i:es.  A  few  hu- 
man  beings  were  saved  on  a  raft,  but  this  broke  in 
twain.  On  one  part  of  it  were  the  ancestors  of  the 
Thlinkets,  and  on  the  other  the  rest  of  the  nations  of 
the    world;  and    hence,  to  this  day,  the  Thlinkets   do 


n  i 


o 
r 
> 
n 

w 

tr 


K 
O 

o 


o 
o 

c 

> 
n 

n 

?3 


i-i-Htf 


n  t 


''■ii: 


■r  -- 


I'H  Hi     » 


iHi^ 


Bi 


)i 


!!|!| 


350 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


not   speak  the  same  language  as  do  the  rest  of  men. 

Baron  Wrangel,  of  whom  mention  has  been  made 
several  times,  has  collected  many  of  the  legends  of  these 
people,  as  has  also  Mr.  Dall.  But  in  the  opinion  of  the 
latter,  the  Baron's  accounts  have  been  considerably 
mixed  with  the  superstitions  of  the  Greco-Russian 
Church,  and  is  not  to  be  relied  upon  in  every  respect. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  about  the  Alaska  na- 
tive, is  his  wonderful  idea  of  carving.  In  this  regard 
his  skill  is  absolutely  singular,  and  his  imitative  powers 
often  very  remarkable.  Among  these  people  we  find 
the  totem-pole  artistically  decorated,  the  same  as  I  have 
described  in  speaking  of  the  Hydah  Indians,  the  gro- 
tesque masks  and  the  curious  carvings  on  all  the  imple- 
ments and  domestic  utensils.  But  it  appears  to  me  that 
in  Alaska  the  art  is  carried  to  a  still  higher  degree,  and 
the  many  visiting  tourists  which  now-a-days  travel  over 
the  territory,  have  no  doubt  done  much  to  develop  the 
practice  by  ordering  things  carved  #which  were  never 
thought  of  before,  such  as  paper-knives,  salad-forks,  salt- 
spoons,  etc.  They  also  understand  the  art  of  carving 
one  thing  within  another,  such  as  several  balls  within 
balls,  and  so  on,  and  I  have  seen  a  watch-chain  with 
proper  links,  most  skilfully  carved  from  one  piece  of  a 
a  walrus  tusk.  Neither  do  these  people  confine  them- 
selves to  any  particular  material,  but  will  apply  walrus 
tusk,  wood,  silver,  gold  or  anything  that  their  primitive 
tools  can  form  into  articles  for  use,  ornament  or  curiosity. 

This  talent  they  seem  to  have  in  common  with  the 
Chinese,  and,  indeed,  the  native  people  of  that  northern 
province,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  belong  more  to  the 
Mongolian  type  than  to  any  other  I  can  think  of,  and 
is  certainly  not  at  all  like  the  North  American  Indian 
in  appearance  or  habits. 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


351 


It  is  roughly  estimated  that  there  still  remains  about 
35,000  natives  who  are  entirely  outside  the  boundaries 
of  civilization.  There  are  about  3500  partly  civilized 
natives,  while  the  Aleuts  number  3,000.  These  latter 
people  are  highly  interesting  and  inhabit  the  Aleutian 
archipelago.  They  nearly  all  speak  Russian  and  profess 
the  Greco-Russian  faith.  They  owe  their  present  de- 
gree of  civilization  almost  entirely  to  the  undying  efforts 
in  the  cause  of  humanity  of  the  late  Rev.  Innocentius 
Veniaminoflf  of  the  Irkutsk  Seminary,  who  labored 
among  them  with  a  devotion  and  lielf-sacrifice,  that  have 
born  everlasting  fruit.  It  is  said  of  these  people  that 
they  are  most  excellent  chess  players.  They  are  very 
singular  in  their  habits  and  ideas,  and  they  certainly 
afford  interesting  subjects  for  the  student  of  mankind  in 
its  various  manifestations. 

I  have  submitted  these  few  remarks  about  Alaska  in 
hopes  that  they  may  be  of  some  interest  to  the  reader. 
I  paid  but  a  brief  visit  to  that  wonderful  land  with  no 
other  intent  than  to  see  it  and  ascertain  a  few  facts 
about  its  mining  prospects,  some  of  which  I  have  re- 
lated above.  But  my  journey  thither  comprised  part  of 
the  experiences  of  my  life,  which  by  this  time  has  been 
a  long  and  varied  one,  and  for  that  reason  I  have  pre- 
sented in  these  chapters,  w^iat  I  thought  would  be  a 
fitting  termination  to  an  account  of  a  gold  hunters 
travels  on  the  Pacific  coast. 


i' 


1 
'a  [ 

1  ' 

1 

i 

.1.:. 

THK 


KATIVK    SOKS. 


363 


:  ! 


li'; 


.■H! 


L 


CHIPS   OF  THE  OLD  BLOCK. 

A       CHAPTER      DEDICATED      TO      THE     NATIVE      SONS. 

The  Author's  Address — Pioneers  and  Native  Hous — Two  National 
Days — An  Organization  Established — A  Moth-eaten  Boar 
— General  Winn's  Efforts — A  Young  President — Telling 
Speeches — A  Birthday  Party — Grand  Secretary  and  Free- 
Mason — A  Kelic  Saved — Men  of  Action. 

I  am  approaching  the  close  of  this  vohime  and  have 
soon  to  fall  back  upon  the  kind  indulgence  of  my  readers, 
who  shall  decide  whether  it  has  imparted  to  them  any 
additional  knowledije  or  a^orded  amusement  I  have 
devoted  a  few  of  the  closing  pages  to  the  memory  of 
scaie  of  my  pioneer  friends,  wdioni  I  have  known  in  Cal- 
ifornia and  British  Columbia.  Some  of  them  still  walk 
in  the  path  of  life,  enjoying  the  pleasing  results  of  suc- 
cessful labors,  whilst  others  have  crossed  the  bourne, 
from  which  there  is  no  return. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  these  men  have  been  among  the 
builders  of  the  respective  countries  which  they  represent. 
My  readers  will  have  seen  what  tremendous  progress 
has  been  made  on  the  Pacific  Slope  within  the  [)ast 
forty-five  years,  Alaska  has  been  made  accessible  and 
promises  to  become  one  of  the  world's  most  interest- 
ing parts.  British  Columbia  is  daily  being  opened  up 
more  and  more  and  develops  immense  resources  in  its 
interior  as  well  as  along  the  coast.  California,  the 
country  where  the  "citrus  blossom"  and  the  mid- 
winter roses  scent  the  air;  the  country  that  became  tiie 
second  Colchis,  has  so  developed  since  '49  that  it  is  on  a 


355 


;j;j(i 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


i!    II    K 


:  ;:'   li^ 


■1 


I; 


f  • 


level  ^vitll  many  ])arts  of  the  old  world  and  alieud  of 
others;  and  Panama  has  been  the  scene  of  the  most  ijji- 
gantic  engineering  projects  of  tlie  })resent  age,  which, 
although  they  have  so  far  failed,  will  eventually  be 
written  upon  the  pages  of  the  world's  history  as  one  of 
its  wonders. 

In  paying  a  small  tribute  to  a  few  of  the  pioneers 
who  in  one  way  or  another  had  something  to  do  with 
the  success  and  development  of  the  various  countries,  it 
has  not  escaped  my  observation  that  there  are  many 
whose  names  ought  to  have  been  particularly  noticed  in 
these  pages,  while  want  of  space  has  not  permitted  me 
to  follow  my  own  desire  on  this  point.  Yet,  as  I  reflect 
upon  my  first  entrance  in  California  and  review  the 
changes  that  have  passed  over  that  country  since  those 
days,  I  cannot  help  remembering  such  names  as  Fre- 
mont, Sutter,  Marshall,  Winn  and  others,  while  it 
appears  to  me  that  even  the  name  of  Mariano  Vallejo 
demands  consideration. 

But,  in  remembering  these  men,  one  is  apt  to  carry 
his  reflections  into  the  ijeneration  that  followed  then. 
The  pioneers  were  sturdy,  but  their  children  were  no 
less  so;  that  which  the  former  founded  and  commenced 
to  build  the  latter  covered  with  a  roof  and  cared  for, 
and  when  to-day  one  visits  the  far  west  and  sees  the 
progress  and  the  continued  development,  which  is  taking 
place  there,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  no  parts 
of  this  great  continent  is  the  advancement  of  the  country 
due  so  much  to  the  Native  Son  of  the  soil  as  here  on 
the  Pacific  Slope,  where  distance  and  the  expense  of 
traveling  have  kept  immigration  within  limits  more  so 
than  in  any  other  parts. 

It  was  a  happy  thought,  which  first  brought  about 
the  idea  of  establishinijj  the  order  of  Native  Sons  of  the 


Uii 


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HUNTING    I'OK    GOLD 


i  [ 

•  ■ 

1 

i  ,  R     :     -                           ! 

( 

ill  1  ^ 

i 

ik: 

Golden  West,  and  it  was  conceived  by  a  pioneer.  To 
General  A.  M.  Winn  is  due  tl»e  credit  of  iiaving  origi- 
nated the  desire  to  foiin  sucli  a  society.  It  is  somewhat 
aniusiiii^  that,  when  the  tiiought  first  occurred  to  the  en- 
thusiastic })ioneer,  he  coukl  not  iind  a  Native  8on  old 
enou«^h  to  become  a  duly  responsible  member.  It  was 
in  IS(k)  that  the  (?  .loral,  havin<^  b(3en  made  Grand 
Marshal    tor    the  ',h  of  July  celebration,  issued  a 

call  to  voun<''  native  vJalit'()rnians,  uro'inLi;  them  to  meet 
him  for  the  pur[)osc  of  forming  a  company  in  the  parade. 

His  idea  was  that  having  created  a  patriotic  enthu- 
siasm amongst  them,  he  could  easily  persuade  them 
afterwards  to  orofanize  an  association,  and  he  evidently 
foresaw  that  such  a  society  woidd  not  oidy  become  an 
ornament  to  the  state,  but  also  aot  as  one  of  the  driving 
wheels  in  the  machinery  which  should  brinix  this  vouiiii 
but  ambitious  state  to  the  front.  For,  although,  in  its 
ultimate  organization,  politics  were  not  among  the  topics 
which  might  be  discus.sed  by  the  order,  the  sense  of 
patriotism  is  yet  the  mainspring  of  its  existence,  and 
nothing  will  more  thoroughly  |)ermeate  the  principles 
of  men,  guiding  and  directing    them    into    one    groove. 

But  on  that  June  day  1SG9,  when  a  number  of  young 
Californians  met  in  response  to  his  summons,  the 
General  was  doomed  to  disappointment.  It  is  a  fact 
that  they  attended  in  large  numbers;  that  they  exhibited 
much  enthusiasm  and  formed  a  pleasing  feature  of  the 
parade;  but  they  were  too  young  for  organization,  and 
disbanded   when  the  festivities  were  over. 

But  their  only  short-coming  was  one  which  iii  time 
mended  itself  The  idea  of  a  Native  Californian  Society 
had  been  conceived,  the  enthusiasm  created,  and  like  an 
avalanche,  it  increased  until  the  time  arrived  when 
evervthinof  was  readv  for  formation. 


HUXTINO    rOK    (lOLU 


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the 
fact 
)ited 
the 
and 


During  tlie  preparations,  incidental  to  the  celebration 
of  tlie  Fourth  of  .Iiilv,  1875,  (leneral  Jolm  McCondj 
(Irand  ^[arshal  of  the  parade  of  tliat  year,  in.serted  in 
tlie  advertising  colunnis  of  the  daily  press,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  June  24th,  an  invitation  to  the  Native  Sons  of 
San  Francisco,  over  fourteen  years  of  age  to  meet  in  the 
Police  Court  room,  Tuesday  night,  June  29th  and 
organize  for  the  purpose  of  taking  part  in  the  celebration 
of  the 'national  da}  This  [mblic;  notice  was  the  means 
of  brinixinix  together  the  vouni»'  men,  who  finally  carried 
into  execution  the  formation  of  the  order  of  Native  ^ons 
of  the  Golden  West.  In  accordance  with  the  call,  a  small 
but  enthusiastic  body  met  and  organized  for  the  purpose 
of  taking  i)art  in  tlie  parade,  and  further  determined  to 
perpetuate  the  organization  under  the  name  of  the 
.Native  >^ons  of  the  Golden  i^tate,  whiL*  a  number  of  those 
present,  who  were  under  sixteen  years,  were  debarred  by 
vote  from  i)articipating.  Among  tliose  wlu)  met  on 
that  occasion  were  many,  who  have  since  become  well 
kn-own,  and  the  followimg  names  are  recorded:  Myles  V. 
O'Donnell,  Louis  Patrick,  Janjes  McDermott,  Abraham 
Meyer,  John  Wilson,  Walter  Loveland,  Charles  D. 
Okls,  F.  C.  W.  Fenn,  Louis  Harris,  Raphael  Prager, 
Robert  Aitken,  James  Bayliss,  E.  F.  McKenna,  E. 
Block,  Broderick  Temple,  George  Winslow,  and  John 
A.  Steinback. 

General  Winn,  who  had  not  forgotten  his  plan  of  six 
vears  before  was  present.  He  now  saw  a  chance  of 
having  his  pet  idea  realized,  and  in  calling  the  meeting 
to  order,  he  briefly  stated  that  its  purpose  was  to  form 
a  society  of  Native  Caiifornians. 

After  resolving  to  parade  on  the  Fourth  of  July,  the 
society  "djourned  to  meet  again  on  the  First  of  July, 
when  Gt  aeral  Winn  in  a  spirited  address  to  the  young 


i 


!t    :) 


i 


111 


f^ll 


iMlf 


n(;() 


HUNTINO    FOR   GOLD 


men,  used  the  followiiiL;'  expressions:  "Tliis  orLiiiiiizjition 
of  younuf  men  under  tlu;  name  of  the  Native  Jr^ons  of  the 
Golden  i^tate  is  to  become  the  future  pioneers  of  Cali- 
fornia. Such  men  as  James  Lick  and  otliers  are  fast 
passinsj;  away;  and  the  rising'  j^eneration  will  surely  fill 
their  places,  and  the  course  adopted  by  jou  is  one  that  1 
liave  lonuf  looked  for  amon<jf  younu'  Californians.  As  to 
the  future  of  our  State,  never  was  there  such  an  outlook 
known  in  the  annals  o'' nistorv. 

That  year,  '75,  tlu;  national  day  was  celebrated  on 
Monday,  the  Fourth  falliiiL?  on  Sunday.  The  Native 
Sons  made  their  debut  in  a  new  role;  they  carried  a 
liandsome  silk  American  Ha;^,  lent  them  by  a  patriotic 
citizen,  and  as  an  eml>lem  they  exhibited  a  stuffed  bear, 
which  had  been  found  in  a  deserted  room  in  Anthonv's 
Hall.  The  bear  ^va;^  rather  the  worse  for  moths;  it  was 
a  cub  about  three  feet  Unv^  and  had  been  used  as  one  of 
the  insii^uia  of  a  disbanded  club,  but  it  answered  the 
purpose,  and  few,  who  to-day  see  the  bear  emblem 
upon  the  breast  of  a  Native  Son,  would  think  that  it 
originated  with  a  nmst}',  old  straw-stuffed  cub  that  had 
been  discarded  by  its  rightful  owniers. 

The  band  of  young  natives  made  a  splendid  appear- 
ance in  the  parade  and  it  was  noticeable  that  there  was 
hardly  a  difference  of  ten  years  between  the  youngest 
and  the  oldest  of  them.  After  the  parade  the  boys 
marched  to  Anthony's  Hall,  where  they  held  impromptu 
literary  exercises,  and  one  of  their  number,  F.  G.  W. 
Fenn,  read  a  poem,  which  he  had  composed  for  the 
occasion. 

The  next  meeting  was  held  on  Sunday,  July  11th, 
1875,  and  from  this  dates  the  beginning  of  the  Order, 
which  here  finally  took  the  name  of  "Native  Sons  of 
the  Golden  West,"  and  John   A.  Steinbach  was  chosen 


HUNTINC.    FOR    GOLD 


rid  I 


the  first  President,  ultliougli  Jit  the  time  lie  was  sou  reel  y 
twenty -one  years  of  age.  A  tew  months  after,  on  Oeto- 
her  2 1st,  a  party  was  given  at  Sanders'  Hall  in  honor  of 
the  vouiiLr  Preside!»t,  who  on  that  day  heeame  of  age. 
On  1- t  occasion  President  Steinhach  made  a  speech 
whic».,  for  force  and  elo(|uence,  was  singular  as  coming 
from  a  man  so  young.  In  it  lie  said:  "Our  society  is 
the  heginning  of  an  Order  tha't  will  jiroudly  wave  its 
hanners  over  more  than  half  the  territory  of  the  United 
States,  while  its  power  and  influence  may  control  the 
destinies  of  the  Golden  West.  We  were  born  in  a  coun- 
try of  gold  and  silver,  at  a  time  when  the  world  was 
looking  for  some  great  change,  and  when  we  presented 
it  with  more  nu!tals  than  the  nations  of  the  earth  had 
ever  seen  before;  with  agricultural  products  in  such 
<|uantity  and  ((uality  as  to  astonish  mankind,  it  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at  that  we  are  proud  of  the  land  of  our 
birth;  and  when  we  consider  that  none  but  self-reliant, 
energetic  families  could  get  here  at  that  early  day,  we 
are  equally  proud  of  our  parentage," 

In  these  last  words,  indeed,  is  the  key-note  to  the 
success  of  the  Order,  which  was  organized  for  the  nm- 
tual  benefit,  mental  improvement  and  social  intercourse 
of  its  members;  to  perpetuate  in  the  minds  of  all  native 
Californians"  the  memories  of  the  days  of  '49,  to  unite 
them  in  one  harmonious  body;  tied  toyether  by  the 
bonds  of  friendship,  irrespective  of  individual  opinion  on 
religious  and  political  matters,  the  discussion  of  which 
is  not  allowed  at  the  meetings  of  the  Order, 

Thus  was  established  an  organization  v,'hich  was 
destined  to  exercise  a  decisive  influence  upon  the  state 
that  srave  it  birth,  and  to-day  it  is  regarded  as  one  of 
the  mainstays  of  California,  Its  members  include  pro- 
fessional men  of  all  branches;  lawyers,  physicians,  writers. 


'h' 


:U)2 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


hv  M !  ;i 


h» 


1 1. 


artists  and  others;  men  engaged  in  mercantile  pursuits, 
politicians,  bankers,  men  of  science  and  in  short  nearly 
every  branch  of  intelligent  occupation  is  represented 
anionijc  the  members  of  the  Native  Sons  of  the  Golden 
West.  And  among  them  are  so  many  bright  men 
whose  names  shine  in  larger  or  smaller  communities,  as 
their  chances  have  allowed  them,  that  it  would  be  im- 
possible here  to  enumerate  them,  and  in  mentioning 
a  few  it  must  be  understood  that  they  are  gathered  at 
I'andom,  like  the  flowers  plucked  from  a  bed  upon  all  of 
whicli  the  sun  throws  its  lustrous  light. 

One  of  the  brightest  men  of  the  order  is  undoubtedly 
Henry  Lunstedt,  the  present  Grand  Secretary,  who  is  a 
native  of  Tuolunnie  County,  V)ut  was  educated  in  San 
Francisco.  Mr.  Lunstedt  was  not  satisfied  with  the 
knowledge  he  gathered  at  school,  and  applied  his  leisure 
hours  to  diligent  study,  making  himself  aquainted  with 
the  literature  of  various  periods  and  countries  and  subse- 
quently becoming  a  writer  himself,  contributing  to  the 
colunms  of  local  papers  and  giving  interesting  accounts 
of  the  proceedings  of  the  organization.  He  was  one  of 
the  founders  of  the  order,  and  has  for  twelve  years  held 
the  exalted  office  he  now  occupies. 

This  fact  wnll  show  how  much  Mr.  Lunstedt's  services 
are  appreciated.  He  is  considered  not  only  a  man  of 
culture  and  learning,  but  also  of  action  and  excellent 
judgment.  He  exhibited  from  boyhood  up  a  predelictio!i 
for  public  life  and  has  for  years  served  with  competency 
and  credit  in  various  important  and  responsible  capaci- 
ties under  the  Municipal  Government  of  San  Francisco. 

He  is  essentially  a  man  of  the  world,  and  in  the  under- 
takin<«'s  on  which  his  enerofies  have  been  focussed,  he 
has  shown  phenomenal  strength  of  purpose  and  sound 
judgment. 


'F 


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HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


urn 


Mr  Lunstedt  i^'  a  Mason  of  the  Scottish  order, 
and  was  tlie  first  Native  Son  to  receive  the  thirtv-seeoiid 
deijree  of  this  fjimous  rite. 

In  Col.  Charles  F.  Crocker,  the  Golden  West  has  a 
fitting  representative  of  the  remarkable  energies  exhih- 
ited  in  the  State  of  California  at  the  period  when  his 
father  and  a  few  others  built  the  first  American  Rail- 
road which  made  transcontinental  traveling  possible. 
Col.  Crocker  was  born  in  Sacramento  in  1854,  and  v/as 
therefore  only  a  boy  when  the  great  engineering  work 
was  cari'ied  out,  but  he  inherited  his  father's  practical 
iudirment,  and  with  the  advantaiijes of  surroundinofs  ex- 
cellently  fitted  himself  for  the  high  position  he  now 
holds  as  First  Vice-President  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad  Company. 

Colonel  Crocker  received  a  liberal  education  both  at 
the  State  University  of  California  and  in  Germany, 
where  he  studied  for  several  vears,  and  also  attended  the 
Polvtechnic  Institute  in  Brooklvn,  New  York. 

Few  men  with  Colonel  Crocker's  advantages,  and  en- 
joying his  great  wealth,  are  as  retired  and  modest  as  he. 
But  he  has  won  a  name  as  an  excellent  manaixer  with 
irreat  executive  abilitv,  and  one  of  the  trustees  of  the 
Leland  Stanford  Junior  University,  the  order  rejoiced 
that  one  of  their  members,  so  representative,  had  been 
honored  with  the  call. 

As  a  Native  Son,  Colonel  Crocker  performed  most 
graceful  acts,  when  by  his  liberality  he  recently  saved 
the  Sutter  Fort  property  from  destruction,  and  thus  per- 
served  one  of  the  most  important  historical  monuments  of 
the  Golden  Sfate. 

Among  the  politicians  who  have  done  credit  to  them- 
selves and  the  far  we.^t,  is  Anthony  Caminetti,  who  now 
represents   the  Second  Congressional    District  of  Cah- 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


365 


fornia,  havino^  been  re-elected  at  tlie  last  ofeneral  election- 
He,  too,  has  worked  earnestly  in  the  interest  of  Cali- 
fornia history,  and  to  his  untirinof  efforts  is  due  the 
erection  of  the  John  Marshall  Monument.  During  '83 
and '84  as  an  Assemblyman  and  in  '86  as  a  State  Senator 
he  persistently  urged  the  matter  until  he  finally  ob- 
tained a  favorable  ap})ropriation  for  the  desired  statue. 
He  was  appointed  President  of  the  Marshall  Commission, 
and  as  President  of  the  Day,  delivered  an  eloquent  ad- 
dress at  the  unveiling  of  the  statue,  which  took  place  in 
May  '90. 

Mr.  Caminetti  is  a  lawyer  by  profession,  and  studied 
for  some  years  under  the  direction  of  the  late  United 
States  Senator,  James  T.  Farley.  He  has  established  a 
reputation  as  a  duent  speaker  and  sound  logician,  and 
possess  extraordinary    endurance    and  power  of    work. 

It  appears  that  law  has  had  a  particular  attraction 
for  the  Native  Sons  of  the  Golden  West,  and  many 
bright  and  prominent  lawyers  have  stepped  from  the 
parlor  of  the  order  into  the  bright  daylight  of  public 
renown.  They  have  indeed  done  credit  to  themselves 
and  the  bar  and  have  occupied,  or  do  at  present  occupy, 
many  prominent  positions  from  the  Judge's  seat  to  the 
lawyer,  who  eloquently  pleads  the  case  of  his  client. 

Among  those  who  have  especially  distinguished  them- 
selves should  be  mentioned,  Frank  L.  Combs,  who  is  a 
native  of  Napa,  and  who,  having  received  his  education 
at  the  public  schools,  finally  graduated  at  the  Colund)ia 
Law  College,  Washington,  D.  C.  Mr.  Combs  early 
distinguished  himself  as  an  orator  and  his  fine  natural 
talents  soon  broutjht  him  to  the  front.  In  1879  he  was 
elected  District  Attorney  of  Napa  County,  .succeeding 
himself  at  the  next  election,  and  in  1886  he  was  elected 
to  the  leyislature  and  served  two  terms.     He  soon  be- 


I 


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i 


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I    :: 


,1;    1   'I 


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i 


3r,(i 


HL'NTINC,    I'OR    COM) 


came  a  loader  iii  politics,  and  durini;'  the  Harrison  ad- 
ministration lie  was  sent  to  Japan  as  Minister  })leni[>o- 
tentiary  as  a  fittinL?  recognition  of  talent  well  applied. 

Jo  Davies  Sproul  was  born  in  Solano  County,  in  '59. 
His  father  was  a  pioneer  and  prominent  physician,  who 
removed  to  Chico  ten  years  after  the  birth  of  his  son. 
Young  Sproul  received  the  appointment  for  West  Point 
Military  Academy;  but  after  two  years' sojourn  there  he 
gave  up  the  idea  of  wielding  the  sword  and  returned  to 
take  up  the  study  of  law,  which  he  successfully  com- 
pleted under  the  guidance  of  F.  C.  Lusk,  the  leading- 
lawyer  of  Northern  California.  ThtJ  change  .suited  the 
former  aspirant  to  military  honors,  and  he  soon  gained 
a  lucrative  practice  and  hosts  of  friends. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  mend)ers  of  the  Order  of 
Native  Sons  is  h'rank  D.  Kyan.  Scarcely  thirty-four 
years  of  aixe:  he  has  already  been  sent  to  legislature  from 
Sacramento,  has  officinted  as  chief  clerk  of  the  assembly 
during  two  sessions  thereof  and  is  the  present  District 
Attorney  of  Sacramento  County.  Mr.  Ryan  is  als^  a 
member  of  the  Sutter  Fort  Commission  and  will  un- 
doubtedly prove  one  of  the  most  efficient  workers  in  that 
important  body. 

When  Hastin«'-'s  Law  Colloijfe  sent  out  John  T  Greanv 
a  younsf  man  went  into  i)ractice,  who  is  likely  to  reach 
the  top  of  the  ladder.  Mr  Gri.^any,  who  was  born  in  '60 
had  [)reviously  studied  at  St.  Mary's  College  and  taken 
the  degree  of  M.  A.  Shortly  after  he  was  admitted  to 
the  bar  he  was  intrusted  with  the  management  of  the 
famous  Blythe  estnte,  which  was  then  in  the  hands  of 
Philip  A.  Roach,  as  administrator.  While  in  this  im- 
portant position,  managing  an  estate  worth  several 
million  dollar*-;,  he  displayed  phenomenal  ability  as  an  ac- 
curate and  careful  steward,  and  when,  in  the  course  of 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


3G7 


time,  lie  i^ave  up  his  stevvardshi});  lie  was  IiIl^IiIv  roiii- 
ineiided  for  the  excellent  inaiiiier,  in  which  lie  had  pci- 
fornied  his    work. 

One  of  the  most  active  of  Native  Sons  is  Robert  M. 
Fitzo-erald,  who  was  born  in  San  Francisco  in  '08. 
Shortly  after,  his  parents  removed  to  Sonoma  County, 
and  later  on  to  Contra  Costa  County.  Mr.  Fitz^yeraid 
attended  the  Oakland  Hioh  School,  and  durinjj^  this 
early  period  of  his  life  he  was  called  upon  to  assist  his 
widowed  mother  and  before  graduating  spent  one  year 
on  her  farm,  manaofing  it  for  her.  He  then  returned 
to  school  and,  taking  up  his  studies  with  a  will,  was  ad- 
mitted to  the  State  University,  with  the  class  of  '83 

Mr.  F'itz'jerald  soon  gained  a  lucrative  practice  as  a 
lawyer  as  well  as  the  confidence  and  love  of  the  com- 
munity iu  which  he  lived.  Although  he  never  made  him- 
self conspicuous  as  a  politician,  lie  has  been  repeatedly 
called  upon  to  run  for  prominent  offices  and  was  on  the 
first  board  of  Commissioners  of  Public  Works  in  the  city 
of  Oakland,  California. 

Another  legal  light,  which  was  kindled  at  Hastings', 
College,  may  be  found  in  Marcellus  A.  Dorn.  He  is 
both  physically  and  intellectually  atypical  representative 
of  the  sturdy  Pioneer,  being  a  man  of  high  mental  at- 
tainments and  commanding  presence.  He  is  a  native  of 
Los  Anixeles  and  graduated  from  the  State  Universitv, 
and  ho  has  always  been  noted  for  his  fine  address  and 
more  than  ordinarv  power  of  oratorv. 

Among  the  Native  Sons,  who  went  abroad  for  their 
education  and  returned  home,  bent  upon  shc^wing  their 
splendid  achievements,  should  be  mentioned  Albert  F. 
Jones,  who  was  born  in  Colusa  County  in  '58  and  finished 
his  studies  at  Yale  University  in  1879.  That  same  year 
he  was  admitted  to  practice  in  the  Supreme  Courts  of 


I  !:! 


mm 


ms 


HUNTIN(i    FOR    (iOLD 


C()nnu(;tic'ut  and  California  and  in  "H'2  lie  was  cloctod 
District  Attorney  of  Butte  County,  where  he  has  resided 
since  1880.  He  was  afterwards  sent  ^o  tlie  State  Sen- 
ate and  became  Cliairnian  of  tLo  Judiciary  Committee, 
beinj^'  the  youn!j;est  man  whf)  ever  filled  that  iniportant 
position  in  the  California  legishiture.  Governor  Bart- 
lett  a|)pointed  him  Aitl-de-Canij)  with  the  rank  of  Lieuten- 
ant Colonel,  and  he  held  the  same  olHce  with  Governor 
Waterman. 

In  Yolo  County  there  was,  some  years  ai;o,  a  young 
plow  boy,  known  as  Charles  H.  Garoutte.  When  his 
day's  work  was  over  he  would  take  to  liis  books,  and, 
when  op[)ortunity  afforded  itself,  he  fref[U(>nted  the  state 
school,  studying  with  a  wonderful  Zealand  finally  obtain- 
'm<j:  a  colleiiiate  education  at  Hesperian  Colleure,  Wood- 
land.  He  taught  afterwards  in  the  public  schools,  do- 
voting  his  leisure  hours  to  the  study  of  law,  and  in  1H7G 
he  was  admitted  to  practice  by  the  Supreme  Court  of 
the  State.  The  following  year  he  was  elected  District 
Attorney  for  Yolo  County  and  was  re-elected  upon  the 
expiration  of  the  term.  He  finally  went  into  active 
practice  and  succeeded  in  gaining  the  good  will  and  re- 
sj)ect  of  the  comnmnity  to  such  a  degree  that  a  few  years 
after  he  was  elected  Judge  of  the  Su[»erior  Court  of  Yolo 
County,  being  the  youngest  Judge  on  the  entire  bench 
of  the  State.  In  this  office  also,  he  gained  the  confi- 
dence of  the  people  and  filled  it  with  credit  t>)  liimself 
and  to  the  satisfaction  of  his  constituents,  resulting  in 
his  final  elevation  to  the  Supreme  Court  bench. 

Durin^''  his  official  term  as  Judi^e  he  has  heard  some 
of  the  most  important  cases  ever  tried  in  the  State,  and 
as  a  member  of  the  order  of  Native  Sons,  he  enjoys  the 
m'and  distinction  of  having  broken  the  greatest  electoral 
deadlock,  known   in  the  annals  of  the  order.     In  188G» 


some 
3,  and 
s  tlie 
ctoral 

188G. 


X 

o 
y, 

> 

r, 


n 
o 

Tl  o 
>   00 


n 

r 


n 

"u-  X 

o 

> 

> 
71 


O  ^ 


o 


o 
o 

2; 


^W^W^«"^"^~W" 


II 


.'{70 


HITNTINf*.    I'OK    COhl) 


when  tlic  (;lraii(l  P;ulor  met  in  VVotxiluixl,  Ik;  was  a 
}.'rari(l  trustee;  and  (liH|»lay(Ml  marked  parliamentary  abil- 
ity, hy  reaHon  of  wliieli  lio  was  with  one  accord  Hcleeted 
to  disHolvo  tlie  trianj^ular  contest  for  th(;«(rand  vieo-pres- 
id(;ncy.  Hin  (;hoiee  for  the  place  was  made  by  an  unan- 
imous vote,  an(i  in  the  followin;^  year  lie  Ixcame  (^rand 
J^resident. 

As  has  IxM^n  already  shown  the  le<^al  fraternity  is  lib- 
erally represented  in  the  order  of  Native  Sons,  but  no 
memb(;r  <A'  it  rell<;cts  mon;  honor  upon  his  (dioscn  |)ro- 
fcssion  or  possesses  more  friends  and  admirers  than  does 
Krederi<;k  (J.  Clift,  who  was  born  in  C;}rass  Valley  in 
IHOZ.  Justice  (jlift  is  an  Oakland  lavvy(!rand  Maj^istrate, 
who  [)Ursued  his  studies  under  the  Lniidanco  ofNathaniel 
l>enn(;tt,  on(M)f  tlx^  J  udj^es  of  the  first  Su[)reme  Court  of 
(Jalifornia,  and  P.  D.  Wiurrintori,  an  ex-meml>er  of  Con- 
^aess.  In  IH'.H)  lu;  was  admitU.'d  to  th(^  bar  by  tlie  Su- 
j)reme  Court,  then  in  session  in  Sarrramento,  and  two 
years  after  he  was  <leeted  Justice  of  the  J*ea(;e  for  Oak- 
lan<l  Township  with  an  overwlujlmin^  majority. 

Althou^di  the  discussi(jn  of  politics  is  not  f)ermitt(;<J  in 
the  [)arlors  of  the  Order  of  Native  Sons,  it  will  be  ob- 
served, nevertheless,  that  the  members  take  a  lively  in- 
terest in  political  affairs. 

But,  it  should  b(;  observed,  that  the  Native  Sons  liave, 
at  all  times  end(;avored  as  far  as  [)ossible  to  jjurify  th<;ir 
jj^overnment.  In  a  younj^  <;ountry  as  a  matter  of  course, 
certain  elements  often  a[)f)ear  in  the  f)(;rsons  of  adven- 
turers and  other  undesirable  intruders,  who  wish  to 
take  advantaj^e  of  the  crude  circumstances  existiri<^,  arid 
raise  tliemselves  to  positi(»nf:  for  whicli  they  were  never 
<)Ualified.  When  the  pioneers  first  came  to  California, 
law  and  order  were  at  a  premium;  but,  as  the  Nativ(3 
Sons    grew   u[),  the  (.-ountry,  step  by  step,  assumed  the 


HUNTINd    l-iiH    (,OlA) 


:}7i 


liavo, 
Jicir 

irne, 
|V(;li- 
|i    to 

and 
lever 

piia, 

itive 
the 


hIiujm;  of  u  w(!ll  <)r<^ariiz(Ml  Stat(;,  and  in  tlnir  hands, 
nintc!  tlian  in  any  otiier.s  lias  l>oen  left  a  [irccious  trust, 
<if"  wliicli  tliev  ar(;  indeed  tiikin<f  <ro()d  (.'are. 

It  is  i!itere'stin<i  to  notiee  tlie  vi'^orous,  aiuJ  it  sliould 
l»e'  said  Kuc(!(!ssf'ui,  attempts  nijid(;  \>y  tlie  native  ele-nnMit 
to  introduJM;  in«!ans  tor  tlnj  furtherance  of  pure  pohties. 
('aiifornia  was  one  of  the  lirst  states  to  adopt  the' 
Australian  hallot  svstt.'ni,  and  (jve'rvthin""  is  helnLf  done 
in  the  State  for  the  j)urt)os<i  of  puttin;^  down  corrupt 
pnicticoH  in   htj^islaturi;. 

In  this  res[)(;ct  VV^illiajii  K,  1  learst  c(Mn<;s  proniin(;ntIy 
to  tin;  front  as  tin;  founder  mikI  jiroprietor  of  a  newspap(;r, 
which  from  first  to  last  has  fou;^ht  for  punj  principles. 
His  fatlnir,  the  late  lJnit(,'d  Stat(!H  Senator  Ifearst,  was 
oiKi  of  th(i  lucky  [)ion(j(;rH,  whos(j  wealth  (iuahhid  him  to 
satisfy  Um  cravini^s  of  his  and>itious  son.  Youn<c  II(;arst 
want(;d  a  n(;ws|>ap<!r  and  he  finally  etitahlished  the  San 
Kran(;isco  Daily  Kxainlnar,  which  as  a  ne\VK[)a[)er  enter- 
prise,rardcs  as  one  of  tli(j  first  in  the  States,  at  all  events  ' 
relatively  H[)eakinJ^^  'I'hrou^^h  its  columiiH  Mr.  Hearst 
lias  fou^rht  for  everythin;.,^  that  is  ri;^dit  and  just.  The 
s(diemin(^  [)olitician,  the  unscrupulous  mani[)ulator  of 
municipal  affairs,  the  man  in  [)ower,  who  ahuses  the  trust 
r«'posed  in  him — all,  in  fact,  who  (!vade  the  law  of  morals 
and  conscience,  have  iri  Mr.  Hearst  their  arch  foe. 
Arm(;d  with  a  most  jxjpular  and  wid(jly  circulated  pai>er, 
assisted  hy  an  arrrjy  of  talent(;d  m<ii,  he  [)ursues  the 
ofi'ender  to  the  hitter  end,  and  in  lej^islalure,  in  the 
courts  of  justice,  in  th(i  various  pul>lic  d('[)artnients  has 
the  Native  Son,  throuj^^h  William  Ji.  He-arstsenta  warn- 
ing call  to  all  evil  doers  who  att(.'m[)t  to  cast  a  blemish 
U[)or»  the  fair  name  of  (Jalifornia. 


At  the  time  of  writing;  this  two  other  nauK 

'  Uos< 


na 


suggest  thern.selves  to  my  mind  as  being  those  of  po 


bei 


turally 
>f  Doli- 


i 


r;  ii 


{■■< 


I  I 


il 


;':;!    !i 


'Ml 


HUN'riNr,    I'OK    OOLI) 


tunaiis  (if  tli(^  clear-cut  school.  '^I'licy  arc  Dr.  (IcorL^c  (J. 
Panh'c  of  Oijklajid  and  Levi  R.  Ellcrtof'Saii  Krancisco) 
each  ill  Ills  place  enjoying  the  honor  of  l)eini^  Mayor  of 
the  community  \n)  rcprcisents,  and  botli  elected  on  the  so- 
call(;d  citizens'  or  non-partisan  ticket. 

Tliis  ticket  is  tlu^  outcome  of  viL*'<>rous  attempts  to 
resist  dastardly  <)nslauj.^ht  on  pure  |)olitical  princi[)les, 
hroui^ht  about  hy  a  foreitni  element,  which  took  advantam? 
of  nati(jnal  ])oliti(;al  enthusiasm  to  work  some  hidden 
schemes  in  local  affairs. 

JiJut  these  two  Native  Sons  took  u|)  the  i)attle  for  the 
just  cause,  and  were  vi(;torious.  The  reason  is  obvious; 
they  had  tlie  sym[)atliy  of  the  native  element,  which 
recojjJiized  the  fact  that  their  affairs  nmst  be  ij^iven  into 
the  hands  of  riijjht  thinking'  men.  Mr.  Ellert  has  exten- 
sive l)usiness  interests  in  San  Fiancisco  and  has  h(;ld  im- 
portant ofHces  in  the  Order,  and  J)r.  Pardee  resides  in 
Oakland,  where  his  father  has  lived  for  many  years. 
He  is  lield  in  marked  esteem  for  his  personal  (|ualities, 
his  professional  attainments  and  his  integity  and  honesty 
of  purj)ose  in  all  that  lie  undertakes.  He  is  a  L''ra(luate 
from  the  State  University  and  afterwards  studied  in 
Germany,  where  he  made  ophthalmology  his  sj)ecialty. 

Ste})hen  M.  White,  another  Native  Son,  has  come 
j)rominently  to  tVc  front  as  a  true  patriot.  On  the  18th 
of  January,  '!).'},  he  was  elected  United  States  Senator, 
even  his  political  opponents  voting  for  liim.  His  own 
character  is  well  depicted  in  the  closing  words  of  his 
address,  when  he  said  :  "For  those,  who  opposed  me 
from  duty,  I  have  nothing  but  the  kindliest  feeling,  and 
for  those  who  opposed  me  from  other  motives,  this  liour 
is  my  triumph."  Tlie  Oakland  Enquirer,  a  paper  opposed 
to  White  in  politics,  but  an  advocate  of  pure  politics, 
wrote  about  his  election  :  "It  is  a  ijreat  deal  better  to 


IIUNTINC.    FOR   HOLD 


:}7;{ 


send  to  tli(!  Semite  a  niuii  like  White  witli  brains  in  liis 
head,  tlian  tn  i^lect  an  old  nioney-ha«jfs,who.s(!  (juahKcation 
consists  inertily  in  ,L«ivin^  }ii?r)0,000  to  a  canipaij^n  fund." 

Mr.  White's  career,  tliroughout,  Iims  heen  oik;  inces- 
Hant  triumpli.  lie  was  horn  in  San  Kraiicisro  hut  early 
removed  to  Los  Aiiu^eles.  He  inherited  J)(Mn()cratie 
sentiments  from  liis  father,  who  was  a  lawyer,  a  writer 
and  a  politician,  and  in '71)  was  nominated  for  (jiovernor  hy 
the  workinjjf  men,  YounL?  White  studied  law  and  early 
,i,^ained  a  n^putation  as  a  speaker  and  a  logician,  and  wli(;n 
he  en'ij;ai;ed  in  politics  rapidly  rose  to  distinction.  At 
th(!  time  of  (lovcTuor  Bartlett's  (h.-ath  White  was  Presi- 
dent of  the  Senat(3,  and  when  Wat(!rman  })ccame 
(lovernor,  he  took  the  ofHce  of  Ijieutenant  (governor. 
At  the  Democratic  National  Convention  in  St  Louis,  in 
'H8,  Stei)heu  M.  White  was  made  (chairman  of  the  Cou- 
v(!ntion,  pn»vin<»'  that  tlu^  appreciation  of  his  rare;  abilities 
ai'e  hy  no  means  local  hut  have  secured  for  him  a  liiL,di 
national  reputation. 

A  very  popular  man  amonj^  liis  many  a([uaintances  is 
J)r.  Charles  W.  ]Jecker,  who  has  met  with  nm<.-h  suc- 
cess in  liis  [)ra(;tice  as  a  dentist.  Dr.  Decker  is  a  nusm- 
her,  it  is  said,  of  more  orders  tliaii  any  other  Native 
Son,  and  has  made  himself  lx;st  known  as  the  author  of 
the  ritual  and  secret  work  under  which  the  order  lias 
now  been  governed  for  several  years. 

H.  C.  Chi[)man,  one  of  Sacramento's  })rominent  men, 
was  born  in  that  city  in  '5'}.  He  has  followed  the  trade 
of  a  Sign  painter  all  his  life,  but  his  rare  intelligence  has 
secured  for  him  public  honors,  of  which  lie  may  well  be 
proud.  For  three  successive  terms  Mr.  Chipman  held 
a  seat  on  the  B©ard  of  education,  where  he  did  some  ex- 
cellent work,  and  in  the  fall  '92  lie  was  elected  to  the 
assembly  to  represent  tlie  twenty-first  (Hstrict 


pi 


BMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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(iVi 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


374 


In  the  order  of  Native  Soiii, 
ways  been  particularly  active.  He  is  a  ciiarC^Wineniber 
of  Sacramento  Parlor,  No.  3,  and  attended  the  first 
Grand  Parlor  in  '82,  when  he  was  elected  Grand  Presi- 
dent, thus  being  the  first  upon  whom  that  exalted  office 
was  bestowed.  He  is  also  at  present  the  Senior  Past 
Grand  President,  and  expresses  his  appreciation  of  the 
Society  by  saying:  "I  have  never  thought  enough  of 
any  others  to  join  them;  the  Native  Sons  are  all  I  care 
for." 

If  there  be  a  class  of  men  upon  whom  the  welfare  of 
California  more  particularly  depends,  it  is  the  agricultu- 
ral, and  among  the  farmers  the  order  of  Native  Sons  is 
most  worthily  represented.  One  of  their  brightest 
members,  Thomas  Flint,  jr.,  whose  sterling  qualities  and 
peculiar  fitness  for  his  chosen  vocation  has  made  him  one 
of  California's  most  extensive  and  wealthy  farmers. 

Mr.  Flint  was  born  in  San  Benito  County,  and  has 
lived  there  most  of  his  life.  He  received  a  liberal  edu- 
cation at  Dartmouth  College,  New  Hampshire,  but  laid 
aside  his  books,  after  graduating,  in  order  to  follow  the 
pleasant  life  of  a  rural  occupation.  His  clear  judgment 
and  sound  sense  soon  attracted  the  attention  of  all  who 
came  in  contact  with  him.  He  was  one  of  the  most  ac- 
tive members  of  the  County  Board  of  Trade,  and  also 
has  a  seat  in  the  State  Board  of  Trade.  His  sterling 
qualities  secured  for  him  a  seat  in  the  Legislature, 
where  he  has  done  good  work,  and  he  is  spoken  of  by  all 
who  know  him,  as  a  man  generous  to  a  fault,  and  ever 
ready  to  give  his  fellow-man  the  benefit  of  his  own  ex- 
perience. In  the  order  of  Native  Sons,  Mr,  Flint  stands 
high,  and  no  one  is  more  devoted  to  its  cause  than  he, 
notwithstandinof  that  he  is  a  orominent  member  of  other 
important  orders 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


375 


The  year  1  left  California  for  British  Columbia  there 
was  born  in  Yuba  County  a  boy  whose  future  career 
testifies  to  the  sterling  qualities  with  which  he  had  been 
endowed  at  his  birth.  His  name  is  Fred  H.  Greely,  he 
is  a  native  of  Galena  Hill,  and  no  one  more  truly  depicts 
the  full  vigor  of  the  youth  of  the  California  soil.  After 
graduating  at  the  Marysville  High,  School  he  went 
east  and  finished  his  studies  at  the  Maine  Wesley  an 
Seminary,  at  Keats  Hill,  Me.,  where  he  gradua^ted  in 
1880. 

But  Mr.  Greely's  mind  was  bent  upon  mercantile 
pursuits,  and  upon  his  return  to  the  Yuba  he  took  up 
his  residence  in  Marysville,  where  he  obtained  an  en- 
gagement as  Secretary  to  the  Buckeye  Flour  Mills  with 
which  he  has  been  identified  ever  since.  It  was  not  long 
ere  his  fellow  citizens  fully  recognized  his  superior  qual- 
ifications for  the  prominent  oflSces  in  their  community, 
and  in  1886  he  was  elected  Mayor  of  Marysville  and 
filled  this  position  with  credit  to  himself  and  satisfaction 
to  his  townsmen. 

Two  years  after  he  contested  with  Congressman 
Berry  for  the  Senatorship  of  the  twelfth  District,  which 
had   become   vacant  by  the  death   of  A.  L.  Chandler. 

Once  more  his  many  friends  rallied  to  his  support,  and 
he  was  sent  to  the  post  of  honor  with  a  handsome  ma- 
jority. Mr.  Greely  comes  of  the  real  old  pioneer  stock, 
the  early  settlers  in  the  wilderness  of  California,  whose 
energies,  perseverance  and  undaunted  courage  made  it 
possible  for  others  to  follow  in  their  foot-prints,  and 
build  the  cities  where  stood  before  the  canvas  tents. 

Another  Native  Son,  who  has  engaged  in  mercantile 
pursuits  is  Robert  P.  Wieland.  He  inherited  from  his 
father  a  large  fortune,  but  also  a  temperament  which  did 
not  allow  him  to  take  any  undue  advantage  of  the  favors 


370 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


thrust  upon  him  by  the  fickle  Dame.  He  is  modest, 
unpretentious  and  generous,  and  is  noted  for  bis  splendid 
business  talents  and  sound  common  sense. 

After  leaving  school  he  attended  Heald's  Business 
College,  and  subsequently  graduated  from  a  business 
college  in  Louisville,  Kentucky.  Upon  his  return  home 
he  at  once  entered  upon  active  duty  in  the  Philadelphia 
Brewery,  as  shipping  clerk,  and  is  now  the  senior  raen\ber 
of  that  extensive  establishment. 

Few  men  possess  greater  business  abilities  and  activity 
than  M.  Wieland.  Besides  the  important  position  he 
holds  in  his  own  firm,  he  is  President  of  the  California 
Bottling  Company,  President  of  the  A.  Folsom  and 
Company,  a  big  carriage-building  concern,  and  Vice- 
president  of  the  Clinton  Consolidated  Mining  Company, 
of  which  his  brother  Charles  is  President.  But  in  ad- 
dition to  all  this,  he  is  widely  identified  with  fraternal 
organizations  and  other  institutions.  He  is  a  member 
of  every  German  fraternal  order  is  San  Francisco,  of 
several  Masonic  Fraternities,  and  is  a  life  member  of  the 
Olympic  Club.  He  is  also  Lieutenant  in  the  Light 
Battery  A,  N.  G.,  and  holds  a  commission  as  Second 
Lieutenant  in  the  California  Drill  Corps. 

As  a  member  of  the  order  of  Native  Sons,  Mr.  Wie- 
land has  enjoyed  many  distinctions,  the  foremost  of  all, 
perhaps,  being  the  great  popularity  he  has  achieved 
among  his  associates. 

Among  those  of  the  Native  Sons  who  have  distin- 
guished themselves  whilst  holding  public  office,  should 
be  mentioned  John.  A.  Grady  He  was  born  in  San 
Francisco  in  '52  and  is  among  the  patriarchs  of  the  Order, 
and  no  one  has  worked  more  zealously  for  its  advance- 
ment than  he.  He  assisted  in  organizing  the  first  Grand 
Parlor  and  was  afterwards  elected  the  first  Grand  Presi- 


If 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


377 


dent.  In  the  public  departments  Mr.  Grady  has  served 
terms  as  Tax-collector  of  San  Francisco,  and  also 
as  Deputy  State  Treasurer,  and  in  both  offices  he  has 
proved  himself  a  man  of  integrity  and  sound  business 
management,  reflecting  great  credit  upon  his  administra- 
tion of  public  atiairs. 

I  cannot  here  pass  by  the  memory  of  one  who  was 
dear  to  all  who  knew  him — the  late  Frank  J.  Higgins, 
who  died  in  San  Francisco  on  the  3d  of  January,  1889, 
after  a  most  active  life,  in  which  he  used  his  best  efforts 
and  energies  in  the  public  service  and  for  the  benefit  of 
the  order  of  Native  Sons. 

Mr.  Higgins  was  for  many  years  a  special  revenue  of- 
ficer, stationed  in  San  Diego,  where  his  native  affability 
secured  him  nianv  friends.  He  lived  there  durino;  the 
good  days  of  Southern  California,  and  accumulated  quite 
a  fortune  through  careful  management  and  judicious  in- 
vestment, and  his  early  death  was  a  grief,  not  only  to 
his  fellow-members  of  the  Order,  but  to  all  who  had  en- 
joyed business  or  friendly  relations  with  him  during  his 
very  active  life. 

Mr.  Higgins  was  born  in  Tuolumne  County  and  was 
educated  in  San  Francisco.  He  was  a  life-long  friend  of 
Grand  Secretary  Lunstedt,  a  charter  member  of  the  Or- 
der, and  one  of  its  early  Presidents.  At  his  funeral  was 
expressed,  in  many  fitting  ways,  the  great  esteem  in 
which  he  was  held,  and  the  sorrow  that  his  death 
broutjht  to  the  hearts  of  all  who  knew  him.  But  his 
memory  is  garlanded  with  the  flowers  that  never  fade — 
the  immortelles  of  love,  and  friendship,  and  respect. 

I  have  now,  to  the  best  of  ray  ability,  brought  out"  the 
native  element  of  the  Golden  West,  in  its  brightest  col- 
ors. I  would  not  presume  to  say  that  outside  the  Order 
to  which  I  refer,  this  element  does  not   distinctly  exist, 


^ir 


i'K 


378 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


nor  do  I  even  know,  for  certain,  that  everybody  I  have 
mentioned  here,  belono-s  to  the  brotherhood.  But 
it  must  be  conceded  that  this  fraternity  of  Native  Sons 
is  productive  of  much  good,  and  if,  as  an  old  pioneei,  aiy 
opinion  is  worthy  of  notice,  I  would  urge  upon  all  the 
desirability  of  joining  an  organization  which  holds  to- 
gether so  many  excellent  forces,  and  is  established  witli 
such  a  noble  aim. 

I  have  shown,  too,  the  presence  within  its  limits,  of 
representatives  from  nearly  all  walks  of  life.  The  far- 
mer, the  merchant,  the  physician,  the  lawyer,  the  edi- 
tor, the  artisan,  the  politician,  and  I  presume  it  would 
be  possible  to  follow  this  up  until  all  and  everybody  has 
been  included  in  the  ranks  of  the  Order.  When  I  re- 
flect upon  the  establishment  of  this  society,  and  review 
the  part  that  the  native  element  has  taken  in  moulding 
the  State  into  its  present  shape,  I  am  bound  to  admit 
that  the  foresight  of  General  Winn  was  keen,  and  the 
realization  of  his  pet  dream  was  a  most  fortunate  event  in 
the  history  of  this  State.  I  began  my  book  by  describ- 
ing the  early  days  of  California,  and  it  is  but  fitting  that  in 
closing  it,  I  should  pay  a  tribute  to  those  whose  patri- 
otic enthusiasm  has  helped  so  much  towards  establish- 
iniif  and  ortranizino;  the  Golden  State.  "In  union  there 
is  strength,"  is  an  old  but  true  saying,  and  it  is  by  re- 
membering this,  that  the  Native  Sons  of  California  will 
ultimately  succeed  in  raising  this  to  one  of  the  foremost 
States,  pursuing  their  onward  march,  but  revering  as 
they  advance,  the  milestones  left  behind  them,  not  for- 
getting the  very  first  one  raised  by  the  early  pioneers. 


SOMK  OF 


MY 


EARLY  FRIENDS. 


379 


DAN  T.  COLE. 

There  is  probably  no  man  identified  with  the  early 
days  of  pioneer  settlers  on  the  river  Yuba,  who  has  come 
more  prominently  to  the  front,  than  Dan  T.  Cole,  at 
present  a  member  of  the  board  of  Harbor  Commissioners. 
But  notwithstanding  this,  there  is  no  man  occupying  a 
high  office  or  holding  a  responsible  position,  more 
modest  than  Mr.  Cole.  He  is  a  thorough  American 
and  to-day  more  proud,  by  far,  of  the  liours  he  has 
spent  in  hard  work  and  honest  sweat,  thaii  he  is  of  the 
greatest  distinction  thrust  upon  him  by  an  appreciative 
Executive  who  recognized  his  worth  and  ability. 

Mr.  Cole  is  a  native  of  the  state  of  Vermont  and 
came  to  Sacramento  in  the  year  '52.  After  a  sojourn 
of  three  years  in  that  city,  he  spent  one  year  in  Alvarado, 
and  then  removed  to  Sierra  County,  where  he  has  re- 
sided most  of  the  time  since,  his  home,  "Mountain 
House,"  being  well  known  to  a  large  circle  of  friends. 

Mr.  Cole  is  an  ardent  Republican.  For  thirty  years 
he  has  been  a  delegate  to  the  State  Convention,  and 
last  year  he  was  sent  as  a  representative  to  the  National 
Republican  Convention,  held  at  Minneapolis, 

Mr.  Cole  owns  large  property  interests  in  Yuba 
County,  and  is  one  of  the  directors  of  the  Northern  Cal- 
ifornia Bank  of  Savings  in  Marysville.  He  is  also 
largely  interested  in  hotel  and  mill  property  in  Yuba 
County,  and  about  four  years  ago  he  invested  largely  in 


380 


carlv 
scome 
ole,  at 
ioners. 
yiiiL*;  a 

more 
lericaii 
le  has 
of  the 
ciative 

t  and 
ojourn 
arado, 
has  re- 
uiitain 

lends. 

years 
>n,  and 
ational 

Yuba 
n  Cal- 
s   also 

Yuba 
;ely  in 


W^a[  ^'^ 


r  ■  ' 


/r.  (^4>oJ^ 


Wt, 

ifcte. 

^^SBm:-  •        • 

r  ??!?-'""-'" 

jA 

■y^Ms^^t^  .^ji 

V 

r 

pfefS 

' 

« 

( 


1 


w 


882 


HUNTING   FOR   GOLD 


!?; 


real  estate  in  San  Francisco,  expending  about  $G0,000 
on  buildings  in  that  city,  where  ,ue  now  resides. 

During  many  years  of  incessant  activity  Mr.  Cole  has 
been  engaged  in  staging,  saw-milling,  mining  and  team- 
ing, and  for  ten  years  he  was  a  member  of  the  board  of 
Supervisors  of  Sierra  County.  At  the  time  when  his 
appointment  as  Harbor  commissioner  was  rumored,  his 
enemies  foolishly  tried  to  besmirch  his  character  by 
publishing  that  he  had  been  a  stage-driver.  As  a  mat- 
ter of  fact  Mr.  Cole  never  drove  a  stasfo  himself,  but  he 
is  the  last  man  to  blush  at  the  idea  of  having  handled 
the  reins  in  the  pursuit  of  an  honest  living,  and  the 
accusation,  false  as  it  was,  ratherer  flattered  than 
annoyed  him. 

Referring  to  Mr.  Cole's  appointment  to  the  Board  of 
Harbor  Connnissioners  the  Marysville  Democrat  remarks 
under  date  of  January,  16,  '93:  "His  appointment  will  be 
received  with  general  satisfaction,  and  he  will  be  found  an 
efficient  and  honest  official,  who  will  at  all  times  stay 
with  the  people  and  oppose  boodle  measures,  whether  in 
the  office  he  fills,  or  in  the  attempt  to  force  an  unfit  man 
on  to  the  people  of  California  in  the  office  of  United 
States  Senator." 

This  comes  from  a  paper  opposed  in  politics  to  Mr. 
Cole,  but  having  known  him  personally  for  many  years, 
and  the  high  opinion  expressed  for  the  Commissioner  in 
these  lines,  is  well  backed  by  all  who  know  him  and 
have  had  an  opportunity  to  watch  him  in  his  private  and 
public  life.  In  both  spheres  Mr.  Cole  enjoys  the  high- 
est regard  and  it  would  not  be  out  of  place  here  to 
mention  that  he  is  blessed  with  a  home  where  a  model 
wife,  who  has  stood  by  him  during  his  years  of  struggle, 
presides  over  a  family  circle  in  which  he  is  considered 
the  best  of  fathers  and  a  most  devoted  husband. 


jO,000 


)le  has 
teaiii- 
ard  of 
en  his 
ed,  his 
tor  by 
a  mat- 
but  he 
landled 
ud  the 
1    than 

oard  of 

emarks 

:  will  be 

)und  an 

es  stay 

ther  in 

fit  man 

United 

I  to  Mr. 

years, 
loner  in 
[im  and 
late  and 
|e  high- 

lere   to 
model 

;ruggle, 

sidered 


GEOKGE  C.  PERKINS. 

No  man  is  better  known  tiiroughout  the  State  of  Cal- 
ifornia than  George  C.  Perkins,  and  it  safe  to  say  that 
none  is  more  highly  esteemed  in  the  Golden  State.  In 
saying  so,  one  may  not  fear  being  accused  of  empty  fiat 
tery,  but  rather,  perhaps,  of  having  expressed  too  inade- 
quately the  great  worth  of  a  most  excellent  man. 

Mr.  Perkins  arrived  in  California  from  his  home  in 
New  England,  in  the  fall  of  1855.  At  that  time  he 
was  a  beardless  youth,  but  had,  nevertheless,  seen  much 
of  the  \vt)rld  as  a  sailor,  having:  made  his  first  vovaoje  as 
a  cabin-boy  when  only  twelve  years  of  age.  A  few  days 
after  his  arrival  here  he  went  to  Sacramento,  by  schoon- 
er, and  saw  for  the  first  time  the  city  in  which  he  should 
afterwards  play  a  part  entrusted  to  only  the  highest  offi- 
cers of  the  State.  From  Sacramento  he  \valked  to  Oro- 
ville,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles,  and  displayed  that 
energy  and  persistency  which  gave  the  impetus  to  his 
splendid  career. 

At  that  time  his  resources  were  few,  but  his  enter- 
prise and  ambition  were  great.  He  first  followed  min- 
ing, and  afterwards  teaming  and  lumbering,  but  not  be- 
ingr  satisfied  with  the  small  remuneration  he  received 
for  his  labors,  he  finally  engaged  in  mercantile  pursuits 
as  a  clerk  in  the  store  of  Hedley  &  Knight.  Here  he 
laid  the  foundation  to  rapid  advancement.  He  became 
instrumental  in  establishing  the  Bank  of  Butte  County, 
built  the  Ophir   Flour   Mill,  and  also  became  interested 


!■! 


I 


38:! 


m 


-%(      ^-^- 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


385 


ill  ininnit,',  sawmills  and  .slieep-turuiing.  Ho  throve  won- 
derfully, and  the  success  of  his  various  enterprises  not 
only  redounded  t(^  his  own  advantage,  but  added  to  the 
Wealth  of  the  entire  country. 

No  wonder,  then,  that  Mr.  Perkins  soon  became  a 
very  popular  man.  In  addition  to  his  rare  abilities  as  a 
business  man,  he  was  po.ssesscd  of  many  personal  traits 
which  endeared  him  to  a  large  circle  of  frietids,  and  at 
their  earnest  solicitation  ho  entered  the  political  arena 
on  the  Re[)ublican  side,  being  also  hero  destined  to  meet 
with  un(iualifiod  success.  He  became  a  State  Senator, 
and  during  his  stay  at  the  Capital,  formed  a  friendship 
with  Captain  Go(jdall,  of  San  Francisco,  the  result  of 
which  was  the  formation  of  the  firm  of  Goodall,  Perkins 
&  Co.,  which  to-day  is  one  of  the  leading  shipping  en- 
terprises of  the  coast,  and  it  may  be  said,  of  the  world. 

Mr.  Perkins'  rise  to  the  gubernatorial  office  was  the 
crowning  success  of  his  life,  showing  by  a  tremeridous 
majority  the  great  confidence  which  the  people  of  Cali- 
fornia repose  in  him.  Mr.  Perkins  is  a  member  of  many 
orders;  he  is  a  prominent  Free  Mason,  and  is  foremost 
in  a  number  of  charitable  societies.  In  opening  up  a 
steady  trade  between  San  Francisco  and  Alaska,  Mr. 
Perkins  became  the  Pioneer  who  made  it  possible  for 
the  business  man  and  traveler  alike,  to  visit  that  inter- 
esting land  w^ith  comfort  and  at  a  small  expense,  and  his 
splendid  line  of  steamers,  calling  at  Alaskan  ports,  is 
not  only  one  of  his  largest  enterprises,  but  is  probably 
the  one  which  is  most  universally  known  and  appre- 
ciated. 


880 


IIUNTINC,    FOR    COM) 


I 


t!' 


i 


Ml   > 


i  ! 


li. 


! ; 


\\> 


ii ' 


!!> 


JAMES  W.  ORNDORFF. 

Among  tlie  Pioneers  of  California,  none,  perliups,  is 
more  popular  than  James  W,  Orndorff,  the  [)roprietor  of 
the  Cafe  lloyal,  in  the  Flood  Building,  Market  street, 
San  Francisco.  Mr,  Orndorff  came  to  this  State  in  'r)2, 
from  Zanesville,  Ohio.  He  is  of  good  old  American 
stock,  of  German  and  Irish  descent,  but  both  sides  of  his 
family  have  been  Anrcricans  for  generations. 

Arriving  in  the  Golden  State,  the  subject  of  this 
sketch  at  once  turned  his  attention  to  mining,  and  chose 
the  Yuba  gold  field  for  his  first  prospecting  operations, 
remaining  for  ten  years  in  various  parts  of  that  locality. 
In  Sierra  County  in  1854,  he  put  in  the  first  hydraulic 
pipe  made  of  sheet  iron.  It  was  a  primitive  affair  and 
would  compare  badly  with  present  appliances  for  the 
same  purposes,  but  it  did  its  work  nevertheless.  During 
those  years  Mr.  Orndorff  was  more  in  particular  identi- 
fied with  Grizzly  Hill,  in  Sierra  County;  and  he  went 
through  all  the  hardships  of  early  mining  in  those  regions. 

In  18G3  Mr.  Orndorff  removed  to  Virginia  City,  and 
spent  seventeen  years  on  or  about  the  famous  Comstock 
mines,  partly  engaged  in  practical  mining  and  at  other 
times  cateriuix  to  the  amusement  and  comforts  of  his 
fellow  men.  Thus  he  was  atone  time  an  overseer  in  the 
Fairvicw  mine,  while  at  another  he  conducted  the  Ash- 
land Hotel.  He  also  ran  the  Billiard  Rooms  at  the 
Washoe  Hotel,  where  congregated  in  those  days  all  the 
men  of  note,  a  motly  gathering,  representing  many  na- 
tionalities and  as  o-reat  a  varietv  of  characters. 

While  in  Virginia  City  he  took  a  prominent  interest 
in  everything  appertaining  to  the  fire  department.  He 
was  Foreman  of  Company  No.  I,  and  afterwards  of  Com- 
pany No.  6,  which  he  helped  to  organize;  and  his  popu- 
larity in  that  community  may  be  judged  from   the   fact 

38G 


terest 

Ho 

Com- 


.:  I 


!l 


388 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


that  he  was  twice  elected  an  Alderman  of  the  city.  He 
is  now  an  honored  ineiiiber  of  the  Veternau  Firemen  of 
San  Faancisco,  but  strancrelv  enoucfh  does  not  otherwise 
belong  to  any  fraternity  or  order. 

As  a  business  man  Mr.  Orndorff  has  been  successful, 
principally  owing  to  his  natural  attractions,  his  sound 
judgment  of  men  and  circumstance,  and  his  even  temper- 
ament. He  is  supposed  to  be  second  to  none  as  an 
amateur  billiardist  and  has  always  taken  a  remarkable 
interest  in  that  game.  He  originated  the  idea  of  the 
})atent  pool  table,  with  every  ball  into  a  common  box 
after  passing  the  pocket,  and  he  had  the  first  table  of  the 
kind  built,  which  may  yet  be  seen  at  the  Billiard  room 
of  the  Baldwin  Hotel,  San  Francisco.  But  in  all  other 
spor{s  IVfr.  Orndorfl  has  always  taken  particular  interest, 
and  from  his  very  youth  he  hae  been  ever  ready  to  make 
matches  tending  to  the  elevation  of  sports. 

Mr.  Orndorff  is  a  great  lover  of  i.nimals  and  is  one  of 
the  best  read  authorities  on  poulty  in  the  state.  He  is 
also,  a  collector  of  curios  and  has  a  very  interesting  mu- 
seum at  his  place  of  business.  He  is  a  very  pleasant 
companion  and  his  affability  is  calculated  to  make  many 
friends  for  him,  which,  indeed  has  been  amply  demon- 
strated through  the  many  years  of  incessant  activity,  he 
has  spent  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  No  doubt  there  are 
many,  who,  reading  this,  will  remember  with  pleasure 
their  stalwart  friend  from  ahe  Gold-fields,  and  rejoice  at 
once  more  hearing  of  Genial  "Jim"  Orndorff. 


I! 


ire 
at 


HON.  EDvGAR  DUDNEY. 

Edgar  Dudney  arrived  in  British  Columbia  in  the 
earlv  dayts.  He  was  educated  as  a  civil  en<{ineer,  and 
turned  his  knowledge  of  tliis  profession  to  good  account 
immediately  on  his  arrival  in  the  new,  and  then  mostly 
unknown,  country. 

There  are  few  men  who  have  more  thoroughly  ex- 
plored the  mountainous  regions  of  British  Columbia, 
than  has  Mr.  Dudney.  As  a  prospector  and  surveyor 
he  penetrated  early  into  many  then  unknown  quarters, 
and  located  mining  claims  in  the  interior  of  the  colony 
as  the  roads  thither  gradually  became  o]iened,and  in  this 
regard  much  credit  is  also  due  to  Mr.  Dudnev  as  a 
gentleman  w4iose  efforts  helped  to  bring  about  final 
settlement  of  laruje  and  uninhabited  tracts  of  land. 

As  a  result  of  his  explorations,  Mr.  Dudney  acquired 
an  extensive  knowledge  of  the  nature  and  requirements 
of  the  country,  and  paid  particular  attention  to  the 
condition  of  the  natives,  wlierefore,  also,  Sir  John  Mc- 
Donald was  pleased  to  offer  him  a  portfolio  in  his  cabinet 
as  minister  of  Indian  affairs,  and  in  this  position  Mr. 
Dudney  rendered  his  country  important  services,  and 
proved  himself  an  able  administrator. 

The  final  success  in  Mr.  Dudnev's  career  was  achieved 
when  Her  Britanic  Majesty  appointed  him  Governor  of 
the  colony,  an  office  which  he  still  holds.  In  this  capac- 
ity Mr.  Dudney  has  proved  himself  worthy  of  the  trust 


3ft'.t 


V  ; 


iv 


'i 


m 


I 


^     /d-^^C<r^7x.^£t^^ 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


891 


reposed  in  him,  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular  Governors 
that  ever  conducted  the  affairs  of  tlie  colony.  Notwith- 
standmg  he  is  the  last  of  the  number,  he  is  generally 
known  as  the  Pioneer  Governor,  because  of  the  many 
services  he  rendered  the  pioneers  in  the  early  days  and 
It  IS  safe  to  say  that  among  th<3m  he  is  held  in  partic- 
ular esteem,  and  they,  perhaps,  more  than  any  other 
class  of  men,  appreciate  those  sterling  qualities  which 
have  brought  him  to  the  honorable  post  he  now  occu- 
pies. 


ml  n'f' 


iml 


ROBERT  DUNSMUIR. 

As  early  as  1849,  Robert  Duiisnmir,  left  Ayrshire,  in 
Scotland,  under  an  engagement  with  tlie  Hudson  Bay 
Company.  He  settled  in  Nanaimo,  Vancouver  Island, 
as  Superintendent  of  the  local  branch  of  this  extensive 
Company,  and  soon  achieved  universal  popularity. 

Besides  proving  himself  a  business  man  of  rare  ability, 
Mr.  Dunsmuir  also  engaged,  from  the  very  start,  in 
various  kinds  of  philanthropic  movements,  gaining  a 
host  of  friends  by  his  generous  and  charitable  disposition. 

One  of  Mr.  Dunsnmir's  first  ventures  was  prospecting 
for  coal.  In  his  native  country  he  had  learned  enough 
about  the  black  diamond  to  appreciate  its  value,  and 
recognized  its  existence  wherever  found,  and  it  was, 
therefore,  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  he  met  with  un- 
qualified success  in  a  country,  which  is  rich  in  coal. 

He  gradually  extended  his  speculation,  and  bought  ex- 
tensive mines  in  Union,  Komax  District,  which  proved 
a  most  profitable  speculation. 

Later  on,  Mr.  Dunsmuir  built  the  Esquimalt  and 
Nanaimo  N.  G.  R.  11.,  which  became  a  very  payable 
concern,  and,  indeed,  is  a  great  acquisition  to  the  country 
through  which  it  passes. 

But  the  crowning  success  of  Mr.  Dunsmuir's  life  was 
when  he  secured  a  larsfe  interest  in  the  Wellino^ton 
coal  mines,   situated    at    Wellington,  above     Nanaimo. 

392 


'11;^ 


ROBERT    DUNSMUIR. 


1 

K 

HI 

■f 

1 

: 

1 

■ 

t 

1 
If'' 

I'; 


804 


HUNTING    FOR    GOLD 


There  an:  few  people  in  America  who  have  not  heard  of 
tlie  product  turned  out  so  extensively  at  these  mines, 
and  upon  the  death  of  Mr.  Kobert  Dunsnmir,  his  eldest 
son,  Alexander,  became  the  head  of  the  business,  and  is 
now  conductinof  the  local  depot  for  California  in  Sau 
Francisco. 

The  recollection  of  the  subject  of  this  brief  sketch  is 
dear  to  all  who  knew  him,  and  none  of  his  old  friends 
can  read  this  tribute  to  his  memory,  without  remember- 
ing a  good  man,  a  faithful  friend  and  a  thorough  bus- 
iness man. 


!i 


ff 


WILLIAM    IRWIN. 

Ainoiiix  the  men  who  have  donei^ood  and  lioncst  work 
for  Cahfornia,  that  of  Wiihaiii  Irwin  is  inscribed  upon 
one  of  the  foremost  pages  of  the  history  of  this  State. 

Mr.  Irwin  was  a  native  of  Ohio,  and  devoted  his 
youth  to  a  college  education  and  the  study  of  law,  which 
excellently  fitted  him  for  the  important  positions  which 
he  afterwards  held. 

In  the  year  1852,  being  then  twenty-six  years  of 
ayje,  Mr.  Irwin  came  to  California,  and  at  once  enifaiifed 
In  practical  business  is  Siskiyou  County.  He  led  a  most 
active  life,  and  was  successively  a  bulcher,  a  miner,  the 
the  owner  of  a  livery  stable,  and  afterwards,  of  a  line  of 
stage-coaches,  finally  becoming  proprietor  of  the  Yreka 
Union,  which  he  raised  to  one  of  the  most  important 
country  papers  in  the  State. 

In  1861  he  was  elected  to  the  Assembly,  from  Siski- 
you, and  although  he  served  only  one  term,  this  was 
the  beginning  of  a  long  and  important  public  career.  In 
1869  he  was  elected  to  the  Senate,  and  upon  the  expira- 
tion of  his  term,  was  re-elected,  being  chosen  during  the 
latter  term,  President  pro  tern.  During  that  period 
Governoor  Booth  was  elected  United  States  Senator, 
and  was  sueceedded  by  Lieutenant  Governor  Pacheco, 
while  William  Irwin  became  Lieutenant  Governor  by 
virtue  of  his  position  as  President  pro  tern  of  the  Senate. 

In  1875  Mr.  Irwin  was  elected  Governor  of  the  State, 


I 


I 


EX  GOVERNOR    IRWIN. 


HUNTING    FOR   GOLD 


;m)7 


and  ill  1883,  while  Stoiieinan  was  Governor,  he  was  ap- 
pointed to  a  seat  on  tlie  State  Harhor  C(MMinission, 
servin«4  tlie  four-year  term.  While  holdinir  this  office  he 
became  sick,  and  expired  on  March  loth,  1880,  at  Hotel 
Bella  Vista,  thus  endinj^  a  useful  career  and  leavinjjf  a 
spotless  reputation,  and  the  memory  of  one  who  always 
did  his  duty  conscienciously  and  fearlessly. 

Durini^  Governor  Irwin's  incundjency,  the  act  to  take 
the  po[)ular  vote  on  the  Chinese  question,  was  passed, 
being  approved  by  him  8eptend)er  21st,  1877.  At  the 
general  election  in  Septend)er  187*J,  the  result  showed 
for  Chinese  immigration  8.S3  votes,  and  against  it  154,- 
638.  This  was  probably  the  most  important  measure 
enacted  during  his  term  of  office,  and  was,  so  to  speak, 
the  first  ster)  towards  the  realization  of  the  now  famous 
Geary  Exclusion  Act. 


I 


•I 

i 


WA 


COTS-TENTB. 


CALIFe^IiXIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Introductory  Remark.s-At  Home  in  Scotlaud-First  Voyage 
"--A  Sailor  on  the  Lakes-Lumber  trade  in  Buffalo-The 
Cxold  Fever-Round  the  Horn-Sun  Francisco— Expen- 
sive Dinners-The  CUoriou.  Fourth-Generous  Gamblers 
— J^un  With  the  Immi^n-antK. 

CHAPTKll  II. 

On  Board  the  Milwaukee-Xo  Clearance  Papers-Going  Up 
the  River— Sacramento— Teamsters  Talk— Off  For  The 
Yuba— First  Experience— War  Upon  Foreigners— A  Si- 
lent Friend- Store  Keeping— Lumpy  Gold-Re&tless- 
Foster's  Bar-Sick  Men  With  Great  Appetites-In  Search 
Of  a  Partner. 

CHAPTER  III. 

Off  for  the  Mines  Again— The  Earlv  Discovery  of  Gold-1 
Free  Mason  of  1820-An  Interesting  Document  in  San 
Francisco-Did  the  Priests  Hold  the  Secret?-Captain 
VV.  H.  Thomas'  Account— Under  the  Wild  Onions— "Cut 
Eye"  Foster-A  Sickly  Man  from  Massachusetts-Jim 
Crow  IS  Introduced-Over  the  Range-Facing  the  Wilds.     27 

CHAPTER  ly. 

Through  the  Woods-Meeting  Two  Grizzlies-Across  the 
River  in  a  Hurry-McNair's  Island-The  Color  of  Gold- 
Ov.    the  Ridge-We- strike  the  Rivei—A  Noise  in  the 

899 


15 


400 


CONTENTS 


Bushes — Roiiiul  the  Point — A  Scene  that  (Charmed  Us — 
The  Forks  at  Last — Sullen  Miners — Moving  Cami^ — Mules 
on  the  Hillside — Camped  on  the  Yuba — Reminiscences  of 
Philo  Haven.  37 

CHAPTER  V. 

Down  to  Business — A  Fish  Story — Lead  Weights  and  Brass 
Weights — Cre vicing — Breyfogle  Flat — A  Mule  in  a  Hor- 
nets'Nest — Mamoo  the  Egyptian — A  Negro  from  Virginia 
— Rich  Finds — Treacherous  Friends — Mr.  John  Potter — 
Flour  Worth  More  Than  Gold— A  Very  Sick  Man— On 
the  Site  of  Dovvnieville.  47 


■  m 


m 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Death  of  a  Friend — Andrew  Goodyear — Bone  Soup — At  Sim- 
mons' Camp — Cooking  Under  Arms — Four  Dead  Mules 
—"Cut-Eye"  Out  of  Temper— The  Ax  on  the  Ledge- 
Back  at  the  Forks — The  First  Dwelling  in  Downieville — 
('iiristmas — The  Stars  and  Stripes  in  the  Sierras — Mag- 
jaificent  Scenery.  57 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Life  in  the  Cabin — The  Bill  of  Fare — A  Prospecting  Fever — 
The  Dangers  of  Traveling — Arrival  of  Mrs.  James  Gallo- 
way— A  Poor  Gin  Mill — -Jack  Smith  and  His  Jokes — Up 
a  Tree  After  Gold — Expensive  Rations — William  Slater 
— ^A  Rush  of  Miners — Taking  up  Claims — The  Necessity 
for  Laws.  69 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Adopting  a  Code — Remarkable  Observations — The  Oh-be-joy  ■ 
f  ul — Changing  a  Name — A  Bit  of  Early  History — Samuel 
Langton — A  Bag  of  Gold — Etiquette  in  the  Barroom — 
Corn  Meal  Fixings — Reading  the  First  Newspaper — 
Meeting  Jim  Crow — Phantom  Treasures.  80 

■     CHAPTER  IX. 

An  Unfortunate  Family — A  Company  of  Sailors — After  "Old 
Downie" — Single  Men  and  Married  Men — William  Slater's 
Exit — A  Note  Due  Over  Forty  Years — Law  ^.nd  Lawyers 


CONTENTS 


401 


— "Uncle  Jimmie" — A  Discourse  About   Drinkin<:jf — My 
Claim  Wa>3  Gone — The  Eighth  Couimaudiuent.  93 

CHAPTER  X. 

A  Spree  For  a  Tip-  Our  Social  Conditions— The  Glorious 
Fourth— A  Dinner  at  Galloway's — A  Fight  for  Blood — 
A  Speedy  Trial — Thirty-nine  Lashes — Big  Logan — A 
Singular  Suicide — Prospecting  With  Kanakas — A  Rough 
Journey — Verdant  Pastures.  105 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Another  Winter  in  the  Mountains— Captain  Thomas  R.  Stod- 
dard—Two  Well-known  Millionairs — Fifteen-Hundred 
Dollars  a  Day — Gold  on  the  Wagon  Tires — Sleeping  on 
a  Fortune — Fluming  a  River — Poorman's  Creek — Back 
to  Downieville— Ten  Bits  to  the  Pan— Rantedodler  Bar 

— Sunday  Reminiscences.  119 

» 

CHAPTER  XII. 

A  Severe  Winter — Alexander  McDonald — Close  to  a  Fortune 
— A  Lawsuit — Organizing  a  Mining  District — Sluicing 
and  Tunneling— The  Summer  of  '58 — Reports  From  the 
Eraser — A  Wind-up — Now  and  Then — Quoting  a  Forty- 
niner.  133 

YUEA  SKKTCHKS. 


LYNCHING  A  BEAUTY, 
THE  BLOODY  CODE, 
RIVALRY  AND  DEATH, 
A  FORTY-NINER'S  YARNS, 
FROM  OBSCURITY  TO  FAME, 
A  SLAP  JACK  FIEND, 
YUBA  POETS  AND  POETRY. 


145 
154 
166 
172 
180 
187 
190 


402 


CONTENTS 


BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Arrival  at  Victoria — Sharp  Practice — Indians  Bring  the  First 
Gold — The  Hudson  Bay  Company — An  Energetic  Gover- 
nor— A  Route  to  the  Mines — Joining  an  Expedition — 
Natives  Surprised — The  Dame  and  the  Bullets — Adven- 
tures on  a  Stream — Lilooet  Lake — A  Favorable  Report — 
An  Attempt  That  Failed. 

CHAPTER  II. 

Queen  Charlotte  Island — Gold  Harbor — Scotch  Guy — The 
Majesty  of  Nature — Captain  Gold — Potlatch — Political 
Campaigns — Totems — Architecture  and  Art — An  Inter- 
esting People — Vanity  of  Savagedom — Curious  CuStoms 
— The  Death  Dance — Mvth  and  Legend. 

CHAPTER  III. 


11)9 


210 


Fort  Simpson — On  the  River  Skeena — "Pioneer  H.  B.  C." — 
A  Tempting  Offer — Locatin  A  Pass — What  A  Gold  Band 
Did— Red  Paint — Bon  Jour — Frank's  Curly  Hair — Chief 
Sal-tow-tow — White  Men  in  the  Wilderness — Days  of 
Privation — A  Poor  Craft — Head  Factor,  Peter  Ogdeu — 
A  California  Monte  Bank  in  Victoria.  222 

CHAPTER   IV. 

Surveying  the  Inlets — Looking  for  a  Wagon  Road  to  the 
Eraser — Jarvis  Inlet — An  Awful  Ravine — Desolation 
Sound — All  by  Myself — The  Bears  Came  Rushing  Down 
— The  Kle-na-Klene  River — Bella  Coola — Dean  Canal — 
A  Land  Boom — False  Rejiorts — Mr.  Tovalloit  Prevari- 
cates— Spearing  Salmon — Indians  From  Fort  Eraser — 
After  Gold  on  the  Naas.  235 

CHAPTER  V. 

My  Partners — Visiting  Friends — The  Village  of  Tsawatti — 
Villainous  Indians — Anxious  Moments — Friends  in  Need 
Bute  Inlet — On  the  Homathco — Auxiliary  Rivers — Won- 


CONTEfJTS 


403 


derful  Scenery — Glaciers  Ahead — A  Sick  Indian — Great 
Hardships-  Tlie  Tequahan  and  the  Moniria-  Poor  Luck 
— What  a  Newspaiiei   Said.  248 

CHAPTER   VI. 

Unscrupulous  Speculators — The  Pre-emption  Law — The  Peo- 
ple of  Westminster — Two  Explorers — False  Reports — 
A  Rowdy  Audience — Cariboo  Mining — Trying  to  Pump 
Gold — The  Money  Ran  Out — Waddington's  Enterprise 
— A  Camp  at  Bute  Inlet — Treacherous  Indians — ANiglit 
Of  Horrors— The  Avenger— The  Killing  of  a  Dear  Friend.  2G8 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Gold  Export  Tax — Captain  Evans  and  His  Son — In  the 
Editor's  Room — The  Russo-Americau  Telegraph — Two 
Different  Routes— How  To  Go  To  Work— Once  More 
at  Dean  Canal — Some  Beautiful  Land — Predicting  A. 
Bright  Future— ^on.  John  Robsou— The  Famous  Granite 
Creek — Lumps  of  Gold — Advice  to  Disheartened  Miners 
— Comparing  Past  and  Present.  27;! 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Indians — The  Value  of  Natives — Medicine  Men  and  Supersti- 
tion— An  Incident  at  Yuclatan  Village — Heart  Disease 
and  no  Bullet— Memoir  From  the  Naas  River — Singular 
Customs— The  Price  of  Flour— The  White  Man  and  the 
Red  Man — How  They  Died— Scarlet  Fever — Indian  Me- 
chanics— A  Promising  Country.  288 


PANAMA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Taking  A  Rest — A  New  Friend— Queer  Conversation— How 
Van  Sickles  Dug  Gold— My  Greatest  Chance- Panama 
the  Place— Departure— A  Qurious  Old  City— Difficult 
Mountain  Trails — Down  With  Fever— An  Indian  Grave- 
yard-Digging For  Gold— Pottery  Qalore— A  Curious 
Whistle — My  Collection  Spoiled— Moving  to  Other  Parts. 


803 


404 


CONTKNTS 


CHAPTER  II. 

The  Chirifjue — Auotber  Graveyard — ^lore  Pottery — David 
City  -The  Slmber  Brothers — A  Native  Ho^' — Singular 
Tombs — Above  theCh)udK — Abaudoninfj;  (irave  Dij^oiucr 
— Lookinj''  For  Copjjer — A  Perfect  Hoodoo — Farewell 
Pauaina — Bric-a-brac. 


914 


!l    !lfl 


A  TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Off  for  Alaska — Review  of  the  History  of  the  Country — 
Russian,  American  and  English  Influences — The  Tolstois 
and  the  Astors — A  Wonderful  Region — First  Impression 
of  Scenery — Quoting  Kate  Field — Moiuitains  and  Gla- 
ciers— Lieutenant  Schwatska's  Surveys — A  Phantom 
City.  "  82!) 

CHAPTER  II. 

Mining  Matters — On  the  Stikine  River — San  Francisco  Spec- 
ulators in  the  Field — Large    Mining    Machinery — Fish  Oil 
and    Gold    Dust — The    Yukon    Diggings — Comparison 
Between  Past  and  Present — Interesting  Indians — Artistic 
Carvings — Innocentius  Veuiamiuofif — The  End.  340 


TPIK  NATIVE  SONS. 


CHIPS  OF  THE  OLD  BLOCK. 

The  Author's  Address — Pioneers  and  Native  Sons — Two 
National  Holidays — An  Organization  Established — A 
Moth-eaten  Bear — General  Winn's  Efforts — A  Young 
President — Telling  Speeches — A  Birthday  Party — Grand 
Secretary  and  Free  Mason — A  Relic  Saved — Men  of 
Action. 


355 


CONTKN'rS 


405 


SOMK  OF  MY  OLD  P^RIEXDS. 


D.  T.  (X)LE. 

EX-GO VEENOR  GEORGE  C.  PERKINS. 

JAMES  W.  ORNDORFF. 

LIEUT.  GOVERNOR  DUDNEY. 

ROBERT  DUNSMUIR. 

EX-GOVERNOR  IRWIN. 


;}8() 

383 
38G 
389 
392 


395 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


FRONTISPIECE 

I.MMIGRANT  TRAIN  NEARING  THE  SACRAMENTO  18 

SACRAMENTO  IN  FORTY-NINE  20 

C!APTAIN  JOHN  A.  SUTTER,  22 

SUTTER'S  :\IILL,  COLOMA,  CAL.,  28 
CARMEL  MISSION.  NEAR  MONTEREi^  CAL.,            '          31 

LOOKING  FOR  THE  COLOR,  88 

WORKING  THE  ROCKER.  44 

VIEW  IN  SACRAMENTO  IN  THE  FIFTIES,  53 

A  LONELY  MOUNTAINEER,  GO 

DONNER  LAKE,  SUMMIT  OF  THE  SIERRAS,  G7 

VIEW  OF  LAKE  TAHOE,  73 

THE  OLD  CABIN  AT  DOWNIEVILLE,  86 

OFF  TO  THE  DIGGINGS,  9^ 

AFTER  OLD  DOWNIE,  Qfi 

VARIOUS  METHODS  OF  MINING,  102 

VIEW  OF  THE  SIERRA  BUTTES,  108 

CATCHING  BREAKFAST  ON  THE  YUBA,  114 

THE  DESERTED  CABINS,  121 


400 


CONTENTS 


VIEW  OF  GOLD  LAKE,  129 

GROUND  SLUICING  IN  THE  EARLY  DAYS,  185 

DOWNII]VILLE  IN  THE  EARLY  FIFTIES,  189 

DOWNIEVILLE  OF  TO-DAY,                                         .  144 
HANGING  OF  JU ANITA,                                                   .          ir,l 

COMING  OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS,  15(5 

DUEL  BETWEEN  LIPPENCOTT  AND  TEVIS,  102 

PHILO  A.  HAVEN,  100 

DEATH  OF  MOFFATT,  177 

LOUISE  H.  MACK  AY,  183 

VICTORIA  BEFORE  THE  BOOM,  19S 

SIR  JAMES  DOU(iLASS,  K.  C.  B.,  205 

HYDAH  INDIAN  CHIEFS,  215 

MASSET,  QUEEN  CHARLOTTE  ISLAND,  229 

A  GROUP  OF  NAAS  INDIANS,                                     .  239 

NANAIMO,  255 

BARNARD  GLACIERS,  ON  THE  SKEENA  RIVER,  209 

KOSKEEMO  INDIAN  CHIEFS,  281 

FORT  SIMPSON,  291 

RELIC  FROM  AN  INC  A  GRAVE,                .  312 

DANCING  THE  FANDANGO,  321 

AMONGST  THE  ICEBERGS  IN  GLACIER  BAY,  328 

WRANGEL  ISLAND,  ALASKA,  341 
GLACIER  BAY,  SHOWING  SECTION  OF  MUIR  GLACIER,    349 

WILLIAM  R.  HEARST,  354 

HON.  STEPHEN  M.  AVHITE,  357 

HON.  GEORGE  C.  PARDEE,                   .  357 

HON.  LEVI  R.  ELLERT,  357 

HON.  THOMAS  FLINT  JR.,  357 

ROBERT  WIELAND,                                  ■'      .  357 


♦ 


CONTENTS 

HON.  R.  F.  DEL  VALLE, 
FREDERICK  C.  CLIFT, 
HENRY  LUNSTEDT, 
JOHN  A.  STEINBACH, 
HON.  C.  H.  GAROUTTE, 
R.  M.  FITZGERALD, 
DR.  C.  W.  DECKER, 
COL.  C.  F.  CROCKER, 
JOHN  T.  GREANEY, 
HON.  FRANK  L.  COPIES, 
H.  CLAY  CHIPMAN, 
FRANK  D.  RYAN, 
M.  A.  DORN, 
FRANK  J.  HIGGINS, 
JOHN  H.  GRADY, 
JO  D.  SPROUL, 
D.  T.  COLE. 

EX-GOVERNOR  GEORGE  C.  PERKINS. 
JAMES  AV.  ORNDORFF. 
LIEUT.  GOVERNOR  DUDNEY. 
ROBERT  DUNSMUIR. 
EX-GOVERNOR  IRWIN. 


407 

a57 

357 

8G3 

363 

303 

363 

363 

363 

363 

369 

869 

869 

369 

369 

369 

369 

381 

384 

387 

390 

393 

396 


